Bristol

By the way Loren, what do they call that color yellow that your 911 was? My car is black now, but the original body color was this same color yellow. Down the road when I get it re-painted I'll return it to its original color.

Kirk

6139xxx would originally be from a 1973 911 T/E engine block.

You would need to look at the cylinders and crank to see if it is a 2.7 liter. The same case was used for all (1973 on) so it could ve a 2.7 or even a 3.0 liter engine.

Ah... interesting. The engine is supposedly a "race" engine, although the seller didn't really know what had been done to it. The fan shroud has definitely been painted (it's bright yellow). I just thought it was a stock 2.4L after looking up info on the code. I thought that's what the 911/61 designation means. It would make sense if it was a "race" engine though to maybe be something a bit more than a 2.4L. I'll have to figure this one out before I decide which engine to use in the car. Thanks Loren!

Kirk

Purchased another Porsche today (my 4th currently) - a 1975 911S Targa with 2.7L engine. The VIN matches what it should be. However, I also got another, spare engine very cheap. So cheap, that I didn't really question what it even was (except it was obvious that it was a Porsche 911 six). The engine serial is 6139063 and 911/61. From my research I assume this is from a 1973 2.4L 911T. Does that sound about right? I think I may have found a new engine for my 914 if that is indeed what it is!

Kirk

I haven't been driving my Boxster much (2000 Box S). Yesterday I finally got around to changing the oil again. It's been 19 months and 6,800 miles. I found a LOT of the little olive green rubbery bits in my filter that others have seen before.

But I also found some longer pieces of white rubber.

Just to be safe and investigate further I dropped my oil pan and found a very minimal amount of both types of pieces there. Some of the longer white stuff was stuck up on the oil suction screen though, so I was glad I dropped the pan and cleaned it.

I'm not going to freak out. I only found one speck of metal and just a few specs of the dark brown glassy material from chain tensioners. So I'm guessing that some sealant or o-ring material just got chewed up in the engine. The car is running fine and not leaking oil. I saw someone else suggested the oil filler tube o-ring. That's the only place where I have a tiny bit of an oil leak. I'll have to see if I can take that apart and check it. If the o-ring was bulging inwards I may have snagged it with the dip stick and forced it into the engine... but maybe then it'd just float around in the pan and not get chewed up.

I'm going to run the car for another 6,000 miles and just check the oil filter then, maybe sooner if I lose any sleep over it.

Any thoughts though on the white o-ring like material? There is a definite groove in the material where it seated against something. Where would that have come from?

Kirk

Darn... I'm out. I'm in a CSU graduate program where I have classes all day on Saturdays for the next two years! :o

Y'all have fun now, ya hear?

Kirk

We need to schedule a WOCD. I picked up a project car just for the WOCD. :P My newer Porsches don't have enough projects, so I got one that does need some work. It's a '72 914. Here are some pics:

Now let's get the WOCD setup! :thumbup: I think that Loren is an expert on 914's :notworthy: , so I'm hoping he can give me a lot of help and pointers with my new car.

Kirk

:P It's been WOCM (Work On Cars Month) for me, ever since I got this 914. I start an MBA program at Chico State next week so I've been struggling to try to get the car in great running condition before then. The car runs good now, it just overheats and has an oil leak from the trans. I've been working on it just about every night. My wife doesn't want me to touch her anymore because the grease under my fingernails is imbeded and I can't get it all out! :D My transmission is laying on the floor in my garage waiting for me to put new seals in it tomorrow night. What a headache!!! But at the same time, what GREAT FUN!!! I'm really beginning to love this old car. :rolleyes: Can't wait for the next WOCD. I'm sure I'll have a ton of projects....

Kirk

We need to schedule a WOCD. I picked up a project car just for the WOCD. :P My newer Porsches don't have enough projects, so I got one that does need some work. It's a '72 914. Here are some pics:

Now let's get the WOCD setup! :thumbup: I think that Loren is an expert on 914's :notworthy: , so I'm hoping he can give me a lot of help and pointers with my new car.

Kirk

This is made by www.precisionporsche.com not Kokeln. It looks the same but way cheaper. If you buy Kokeln, you'll end up paying $3,000.00. This one cost way less. The spoiler is attached to the centerpiece which they made as well. Ask for Tony when you call. His phone number is on his website.

Yeah, I see that now. I was just looking at the smaller pictures and not the bigger detail. With the pictures blown up I can see that the Precision Porsche rear deck part is just an add-on deal (glued on?). I think the Kokeln part replaces the entire rear deck lid, which may account for some of the price difference.

I haven't seen this particular part on a Boxster before. You're bold to try it. I guess maybe it's the same rear deck as this car, at least a picture of this car is featured on Precision Porsche's website, so I "assume" it's the same rear deck. I had always thought that guy used the Kokeln part. It's funny that this car is labeled a "GT3 RS" same as yours. What's up with that? Does Precision Porsche give out those decals as a part of the deal or something?

Kirk

Is the rear decklid still made by Kokeln? It looks exactly the same to me. Is only the spoiler (actually it's a wing) different?

Kirk

I don't know if you'd get the best time in a C4 using that method. It used to work great in my WRX though. I'd rev it to 5,000 RPM, drop the clutch, and floor it at the same time. That car was AWD also, but a more evenly distributed AWD than the C4 and you needed the high revs to get the turbo spooled up.

With my C4S I find I get launches better with more clutch slip than just dumping the clutch. If you've got PSM make sure you turn that off, otherwise it will stop the fun immediately. I rev my C4S and then slip the clutch out very quickly, but don't dump it. Once the car's hooked up and the clutch is out, floor the throttle. You may smell the clutch burn, you'll get more clutch wear, but you won't get the immediate and brutal shock to the system with dumping the clutch and you'll still get a good launch. That's been my personal experience.

What you really need to do is find some deserted road and just practice your launches to see what works best for you and your car. So many people suck at the 1/4 mile and I really don't understand why, it's not that hard and you can practice launches legally just about all you want in the right location. Also practice shifting as quickly as you can between gears...

Kirk

Sharkwerks would probably have some experience but may be a bit pricey. They're in Fremont.

http://www.sharkwerks.com/aboutus.php

I've looked at the Boxster passenger seat mount and the expensive BK mount on my 996. I agree that something can be homemade pretty easily and cheaply - which is what I plan on doing in my Boxster. The bolt holes are already there on the seat rail. I'll be using thick aluminum bar material though to make it look fancy (still inexpensive though). I've got a small halon extinguisher wedged between the passenger seat and side sill right now, fits tight and fine. That'll be mounted under the seat like the BK mount soon.

If there was a fire the LAST thing they tell you to do in a conventional car is to open the hood! That lets oxygen in and feeds the fire. They always tell you to leave the hood closed and try to extinguish the fire from underneath - at least this is what I have ALWAYS heard. So what's the big deal with the Boxster then? You don't want to open the engine compartment from the top any way! If I had a fire I would use the halon extinguisher to spray up from underneath the car. The halon will displace the little oxygen that would be up there and smother the fire as a result. With halon you'd want an enclosed area where the gas can work best.

Kirk

We are trying to set this now - expect a date 4-6 weeks out... more to come.

Just a suggestion.... maybe in the future we could schedule a WOCD to coincide with the Euro Sunday meets in Sacramento. I drive down about 2 hours, so this would be cool for me (more to make my trip worthwhile). Those meets usually run from 8AM to 10AM. Maybe we could meet up for an early breakfast, caravan over to the Euro Sunday show (it's free and fun), show of our most excellent Porsches, check out the other cars, and then have the WOCD afterward. The next Euro Sunday isn't 4-6 weeks out though, it's June 28th.

Kirk

You can count me in. I'm sure I can come up with some things to do on my cars!

Kirk

YOUR ride looks F ing siq! congrats man more pics. cool to learn about loren.

and bro lifting it 2" is going to look horrible. trust me.

Thanks man! I'll get more pics when my girl and I do a photo shoot soon. As for changing the ride height... I really don't have much choice. I scrape the bumper all over town with the current setup. Either I leave it as is and the car is a garage queen, or I raise it up a bit and get some use out of it. The decision is already made.... :P

GOT IT, but bad experience at the dealer - the car's tires were 10 - 20 psi low, it was totally out of gas, and it was a quart low on oil. I drove 4.5 hrs to see the car and the arse didn't spend 10 minutes preparing it! So we got it all squared away and I did my inspection and all was good. I bought it despite the dealer. The car was great, near perfect, so who cares if the dealer is a dweeb, plus he gave me a bit more off because of my trouble. I also know the previous owner through the web and I know how well cared for the car was. We stopped by his house and loaded my Montero SUV full with the stock wheels, stock exhaust, and two other suspension sets.

Here's my Christina in Hollister with the car:

I'm going to have to raise the front about 2 inches. It's just too low to be practical right now.

Loren was fantastic too. We stopped by his house fairly late last night and he scanned the DME for me, sent me a backup copy of faults, messages, etc. before clearing them, and helped answer a ton of questions that I had. THANKS AGAIN LOREN!!! Loren's not just a great guy here in cyberland, but also in real life and I'm glad that I know him.

that car is stupendously siq

Thanks, and that's coming from a guy with a majorly siq car!!! Some people actually thought you were selling your car. I cross posted this over on Rennlist and people were thinking it was this awesome looking C4S below. Recognize it?

Don't know it but I like it!! :D Make sure you get a PPI before you buy it.

May I ask how much your paying for it?

Thanks man... I got lucky and found the previous owner on-line and was able to make contact with him. He called me last night and gave me a lot of the history on the car. It's great how the Internet allows you to make contacts like this.

As for the price - I'll send you a PM to let you know, once the deal is completely done.

Kirk

2003 C4S with TechArt front bumper, roof spoiler, rear wing, rear bumper pieces, and coilover suspension. HRE wheels plus carbon fiber and black leather interior. Car is located in NorCal. Anyone know this car, know the previous owner, or know any history on it? Seeing as how it's well modified I'd think it's been seen around. Google searches on the plate number and VIN pull up very little though. Clean Car Fax. I've got a deposit down on the car and am going to pick it up this weekend. I just thought I'd double check to see if anyone here knows anymore about it.

Thanks,

Kirk

Gemballa 2000 Boxster S

In a former car audio competition car of mine I installed an 8" sub under the dash. I assume you're talking about installing the sub just under the dash and firing down toward your feet. When I did this before (not in a Boxster) the sub was just mounted on a baffle board. I've checked the Boxster and I just don't think you have room for much of anything under the dash, let alone an enclosure! Just mounting a small sub on a baffle board is not going to sound good... Of course the guy from JL said it was great... he's a salesman trying to sell you a pair of subs!!!

Kirk

Has anyone tried these in real life....

I've got the same lights but in clear/chrome rather than black. They're like a 10 minute install and work same as stock pretty much. The only thing that I did different is jumper the wire between the fog lights and brake lights so that the fog lights now come on with the brake lights. The rear "fog" lights with these LED tails are actually bright red LED's, so they work great in conjunction with the red LED brake lights. Without doing that though I thought the brake lights were a little lacking in impact.

Kirk

I have to replace the front cross member on my base 99 Boxster. I ran over a rock and it broke off the bracket for the strut.

I think you need to give a little more detail, maybe a picture would help. I don't really see how you could damage the cross member by hitting a rock and the strut assembly (shock and spring) mount directly to the hub, so what bracket you broke is unclear. The procedure that usaf-lt-g gave you a taste of is correct for removing the cross member, but the cross member is the HUGE support that makes up the lower sub-frame in the front and ties both sides of the suspension together along with the steering. I really don't think you're looking at replacing this!

Kirk

Folks we are going to postpone this and will be rescheduled at a later date.

Thanks Loren! I was just getting on here to see what the plan was with all of the rain anticipated. I was busting my hump to get my car's suspension tuned and aligned for the long drive down to Sac. Now I can relax and have a beer or two tonight. :D It wouldn't be real conducive to have the WOCD with an 80 - 90% chance of rain.

Kirk

nice ride! Bristol, I like what U've done to your car.

Man those Gemballa side skirts & rear bumper are way too TIGHT!

1 of the finest silver 986s I've seen around. But only 700 for the rear bumper?

Thanks man, I appreciate the compliments.

Yes, $700 for the rear bumper... which retails for $6,500. I also got the $2,000 exhaust thrown in for free. It's all about finding the right kind of deal. Here's a $10,000 carbon fiber front bumper AND carbon/kevlar fenders for $600:

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/automot...-front-end.html

Mine was a similar deal, although not so bad. The Gemballa bumper was damaged in an accident. I did all of the fiberglass repair and bondo work myself and made it as good as new, if not even better and stronger. :P

Kirk

Hmm... I'm looking for a new bumper and side skirts myself, but can't seem to find anything that's sharp and doesn't cost in excess of $6000. My 2000 Boxster S still has stock front bumper, no side skirts etc. If I replace the front bumper, I assume I really need to get the side skirts and can I do without a rear bumper? or Do I have to replace that as well... just wondering what each of these options cost.

It just depends on how radical you go. The 997 GT3 and TechArt bumpers are pretty radical and add a very racey look to the car. They'll look a little strange without side skirts. But a less radical OEM style bumper would look fine without side skirts. There's a guy in the classifieds now selling a yellow 996 front bumper VERY cheap. That's a little upgrade from a stock 986 bumper that would not need side skirts. I've also seen someone recently selling a complete Boxster aero kit pretty cheap.

You don't need to spend $6,000 looking for good quality body parts. Just be patient, know what you want, and keep your eyes open for a good deal. Then when you see it, jump on it right away! I got my front GT3 bumper for $400 with a new lower lip spoiler. I got my Gemballa rear bumper for $700. My Gemballa side skirts were pricey though at $1,750, but I just could not find a deal on those. Throw in another $1,500 for painting and yeah I'm out about $4,500 with total costs, but I could have spent well over $8,000 for the same parts with standard pricing.