PJorgen

It's at the dealer today, bad O2 sensor, covered by the standard 4yr/50k mile warranty. Will be replaced at no charge!

Checked the warranty book and am very confused. The main 4yr/50k mile warranty specifically excludeds anything covered by the emission control warranty, of which there are many. The only place where O2 sensors are mentioned is in the federal 2yr/24k mile emission warranty.

The California 3yr/50k and 7yr/70k emission warranties do not mention O2 sensors, so are the O2 sensors included or not?. As I said, very confusing.

Will talk to the dealer and find out.

Got it, thanks. Just realized that the car is still under warranty. Not sure if O2 sensors are included, but I'll probably start there.

Car is an '09 Carrera 2S with PDK. I have a recurring CEL that comes up with code P2414, which means a bad O2 sensor 1 on bank 1.

How difficult is it to replace this sensor? I'm not even sure exactly where it is. Any idea what a dealer would charge to do the work?

Just completed this install and it went well, but I now have an airbag light on the dash - any suggestions as to the cause and remedy?

All other warning lights like PSM, etc went off after a short drive.

You will need the Durametric software, or a Porsche PIWIS to reset the airbag.

Stopped by Stead Porsche in Walnut Creek this morning and they reset the light. Stead is great, I had no appointment, just showed up. Service Manager Melissa offered me a cup of coffee and they reset the light while I waited - no charge!

Just completed this install and it went well, but I now have an airbag light on the dash - any suggestions as to the cause and remedy?

All other warning lights like PSM, etc went off after a short drive.

I've got Porsche's 980-611-981-00 battery maintainer that I use to keep my '09 C2S charged and ready to go. However - I've got an off the wall question: can I use this unit to maintain the codes in the car's brain when I disconnect the battery to replace it? I know there are some inexpensive thingies that connect to a 9v battery to maintain the memory. Will this unit do the same, or fry the electronics?

IIRC there are a number of bulbs in there, not really designed for individual replacement. I ended up replacing the whole unit, ordered from Sunset. It's plastic and mine had gotten very brittle, from exposure to heat from the engine I assume.

Thank you Loren!

For a 2002 C4S, I'm installing a DAS-Sport roll bar, which bolts to the top of the rear shock towers and the lower front seat belt mounting points.

Would like to have the factory torque specs for both of these.

Happy Easter and thanks in advance!

-PJ

No gaskets.

See the write-up here

Thanks! Once again your reply is right on target.

I'd second removing the mufflers. Took me 15 minutes to drop both mufflers, which makes changing all six plugs so easy it is ridiculous. Finished the entire procedure and was terrorizing the neighborhood with my car sans mufflers in less than two hours. While the plugs can be changed without dropping the mufflers, I'll refer you to all those who spent 4 - 6 hours doing the work for an endorsement of that method. Almost makes me cry reading about all the suffering trying to reach those back plugs when the mufflers go off and back on so easily in less than 30 minutes. Mine has had an erratic idle at times. All of the coils showed superficial cracking after 80,000 miles in the Arizona heat, but I am pretty sure they are still good - and just a bit too expensive to replace for fun. I have oil leaking from a couple of the plug tubes that I suspect may be getting in the coils and could be the cause.

Seems like removing the mufflers makes sense, but are there any issues with reinstalling them? Do they require new gaskets, any problems with leaks?

Also - what is the torque spec for the muffler bolts?

Finally got around to replacing the part - pretty simple. Needed to remove the coat hook (#20 in diagram above) and the B-pillar (13) which required removing the seat belt attachment. All pretty straightforward.

Popped the old one out, new one in and reassembled in reverse order. About 15 minute job.

Thanks again Loren.

Thanks again Loren; ordered from Sunset for $14.40.

Dang, you are right on target, 16 is the part. A few more questions;

How do I describe this part to the guys at Sunset Imports? Is there a specific P/N?

I need the left side, this diagram shows the right side - do I just indicate left?

I understand that I need to specify leather color, how do I do that? Is it linked to VIN?

Thanks again Loren.

OK, did a dumb thing yesterday; was loading an ice chest in the back, shoved too hard and abraded the leather on the interior. Would like to at least understand how much the part would cost to replace, if it's available.

The details: car is a 2002 C4S. Need a part number for the slotted trim piece where the driver's shoulder belt exits from the side of the car. It appears to be separate from the rest of the trim. Hope that description is clear enough.

If anyone else has replaced this piece, advice on how to do it is welcome too.

TIA.

I decided to stick with OEM as I've had good luck so far. Rotors were $153.92 each from Sunset Imports. Caliper bolts, spring kit etc were another $60. Will do the work this weekend.

I measured the front rotors on my '02 C4S today and they are just below the min thickness of 32mm. Can anyone recommend a source for reasonably priced slotted rotors for this car? By reasonable I mean about the same price as OEM.

TIA

I agree with above for what its worth. This is just a load of B.S from suppliers of N2 for people who have more money than sense! If i wax my car alot, maybe it will be more 'slippy' through air hey???!!! Air is mostly Nitrogen as already said, so the advantage will be minimal. Unless you are an F1 team looking for every slightest advantage and improvement, you aint gonna tell fella's lets face it. Wow, you need to 'top up' your tyres from time to time (every few weeks unless you have a puncture, maybe thats it guys?!, before track day, whatever) ............... bid deal!!!

No! Use helium, it will make your car lighter and therefore faster.

Just change the tires on my truck and the shop asked me if I wanted to fill the tires with nitrogen. They claim this is the latest technology and that the tires won't lose air presure. In the event the "air" pressure goes down it can be compensated with regular air. $35.00 for life.

Has anybody heard of this?

Yes, very commom now, and hotly debated. I run nitrogen in my tires, and like it for 3 reasons:

1) The nitrogen air is very dry, and I store my car for the 5 months of Chicago winter.

2) Less/no leakage during the 5 months of storage

3) More stable tire pressures during driving season, since nitrogen is less influenced by air temp changes

Lot of the info on nitrogen is incorrect. All gases behave according to the ideal gas law, and the amount of expansion with change in temperature is almost identical among common gases. Air is about 78% nitrogen, so using 100% nitrogen would give you very little benefit in any case.

The big advantage to commercial nitrogen is that it can be very dry. The water vapor in ambient air is a significant contributor to thermal expansion, and air compressors often make it worse if they're not properly maintained. However, you can achieve the same thing by using dry air. Also, the idea that nitorgen doesn't leak out as much is not true, so a "lifetime" fill is a crock of sh*t.

I respectfully disagree, just a little. Nitrogen is a larger molecule, so it will not "leak out" as quickly within the matrix of the rubber.

As for the "lifetime" fill, I think this refers to the fact that they will give top-offs, free, for the lifetime of the tire. At least this is they way I read into it.

I respectfully disagree in return. Nitrogen is larger than what? Oxygen is the other major component of air (approx 18%). Molecular weight of nitrogen is 14, oxygen is 16. both are diatomic elements, so in nature they occur as N2 and O2, molecular weights of 28 and 32 respectively. Another component of air, albeit very minor, is CO2; clearly a very large molecule.

Your comment about the free lifetime fill makes sense, I may have misinterpreted it.

Just change the tires on my truck and the shop asked me if I wanted to fill the tires with nitrogen. They claim this is the latest technology and that the tires won't lose air presure. In the event the "air" pressure goes down it can be compensated with regular air. $35.00 for life.

Has anybody heard of this?

Yes, very commom now, and hotly debated. I run nitrogen in my tires, and like it for 3 reasons:

1) The nitrogen air is very dry, and I store my car for the 5 months of Chicago winter.

2) Less/no leakage during the 5 months of storage

3) More stable tire pressures during driving season, since nitrogen is less influenced by air temp changes

Lot of the info on nitrogen is incorrect. All gases behave according to the ideal gas law, and the amount of expansion with change in temperature is almost identical among common gases. Air is about 78% nitrogen, so using 100% nitrogen would give you very little benefit in any case.

The big advantage to commercial nitrogen is that it can be very dry. The water vapor in ambient air is a significant contributor to thermal expansion, and air compressors often make it worse if they're not properly maintained. However, you can achieve the same thing by using dry air. Also, the idea that nitorgen doesn't leak out as much is not true, so a "lifetime" fill is a crock of sh*t.

That article seems like a lot of BS to me (I'm a biochemist, been working in the biotech industry for >20 years). This statement is a joke:

"Most fuel molecules are sluggish with respect to their natural frequency. Acetone has an inherent molecular vibration that "stirs up" the fuel molecules, to break the surface tension."

Yeah, right!

Agree with the other poster, acetone is a pretty agressive solvent, wouldn't want to test it on the seals in my P-car.

Also, use the reality check method. If adding acetone was such a great thing to improve mileage and reduce pollution, don't you think Shell and/or Chevron, etc would have figured this out some time ago?

I have to change the outer tire rod in my 99c2 can i marked the the spot to returned to the position now any tricks or ideas. without messing the aligment or as close as possible.

First off - it's a "tie" rod. Second, you can get pretty close by trying to duplicate the current installation, but not perfect. If you have good tires and care about the handling, get an alignment after replacing it.

Also - you should really replace both, not just one.

First time I've run into something on this car that was poorly made. I've got an '02 C4S, and noted that one or more of the bulbs in the third brake light was out. This is the main 3rd light, not the one in the retractable wing.

Anyway - the owner's manual has full instructions for removing the lens and replacing the bulbs. I take it out to find that the plastic has become incredibly brittle and the sockets for the bulbs (7 of them!) are these mickey-mouse little copper brackets attached to a couple of rails that carry the current. The thing pretty much disintegrated in my hands, and I was being gentle with it.

Looked it up on the price list (996.631.050.00) and it's over $100! Guess I'll put it back together best I can and order a new one from Sunset Porsche.

Not really much point to this post except to rant about the poor quality of the brake light assembly. I realize that plastic gets brittle in the sun and heat, and this part is exposed to a lot of heat from the engine. Usually Porsche takes this kind of thing into account when it designs the parts, but not in this case it would seem.

Not sure where you are, but in California, I've never had problems getting insurance on a car with engine mods. I have State Farm and worked with the same agent for years, so maybe that has something to do with it.

The probems occur if the car were totalled and you felt that it was worth more than they offered you. Probably best to let the agent know in advance about the mods.

One option is a declared value policy where you declare the value of the car, obviously more than blue book, and pay for the difference.