catmanluge

I keep having problems with my hood popping open. I have tryed to adjust the front latch several times but when hitting bumps or taking hard turns it won't stay shut. Are there any tried and true methods for adjusting the hood latch. Thanks

2000 Boxster :renntech:

:(

What a blast; too bad it lasted only half a mile...

Was fun to feel the tiptronic spining wheels while changing to 2nd and 3rd. Scary fast in all rpm's.

Too bad that I found the hard way that 2 inches lower for the engine it's a lot. I hit a water storm drain while changing to 3rd and blew the oil pump cover, dented the new headers; O2 sensors; chiped the oil pan. Back to the mechanic to fix those and fabricate an aluminium skid plate to be attached to the frame.

Engine height

I lowered my engine 1.5 inches in the front and 3/4 of an inch for the trans mounts. Cut a small grove in the under side of the firewall just above the intake manifold and file the intake manifold ridge 1/4 of an inch. No problems..

Have fun!!

Thanks a bunch!

P1275 Signal Delay Time for Oxygen Sensor Aging, Bank 1 – Above/Below Limit

P1276 Signal Delay Time for Oxygen Sensor Aging, Bank 2 – Above/Below Limit

Possible causes:

– Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC

– Leak ahead of TWC or in the area of the oxygen sensor after TWC

– Wiring (oxygen sensors exchanged)

From my experience if the car has more than 60,000 miles these sensors are likely shot.

These would be each sensor per engine BEFORE the cats.

It takes about 600 miles but keeps coming back

on a 2000 Boxster 3.4

O2 sensors

Bank 2 P1276 code 22 and Bank 1 1275 code 16

Are these the front or rear O2 sensors

Thanks :renntech:

I have a 3.4 non egas Throttle body and ram tube if you need one?

Tony,

Some mechanics have been succesful in locating "mysterious" engine noises by the use of a stethoscope.

Ask your mechanic.

Good luck,

Gerry

Hi guys, new to this forum and I'm after a little help regarding a tappy kind of rattling noise coming from the engine.

I have a Carrera 3.2 Targa(65000 miles) and have owned it for nearly a year now. Apart from a few starting problems in the beginning due to a dodgy DME relay and engine earth strap it has run well and started fine. Within a the first 6 weeks of owning it I had the oil lines changed along with a general overall service.

Over the last few months I have noticed that the engine, when warm, has seemed noisier. This is most noticeable when driving in an indoor carpark or next to walls as the noise bounces straight back at me. The noise characteristics are:

- hardly noticeable when warn if at all

- more frequent as revs rise

- it is a sort of tapping/rattling noise

This is the first Porsche I have owned so I don't really have anything to gauge the noise against, only what it sounds like when it is warm which is fine. I recently put the car into a reputable independent Porsche garage to get the tappets adjusted. Upon picking the car up I was told that the tappets did need adjusting so figured that was the noise that I had heard. It was started and it sounded fine but in hindsight what I should have done is take it down the road for a few miles to get it nice and warm and then listen to it. After driving it for the last six weeks I am sure that the same noise is still there and it is not my mind playing tricks on me, paranoia and all that!!

One of my biggest concerns now is that I have read about the valve guides wearing at around 60K on the 3.2 motors so if anyone could shed some light on that that would be great. Would worn valve guides get noisier when warm?

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

Tony

Does it have a light weight flywheel? If so the rattling is normal

today: changes the injector rails to boxster - no return for the fuel tank - did keep the 996 injectors; compressor from the boxster(made in japan?!) - better shape; changed belt; harness from the boxster engine; connectors from the 996 harness for the variocam plus solenoids and the cam sensors.

Be careful mounting your injector rails. I used the 2.7 rails on a 3.6 and had the injectors to deep into the manifold, it cost a big power loss.. .020 of an inch difference made a big change in the power band. You really can't notice until you are running full throttle in higher gears..

7500 shipped; I should get 2000 back when they get my working 2.7 .

30000 miles. 7500-2000 core.

$5500 out the door?

what did it cost to ship it?

m

As far as the number of miles you can also check the number of hours the motor has.

I used a 3.5 inch x 12 inch exhaust tube that I placed my MAF sensor mounting section that was cut out from my original Boxster manifold, I also cut out a section of the metal tube so that it is open below the mounting section then rivided the mounting plate at four points on to the larger tube with some heat applied to slightly flaten the mounting section. A little silicone between the two surfaces helped with a tight seal. It is located in about the same location as it was when stock. I made a cold air box out of aluminium which has a K & N filter. The first filter I had was to restrictive so I had too go to a larger filter. At the end of the steel pipe is 3.5 inch Silcone Flex Tubing extending to the Throttle body from the cold air box.

:renntech:

What have other's done? Does anyone make a MAF housing that would work? I believe that the 996 MAF housing has an inside diameter of about 85mm.

Thanks for any suggestions.

George

Hi George,

I also have a 3.4L converted Boxster that continues to get MAF related CEL's.

I have purchased the airbox lid from a 996 3.4L and have had the MAF Housing professionally removed (i.e. Cut Out) to install in the Boxster.

On my conversion, the builder installed a resistor inline with the MAF to block the signal and ran the conversion with the stock Boxster MAF housing.

The plan is to remove the resistor, install the 3.5" MAF Housing and a K&N Kone filter intake.

Due to my work schedule I won't be able to complete this for the next couple of weeks but will update once completed.

Cheers,

Michael

Hi Everyone,

I'm a newbie here, I've been a Porsche Owner for Years and Years, but have just finally decided to do some work myself, so I found this great resource. Outstanding Forum Everyone.

I have a 2001 996 Cab.

Our clutch has just bitten the dust and I bought a new Lightweight Aasco Flywheel, and the Sport Clutch Cover and Uprated Sprung Clutch Disc.

Now, I have a question on putting it together.

I've installed a new RMS, and by the way, anywone wanting to do this job, it is very, very easy. No special tools needed, no worries.

But, here's MY problem. After installing the Lightweight Flywheel, I was getting to installing the Springed Disc and the Sport Cover, and I am spumped on WHICH DIRECTION they need to be installed.

Neither side of the disc is marked with an arrow or directions as to which side should be close to the flywheel. It seems that it can be installed in either direction, which has me stumped.

Can anyone shed some light on my predicament? Which side faces the flywheel? The side that sticks out from the disc? or the flush side. There are two distinct sides.

I have always installed them one way, but, the supplier seems to be telling me to install it the other, and that has me baffled.

HEEELLLLLLLLPPPPPPP!!! Please.

Thanks so Much,

Brian

My spring side of the disk faces toward the flywheel if that helps but I had to have my flywheel machined by Spec Clutch to make it fit!

sweet :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

YOU WILL LOVE ALL THE EXTRA POWER! :renntech:

I removed them on my 2000 996 which had lots of rust and corrosion. The bolts actually came out pretty easy, although I have read of eople breaking them off. then you might have to use an extractor, possibly coil them. the bigger problem amy be the bolts that connect the header to the cats. I did not remove these as they were completly corroded, and looked like they were studs welded to the cats, I did not want to take the chance of breaking them. there are lots of member who have put on headers, they may have more advice for you. Good Luck!

Heat is also a good technique...

would you heat the bolts with a torch?

Yes I have biut it was a small propane torch!

I removed them on my 2000 996 which had lots of rust and corrosion. The bolts actually came out pretty easy, although I have read of eople breaking them off. then you might have to use an extractor, possibly coil them. the bigger problem amy be the bolts that connect the header to the cats. I did not remove these as they were completly corroded, and looked like they were studs welded to the cats, I did not want to take the chance of breaking them. there are lots of member who have put on headers, they may have more advice for you. Good Luck!

Heat is also a good technique...

In this case the O2 sensors are telling you where the problem is - they are not the cause of this problem.

P0102 is all MAF.

Either the MAF is not connected, or shorted out.

The DME is not getting any data from the MAF - so either there is a wiring problem or the MAF is bad.

Loren

Thanks New MAF arrived today!

Bill

Similar but not usually the same.

What is you problem/fault code(s)?

P0102 which is the MAF sensor but was thinking that maybe the O2 sensors maybe the root cause.

Thanks

Using Durametric system

Should the O2 readings be the same for bank 1 and bank 2 front and bank 1 and bank 2 rear? :renntech:

With a Durametric

Should the readings be the same for bank 1 and bank 2 front and bank 1 and bank 2 rear for the 02 sensors? :renntech:

Anyone know the interior diam on the exhaust headers for a 3.2 S motor vs. the 2.7 base motor? OR if there is any?

SAME!

I have an '01 Boxster I bought about 4 weeks ago. After buying and getting my durametric fired up, I noticed the Range 1 and Range 2 ignitions counters. My car has 1750 hours on it, with around 13000 R1 ignitions (last one over 100 hours ago, before I got it) and it has 2 ignitions in the R2 range, that were counted only 100 hours after the car was new.

My question is, how many is too many? If I understand it right, The R1's are the number of ignitions where the rev-limiter fired at red-line. The R2's are ignitions are over red-line. The R2's are obviously bad, but what about R1's? If the rev limited did it's job, is that number anything to be worried about?

And out of curiosity, how does one get over red line in the first place, when the engine has a rev limiter to prevent it? Bad downshift?

Thanks!

--Bill

I am not sure how accurate the R 1's are as my car has some 57,000 R-1's and no r-2 and I always shift closer to 7,000 rather than 7,200. The revlimiter may be set wrong

When upgrading to a gt3 control arm to increase camber,do you also need to replace the trailing arms?My car is a 99 996 that is primarily a DE car and My goal is to improve the handling and tire ware.

In order to get the proper toe alignment you will need an adjustable track arm to replace the one that has the cam adjustment. Porsche calls tham track rods.. The trailing arm is the one from just behind the seat to the hub carrier in my way of thinking.....

Hello,

I've just diagnosed a creaky lower control arm on my GT3 Mk2. The vertically aligned bush at the end had a split. Has anyone got any instructions, gotchas, torque settings etc that could make this job easier?

I've got the replacement arm and all nuts and bolts due in the next few days so I'd like to be prepared beforehand.

Many thanks,

Damian

You probably only need to change the inner section of the split arm. Not sure of the toque for the split sections but check a chart for that size bolt. But before you tighten the bolt that connects the arm to the car it should be siting in a weighted position. Hope this helps...

2000 Boxster Under Center Consol there is an unused electric plug that has a Red and Green - Green and Black - Yellow and Black and Brown wires. Can this plug be used as an electric supply?

Thanks :renntech:

Todd

Took off the intake manifold today the resonance flap is open when off so in fact that is working correctly. I double checked all the vac lines and they are all hooked up as they should be for the Boxster.

Maybe its all connected with the throttle body not fully opening? My 3.4 came out of a 1999 so I purchased a used E Gas intake manifold and throttle body. Is there any possible adjustment under that black cover of the Throttle Body.

Do you keep reprogram records?

catman

Throttle actual value should be >99% with a pedal value of 100%.

Are you certain your dme was reprogrammed correctly when the swap was done?

-Todd

I am tring to get test performed with Durametric software.

Using a durametric looking at pedel values VS Throttle Values with the pedal value at 99.99 from 3556 RPM through 6757 PRM range the actual values are 47.6, 31.9 33.4, 36.2, 39.5, and 41.2.

It sounds like I am not getting full throttle. Is this correct is there a way to adjust the actual values vs the pedel values?

I am tring to get test performed with Durametric software.

Using a durametric looking at pedel values VS Throttle Values with the pedal value at 99.99 from 3556 RPM through 6757 PRM range the actual values are 47.6, 31.9 33.4, 36.2, 39.5, and 41.2.

It sounds like I am not getting full throttle. Is this correct is there a way to adjust the actual values vs the pedel values?

Yoy might want to replace you inner seals if you cooked the outers seals the inners are most likely dead.

They are knock back seals otherwise you will have the same problem again!

2002 Boxster S, 37,000 miles, moderate track use. I am a fairly good mechanic, in general.

My Boxster pretty well toasted its brake rotors the last 5 days at Watkins Glen, and needed a thorough going-over. Pulling the pads, I noted the outer dust cover (deal) on one of the calipers was burned, and came out in my hand. Pretty well like burned toast. So along with rotors, screws, Pagid Oranges, etc. I ordered new dust covers (outer seals).

My question is whether there is a trick to putting these in. I expect getting them out involves pressing in the pistons, and prying them out with a screwdriver or such. Re-inserting new ones may be more challenging. Any known tricks? Pistons depressed into cylinders or projecting out slightly? Special or helpful tools? Any help would be appreciated.

Eric

I rebuilt all four of my calipers in February on my '04 986S, replacing all the bore seals, pistons, boots and bleeder screws.

If all you are replacing is the dust boot, you don't really need to remove the pistons. Just press the pistons back in and pull the boots off. They have a lip that fits into a recessed area on the caliper, and the top of them fits into a recessed area on the top outer edge of the piston, but the boot is reinforced at those parts and you should be able to pull them right off. Below you will note I caution on the use of a tool with the pistons, but if all you are doing is the dust boots, you can use a dental type tool to help get them out.

If you want to go the full monty, here is way more detail than you asked for :D ....but be sure you read my caveat on doing the full monty below.

You have to disconnect the fluid line on the back of the caliper to inject air to make the piston come out. As such, you should just remove the whole caliper.

With the caliper off, and the brake line dripping into a bucket, use plenty of brake parts cleaner to wash everything down and getting as much fluid out. You don't have to do this, but if you don't, when you apply the air pressure, you are going to splatter nasty brake fluid all over the place. You can remove the bleeder screws too, and spray into those and into the back until you feel like most of the fluid is out.

Then you need some blocks of wood; best to have some of different thicknesses. Place blocks between the pistons so when you apply the air pressure, these things hit something other than each other. And be careful, they come out with significant force.

Use the different thicknesses to get the pistons most of the way out. Then you can pull them out with your hand if you got them far enough out. Don't use any metal tool on the pistons. You can scratch and ruin them.

It is a bit like a puzzle sometimes to figure out what thickness of blocks to use to get all four pistons out far enough at the same time to pull them out, but it will make sense once you start.

Inspect the pistons. If you boots are shot, and you've had a few track days where you were down to nothing on your pads, you will probably find a little bit of rash on the sides near the top. If this is all you have, just at the top, they can be reused, IMO. If they are scored on the sides in a place that would make the scratch go past the seal, then resuing them runs the risk of leaking past the bore seal.

Look into the cylinder and half way or so down, you will see the bore seals - one per cylinder. You get these out with a dental type tool. These are inexpensive and readily available. I've seen them at sears as well as lowes. If you pull the seal out, you should replace it, because you do not want to run the risk of cutting or tearing it at all.

Go crazy with the brake parts cleaner. Clean, clean, clean, clean - but only use brake parts cleaner, or brake fluid itself. NOTHING else in the cylinder but one of these two chemicals.

When you reinstall the bore seals, you lube them with a silicon grease (came with my piston rebuild kits from Brembo - have more if you want the name) like you lube the ring on an oil filter. Then you bend them (because the rings' inside diameter is slightly larger then the diameter of the cylinder, and fit them into the little recessed area in the cylinder.

The pistons go in next. No grease on them.

And then put a tiny bit of the grease on the lip of the dust boots to make them fit easier on the lip of the caliper...try not to get any grease on the outside of the boot though, because it will gum up with dust.

Once all back together, flush your brake fluid, and then bleed them a couple of times too.

I've found my dust boots don't last long. It depends on what tracks I am visiting, but I am watching them more carefully now, and replacing them at least, sometimes twice a year. It seems to extend the life of the pistons because the dust doesn't have as much chance to damage the top edge.

I trust you know the pistons are different diameters.

Full Monty caveat -

Unless you have experience some serious uneven wear,(unattributable to difference in grip in your tires) leaks, or have a jillion track miles, you probably don't need to rebuild the calipers completely. I've done it once in 15K track miles, and the bore seals were only marginally worn.

BTW, someday try pagid yellow up front and black in the back. I get WAY more life out of the yellows, and the blacks, being a little more aggresive, is like a poor man's brake bias. They work nice with yellows upfront. Also, I found better cooling using the GT3 RS brake spoilers.