GaryAZ

Hi all,

My current wheels are the porsche 19" turbo twists (19 x 11 - 64 ET) and I have 275/30/19's on the rears. The tires look really narrow and look actually narrower than the rim itself. Anyway, turns out that my rears have been underinflated for quite a while and I inflated them last week. A day later, I noticed two fat bulges on the inside sidewall of the rears. So to make a long story short, I need to swap them out.

I'd like to go with 295/30/19 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position tires.

The question is whether or not I'll have any issues fitting bigger tires on this wheel. I really want to avoid any rubbing or really bad handling.

How wide are your fronts? If you increase the width of the rears and keep the fronts the same, you're going to increase the tendency to understeer. I don't know much about 19" wheels (I have 18s for the street and 17s for the track), but I increased the width of my fronts and kept the rears stock. I did this to try to get rid of understeer. It helped.

I really like Coco mats. www.cocomats.com. If you haven't heard of them it's a really goofy sounding name but the mats are great. My car is also AS with Black interior the mats I purchased 2 years ago still look great and seem indestructible. They are heavy weave and they fit the 996 perfectly. They never slide around at all. Give them a look.

best noticeable performance difference

Impossible to say without knowing how you use your car. You could add the blower if dusting turbos at stoplights is your thing. I drove my car totally stock for a year and started taking it to the track. I added an extra set of wheels and sticky tires and noticed a huge difference in the handling. But the track tires are awful on the street - noisy, bad in the rain, etc. 2 years later I upgraded the suspension to Pss9s. Noticed a huge difference with a more aggressive alignment and more damping. The car looks better lowered - since your have aerokit already, lowering could add to the looks. But the car handles differently ie: tramlines. You may not like this. I'm with the others who suggested attending track events and spend the money on improving your skills. Then you'll be more qualified to understand how mods would help/change your experience.

Thanks for the info. Keep us posted.

The engineer of the 63 series has been helpful thus far & says K&N will not leave anyone hanging. I was about to buy a dry filter & the engineer told me to save my money.

Interesing link. They claim they've dipped the MAF in the filter oil and it still operated normally. They also claim oil doesn't come off an over-oiled filter - even at ridiculously high flow rates. So something doesn't add up here with all the documented issue with the K&N product and CEL/MAF. I was told by a Porsche tech that the MAF is prone to failure in general. What to think? :huh:

....car stalled when slowing down at Dundee (after 1.4 hours driving) and repeatedly at end of trip.

This sounds all too much like what happened when my MAF failed. Car stalled when approaching a stop light. Put the clutch in - dead. Starter motor would turn but engine wouldn't start. After the car cooled off it would start and run just fine until hot again. For me the conclusive test was this: When the engine was hot, unplugged the MAF ie: just undo the connector on the top of the sensor. The car would start and run. So you might try this. If you conclude it's MAF I know some people clean them off. In my case it was replaced and the car runs great.

Is it this one? Connector block just forward of right tail light. The part number on the connector block reads 996.606.156.00

(pardon my dust)

I've had the backing plate rubbing the disc which causes a grinding sound. In my case it occurred at the track when some kind of track debris hit it. They must bend pretty easily. So I bet you've got it solved.

Triathlete that's horrible service from a Porsche dealer.

Eben here's my story: My car was coming out of warranty @28K miles. I took it in to the dealer and had the 30K service done. The adviser called me and said "We need to keep your car another 2 days. Your new motor gets here tomorrow afternoon". huh? RMS leak was deemed irrepairable so I got a new motor under warranty. I didn't even know it was leaking. I looked in the garage and there was one drop on the floor. They didn't charge me for the 30K service, but I paid for a new clutch - parts only. They didn't charge labor on the clutch since they were "in there" already.

I subsequently bought an extended warranty too. Would the extended warranty writer have approved a new motor? Who knows - hope I don't have to find out. FWIW.

Fellas - Thanks! I'll be in touch.

My passenger side muffler has a broken baffle and rattles like mad. I see some used ones on ebay for cheap but they are for a tip car. Is it possible to use a tip muffler on a 6-speed car? Anyone recently upgrade to PSE and have their old mufflers laying around taking up space? ;)

Thanks.

any suggestions?

I didn't change the sways when I added PSS9s. With the car lowered, stiffer dampers and a more aggresssive alignment, the handling/feel is significantly different than stock - but more fun of course! So that's enough change for me for now. You can always changes the sways later. I have no plans to do so at the moment.

Had my 2000 996 coupe at the dealer in Nov. to replace the l.f. hub and wheel bearing. I had cross-threaded one of the lugs while changing to my track wheels so all this repair and an alignment was necessary ($1K). Both sets of my wheels are Porsche OEM.

So yesterday Jan 28 I was alarmed to see one of the lug bolts was missing entirely (not the locking bolt) from the same wheel. I immediately checked the torque on the remaining bolts - they were frozen. The bolt must have disappeared within the last few weeks - washed the car and wheels within the month - I would have noticed. The wheel has not been removed since the visit to the dealer. The car never mishandled in any way. Last week I did hear one loud "groan" while backing and turning - never heard that before.

I'm very troubled by this. I'm going to ask the dealer to replace all the lug bolts and inspect for any other damage. Anything else I ought to request?

Thanks for the further confirmation. This site is terrific.

OK here's the explanation from Wheel Enhancement for those still interested:

265s are indeed the factory spec width for a 2000 C2. The 285 width is for new 996s ie: 03's and 04's

While on the phone they made me a smoking deal for these same wheels and tires brand new so I went with them!

Thanks for the reply Scott. It is a remarkably good deal, so I'm looking closely at this.

1. The tires are factory approved size so I'm not sure what difference a half inch of wheel width would make? Wheel Enhancement does say these wheels are OK on 996.

2. I think I was confused - the rears are both 18 x 10s. Only real concern here is tires that are slightly narrower than spec. (265 vs. 285) Would I see any less understeer? That might be OK with me.

You are correct there are lots of deals out there.

Hello -

I have an opportunity to purchase some Turbo wheels from a 993 owner. I'm wondering if you can help me confirm the fit on my 2000 996 C2. They are:

front: 993 362 134 05 and are 7.5 x 18. The tires on the front wheels are 225/40 ZR 18. The rear wheels have two part numbers on them 993 362 140 01 "A" and 993 362 138 00 "B" and have 9x18 and 10x18. The rear tires are on 265/35 ZR 18

A search revealed this from Loren:

Here are the Porsche approved tires:

Tire Size

Front: 225/40 ZR 18

Rear: 285/30 ZR 18

Approved 18 wheels (w/offsets) are:

- Front: 8J X 18 offset - 50.0/52.0

- Rear: 10J X 18 offset - 65.0

My questions: 1. would 18 x 7.5s fronts be workable? 2. What's with 2 different part numbers on the rears and different sizes? Would you be concerned? He said he got the whole set from Wheel Enhancement. Thank you.