WTL

anyone ever try these?

Disclaimer - I know nothing about how this works 😒..... The driver side axle boot. Went to the dealer and the car was in the bay on the ground. Greasy smear inside driver side wheel has been diagnosed as a leaking driver side axle boot. A few questions... 1). how hard / involved is it diagnose? Guessing it depends on the size of the leak? Can it be as simple as removing the wheel and seeing a leak, cracked boot? It didn't even look as if the wheel had been removed 2). can anyone provide any info as to what gets replaced in a new vs rebuild repair. Still waiting on the parts numbers form the dealer. Does anyone have any schematics - curious. 3). Considering dealer pricing, rebuild at $2000 vs new at $ 2550 - thoughts?? High, low, etc.? I know what I think 😖

So I went to check out 2 independent shops. I like the 1st one but they told me they are not taking new customers. The second seemed ok too but unfortunately was booked up until end / middle July. So I headed back to dealer. Not hearing back since I dropped the car off this past mon, I dove out this am. They told me they left a message on my house line.... Weird I say as I had no missed calls from them and no messages - i did double check when I got home and no missed calls from Porsche..... Oh well. The service manager went over the ticket with me - the oily, grease on the front driver wheel is a leaking axle boot he says - rebuild $2441.00 w/ alignment. New $2026, but not sure if the alignment is included in the price - "have to check". He said the shocks, PSM are fine. Everything else looks good.... As im trying to wrap my head around the axle boot issue, he offers to take me out to the car and show me. It was in the shop, but not in the air... As were talking to the mechanic assigned talking about the boot, whats involved etc, the mechanic offers to lift the car. I didn't want to put him out so I declined as he was working on another job. In hindsite, I should have accepted. So now the manager says the price for the new and the rebuild are the same price because the rebuild price seems not to have included the alignment... I say weird, same for new vs rebuild - I guess ill take new.... Then the mgr say ill have to double check the prices as I don't know why the alignment wasn't included. I then ask the mechanic, so the shocks / psm were ok, right. he says, I didn't know anything about the shocks. the manager shows him the ticket and the mechanic says he missed that and didn't check them or the psm. Now, im wondering why the manager told me they were ok and there was nothing worng with them when they were never checked..... Mechanic says he will check it out. The manager and I go inside for him to re-work the boot prices. Comes back and now rebuild is $2000.00 and new is $2550.00.... NOT impressed so far. But I know that going in.

anyone replace theirs? Any recommendations on where to get quality replacements?

I know I’ve seen posts re: this but for the life of me my searches are all coming up empty on this site. Can someone help? Looking for a source to get mine replaced by someone who has done this.

Tks again. I also like to keep it in the middle of the high/low area. For some reason this time it just wasn't registering.

thanks Jeff. when adding oil is is best to start the engine and then stop and let settle and check? Best (more accurate) to do all this on a warm engine vs cold?

the other day the dash oil indicator was at the low indicator bar. Checked when engine was cold before journey. I added some oil and checked again. No movement in indicator. added a little more. no movement after checking a 2nd time. Added the rest for a total of 1/2 quart added. Check a 3rd time (engine still cold & was not started) and the bar moved from low to 1 bar above low. So I was not worried about overfilled as the difference between the min and max is ~ 1.2L according to manual. However, the next day I checked the oil again, again a cold engine, and the level was at the max mark. I then warmed up the engine to operating temp, etc. and checked the oil pressure according to p. 96 in the manual which states pressure to be aprox 3.5 bar at 5,000 rpm. Mine gets to 4 bar at about 3,000 rpm. questions: Is what the manual states ~ 3.5 bar at 5,000rpm an accurate indicator? I mentioned it to the shop this am and they said don't worry. If so, why is mine so different from what the book reads? When adding oil is it recommended to start the engine so its warm before adding? Wait & check & start & wait after each time oil is added? If I remember correctly each of times ive ever had to add & check the oil, the engine was cold...... Tks

Tks. Im going to ask again to some of the guys in the local Club. Being a little OCD myself, I also try to help out and like to provide parts, etc., when possible. The problem around here though is that tech's, repairman, painters, etc., usually tell you one thing and do another - usually not even close to what's suppose to happen. I think it's something in the water or maybe because we're below sea level..... Case in point - had some window glazing cut, replaced, primed and painted. I used a reputable painter and was careful to research class A materials, etc. especially because my builder used crap, didn't follow specs and the job was very poorly done. Quote from new guy included specific materials I asked about and they told me they were suppose to use. When the guy was doing the job I noticed totally different, generic stuff he was using. When I called him on it and then talked to the owner of the business, he asked, "Who told you we were using the other stuff?"... I replied, your 2nd in command whom I set this whole thing up with and who came out, went over it all and gave me the quote. Turns out he's the same guy who sets up the workers, etc and they just ignored what they told me. Its a common theme here ..... Anyhow, TMI. Going to look around today. tks..

Yep. Unfortunately there isn’t another Porsche Dealer within about 2 hrs. Heck the dealer here won’t even patch a tire - they tell me Porsche won’t let them - liability issues they say. I tried a few months back actually. And, the Indy I went 2, literally 1 minute away from the house, the guy used about 1/2” drill bit to make the hole bigger for the plug. I have seen guys [ and me] use a Phillips let’s say to ream the hole a little, but never a big bit on a drill. I keep on waiting for that to shoot out….

So im have a few dealer questions --- And whether anyone still uses a Porsche Dealer for working on your car? Haven't gone back in about 2 years as they had botched new tire install and didn't get my parts in time for a DE..... BUT, I also have not been able to find a good independent shop either. Might try that again.... But more recently ive noticed a possible brake fluid leak ( when cleaning the inside of one of the wheels recently, in addition to the normal brake dust, I had gooey substance smeared/mixed in with the dust). I did not take the wheel off but did not notice anything unusual from what I could see. The brake reservoir was also below min mark maybe 1/2 in. Also would like a 2nd opinion on the shocks as they seem not comfortable at all when bumps. So here's the dealer part..... in re: to the shocks the dealer says if the shocks are gone the ride would be too bouncy NOT rigid and suggested them checking out the PASM/Sport Mode settings - maybe not resetting. Also diagnose possible brake leak. So the dealer says they have the head tech they wold want to give it to but he's the only one cert to work on Tycans and they are busy and short handed. Also says parts are hard to get. I said no rush, schedule me in at you convenience im in no rush. They give me a week out and tell me it could take a week or so to diagnose then parts could be an issue so it may be in the shop a couple of weeks. Huh I say?!? Can you keep inside I ask. Nope, not until we start working on it after the parts come in. So I ask, its ok to push me out some more so it can be diagnosed in same day it comes in. Well, it doesnt work like that he says - not sure how much we can do at once so it'll most likely take some days on and off to get it diagnosed..... ok, I don't get it.... Isn't that the point of an appointment? Get it in the shop to get it looked at the same day its dropped off? Am I being unreasonable in asking that? Have things changed that much w/ dealers? There is not another close by....

Good to know, tks

Didn’t occur to me at 1st, but makes sense they would go by internal 997.1, etc., for designation not the actual model no. As told to me also by Porsche in Atlanta.

Got it on the no big deal - righto. Last kink in the process - i tried 2 browsers on different computers and the order would not go through. I think its a PayPal / browser issue / new security-cookies thing. I had tried deleting history, etc. and no go. All my info was good and Paypal ok too, just would not go through. Finally got Luke on the line and after working through w/ him and still not working, I asked if he could send a request to me through PayPal. He was happy to and it worked. Nice C/S. A+ for effort on his part. Good to see that !!

ok, per Luke no renntech or PCA discount. they've already got that built in. He says 1 week even though the web est. is 2 weeks.

$20.00 for 2 week delivery. I could walk there and get them quicker. haha. do they offer a renntech or pca discount i wonder

Got it. I was thinking Bosch when I said oreily. But like you said they aren’t going to have oem. I’ll just web it. Tks.

Well ive called Sunset now about 5 times between Friday and now. All ive gotten is a voicemail. So, it leads me to think no-one is home or they they don't have enough help. Either way, im a little old school , I just prefer to talk to a human. Gonna run to O' Reilly to another local when I go out.

tks Silver

As usual - tks! appreciate the quick turnaround.

is it possible to get just the rubber insert to replace? Driver and passenger sides. 2006 911 C4S Cab. tks

So I think I answered this as looking in this thread title Model Year Car listed, MY 1965-89, the 911, 997-1 is not a classic”? To be considered for Classic Shop Resto. im guessing they go by 911 model not the 997 designation for the 10 years out of production…. “If you have a Porsche that has not been produced in standard production for at least 10 years, you have a Porsche Classic.” Was toying with the idea of having some serious takin’ apart done and I don’t know of any shop in the nola area that I would trust….

yep. that's basically what ive been trying to figure out. and because all I can get is a generac number, I do not know what I should be putting in the generator engine. the 2 dealers I talked to gave me 2 different plugs - that's why I asked. so, maybe in this case the "more is better" thinking, i.e., platinum vs nickel, may be the way to go. All I know is what came out, not what is OEM. Because I have not always done it myself - mostly - not always. I cant find what it came with. But now we get back to the overthinking...... I just wish Generac wouldn't treat it like a national secret. All good.

tks for the help. good to know.

Tks. My mistake - I clearly saw you typed "Block All Cookies". But my brain got and was thinking, "Block pop ups", which I have enabled. I do not have enabled Block All Cookies. So who knows. Maybe you're only suppose to get an informational page and are not given the option to make changes. Its the same for me on Firefox on my Mac laptop too.