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sithot

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Posts posted by sithot

  1. Paint tag on the drivers side hinge post. A pillar black aluminum plate. Paper/mylar/plastic VIN information on the lock post. May or may not be there if the car has been painted and the door areas painted.

    There is another number hidden under the dash pad above the ash tray. And another number in crayon or similar under the dash. This was a "control" number that is used if you suspect you have a "cut car". This number can only be verified by the factory. You give them the number and your serial number and they will tell you "yes" or "no". They will not divulge what the correct serial for the car "should be" if they don't match up.

    More of an issue with the cars that have gone stratospheric in value like the RS, and early S models.

    Goo luck.

  2. I think that is reasonable. Used similar technique in the "old cars" that actually had an oil temperature gauge. Preferred to see a drop off in pressure along with a rise in temperature.

    OT; the Harley Evolution engines didn't like to be twisted until they warmed up. (in fact none of them do)

    Most base gasket leaks were due to ham fisted "get on it and romp the heck out it" owners.

    I've always allowed for a gentle warm up period holding rpms to a minimum until I see the pressure gauge drop and judging by the heat in the heads (put a glove hand on them while riding) I know it's warmed up. My particular bike is 16 years old and dry as popcorn.

    As for the many Nortons and Triumphs it didn't much matter. They leaked no matter what I tried. :huh:

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