Daiji

On the MY99 you can take a screwdriver between the front hood release handle and the rear engine release handle and move the cam that is stopping the release handle from being pulled up to release the hood.

On the MY99 when the battery dies, the cam under the release handles automatically moves into a position where it doesn't allow the handles to be pulled up. What you need to do is manually shift the cam with the screwdriver.

The wing pictured is a ERS wing made by MASHAW.

I know this because I have the same wing. Fits well on my 1999 996 C2.

At $250 that wing is a steal, normally sells for $1,200.

On my car I have added a GT2 front bumper along with TA style side skirts.

The last time I change my oil, it got to be pretty messy, as the oil just gushes out one your remove the drain plaug That being said, I just got a flyer from a local hardware store called OSH where they were advertising a oil changing system. The kind where you stick a flexible hose down the dip stick tube to siphon out your oil.

I realize that you still need to get under the car to replace the oil filter and drain out any remaining oil, but I would think that since you're getting most of the oil out through siphoning, that you won't get that big gush of oil when you remove your drain plug.

Sound reasonable.

Well it took me about an hour to replace the switch. Can't imagine how people can do this in 30 minutes. You need to be a contorsionist to get under the dash to get to the screws. It looks like the swtich was replaced previously as the screws no longer had any red paint on them.

Thanks for sbc71 for his detailed diy. It definitely helps to take out the side vents to get to the top screw.

scb71,

Thanks for the clarification.

One last question, I ordered the same switch from NAPA that you did. Just wanted to make sure that this switch with fit my car which is a MY99 996.

Well my switch just went out over the weekend. So looks like I will be replacing my swtich in the next few days. I ordered from Napa the Audi switch which I should have by Monday.

Just so I know what I will be facing in replacing the switch, I tried to take out the old one using this diy. I ran into some difficulties which I hope someone can help me with.

In step 4 of this diy, it mentions unplugging the swtich by pulling directly off the back. Does this mean that the switch can be pulled directly back out of the dash console, and there is nothing securing it, and then once it is out, it should hang down some so I can get to the screws.

Loren,

I currently have the full power seats on MY99 996. I just saw some partial power sport seats on e-bay which I am thinking about getting.

Based on your comments about Porsche having a custom wiring harness based on the seat option that came with the car, then these partial power sports seats will not work without modifying the harness. Is this correct?

Thanks

To All,

Thanks for the information.

Currently I am running 225/40R18s on the front of my 1999 996 C2, and 265/35R18s in the rear. Due to clearance issues on the front end getting in and out of my driveway, I was thinking of going to 225/45R18s in the front to get a little more clearance. Is this doable? I've heard that it may cause PSM/ABS problems.

After having to replace the key fob twice in the past 3 years, due to my keyless entry not working on MY99 996 C2, I looked at going to an aftermarket keyless entry system. I ended up talking to a local auto alarm store in my area, and they installed a Viper keyless entry system, that was hooked up to the existing Porsche alarm system and has been working really well for me.. The front lights don’t flash anymore and I still don’t get an audible beep but the range of the remote is significantly better then with the Porsche key fob. No longer do I have to stand right next to the car to lock and unlock the doors. Also the cost of going this way was 2/3rds the cost of buying another keyfob and getting it programmed at the dealer. Additionally, the cost of replacing the aftermarket remote if it goes bad is it inexpensive. The down side of course is you have to carry both the key and the remote on your keychain.

Now, I have a co-worker of mine who has a MY02 996 Targa who a while back also had the same problem with his key fob not working anymore. I mentioned that I had installed an aftermarket keyless entry system and he ended up going to the same installer to have the same keyless entry installed on his Targa. For whatever reasons the aftermarket keyless entry system does not work on his car. It will work briefly when he gets out of his car and locks or unlocks the doors with the remote before the alarm firmly sets. But, when the alarm is set the remote no longer works, though the installer says he can hear the aftermarket keyless entry system clicking like it is trying to unlock or lock the doors. One thing that neither the installer or I knew was that on the 2002 cars, if you use the key to unlock the door, then open the door, that the key needs to be inserted and turned in the iginition, or the alarm goes off. I read this later while doing a search on this forum, then I confirmed it by looking at my co-workers owners manual. This is not the case on the 1999 cars, like mine.

Is it possible that this feature on the 2002 cars is the reason why the keyless entry doesn’t work? The installer says that the wiring diagrams for the alarm system on both years are the same. Therefore, he used the same wires to connect the keyless entry system.

Does anybody have an aftermarket keyless entry system on their car?

Went through this same situation 3 years ago, and ended up buying a new key fob from Sunset and getting it reprogrammed by the dealer. Waste of good money.

I had a similiar switch on my car when I purchased it and found out that it was indeed for a radar detector. Can't remember the brand of the top of my head, but if you turn the knob in either direction from the center position it switches the radar from street driving to highway driving. When the switch is in the middle then the radar is turned off. The difference between highway driving and street driving, is that on the street you get more intereference on the radar and it signals more frequently, therefore you want to make sure that you put the radar in street mode when driving on the streets, so you don't get the annoying noise all of the time. My radar transceiver unit was mounted inside my front bumper, so you might want to check there.

Okay I finally got that shifter knob off.

Thought I share on how I did it.

Got the largest crescent wrench that I had. Layed some rags over the shifter console right behind the shifter so as not to damage the the plastic housing. I then layed a piece of scrap 2" X 4" over the rags and the housing, and used that to lever up the shifter knob with the crescent wrench. Prior to that I used my air compressor to shoot some air up between the rubber and the shaft. Don't know if that helped but it might have freed up the rubber from the shaft.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I am going to try Ahsai suggestion and use an adjustable wrench for leverage. I had heard of people getting hurt trying to remove the shifter knob, so I have been little leery of putting all I got into pulling it off.

Thanks Loren, there is no set screw and I tried the twisting and pulling with no luck. I was hoping somebody had a different method to pry it off.

I have a MY99 996 C2 and I am looking for suggestions for removing the original OEM shifter knob which is just pressed on to the shifter. I tried pulling it straight off with my bare hands, as well as using a suggestion that I read, which mentioned using screwdrives as a fulcrum to pry it off. But, its still stuck on there tight.

Any suggestions on how to remove the shifter knob?

Since I am planning to put on a new knob, I'm thinking of drilling a large hole in the top of my old knob and using a gear puller to pry it off.

I have been plagued by noises coming from the rear - rattling, snare drum-like - two dealers have claimed its the heat shields and "fixed" the problem :P . Dealers couldn't make the noise go away. I removed the heat shields myself and the noise stayed. Finally, I tapped around with a rubber mallet and found the source of the noise: the catalytic converters. Something inside is loose. Does anybody have experience with this? I'm afraid if I go back to the dealer, they may start up with the heat shield thing again - I don't want to waste my time.

3 months ago, my local dealer noticed a rattle in my Catalytic Converter and informed me that it would need to be replaced at an exorbitant cost. I searched around on the internet to find a used or replacement converter. What I found instead was a EPA Emissions Warranty that states that for cars 1995 and newer cats are under a emissions warranty of 8 years or 80,000 miles. I called my local dealer and he said he would look into it and get back to me. A few days later he called and said to bring my car in for a cat replacement at no cost to me. Sweet Deal

... and you are located where? (Country and state/province)

... and you want left or right or both?

I am located in Los Angeles, California.

I'm not sure, but I think it's the right side. The one farthest to the rear of the car.

Thanks,

996 Guys

One of my Keys, quit working, I changed the battery, but that didn't help seem the Button on the circuit card in side came desouldered, I attempted to solder it back but no success. Need cost of a new remote for that Key? Knowing Porsche it probably has too be programmed by them as well. Any Ideas, or is there a another post that covers this issue?

D_Man

D_Man

Had the same problem as you recently on a 1999 996. Purchased a new remote one button key head at Sunset Imports for $102 shipped, and took it too my local Porsche dealer to reprogram the car/key. Cost me $130 locally for the programming. Might be me more or less depending on your dealer.

I searched high and low to find somebody besides the dealer to program the key, but no one else does it.

Does anybody know where I can find a replacement Catalytic Converter for a 1999 C2 Coupe?

Thanks