djomlas

ever since i bought the car, that side didnt work.

it never really bothered me, but i would just like to tackle it and get it working again.

i checked the fuse and everything seems fine. what else can i look at, if someone else had that same problem, or any other info or inputs.

thx in advance

hey man, thats a great write up, i will probably give this a shot sometime soon.

i dont mind my headlights now, but i probably will if i get those installed and "see" the difference hehe

i have the same problem....except i have like mad cracks all over the part, on drivers side.

also, i cleaned the drain holes up front as well...and let me tell you, there was no way i hell that ANY water can even get to the holes, and when you get to them from all the leaves and dirt and whatnot, the hole was packed with same stuff.

reminder, dont push those little rubber plugs wher the hole is, took me 4 hrs to get it back in place.

i called sunset, its $55 for the rear foam piece, if you dont want to fix or mess with silicone.

O nice thanks for clarifying that

so then how do you suggest that i test the existing MAF and find out if thats th problem?

i will keep in mind when putting a new one on to do the one minute wait w neg battery lead removed.

UPDATE>

i just ordered a new MAF sensor so i will see if that will fix the problem.

btw, i turned it on today and it was acting up really bad, i would push the gas pedal and right around 3 k or so it would not really like it, it seems like its something stuffed in the intake or something, thats what it feels like, but obviously thats not it lol.

i unplugged the MAF and it was even worse....should that be the case? its sputtering, like theres not enough air coming in

that actually looks pretty nice, maybe you should just paint your wheels the same color as the hardtop, that would look sweet

no installed it as is, didnt oil it anymore than what it was on there...

u would also like to get some codes?

so just pulled these.

all these CEL's came on after i installed the EVOMS intake.

tried cleaning the maf few times, CEL came back on.

what do you guys suggest? just get a new one and see what happens, or is there another way around? or install the stock intake stuff back in.

also, would changing to a different non-oiled intake filter help?

thx in advance

yeah, take it to a shop to torque those, im sure they will charge you jsut a few bux.

i would want to feel safe driving around knowing that they are torqued to specs.

i had the same problem, it was the spring that was making noise. it was veryyyy anoying.

lubed up now and it works and sounds good, i used some wd40

it helped for a while, but code came back.

i dont mind cleaning it at all...would it help if i for instance cleaned it weekly for a few weeks? or would that just cause more problems?

my question is,

from all the talk/discussion about oiled filters and whatnots, would changing the k&n cone filter and putting a paper cone filter get rid of the codes (i will clean the MAF again)?

would the be any noticeable sound difference?

also, since the cone filter is pretty much visible trough the side intake, would it cause problems with water and regular washing?

any info on this would be greatly appreciated

when i cleaned my MAF it was fine, but after 230 miles it came back on, both 1123 and 1125.

maf was cleaned about 4-5 times thus far.

does anyone have any writeup r procedure to check for vacum hose leak or O2 sensors?

id like to take a look at those at this point

Thanks for all the advise. I found a write up on the net that mentioned the use of a paint stripper called "aircraft stripper" Its suppose to get the old paint off so there is less scrubbing? I think i will tey some of it unless someone knows that I should not use the stuff..... thanks

ooo man, you dont want to go there.

me and my friend were painting some wheels on his BMW, and we stripped all the paint with that stuff, Yes it works, and YES it took us about 2 days worth of trying to get all of it out and out of all those hard to reach places, and keep in mind that you have to get ALL the paint off, not just some spots, and very hard to get all of it off, and finally when done, you will need to primer all that suff as well, and even.

so my suggestion is scuff up with either sand paper or steel wool, and paint light coats, and dont use clearcoat.

as with the paint stripper, there was issues with applying clearcoat even, and in the right temp as mentioned above.

its definitely not the belt, as i replaced my belt 2k miles ago, and it still happens.

ill see what happens with the oil change that ill be doing soon

Edit: jus noticed how old this freaking thread is, or when the last person posted :D

what kind of a front bumper is that?

thx,

i first cleaned the wheels the best i could, then cleaned them with some steel wool (that took off way more dirt and gunk that i ever tought it would, so give that a try, and then i used a bit more aggressive steel wool to scuff the wheels up a little more so that paint can stick), then i used the rustolium gloss black, put about 8-9 light coats, waited about 10-15 mns between coats, and then put one very thick coat that gave it more shine.

btw, i used the index card masking procedure, so masking took up about 1 minute per wheels.

as for pinstripe, its jsut a pinstripe that you can get at pepboys for $3 that you can use to pinstripe a sde of the car, so it sticks very good, and if you change your mind about it down the road, just peel it off :)

i chose not to put any clear coat

here are some more reference pics for index cards, i painted the back of wheels first

and finished, waiting to dry

its really not that hard.

i painted my wheels few days ago

or pop your hood and see if theres a code writen on there as well

i think anyone that has one with 00 should replace it, regardless if it already leaks or not, 17 bux at the dealer will get that out of the way one less thing to worry about.

and fab, yes the one i replaced it with is oem from dealer, ending with 01, $17 here at a local pdealer

call sunset, i just replaced one of mine, i had one red one, and of course it broke leaving my top in halway position, it was 42 bux for one, so 80 bux gets you a piece of mind with that, and install in as simple as unbolt old and put new in.

good luck

i noticed that when i close my top, and the shell goes down, it makes a very loud noise at the end and then the motor stops and i can latch up the roof.

what can i do to fix this?

any help is appreciated

so just push it out?

what if that doesnt work? would i be able to do anything from the outside of the car? like pulling on it or something?