catmanluge

Having trouble with lack of power I was hoping someone on this board could analyize this excel spread sheet?

Box_test_3.Doc

I had good results with Spec. The Boxster clutch is the only one that will fit in the Boxster transmission bellhousing. I would go with the stage 3 if you plan to track the car other wise stage 2 is fine. If you go to a light weight flywheel be careful as some require machining if you use a sprung disk. As the stock type bolts will not fit..

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the reply and the website link.

I am really considering the stage 3 clutch as it is the same price as the stage 2. Why would the stage 2+ be more expensive?

(i see that you recommend the 2+)

(I read what the Spec Clutch website says but all I could interpret were that they were all good!)

Should I buy the 996 clutch or the Boxster's? I guess the Boxster's as the flywheel is on the engine?

Should I fit a light weight flywheel?

Does my Boxster have a Dual mass flywheel?

Regards

Pieter

Hi Michael,

I contacted Spec cluth via e-mail and had no reply. Is this usual or do I just have to keep on e-mailing them?

Regards

Pieter

Sorry to report, but no revelations here.

Just got the car back this morning. The groaning noises are gone. My indy (www.cantrellmotorsport.com) simply greased up parts here and there. He tells me everything looks healthy.

While there, I had the engine mounts replaced. The original ones were fine (i.e. no leaks), but figured I'd just do it before they pop since I have about 57K miles on my 2002 now.

This car gets better and better, though sometimes I do wish for that V8 mid-engine F-car. :)

I you have the suspension weighted loosen the control arm bolt then retighten. They are not susposed to be tighten wile unweighted...

Todd

Not sure if I understand. There is only one line connected to the TB from the AOS then it is connected to a value of some type under the drivers front side of the engine. I wil have to look at it again as its been a while since I studied the actual path of that line. Its about 5/8 inch in size...

Bill

There is no issue with using the boxster rails as long as you mounted them so they seal properly. They use the same injectors and same FPR.

Get rid of your error codes first and then see if you still have a problem. Sounds to me like you don't have the tank vent system hooked up correctly.

Lots of people leave it attached to the old 986 intake manifold and then wonder what to hook to the side port on the throttle body.

-Todd

Sounds like a MAF to me.

Disconnect electrical connection and take it for a run - If all is well this will prove it is the MAF.

(Car goes in to limited opperation strategy with MAF disconnected and approximates the fuel air ratio which is better than a faulty MAF signal)

I tried your suggestion and the performance was slightly worse..

Here are the CEL codes and Fault codes produce without the MAF connected.

P0455 Fault 94 Tank vent System Error Major Leak

P0102 MAF Fault code 115 Below limits (Not Connected)

P0112 Fault code 124 Intake air temp below limit value

The P0102 and P0112 are due to the MAF being disconnected. However, the P0455 is most likely your problem. Check your vacuum hoses for leaks and do a search of P0455 on here for more troubleshooting info.

I have checked vacuum lines, air Filter, intake, spark plugs, and many other possibilities. There is one thing that I did that may be contributing to this problem as I use the Boxster Fuel Rails with the 996 Injectors but had to make a bracket to hold the injectors in place due to utilizing the 3.4 intake manifold.

Is it possible that the injector rails are senitive to how they are mounted?

Not sure what tests to run with the durametric that may lead to solving this problem....

Sounds like a MAF to me.

Disconnect electrical connection and take it for a run - If all is well this will prove it is the MAF.

(Car goes in to limited opperation strategy with MAF disconnected and approximates the fuel air ratio which is better than a faulty MAF signal)

I tried your suggestion and the performance was slightly worse..

Here are the CEL codes and Fault codes produce without the MAF connected.

P0455 Fault 94 Tank vent System Error Major Leak

P0102 MAF Fault code 115 Below limits (Not Connected)

P0112 Fault code 124 Intake air temp below limit value

The P0102 and P0112 are due to the MAF being disconnected. However, the P0455 is most likely your problem. Check your vacuum hoses for leaks and do a search of P0455 on here for more troubleshooting info.

I have checked vacuum lines, air Filter, intake, spark plugs, and many other possibilities. There is one thing that I did that may be contributing to this problem as I use the Boxster Fuel Rails with the 996 Injectors but had to make a bracket to hold the injectors in place due to utilizing the 3.4 intake manifold.

Is it possible that the injector rails are senitive to how they are mounted?

Additional Information From Durametric not sure what values to run for analysis?

Time Rpm Actual Cam Angles O2 Ahead Ristance O2 ahead

Bank 1 Bank 2 Cat Ahead CAT FRA Bank 2 Throttle Value

12:05:33.1875000 808 0.59 -0.19 0.07 192 0.99 0.71 2.2

12:05:34.4531250 821 0.61 -0.23 0.78 192 0.99 0.1 2.2

12:05:35.5781250 830 0.48 -0.05 0.59 192 0.99 0.75 2.9

12:05:36.6875000 1007 0.36 -0.03 0.84 192 0.99 0.8 17.4

12:05:37.7656250 1145 0.23 0 0 192 0.99 0.02 13.9

12:05:38.8437500 1538 0.42 -0.17 0.85 192 0.99 0.84 6.6

12:05:39.9218750 2122 -0.31 -0.41 0.07 192 0.99 0.03 9.6

12:05:41.0156250 3094 -0.14 -0.34 0.03 192 0.99 0.11 22.9

12:05:42.1093750 4609 0.97 0.67 0.74 192 0.99 0.22 28.8

12:05:43.2343750 4949 2.05 1.19 0.84 192 0.99 0.87 6.8

12:05:44.3125000 3971 1.44 0.53 0.87 192 0.99 0.85 99.7

12:05:45.4218750 5204 1.88 1.42 0.88 192 0.99 0.89 94.7

12:05:46.5000000 3934 1.28 0.73 0.88 192 0.99 0 6.2

12:05:47.5937500 3783 0.41 0.36 0.82 192 0.99 0.85 101.1

12:05:48.7187500 4365 0.67 0.17 0.91 192 0.99 0.91 99.9

12:05:49.8125000 4643 1 0.64 0.9 192 0.99 0.85 6.2

12:05:51.0625000 3282 -0.17 -0.38 0.01 192 0.99 0.07 5.9

12:05:52.2968750 3109 -0.31 -0.53 0 192 0.99 0 5.6

12:05:53.5468750 3058 -0.05 -0.38 0.03 192 0.99 0.11 12.2

12:05:54.8593750 3081 -0.11 -0.34 0.82 192 0.99 0.67 13.1

12:05:56.0625000 3123 -0.3 -0.84 0.03 192 0.99 0.03 23.3

12:05:57.2968750 3229 -0.36 -0.56 0.57 192 0.99 0.17 33.6

12:05:58.5468750 3397 -0.34 -0.53 0.82 192 0.99 0.74 101

12:05:59.8750000 3553 -0.67 -0.38 0.92 192 0.99 0.91 99.9

12:06:01.1250000 3586 -0.44 -0.33 0.88 192 0.99 0.89 6.1

12:06:02.3750000 4560 0.94 0.3 0.88 192 0.99 0.85 7.2

12:06:05 5163 3.2 1.42 0.87 192 0.99 0.9 99.9

12:06:06.1250000 5673 1.27 0.7 0.91 192 0.99 0.92 18.4

12:06:07.2031250 5048 1.67 1.09 0 192 0.99 0 7.1

12:06:08.2968750 4452 0.86 0.33 0 192 0.99 0 6.8

12:06:09.3906250 4100 0.84 0.14 0 192 0.99 0 6.3

12:06:10.4687500 3821 0.28 0.19 0 192 0.99 0 6.4

12:06:11.5781250 3608 -0.58 -0.14 0 192 0.99 0 6

12:06:12.6718750 3412 -0.36 -0.25 0 192 0.99 0 6.2

12:06:13.9531250 3132 -0.47 -0.56 0 192 0.99 0 5.7

12:06:15.2500000 2894 -0.13 -0.48 0 192 0.99 0 5.6

12:06:16.5781250 2682 -0.3 -0.5 0 192 0.99 0 5.2

12:06:17.7968750 2491 -0.09 -0.31 0 192 0.99 0 4.9

Sounds like a MAF to me.

Disconnect electrical connection and take it for a run - If all is well this will prove it is the MAF.

(Car goes in to limited opperation strategy with MAF disconnected and approximates the fuel air ratio which is better than a faulty MAF signal)

I tried your suggestion and the performance was slightly worse..

Here are the CEL codes and Fault codes produce without the MAF connected.

P0455 Fault 94 Tank vent System Error Major Leak

P0102 MAF Fault code 115 Below limits (Not Connected)

P0112 Fault code 124 Intake air temp below limit value

I am experiencing a problem with my 2000 Boxster 3.4 liter. The car under acceleration pulls strong though 1 gear stumbles slightly through 2 gear but starts to really have a noticeable stumble in 3rd gear approaching 5000 RPM and actually sounds like it starving for fuel but then catches and accelerates up to 7000 Rpm.

It a similar feeling to fuel detonation in older cars with bad gas.

I try to attach a photo of my Dynolicious chart where the yellow line can be seen showing where it stumbles…

ME TOO!

The seal on the speedracing site is an old style seal, the new design sits a lot deeper. A special tool and instructions (some precautions to take) are needed for a good result.

I had a seal install tool made at a machine shop for a lot less money... The depth is important for success as the deeper the new seal (987 version) is placed the less flex the crank has.

I added a third radiator and felt is was well worth the effort. On track days the temp would reach the high end of the guage. Now it stays in the normal range even while pushing hard on summer track days.

You need a clutch master cylinder. The seals have worn out.

Paul

Try Bleeding the Clutch. I had this problem and it turneed out to be the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.

I am wondering has anyone purchased items from Vertexauto.com before and your experiences with them ? I am planning to purchase a pair of Carbon Fibre door sill and seems like the price listed is very reasonable.

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/208547%...x#ItemNotes1Div

Vertex out of Florida is Fine but watch out for a company with the same name out of Los Angles they sell rip off parts!

After reading a few articles on a Cayman forum, I was wondering if it is possible to buy an underdrive pulley for a 3.6l 996 or if anyone has fitted one to their car?

Thanks

Why not they share the same pulley!

Bleed the Clutch!

:thumbup:

Perhaps this should get moved to the DIY section?

What do you folks think?

Great Idea!

Does a 987 have a hood release cable under the passenger side inner fender lining? Have a dead battery but the fuse post thing will not allow the hood to open when connected to a separate battery. I can hear a clicking sound but no release...

I realize these posts were awhile ago, but I know there are many of us still dealing with this problem of our MAF sensor

causing rich or lean AFR's when we start adding bolt ons. I have had a major break through and wanted to share

the solution I came upon.

I have a 98 boxster with a 3.4 liter conversion. I have had it over a year this way and have been driving it using very

rich AFR's for most of the time. My AFR's have been reading in the 10's for quite awhile. Even this way the car was making

decent power, about 310 at the crank, but with all of my modifications I should have been closer to 320-330.

ECU Tuning has been a break through, but not how you think. I originally had "powerchip group" reprogram my ecu rom, but after 3 different programs and 3 100 mile round trips to their facility I was still running very rich. I then contacted "Steve", owner of SR Motorsports in Gardena (310-516-1003) for some dyno tuning. He has some amazing experience with tuning import cars and was in the research and development for APEX products for 5 years. I was running very rich for awhile and my Air fuel ratio readings were around 10 under wide open throttle on the dyno. The basic idea we discovered is that the MAF housing diameter for the stock 996 is 3.5 inches. For the Boxster it is 3 inches. When the 3.4 liter motor is drawing in air it is pulling air in "faster" through the smaller boxster 3 inch MAF instead of the stock 996 3.5 inch housing it was oringinally programmed for. This "faster/higher" reading sends a voltage reading to the996 ecu that calls for more fuel and thus richens everything at wide open. The opposite can happen if your MAF housing gets too big.

We wanted to be able to fine tune as needed so Steve recommended the "APEX AFC-SELECT" for german cars.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electroni...5&pageNum=1

Hard to find these days, but they are out there. I also installed an AEM wideband Air fuel ratio gauge to monitor AFR's from within my car. The APEX AFC-Select allows us to control the voltage reading of the MAF at any designated rpm before it gets to the 996 ecu. By doing so the 996 ecu takes the new voltage reading and adjusts the fuel injectors as required. Thus we were able to fine tune my AFR to read a conservative 12 all across the board. From this tuning alone I gained 20-30 lbs of torque and horsepower across the mid rev range from 3500-7000 rpm. I was stunned and amazed at the difference! The whole process of installation and tuning took about 3 hours. Now I have a system that I can fine tune to my unique modifications. I would highly recommend this procedure over any "ecu rom tuning" in a heart beat because everyone's car mods are different. This eliminates wondering if your "reprogrammed chip" needs to be adjusted if you ever ad anymore bolt ons.

Steve's knowledge of the product and ease of use was paramount to making it happen so smoothly..Now granted this is not adjusting timing and other parameters that rom chips do, but for most bolt on mods that deal with faster air flow this is a great solution.

We wanted to start out conservative and tuned the air fuel ratio to hold 12 across the entire rev range at wide open throttle. We will later be raising it to an AFR of 13 which should result in a gain of another 10-15 hp and tq. For this test we will keep it conservative and safe at 12 for a few 100 miles to make sure no check engine lights or problems show up..

My before and after dynojet peak dyno readings at the wheels were as follows:

base: 255hp @ 6300 and 215tq @ 4600 (wheels) X 1.2 = 306 hp and 258 tq at crank

AFR=12 flat :270hp @ 6300 and 235tq @ 4600 (wheels) X 1.2 = 325 hp and 282 tq at crank

compare this with a bone stock 300 hp 2001 996 3.4 dynojet:

251hp and 213tq X 1.2 = 300hp and 256tq at crank

AFR=13 flat

Car has now been dyno'd with close to 325 hp at the crank and weighs only 2750 lbs.

Gtech Pro RR g-force meter performance run:

0-60 foot launch 1.9 sec

0-60 mph in 4.4 sec

0-100 mph in 10.4 sec

0-130 mph in 16.5 sec

0-150 mph in 26 sec

Quarter mile time 12.7 sec @ 110 mph.

Nice job, but it would be alot easier to simply make your MAF have a variable signal. Maf would be calibrated one way in closed loop which would allow the O2 sensors to properly managed the a/f and then would switch to the another calibration in open loop. You then have a fully adjustable MAF signal and full control of your a/f ratio in a matter of seconds.

Interesting -- Sounds like a direction I should look at!

Thanks for you write up!

I ended up having to replace both the slave cylinder under the dash and the helper on top of the transmission. There's also an issue when under extremely hard braking (like at the track) where the line for clutch hydraulics will get pinched, but I don't think that's the issue you're having.

-Michael

I experianced the same issue - keep bleeding the slave cyclinder...

Hi when I open the door inside or out my window drops as it should. When I let go off the handle window closes fully then catches on roof when closing door.

Any ideas?

Mine is 2003 3.2s

Thanks

Paul

IMO, if your window drops normally when pulling on either handle (inside or outside), then it is not likely to be your window regulator.

The problem is a faulty microswitch. One of the three that are in each door. Most likely the one in the door lock assembly.

Look for a post by member RFM. IIRC, he gave the solution for this exact issue a few months ago.

Regards, Maurice.

Its the Micro switch on the Door Lock which is not cheap. Takes about 30 minutes to install. The only problem is that you have to buy the whole lock assembly.

I am trying one more option before I empty my savings account to the dealership(lol) I have a 99 porsche boxster, what I am wondering is there any signs or anyway to check to see if the ecu is faulty. I have replaced the ignition switch and jumped the clutch switch also checked all the fuses. It will power up all the accessories and the silnoid will click but it will not attempt to turn over, thats why i think its something electrical. I am no auto guru just joe the plumber I need some help from the wealth of knowledge from the porsche gods....

Have you tested the starter motor itself?

I don't get this. A heel and toe works just fine -- first press the brake with the left side of the foot then roll right side of foot onto throttle. According to this thread as I read it, the throttle blip should not work. What am I missing?

I'm with tomnash on this one. I've never experienced Little t's problem, and I always apply the brake before blipping the throttle. I think Little t is attempting a "trailing brake" maneuver. Perhaps the throttle cut-off happens when the throttle is applied BEFORE the brake. I've never done it before, so maybe I might try it tomorrow and see if I get the same result on my '05 C2S coupe.

Is the clutch disengaged when you are heel toeing?

The manufactures think we need computers too help us drive oir cars at SPEED! What is Next!

Hello everyone,

I have recently acquired my first Porsche, a 2007 Carrera S (manual gearbox), you can view some of my recent photos on the registry.

There is no doubt the 997-S is a fantastic car to drive, however there is one thing that has been bothering me. It seems the engineers in Stuttgart, have programmed the throttle to cut off when the brake peddle is depressed, making it impossible to left foot brake. Even when all the traction control is turned off, the scenario is the same.

I have discussed this with my local dealer, their response, a warning really, was to notify me that if I track the car, I will likely void my warranty.

Speaking of voiding my warranty, are there any known software modifications, that would allow me to left foot brake?

Thank you in advance for your time...

Little 't'

If you apply the brakes while the throttle is depressed, you will be able to brake as when doing heel and toe. If you try to brake first and then give throttle, you'll find the engine cutting out regardless of wether or not PSM is on or off. It's annoying but unavoidable. The only way for you to brake while giving gas is to be on the gas first and then brake.