an86carrera

Oh yeah, the engine is out :

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/an86...mview=slideshow

Thanks Loren.

I found an easy way to get to that bolt, just remove the center section of the manifold with the throttle body and you can reach in with an open end wrench, 10 minutes that way.

So what is the secret??

Thanks, my fingers are bleeding trying to get out the third bolt, not to menting my nerves;o)

any tips or tricks needed.

Same problem here when the sun heats it up. I wax the window whenever it starts which will last a few weeks.

I am doing a clutch on my '99 C4. Since it will be up on jackstands for a while and the trans will be out, the engine will be easy to remove and I thought since my timing chains make some noise for a few seconds at start-up I might replace them along with the tensioners and guides. Does the engine need to come out for timing chain replacement?

Does this sound like a good idea or unecessary at this time? Should I take the engine and trans out together? Also, I thought it would be nice to look at all of the vacumn lines and other rubber hoses for cracks now.

Any other things I should look at since the car has 120,000 miles?

Any good suggestions for engine removal on jackstands, height, tricks or any insight?

Thanks,

Len

For the first few seconds of startup I have a timing chain slap. Is this a known problem? The engine has 106.000 miles.

What parts would have to be replaced? The engine is very good sounding after this VERY short (2-5 sec) noise at cold startup.

Or should I not worry about it. On the other hand, could it be trade in time?

Thanks

I found that you can get an extra 1/2" clearance by straightening the tab on the welded strut aligment bracket.

Just loosen the bolt thru it and raise the strut then straiten the tab which then can be slid down into the slot in the clamp giving you 1/2" additional clearance for removal. I did it on the new ones also which makes it very easy to get back under the fender.

This method also allows a few millimeters of additional lowering by letting the stamped bolt hole rest on the bolt instead of the tab.

BTW this has got to be one of the best mods for a high mileage 996.

Two bump stops came with my kit part number is 996 333 105 03.

Do they go in the front or rear?

Thanks

Thanks, I can go jack it up and prep clean it now.

It's going to be a perfect weekend for it.

Just picked mine up from Suncoast part # is 000 044 500 08. Just want to make sure that it is the correct one.

Planning the install this weekend on a 1999 C4.

Thanks

O2 sensor voltages are not just cycling high / low as I think they should but holding high for a while some times and sometimes holding low. Other times they cycle high / low regularly.

Maf sensor is running about 4.5 at 700 rpm idle and 5.5 at 800 rpm idle.

Maf seems correct, o2s seem bad, my guess.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Just bought a ROW M030 suspension for just under 1100 @suncoast porsche in Sarasota.

This has been talked to death on rennlist.com. Search PSE mod.

I did buy thier Serial to USB hardware and software as I have no where plug in a serial. And it worked on the Tricom cable.

Reason I'm interested in the ABS codes is to do with my ABS an PSM lights coming on at 4700rpm in 2nd and 3rd maybe more gears. I have no codes now and still get the other light every trip cycle.

Do you like the other P-car specialized system better than this one?

Thanks

I could not get the iso to connect, I am using the DB9 to USB adapter though.

Can I get any ABS info from this system?

Thanks

Cable came in, it is the Tricom model and still having problems connecting with it, had the ISO-iTran model before. Will be talking to tech service for OBD-2.com again tonight.

The Maf was changed at 90k service by Porsche. Going to check service records for O2s.

Got OBD-2 cable last night tried to hook up no luck. Called OBD-2 tech and could not resolve he is sending new cable today. Nice people.

Last time I cleaned MAF I did not remove it from the filter housing. So I bought the T20 security torq tool and removed it last night and realized that I missed cleaning the wire section and only cleaned the plate. This must have really confused the system:o)

So... the car is back to way it was. It is running nicely now.

But...I still get the PSM and ABS lights on the first time I pas 4700 rpm in any gear but first???? Lights stay on until I shut the car off. Restart car and rev past 4700 and there back on everytime with no obvious effect on running condition.It has been doing this since the dragstrip event..oops.

Will get back to this when new cable gets here this morning.

Thanks for the help.

Well the car is still low on power but this morning the CEL came back on. With the CEL on a standard code reader gave me 1128 and 1130.

The OBD-2 software is at home waiting for me so I will have more info after I get that up and running. Anything I should do with it to help with the diagnosis?

Thanks

Thanks, sorry I did not search

Has anyone tried this?

http://www.durametric.com/

It claims to access more than most others.

I don't like dealers much. I am one to fix my own. A good computerized ODB II software will give me the levels at the sensors that indicate these problems, right?

Suggestions? There is one reccomended here, any better?

Thanks,

Ian

I have yet to get another CEL just PSM OFF and ABS lights.

Thanks

Peter

I agree with the rain thing I live in Florida and now I can't wait for it to rain.

I also love the silver badge and calipers. Also the '99 was hand built with e-gas, 300hp (I know 4 hp) and has a stronger chassis.

argi

Also I have owned a Boxster. Loved the handling but was not a 911. There is NO substitute.

Good move no matter how you go.

I think it looks great!!

I have same question as ... delirium ... though