catmanluge

Ok lost it on a draw bridge...tried to shift on the metal grading when it was 15 degrees did a 360 n slammed the curb ****

ice...to make it short i need a new front bumper for my boxster...I know that most 996 and 986 bumpers are compatable

for a more original look but i was wondering if any1 knows if a 987 bumper will fit a 986...I know how porsche loves

interchangable parts and was wondering if this ideal carried over between the generations....And yes i learned my lesson

my baby is now under her car cover and staying there until it gets much warmer out...Please help Guys

Sincerly

Shiroyu

997's have different headlight shapes so it won't be a bolt on...

As stated, the 996 and 986 flywheels are not interchangeable.

Fidanza also doesn't make a LWFW for the 996, it was a misprint in their old catalog, it was a 993/964 part. The current catalog has been corrected and lists no boxster or 996 applications. I paid $800 including shipping for my Aasco flywheel which I think is reasonable. Just make sure to use a sprung disc with it and not the factory style solid disc made to work with the dual mass unit.

Todd

Kevin

Check out Amazon They have Aasco for less than $800.00 with 3 left in stock.

Catman

i'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 996 flywheel & clutch in a boxster. getting ready to do my clutch and a light weight flywheel. fidanza doesn't make a flywheel for the boxster anymore, but they DO make one for a 996. since they're about half the price of Aasco, i'm wondering if i can put it in my car and replace my clutch with a 996 version. will this work? are the ring gears the same? clutch splines?

Kevin

According to others that have swaped 3.4 Ltr motors into Boxster the 996 flywheel will not fit.

Catman

Your old pads look like the Porsche Performance pads, which should have PN#s 996.351.930.30 and 996.352.930.30.

Your new ones looks like the stock pads that have the round metal thingie, which I guess are for damping vibrations.

The photos are off Pelicanparts.com not my actual pads. The thing is; a year or so ago I was in the market for some new pads and they all look like the old picture even the Pagid Orange I bought for the track and the BHP pads I bought for daily driving.

I’m concerned about them fitting. I was also wondering what the purpose of those round metal thingies serve as they will outside of the calipers.

They will fit!

Hello , could the Admin please delete this post "2.5tip to 3.4 conversionII", i made a mistake i realize now i still have more space to add pics in the original post :)

Thanks

Ali

Ali

Thanks a lot now I understand what you were talking about!

In the middle of the month I hope to start my swap, I intend to keep my 5 speed and was looking for help with clutch and flywheel suggestions. I am not sure if the spline on a 5 speed is the same as a 6 speed. Since the 2.7 - 3.4 are M96 motors I would assume that the flywheels for a 2.7 Boxster and a 3.4 996 are the same maybe only the clutch disk is different? Parts book show different numbers but you can't tell how they are different. Does anyone know the answer to this problem?

Catman

The 'S' is from an 02. What is involved in:

"The only Difference is maybe the pressure plate for a 5 speed vs a 6 speed"

What does that cost?? Sorry for the simple question, but I"m not mechanically inclined. :P

Mike

If the Boxster S engine is from a MY03 or newer Boxster then it has VarioCam Plus and would require a DME change and you may need to use the fuel lines and intake from your old engine (due to changed in the fuel circuit (returnless fuel system)).

Good point

$200+/-

If the Boxster S engine is from a MY03 or newer Boxster then it has VarioCam Plus and would require a DME change and you may need to use the fuel lines and intake from your old engine (due to changed in the fuel circuit (returnless fuel system)).

Good point

I have a 2001 base 986 with manual transmission with a 2.7 liter that has spun a rod bearing and needs a new engine. I have been offered a 3.2 liter "S" engine. Is this simply a plug and play? If not plug and play, what else has to change and is the change difficult or pricey? While it would be nice to do a 3.6 conversion, I very simply don't have the funds for that.

Thanks,

Mike

The only Difference is maybe the pressure plate for a 5 speed vs a 6 speed.

I'd like to reset the ECU so that the car will start learn it's new atmosphere/elevation, etc more quickly. Does disconnecting the battery do this? Also, does disconnecting the battery do anything funny to the car? I know you have to reset the windows but about the remotes for the locks and settings?

Radio Code

Any recommendations?

replace the seal, and drive the car as is until it locks up?

I don't have the extra $10k laying around. I wish Porsche would still pay half. but with me being the second owner, and it out of warranty, I don't see this happening.

Ok You say you have all the service records. Has the rear main seal been replaced before? If so, how many times? Is the current seal the latest version? Concerning the CEL, have the coil packs ever been replaced? Has the MAF ever been replaced? Do you have all of the codes from the PST2? I suggest you get a lot more info before making a decision. If this is the original seal at 68k miles and is just now beginning to leak, then I doubt the crank is way out of whack. The go/nogo tool is not a failsafe determing factor for a bad engine. You could replace the seal with the latest version and not have a problem for the next 68k miles. You cannot always trust the dealer. They are only as good as the tech who is looking at your car.

I scanned a friends car (not a 996) to give him a second opinion on a $2300 dollar estimate to fix emission related problems diagnosed by the tech (car would not pass with a CEL). My cheap scanner diagnosed a code which could be caused by a bad gas cap. New cap and $15 later no CEL.

You should get the codes and fuel trim values and post them here. Dig a little deeper into the problem before the dealer just starts replacing parts.

This is the second seal it's had. the first one was at 46k miles and was done in 2005.. the coil packs have not been replaced IMHO, nor has the MAF.

I think the lastest seal came out after 2005? They have had three or four diffferent seals since the problem stated showing signs of problems

No because the car is still level just 1" lower to the ground. It's the angle of the headlight compared to the road that is most important not the overall height of the light to the road. If you change your lights by a few degrees that will drastically change how much you can see. All else being equal if the car is still level but just 1" lower than you shouldn't have any significant loss in light, or any really at all.

The control box located on the lower control arm that shifts the headlights when braking etc., will not work when the car is lowered without changing the length of the control arm to the sending unit.

Everything looks pretty straightforward except removing the hose clamp. I do not own a set of hose clamp pliers. My philosophy on buying tools is this: I take the labor charge if I were to have the dealer do it and use that as my tool budget. With that in mind. Can anyone who has done this job recommend a set of hose clamp pliers for me.

Thanks.

It took me less than two hours to change my AOS on my 2000. I did use a adjustable clamp on installation of the new bottom hose.

You just have to feel your way around..

Catman

I run a -98 2.5l Boxster that originated in California. I recently got my Porsche mechanic to activate the OBC so I get the outside temperature (quite handy in Sweden this time of the year). Unfortunately he did not know how to get it to show Celsius so it is now showing Fahrenheit. Can anyone help me with the menu choices that need to be done on the Piwis for this?

Best regards

:renntech:

I think the control is connected to the Heat and Air Conditioning Panel. I forgot the input codes maybe someone else on the board can help.

if u got the cash,Michelin PS2's would be the quietest in my opinion. Pirelli P-zero is really sticky & quiet. I had my kumhos for about 20,000 miles , personally think they r too loud-

I would say Kumho give the nbest bang for the buck!

Thanks catmanluge

Are you running stock or lowered suspension ?

J

Actually they are 45 not 40 they are on the rear sorry.

I have PSS9's on all four corners but had the same tires last year will a Conventional Strut but lowered with Eibachs.

Anyone running 9x17 wheels with 255/40 rubber in the front for track days on a narrow body 996 ? and/or do you know it will work

Thanks

Jeremy

I doubt they'll fit. I have the standard 17" wheels with 205/55 tires in the front, and with 15mm spacers, they barely clear when turned full lock in either direction. You might be able to get 225/50's on there, but your best bet is to check with a place like Wheel Enhancement or Tire Rack.

I have 245x40X17 Hoosiers on stock 9 inch wheels on a boxster with 7 mm spacers. There is some rubbing on the inner plastic fender but nothing to worry about.

Hi all,

Great site, full of usefull info.

I've been having problems with my 2000 S which i'm hoping someone may be able to help before i loose all confidence in the Porsche brand.

It has started to smoke lots when i accellerate hard over 5000rpm. It would be as though the oil breather system is getting pressurised and dumping all the excess oil into the intake manifold.

I took it to a local Porsche specialist where i have had work/servicing done previously who replaced the AOS and gave it back to me saying it was fixed.....which i found not to be the case after 1 journey!

They had it back and looked harder a the breather system which led them cleaning a small pressure relief valve (on a pipe from the AOS to the front lhs of the engine) but also i asked them to do compression and cylinder leakage tests which came up ok and then gave me it back saying it was fixed....it wasn't.

The most recent time they have had it, they have taken both oil scavenge pumps out to check to make sure they are working correctly...they say they are and so the next course of action was to take the engine out and dismantly it!!!! Due to this i asked them to recheck the oil breather system to which they did....apparently and then said it doesn't appear to be letting oil inthrough that route.

I collected the car from them totally dissatisfied only to start the car at the garage where the CEL came on. They plugged their PST2 into it and said it was one of the pre cat o2 sensors reset it then i went on my way.

The light has come back on now and i am assuming all the oil going through the exhuast will have broke the sensors. I'm getting a OBD2 reader to make sure, and not taking it back to the garage!

I have just had the throttle body and pipework off to find a fair bit of oil in the pipes. To me this would still indicate the oil breather system and not internal engine problems.

Does anyone have experience with fitting an AOS that was defective? can i take the pipe from the AOS to the intake out plugging the hole in the intake and watching the aos pipe whilst driving?

Any comments would be much appreciated

Thanks

Graeme

It still sounds like the AOS I would try changing the AOS as my best guess. Clean the intake really good before starting plus the exhaust system could still have a lot of excess oil.

Catman

Hi all,

Great site, full of usefull info.

I've been having problems with my 2000 S which i'm hoping someone may be able to help before i loose all confidence in the Porsche brand.

It has started to smoke lots when i accellerate hard over 5000rpm. It would be as though the oil breather system is getting pressurised and dumping all the excess oil into the intake manifold.

I took it to a local Porsche specialist where i have had work/servicing done previously who replaced the AOS and gave it back to me saying it was fixed.....which i found not to be the case after 1 journey!

They had it back and looked harder a the breather system which led them cleaning a small pressure relief valve (on a pipe from the AOS to the front lhs of the engine) but also i asked them to do compression and cylinder leakage tests which came up ok and then gave me it back saying it was fixed....it wasn't.

The most recent time they have had it, they have taken both oil scavenge pumps out to check to make sure they are working correctly...they say they are and so the next course of action was to take the engine out and dismantly it!!!! Due to this i asked them to recheck the oil breather system to which they did....apparently and then said it doesn't appear to be letting oil inthrough that route.

I collected the car from them totally dissatisfied only to start the car at the garage where the CEL came on. They plugged their PST2 into it and said it was one of the pre cat o2 sensors reset it then i went on my way.

The light has come back on now and i am assuming all the oil going through the exhuast will have broke the sensors. I'm getting a OBD2 reader to make sure, and not taking it back to the garage!

I have just had the throttle body and pipework off to find a fair bit of oil in the pipes. To me this would still indicate the oil breather system and not internal engine problems.

Does anyone have experience with fitting an AOS that was defective? can i take the pipe from the AOS to the intake out plugging the hole in the intake and watching the aos pipe whilst driving?

Any comments would be much appreciated

Thanks

Graeme

Yes i do have the photos of lowered mounts, plus more, i just need to get the USB cable to my digicam. i should have it this coming week.

Ali

Thanks

:)

Sorry i didn't add more pics yet. i lost my USB cable to my digi cam, once i find it, or buy another i shall update the pics

thanks

Ali

Ali

A while back you said you would show how you lowered the engine mounts. Do you have any photo's of the mods you made to achieve this?

Thanks

catman

Sorry i didn't add more pics yet. i lost my USB cable to my digi cam, once i find it, or buy another i shall update the pics

thanks

Ali

Ali

A while back you said you would show how you lowered the engine mounts. Do you have any photo's of the mods you made to achieve this?

Thanks

catman

y am i not running 265 instead of 275? i actually want 285 :)

5/16th is veryyy small spacer, barely enough to move the wheel out a little not to hit the shocks

I have a set of Ebach's that I could have sold to you!

I have a 2001 Boxster with the same symptoms as stated in the earlier posts. My vibration starts on acceleration around 3000-3200 in any gear and quickly goes away after the engine is out of this range. The vibration cannot be felt in the shifter or clutch pedal. It is very brief and can be felt through the seat, while accelerating during normal driving. When accelerating hard, the vibration is rarely felt (I suspect because the range passes by quickly). Deceleration is very different with the vibration much more pronounced in the exact same rpm range, and quickly goes away, starting around 3200 and gone under 3000 rpm, with any gear, although seems more pronounced in the lower gears. Some things to add. I have a new front motor mount. Also,the vibration cannot be felt with the vehicle stationary or rolling, with the transmission out of gear, clutch in or out with running the engine in the 3000-3200 rpm range. The vehicle has to be in an acceleration or deceleration (driving) situation in gear with the vibration to occur. I feel if I had a flywheel/clutch imbalance problem the vibration would be felt when the vehicle is stationary and reved to 3000-3200 rpm, it definitely doesn't happen then. I am now suspecting the rear/transmission motor mounts. I'm curious if anyone has replace theirs because of this vibration. Also to add, I haven't heard of anyone with a 996 with this problem, the dual mass flywheel/clutch is the same configuration, my thoughts are the difference of how the engine transmission assemblies are suspended comparing the Boxster and 996, maybe it doesn't occur in the 996. I would appreciate any thoughts to add to this. Thanks.

I have had the same vibration on decelation at 3000 rpm. If you take off the muffler section of the exhaust it goes away. Placed an extra bracket on the muffler and it is still has the same vibration. It is something within the muffler itself on my Boxster...

You may want to check PCA Marts in different regions....