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Tks for the link. A lot of good info. Dealer says no error codes and all is normal. Just don't understand why the fan speed use to increase and cool the cabin faster instead of now decreasing speed.

can anyone verify for me that when the cabin is at or near the desired temp setting in auto cool and then recirc is selected, that the fan speed increases to cool cabin quicker? The clip shows what mine is doing now - it actually decreases speed whereas before, it used to increase speed to cool quicker. I have a 2006 model year. Tks IMG_0027_2.mov

Kinda torn - looks so good w/o them.

Loren & j - I haven't decided to replace so I don't know re: instructions. Have read online to use a mixture of water with a smidge of dish soap sprayed on the back of the new overlay and get it in place then squeegee the water out. If I do replace, maybe a colored one vs clear?? Mine yellowed pretty quickly and have been living with it for years now. Can't get over how much better the car looks without them. Thinking about A new set of Fuchs wheels too but I'm trying to figure out the best way to see how the car will look with them.

Thanks for the part numbers and the tips! I used a heat gun and while they did not come off in 1 piece, each one tore about 3-4 times. Each side had about 1/4 the size of a pencil eraser head worth of glue stuck on the car - coincidently where I started the pull on each one. Cleaned the area up with alcohol/water mixture. The whole process took 1/2hr.

So I'm not even sure what this is called - see pic - but over the years they have become stained and I'm wondering what exactly they do, if they can be removed easily and how and if so will there be a noticeable difference in the underlying paint or should i just replace them with new ones? thanks for any help / thoughts!!

Hey Ahsai - I don't have the Durametric tool unfortunately. I'm still looking for some help on how to access the ac components in the footwell - I think that's where there located. All I can find are the parts schematics but I need know how to access them. Anyone who can provide some directions? Tks!!

still trying to figure this out. can anyone tell me where exactly the attached parts are and how to get to them? Specifically, no.'s 15 and 17....

I'm looking for any suggestions, 1st hand experience or not in trying to figure out what to do re: this issue. Lately it seems that when I hit the auto button on the air conditioning, the fan speed does not seem to increase to where I am accustomed to seeing it go in order to cool the car. In other words, in a hot cabin after hitting the auto button, I used to see the fan increase to maybe 75 or 80% with the temp set to 73. It now goes to maybe 50% or less and then I have to increase the fan speed manually. The system does cool just fine if I do the adjusting(fan) manually. Another thing I've noticed now is when I put the AC in re-circulating mode, the fan speed decreases while all the times before this it use to increase speed after going in re-circulating mode. I'm trying to figure out what the problem may be. Thanks!

here's a response I got from the pac.org question I submitted. Seems like it's going to be a tough and most likely expensive one to fix. when i asked the dealer i go to, the 1st thing he suggested is replacing some linkage/cable underneath the car, but could not guarantee results. As it doesn't happen all the time to me, I decided to hold off. gear selector hard to move997 | Transmission Model: 997, Year:2006, Mileage:30000, Type of use:Street use only thought I had submitted this - but maybe not. My center console gear selector is very hard to move after after periods of use. Does not happen all the time - maybe occasionally after long drives - D to P, D to R, etc… Just very hard to move. Any ideas? Thanks! PS it's a Tiptronic 11/12/2013 10:37:52 PM There are only a few moving parts that could cause a stiff shifter. Starting from the shifter itself, to the sliding silver cover over the shifter, to the shift cable and finally the transmission. It really comes down to a process of elimination. In my opinion the shifter cover is the most likely culprit and it would also be the easiest place to start as the shifter cover is removed quite easily. It is possible that there is some dirt/debris between the slider and the fixed portion of the trim cover. You could remove the shifter cover and continue to drive the vehicle to see if your issue returns. If the cover is not the cause of the resistance the shift cable itself could be getting gummed up causing the shifter to move with more effort. Perhaps the concern is with the transmission selector lever on or in the transmission. If the concern rears its head after long drives it is possible that it is related to the temperature of the vehicle. Unfortunately a concern like this is difficult to find the source unless you can repeatedly duplicate the concern. Try paying extra close attention to the events leading up to the shifter becoming stiff. You will need to isolate the individual components to find out which item is causing your concern. The shifter trim cover can be removed and the vehicle driven to see if it is the root cause but the other components cannot be checked while the vehicle is being driven. Further diagnosis will need to be done when the shifter is acting up. With the stiff shifting concern present you can remove the shift cable from the transmission and the shifter assembly which would isolate each component. With each component isolated you should find your culprit. Dustin Aydt [sVR] 2/4/2014 12:30:49 AM

tks. understand the 2400 thing and the other stuff, but cannot figure out why the residual is the same in both of he examples i posted considering what the sales guy told. i guess it's just a porsche thing that he will not take into consideration the value of the options and audi does. maybe the cayanne is TOO in demand. bottom line is that i am not going to take that big of a hit, pay 5.75% and have a maintenance of every 5k miles - great mileage or not. i tried the site you mentioned and could not find info on a 2014 diesel cayanne. still looking on the site though. tks

15k. I understand all the stuff dphatch said, but if what the sales guy told me is accurate, the residual should not be the same on both of my examples. also, i went and talked to an audi sales mgr. and he told me that audi does factor into the residual the fact that the car does have options. that does not make sense to me and the fact that i take all the number the porsche guy gave me and plug them into the formula and my final payment comes up lower than what he is showing me. i can take numbers from the audi guy and plug them into the forluma and get a payment that is within pennies of the quoted monthly payment.

So I guess what you're saying, is that I pay full price for the options, but they do not get included in the figuring out of the residual price? The way the sales guy explained it to me is that Porsche uses a MRM price in figuring out the residuals. I have the list he gave me and the MRM for a 2014 diesel is $71,000. He said for the lease to work in my favor I had to build a car that is actually priced as close as possible to the MRM price as possible without going over the published MRM. If the actual sales price is lower, then he said the sales price would be used. In the 2 work ups he gave me, he used the MRM price in each, which when compared to what he told me does not make sense. Am I missing something here? Lease examples.pdf

so the last time I leased, I did not pay much attention - it was a different life then… So basically if the sales price is 77k and the max MRM they figure the residual on is 71K - it's basically options that are not being taken into account when I turn the car back in? The dealer will not adjust the MRM, the money factor or price as he says they are all dictated by Porsche and I feel like they should be a little more flexible - I do understand if they will not due to supply and demand, but i do not see why I should have to take a hit on the options. Make sense? Tks

Can anyone tell me why a dealer is figuring a lease residual rate on something called MRM price rather than the actual selling price in figuring a lease? The MRM price being used is 10% lower than the actual sale price thus giving me a much lower residual and a higher lease payment. Thanks

thanks. sounds like i'll have to put up with it for awhile and see if i can figure out more about what causes it to happen. right off the bat, dealer suggested replacing a cable from underneath the car for about a grand i think.

wanted to bring this post back from the dead as my '06 exhibits ocassionally hard to shift gear selector. seems to happen after long drives. anyone have any ideas as to the cause? Dealer has idea - replace shifter cable. I submitted question to pca tech board with no reply yet. Tks!!

You also have to reset the PSM (w/ a drive to the end of your driveway) and the auto-dip/one touch window open close (open window all the way, then press switch down again & hold for 2 seconds, close window all the way and press switch up again holding for 2 seconds). Maybe seat memory too if you have but that's pretty much it. BTW, most off the shelf replacement batteries in the US, as I understand, are all made by Johnson Controls. They may have slightly different specs across brand names but for most part, they're the same - just wear different lipstick (labels). Aside from buying correct group size (so it meets min specs), your decision on what brand should primarily be geared towards warranty. In the past, when Optima offered 7year replacement, I had no problems paying their 30% premium. However, they've since cut back to 36mo yet increased the premium to 50% +. As such, I'll buy if I can get a comparable price to other 36month batteries, if not I'll pass. I do prefer their AGM format as opposed to flooded cell since my car is stored 5-6 months per year but it's not the be all end all. A well maintained battery can last a long time but it's getting tougher with all the vampire juice demands of today's intricate electronics. The OEM battery in my '99 986 lasted ~ 10 years to the day. The one in my 997 probably was good for at least another year (making it 6years old) but I was starting to see some weakness (required more frequent distilled water top-offs) and decided to change it preemptively. Good luck :) Any more ideas on how to reset the one touch/auto up function? Just changed my battery for the first time and my passenger side one touch auto up no longer works. Driver side is fine - did not have toeven reset that one. Have tried the reset procedure with the driver side button and the passenger side button with no avail. Other than that, both switches seem to work fine..

Never had problems with mine. I do have it lubed when getting serviced. I would bring it back to the selling dealer and get them to fix it. Did car come with warranty??

Last update-ran tank to empty and refueled. No problems, no overflow, no premature fuel nozzle shut off. The only difference I noticed is that the gas nozzle now sicks out of the fuel neck about 4 inches when fueling. Does not even reach to the vapor barrier found on the nozzles.

UPDATE - after my 11/29 post above, had a new problem - was trying to keep the gas level near empty before bringing it in for a new fuel neck. Had to add 2 gal. because I was on reserve and when I started the car, the fuel gauge needle had not moved. Turned car off and back on again, no movement. Had to add 3 more gallons to get needle to move. Since then, the fuel neck has been replaced and I had my 1st chance today to add 1/2 tank w/ no overflows, no problems. So far so good. When fueling, it did seem like the nozzle did not go in as far as it use to. Maybe my imagination, maybe a change with the new fuel neck?? See attached pic for a piece that was not used. Apparently it's a piece used for CA. emissions that's required there.

Latest update - recently had another issue filling up. In addition to the nozzle not turning off and fuel spilling all over the ground, now when I put the nozzle in and pull the lever to start fueling, it shuts off right away. Have to pull it out 3/4 of the way to fuel. Took car to the new dealer in my area, Porsche of New Orleans, and they say that the problem is caused by a defective fuel fill neck on car. Part ordered. Will update after work is done. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Are you still experiencing the problem? If so, you might have to just fill it manually, figuring that when your low-fuel indicator is activated, it'll take about 12 gallons. Do a little experimentation to "feel out" refill requirements at different indicated levels of your fuel gauge. After a fill-up, I usually check my fuel gauge anyway before replacing the nozzle, to make sure it's topped up. Sorry to hear that you've kinda run up against a stone wall. Would any Porsche dealers in your area by chance have gas pumps at or near their shops, so you could demonstrate the problem? Since our local dealer gave the franchise back, the next closest is 1 1/2 hrs away. I drove there specifically to fill up w/ them a week ago and demonstrated the problem. Their suggestion was to fill up at a slower fuel flow speed from the nozzle.

Heard back from cust srvc rep. at PCNA. She said after doing some research, she has discovered that the problem is most likely caused by a microchip problem in the rubber boot w/ pumps that have the rubber boot fuel vapor recovery system. Apparently the system is malfunctioning and causing the pump not to shut off when it should... According to her, especially know to be a problem in TX.... Looks like that's all the help I'm going to get from them.

I complained to my dealer awhile back about a "blip" or hesitation around 2,000rpm under light driving. Upon accelerating, rpm's going up, then a brief noticeable minor dip, then all good and normal. It's been awhile so I don't remember all the reasons they gave me in telling me it's normal. Something to do with the way the engine is mapped, cam timing, for increased fuel economy....