Rickster2

Any ideas on how to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with engine in car? I understand that there is a pulley holder (Porsche special tool 9290) but I cannot find one anywhere.

I also understand that locking the crank to remove the highly torqued bolt is a bad idea. I need a way to secure the pulley while I use a very large breaker bar to crack the bolt.

I removing my front bumper to clean the radiators. The 4 plastic riviets is the problem. How are they removed without ruining them? Or, are they to be replaced during reassembly?

It looks like the whole rivet assembly needs to come out.

Thanks

1 and 7 are not used

2 and 3 are fuel pump relays turbo only

4 heater blower relay

5 relay window defogger relay

6 is the plug for the idle control valve by pass tool, no longer made.

so blocking it should not be a problem

Thanks for the info

Can someone ID these components? What would have been in the empty spots? How often would the #6 socket be used and would covering it with the MSD CDI unit be a big problem? My '86 911 turbo

I have a '86 911 Turbo with the cat removed from the stock exhaust. I am installing B&B headers. The spacer in the picture was between the wastegate and the header pipe but it does not show on the Porsche PET and I think it was added when the cat was removed (to solve some fit issue). It appears that the wastegate does not require the spacer. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks

Oh yea; my other question:

Has anyone ever has the stock seat modified by a upolstery shop to remove seat foam to make the seat deeper?

There is no way to put an airbag in there. I have the carbon fiber GT3 seats (check my registry page for pics) and it is a shell with thin foam. You do not want to mess with those seats for safety purposes. All you will be able to hook up electronicly is the seat belt wires. Thats it, 2 Wires.

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Thorax airbag, it sounds like there is an airbag in the seat - I was not aware of that. That would explain the electronics located under the seat.

I'll rephrase my original question: Will my steering wheel airbag still work if I use the race seat? Or will all airbags be disabled if my stock seat is removed?

Thanks again for the help

What? you mean the recaro GT3 seats? Or like reclining seats from a GT2? If its the GT3 seats there is no way to put an airbag in them.

Sorry, let me be moe specific. I have a REcaro Pole Position seat (which I believe comes in the GT2) fixed mount (no slider) fixed back (no recline).

I want to mount in in my 996TT to get more leg and head room. I see all the electronics under my seat and wonder how I can retain the airbag use with this seat.

My other option might be to have an upolstrey shop remove some foam from my seat??? Wondering if anyone has ever tried that?

Thanks

I'm installing at GT2 seat in my '03 996TT to get more leg and head room. I suspect that the air bag will not work once I'm done.

Anyway to have the GT2 seat and airbag function?

Why is the seat wired into the airbag anyway?

Can I transfer the airbag seat gadgetry over to the GT2 seat?

Thanks

I purchased a '05 and had to upgrade the DVD because my street and surrounding streets were not on the map even though I moved into my house in 1999. The upgrade came with a CD (not DVD) that I put in the CD player and it was a set-up program for the new DVD. A menu driven easy to use set-up that I did myself. I wonder if my set-up CD is compatible with your DVD?

By the way, these cars have the lamest nav system I've ever seen. My little 4" Garmin is more useful and easier to use that the Porsche - but, oh well, it came with the car and I'll make the most of it.

feel free to email me if you want me to check on that CD disk.

rick7211@alltel.net

Does anyone have a seat suggestion that would get me more leg and head room? I need a seat that goes back further and possibly sits lower. My 6' 4" frame is cramped.

Thanks

2003 996TT

1986 930 (with Kirkey race seats)

I had this problem too. Mine was a mouse that nested on top of my engine and ate through the knock sensor wire. The motor puts itself into a "protect" mode and would not go over .4 bar. Sure there are no codes?

Good luck

I've read posts on shifters that need adjustments. My '03 996TT recently had the motor pulled. Prior to the work it shifted like butter (in/out with no problem). Since getting it back I notice a rougher shift and sometimes having to pull it out of some gears with resistence.

I asked the dealer to check it and consider adjustments. Of course, they say it is fine as is. However, I know it is not like it was.

How are these adjusted for smoother shifting and can a novice do that kind of work????

Thanks

Rick

I'll be moving to Phoenix soon and taking my non-CAT 911 with me. What options do I have to get a registration?

thanks

What is the best way to clean the radiators and housings on my '03 996TT?

What car is the rosette on?

Never mind - I got it. Just had to pull harder, which is not easy when I'm worried about damage to the brake line.

Cartridges are in, top nut torqued to 65 flbs, good to go. Oh yea, need some good weather then I'm good to go!

Rick

I'm replacing my cartridges in the Biltein front struts. I can't get the cartridge out of the strut. What is the secret?

I see the rubber seal on the top and my 101 projects books says the cartridge should come right out - well, it's not coming right out! any thoughts

OK, I'm not very knowledgable with electic but can use an Ohm meter. Considering the linkage, I have the control box completely removed from the car. While it was still in the car I worked the controls to see if the servo motor would move. Since my engine is not in the car (top end job) I heated the rear sensor at the heat duct and watched my Ohm meter change as I heated the sensor. I could not get the motor to move. All linkage is connected and cables and heater boxes are free moving.

The only sensor I am aware of that is inside of the car is the dashboard sensor which is connected by a rubber hose to an inlet that is to the right of my steering wheel. I might be missing something there! And, I did not know how to test the dashboard sensor.

I also confirmed that I am getting power to the control box.

I thought I could energize the motor and confirm that it works. But, I could not figure out how to test it.

Otherwise, it sounds like I should wait for my engine and check the system with a warm motor. The Ohm meter values are helpful. I will revisit this problem in a month or so unless someone can suggest how to test with no engine.

Thanks again for all the help

Rick

Is the problem that the fans don't turn on?

or does it blow cold air?

The fans run strong, but the flappers at the heat exchanger aren't closing. The cables are free and the flappers move freely too. The servo motor is not moving the rod to actuate the flappers. Therefore, I am not getting heat, only fresh air.

If it was up to me I would eliminate all the sophisicated electronics/motors/sensors and just install a lever system like in the older cars. Let's face it, Most people driving this car are driver types and don't mind some road noise, climbing into the seats, knowing how to use the tool kit, and adjusting a manual heater system.

But, I do have a desire to maintain the originality of the car and therefore will attempt to rectify the heater problem.

Thanks for your help

The heater control on my '86 930 will not work. I removed the box behind the E-brake. It is getting power, the heat sensor at the heat exchanger seems to be working fine.

I don't know how to test the dash board sensor, servo motor, or circuit board.

Any advice?

Rick

I attached the photo showing what I believe is my "batttery drainer." I think this is the alram horn??? With key out of ignition and alarm NOT activated this little part was making a humming noise (see arrow). I disconnected the leads and it tested at 9.5 volts.

I left it diconnected overnight and my battery maintained it charge.

Is this part associated with the alarm?

Why is the lead wires putting out 9.5 volts to it?

Remeber, my problem has been intermitten.

Thanks

I've been having an intermitten total battery draining. Battery has been full dead after 24 hours, but not always. I recharged it yesterday and listened for anything that might be running. Next to the battery I could hear a noise coming from the alarm horn. I disconnected the leads from the alarm horn and tested a current of 9.5 volts at the leads. The alarm was not activated (ie. doors not locked, alarm not on). The battery tested at 12.4 volts.

The car is a '01 996 which I recently acquired. The battery is brand new Duralast and is correct for this car.

any thoughts?

Rick

Oh, one other things. I reported the problem to my deaaler and they said that I should not leave the car in gear (manual trans) when I park it because there is a gear indicator in the trans that will draw power even with key off. Does not sound reasonable to me.

That is great advise - thanks so much.

Want to bleed the brakes on my '01 996 with my Mightyvac bleeder. Here are my problems:

1. Can't siphon the brake fluid resovoir due to a second screen that does not seem to come out. The top screen came out fine.

2. Started in RR connected the Mightyvac and cracked the bleeder. All I got was spitting of brake fluid rather than a nice flow. Thought I would drain the resovoir via the RR caliper but that would have take all day.

What am I missing here? Why doesn't the brake fluid flow like other cars that I have bled?

Thanks

Rick