PJorgen

Just got my TRG rear sway bar today, will install this weekend. Couple of questions, the bar has four positions, I was planning on using #3 - the next to most stiff. Anyone have any experience with this and care to share your opinion?

TRGs drop links are length adjustable - what is the purpose of this? Not sure, but guess I will match the length to the original drop links. Any other suggestions?

Will probably call TRG tomorrow and get their input.

BTW - 2002 C4S, tracked about once a month, drive to work 1-2x per week.

Anti-roll bar mating bearing to spring strut (M52 x 1.5) (lock nut) - 911 GT3 -- 50 Nm (37 ftlbs).

Anti-roll bar to side member M10x1.5 -- 65 Nm (48 ftlbs).

Anti-roll-bar mount to anti-roll bar M10 - 911 GT3 /911 GT3 RS -- 55 Nm (41 ftlbs)*

Anti-roll bar mount to spring strut M10- 911 Carrera 4/911 GT3 -- 46 Nm (34 ftlbs)

Anti-roll bar mount to wheel carrier M10- 911 GT3 RS -- 50 Nm (37 ftlbs) **

* 3-stage tightening procedure. First Tighten to 50 Nm (37 fllb.). Then loosen by 90° and then tighten to 55 Nm (41 ftlb.).

** Coat threads with Loctite 243 before fitting. Tighten all threaded connections immediately.

Thanks Loren, appreciate the quick reply!

Model and year of your please?

Dang it! I always forget to include this info - label me an idiot!

2002 C4S

I'll be installing TRG's rear sway bar and drop links next weekend. Can someone give me the torque specs for the various nuts and bolts that I'll be working with?

I checked the M030 ROW install DIY and didn't find the specs for the sway bar and links. Are they there and I'm just being lame?

Update - CEL came on about a week after I first posted. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer. Diagnosed as TWO cats performing at low efficiency, totally covered by the emission control warranty. Dealer replaced them both with no grief.

One interesting thing I learned from the service advisor; you must have a CEL for the cats to be replaced under the emission control warranty. No CEL, no warranty replacement.

Kudos to the people in the service department at Stead Porsche in Walnut Creek. My first visit there, they didn't make a dime off of me (all under warranty) and they treated me like I was thier number one customer. Excellent service experience.

Suggest that you try Sunset Porsche if you want to order new manuals (use the "porsche parts at dealer cost" link at the top of this page). Be prepared for sticker shock, they are waaay expensive.

Check e-bay as well, somebody is usually selling a set of manuals.

Good luck and have fun.

Loren - thanks for the suggestion, I wasn't aware of the GT3 option. Not sure if TRG has it, but will check around.

wxseed - why do you say that neg camber won't cure understeer in the C4? Also I assumed that kam took 3 seconds off his time at Pocono, not 3 tenths. 1 minute and 03 seconds to 1 minute. Am I interpreting it wrong?

I've not dedicated any time to try to fix this. I either leave the cup holder open all the time or use my Swiss Army knife to pry it out. Still hoping someone will post a fix for it.

More negative camber will allow for more tire contact in turns, typical track settings are -1.5 degree or more. With the stock set-up I can get only about -0.2 degrees.

So, anyone installed camber plates? Loren, anyone? Is this mike on?

I'm thinking of getting camber plates from TRG for my 2002 C4S. I track the car regularly and want to decrease the understeer with more neg camber than stock allows.

So, is installing these a DIY project or should I leave it to the pros? I've worked on my cars for years and have a good selection of tools, always willing to buy more if necessary ;). I realize I'll need an alignment after the install, I'll leave that to the pros.

TIA!

What?

Great suggestion guys! I hadn't even thought about the emissions warranty, it is 7/70 in California and the car has only 40k miles on it.

Thanks!

My '02 C4S has the same thing. I've noted that it always smells very rich on start-up. Seems to be normal for these cars.

Last week I noticed a rattle from the rear of my "02 C4S. Definitely sounded mechanical and exhaust related. After much poking and tapping around under the car I think I've identified the source. It seems to be from the LH catalytic convertor. I'm guessing that something has broken loose inside the cat, as it rattlrs when I tap on it with a rubber mallet, and I ensured that it was not touching or rubbing against any other component.

So, as I see it I have the following options:

Do nothing. The harmonics of the rattle are such that it only rattles at idle, and it's difficult to hear in the cockpit. It doesn't seem to affect performance and I'm guessing the car will still pass smog check.

Replace it with a genuine Porsche part. Any idea of cost?

Install an aftermarket exhaust system, but I'm not sure if these systems include cats.

Comments and suggestions welcome. Is this common, anyone else have a simialr experience?

I don't mean to seem thick, but what the heck do these spark plug tubes do? Are they a normal wear item and should I plan on replacing them when I change my spark plugs?

Well, I change my cool nats all the time :lol: However coolant is different.

Seriously, they do call it lifetime coolant, but there are differing opinions on this. Suggest you search and decide for your self.

As for how it's done - power flush is the best, but you can DIY by just draining.

Thanks for the info - that makes sense. I always used an assistant (my wife) but she's sometimes not available. Guess I'll break down (ha!) and buy a pressure bleeder.

I understand that the Porsche Service Manual recommends against bleeding the brakes using the old-fashioned pump-the-pedal technique. Any idea why? I've done it this way with my P-car and a whole stable full of Audis for years, with no apparent adverse affects.

Anyone shed some light on this?

Cool! I just noticed that thingy on my car and was wondering what it was.

I recommend Thunderhill, and Hooked on Driving (www.hookedondriving.com). Thunderhill is a wonderful track for beginners, very few walls and tons of run-off area. I love Laguna and Sears, but they can be intimidating for a first-timer.

HoD has a great program and is very welcoming to novices. They also work hard to ensure a safe event.

fab996,

It would appear as if English is not your first language - which is cool, the whole world loves Porsches.

However, I don't believe that any of us understand your question. You might try rephrasing it.

You can't blame all us Yanks for my extremely poor spelling. I take full responsibility for those gaffs.

I disagree with Nick49. I do oil analysis on all my vehicles and find it to be a useful tool. The lab I use, Blackstone, has a large database of results, so your results are compared to averages for that make and model. Yes, not all variables are controlled for, but if something is high, it clearly indicates a problem.

The only problem is that it is important to know how many miles the oil has on it. If the oil was changed recently, then the results are less meaningful. However, Blackstone charges only $20, so you don't have much to lose.

Thanks for the info guys.

BTW - I don't think they sell petrol here in the States, can I use gas instead? :D

2002 C4S coupe, USA model, standard suspension, totally stock.

Had an alignment done last week when I had new tires installed. I requested -1.0 degree front camber. When I picked the car up I was told that the most they could get was -0.1 degree per side. Is this typical, or should I try another shop? This shop specializes in exotics, Astin-Martin, Mazeratti etc.

FYI - They were able to get -1.5 degree in the rear.

TIA for the advice.