doubleb

Hi Loren,

Car finally fixed, however no radio code left by the previous owner. Can you help?

Becker 1

type 4467

# 15004219

24/99

Much appreciated!

Regards,

Sebas

Try 5080

or

5078

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

#5080 did the trick, tunes are back! :D

Much appreciated!

Sebas

Hi Loren,

Car finally fixed, however no radio code left by the previous owner. Can you help?

Becker 1

type 4467

# 15004219

24/99

Much appreciated!

Regards,

Sebas

Ok, an update. I hate it when I seek a solution to a problem and the symptoms are there in a post, but the post does not contain the solution.

Here we go, turned out the timing chain on the left cylinder bank snapped (bearings intermediate shaft gone bad). It also took out a piece of the camcover. A few bend valves and also the intermediate shaft was damaged. Conclusion, engine overhaul. All parts that porsche had upgraded over the last 8 years have also been replaced by their newest version. Also all parts that are subject to tear and wear (chain tensioners, ramps, bearings etc) including a new intermediate shaft, valves, chains etc. The hole in the camcover could fortunately be welded (a new cover + head, they come together, would be very expensive!).

Total costs 10.000 USD.

I could also have chosen to replace the engine with a used one, however this can be recepy for another failure at any time. Revision gives me a warmer feeling. Now the engine also has warrantly on replaced parts. It runs like it's new and hopefully this won't happen again..

Without a PPI do not buy a Porsche. I have been there twice and couldn't resist (foreign country buy) and regret both ;)

Get it thouroughly checked out by a specialist. I am not joking!

Good luck man, searching for and buying a P is always the most fun part.. except fot driving it on a beatiful day haha.

Tucked between the cooling water tubes, engine left front side (rear side of the car) on the camshaft.

Found it. It is actually near Cyl-1 on bank 1 (see attach).

Cheers.

I've been browsing the site and internet for hours, but can't find the location for a 996 2002 3.6L camshart position sensor for bank 1 (drivers side).

Anyone any clue or pictures?

Much appreciated. :notworthy:

I've been thinking.. could a bad camshaft position sensor cause these symptoms?

Any way to check that?

Car hasn't been sitting at all, driven every day. Could it still be a battery problem even when one bank is fireing and the other is not (doesn't even have exhaustpressure at the tailgate)?

I am thinking (hoping) the cat on that side has failed and is blocking the exhaust from that side hence had O2 readings etc..

Could that be it?

Alright, got the battery recharged and fired her up again, starter motor still not turning the engine with the same speed as I am used (?) but no rattles or strange noises. With the MAF connected she dies very quickly once releasing the gas throttle. So I disconned the MAF, that helped a bit.

I rechecked the codes:

P0343 - Camshaft sensor row 1

P0102 - MAF

When idling (very rough) I checked both exhaustpipes for pressure. Seems the entire bank 2 (passenger side) is not doing anything. No exhaust gasses and pressure from that exhaust (passenger side) at all.

What can this mean? Just the camshart sensor or a camshaft or timing chain malfuntion/defect?? :o Maybe a clogged catalytic converter??

Any thoughts? Would be appreciated!

I have the exact same car :D Happy motoring!

Regards from Holland.

Tonight I drove home and 40 miles before destination cell light went on and kept flashing. Was barely able to drive home on (my guess 2-3 cyliners and able to do max 60mph).

Only with very slight amouts of gas the car would keep on rolling.

Car: 996 C2 Automatic from 2002.

Today i connected her to my durametric software and these codes came up:

0300 - general misfire

0301 - misfire cyl1

0302 - misfire cyl2

0303 - misfire cyl3

0304 - misfire cyl4

0305 - misfire cyl5

0306 - misfire cyl6

0343 - camshaft sensor over threshold

0102 - MAF

0139 - O2 behind cat bank 1

0159 - O2 behind cat bank 2

I deleted these codes (since there quite a lot :( ) in an attempt to start te car afterwards and see what codes would come up. Unfortunately it seems my battery has passed anway.. could this have been the cause? Ohh please I hope so..

Thanks all.

Regards,

Sebastian

Or what I've been doing ever since driving 911's or boxsters.. just turn the gas handle 180 degrees.. Yep that's right, put it in like you were standing on the other side of the hood.. works like a charm and people stare @you like you're from another planet.. haha

Good luck!

Definitely don't buy that car if the shop who is selling doesn't want you to have it checked out by a dealer (10 miles.. come on). Why don't you let them drive it to the porsche dealer and you just follow in your own car... Any hesitations regarding this should make you stop buying this car immediately, something must be wrong!

Just like vette mentioned, just don't fall in love with the first car you see until you are absolutely sure it is in mint condition.

Good luck man, this is really the most fun part.. just finding your car.. B)

If you want to be sure (and you should be!) have a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) done by a respectable specialized Porsche shop. I cannot emphasize enough how important that is. FYI, if you buy the car and the engine (cracks?) blow up in notime you're looking at 10-15K costs to repair!

What should be one of the best experiences (to own a Porsche) will become a nightmare. Take it from someone who learned the hard way.. ;-) (just very persistant.. haha).

Don't mess around with Durametric software (with this tool you can dig intro the computer and such), but have the DME and all electrical stuff onboard read out by whomever is performing the PPI. There is a lot that can be wrong with the car without you even noticing it and could potentionally be very expensive to repair!

Just make sure you do your PPI, then you'll be fine..

Hi Loren,

It took things apart today. Seems that the correct seatbelts are in place (with wire). All is connected as it should be, at least so it would seem so to me. Only thing I can't figure out is where the heck the seatbelt pyrotechnic wire goes to..

I've attached some pictures from the seatbelt wire and the wires under the drivers seat. There's a lot diffents wires there, not sure what to check. Allso ground seems good, no corrosion, tested it with a multimeter to the chassis and got 0 Ohms..

I can delete the airbag faultcodes, but they return in no more then 2 seconds.

Could it be that the pyrotechnic belt tentioners have gone off (accident) and were not replaced? Any way to check that?

Any other ideas?

Gotcha! Will do that asap. I will let you guys know the outcome. Anyhow thanks for your help!

:renntech:

Ok, thanks will do! Uhhh left side, that's the drivers side right? :rolleyes:

Do I need to check if the seatbelts electonics are plugged in under the leftseat or at the seat belt assembly (B-pilar) itself?

Thanks Loren!

I live in the Netherlands. The car is from Belgium.

Don't know what the previous owner did with the seatbelts but it would sound strange to me if they were replaced by older ones.. :huh:

Any clue how to fix this? Need to check if the belts are replaced with old style ones?

What seatbelt partnumber normally goes into a 996C2Tip from 2002?

Thanks!

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the fast answer. Nope I just bought this car this weekend.

Any idea how to fix it? Replace buckles and mass connection ?Will both airbags not work under these conditions?

Thanks a lot!

Regards,

Sebastian

Hi Guys,

Airbag light popped on (996 02Tip). Can't reset it with my durametric software. Faultcodes are: 23, 25 and 27, any idea?

Thanks! :renntech:

Regards,

Sebastian

I had a RMS failure as well (two times). Finally the dealer GLUED the new seal into place, with the same stuff they use to glue sideskirts to the body. Been 12 months now and completely leak free. They say this does the job once and for all and do that on every RMS leak they encounter..

Might be helpfull! Worked fot me.. :renntech:

I had a RMS failure as well (two times). Finally the dealer GLUED the new seal into place, with the same stuff they use to glue sideskirts to the body. Been 12 months now and completely leak free. They say this does the job once and for all and do that on every RMS leak they encounter.. :rolleyes:

Might be helpfull! Worked fot me..

Drove for 50 miles. So far so good! No gassy fumes, strong idle. Happy!

It will be a sunny in Holland 2morrow, so I know what I'm going to do haha

:renntech:

Loren,

Could be I just found the cause. When I took out the replacement O2 sensor that I "borrowed" and installed on Bank 1 ahead of cat it was completely black AND when measuring with a multimeter. I measured:

Ohmmeter on pins 1 and 2 => Display: 2.6 ohms at 20°C, so that's good!

Ohmmeter on pins 3 and 4 => Display: 111K ohms at 20°C, not so good! (Sould be indefinite right?)

Replaced it with a new O2 sensor and it seems ok now. Could that the cause of whole odeal?

Much appreciated.

Hi Loren,

The O2 sensor before cat on bank 1 has been replaced, but still the same P0130 code.

Can the O2 sensort after cat be at fault? I cannot get it loose to inspect it..

Allso how can P1125 & P1126 exist at the same time?

Thanks!