WTL

Heard back from cust srvc rep. at PCNA. She said after doing some research, she has discovered that the problem is most likely caused by a microchip problem in the rubber boot w/ pumps that have the rubber boot fuel vapor recovery system. Apparently the system is malfunctioning and causing the pump not to shut off when it should... According to her, especially know to be a problem in TX.... Looks like that's all the help I'm going to get from them.

I complained to my dealer awhile back about a "blip" or hesitation around 2,000rpm under light driving. Upon accelerating, rpm's going up, then a brief noticeable minor dip, then all good and normal. It's been awhile so I don't remember all the reasons they gave me in telling me it's normal. Something to do with the way the engine is mapped, cam timing, for increased fuel economy....

PTEC has it right, it comes with the allu. door sills sold as spare part, they are used to clean up the paint, after removing the old OEM standard plastic door sills, then the allu. sills are glued on the clean paint.

Ahhhhh. I think that's it. It looks exactly like a Scotch Brite pad. What I thought PTEC meant originally was that they are used to clean the aluminum sills. But, then I thought that would scratch the aluminum... Cleaning the paint before application makes sense.. THANKS

Trust me . . . It's used to stop rattles and squeaks inside the cabin.

Most rattle/squeak specialists use this type of material to wedge in-between rattling or squeaking surfaces.

Go talk to the 'squeak specialist' at any new car dealership and you'll confirm this.

Now on the other hand I've been wrong in the past (1 or 2 times at least) so don't put any money on it.

Tks. I did have a lot of rattle issues and the dealer used some styrofoam(SP?) looking stuff. Anyhow, it seems funny to me that the cars would come new from the manufacturer w/ a product used to quiet squeaks... :rolleyes: Like I said, back in the glove box it goes.

When closing the doors on my Cabriolet there is a slight window rattle... not much, but enough to make me think that someone in quality control had an extra pint at lunch... I would expect a nice simple tuetonic thunk. Instead it sounds more like my 65 mustang...

Clearly a big issue is the fact that it is a cab, but there must be some kind of adjustment or window gasket that is worn... any suggestions from the collective?

Cheers,

Oski

Not sure what year your car is, but on my '06 Cab. the windows go down a bit while opening the door, then back up and sealed when closed. Try to reset your up/down switches for the front windows.

Seems like it might scratch the aluminum?? Anyhow, I showed it to the service writer when I went to the dealer today, plus a couple of sales guys, no one had any idea. Mechanics either... One service writer said he use to see them in the cars back when he use to prep them but could never figure out what it was, so he just started to throw them out... Back in the glove box I guess.....

Well, not sure about the angle of the hose??? Never in my life have I had to hold a hose(well maybe once, :D ), etc., etc, to fill up a car. Did the hour and half drive to the dealer so I could take the mechanic to fill up the car and what do you know, fuel over flowed. But, as nice as they are, they have no idea what's causing the problem. Suggestion from them - next time when filling use the handle lock on the pump in the middle position instead of max and see what happens.

Okay, I've had this thing in my center console for about 4 years now and can't find any reference to it in the manual or on the site here. Is it a charcoal filter for the a/c(Cabin area)? I think I remember my salesman telling me something like that, but where does it go? It's not very big, about the size of a matchbook. Wm

Can't tell where they drain out, but I definitely found them...

I've always filled the same since the car was new - put the nozzle all the way in so the rubber vapor boot on the nozzle is snug to the fuel filler neck, then I pull the handle all the way up and use the lock feature on the nozzle to "auto fill" till full and the pump cuts off. Lately, the fuels either overfills and spills out or the pump cuts off before the tank is full. Happens at various stations. Customer Service rep. at PCNA seems to think the pump manufacturers are changing the size of pump nozzles and this is causing problems. She told me this is a know problem in some states??? Can't think of any stations I've used that have had the ground sloped so that the car was not level.

Got the car back from the shop where they added fuel to try and duplicate the problem. They said they had no issues or overflowing and can find nothing wrong... Meanwhile, I had a chance to drive the car a long distance today before stopping to gas up and what do you know, it overflowed... While it did not spill all down the car this time, the pump did not shut off when it should have. Waiting for PCNA to call me back...

PS I tried to attach a cell phone video of the gas overflowing but got an error msg"Not permitted to pload this kind of file" Sorry....

Hey Paul, Thanks. I'm gonna take a look for mine tomorrow - going to the track then for a solo DE day and test and tune before the w/e sprint races on Sat and Sun. Wm

Will be 4 years in June for me and I've probably heard my fan(engine compartment I'm guessing???) go on probably twice. Or at least I think that was the one. I thought there was some update awhile back for the engine fan??

On my 99 996 it's used for the battery compartment drain, drivers side. Maybe Porsche moved the drain and left the hole or the drain moved and left the hole.

Heck, I don't even see a drain for mine. All I see, is the vent tubing for the battery that runs from the battery down to the passenger side front wheel well. Sometimes when I'm washing my car and not careful, I have to open the battery compartment access and sop up the water...

The pictures and the diagrams are great. However, I can't tell from the diagram that any of the holes correspond to the one I have. It's the driver's side front wheel, looking straight in above the wheel to the well wall side that runs perpendicular to the battery. Anyhow, I suspect it's original from the assembly process and should have been capped with a weld patch or grommet... Will do soon. Thanks for all the posts----amazing info and feedback!!!

Might be for PASM wiring but not sure where that enters the wheel well. In any event, the hole should have a rubber plug over it. Would check the hole itself for rust first. If it shows any signs of rust it isn't a factory issued hole. If it is rusting I would deal with that first before capping it but I would definitely cap it properly.

I did not inspect it too closely yet. There are definitely no wires passing through it.

Just curious - I was cleaning up around the battery compartment and was curious if anyone knows what the purpose of the large cap is/was used for? It's on the passenger side of the car. Also, while looking around I noticed a cut out in the driver's side wheel well not plugged. Are these "normal"?? See pics... TKS!!

Large caps can be found throughout the vehicle. If you remove the trunk liners in front and back you will find several more. I am not sure what the hole in the wheel liner is for. Did the PO drill it?

PO??? Port of Origin, Entry??? Anyhow, I don't know. Have only had dealers do reg. mtnc and a little warranty work. 1 non dealer tire change and brake flush.

I do not know what the welded cap is for.

The wheel hole might be for the tpms sensor.

Paul

Who knows??? I don't have the tpms option....

Just curious - I was cleaning up around the battery compartment and was curious if anyone knows what the purpose of the large cap is/was used for? It's on the passenger side of the car. Also, while looking around I noticed a cut out in the driver's side wheel well not plugged. Are these "normal"?? See pics... TKS!!

Regarding the 4 years or 20,000 miles.. I would of course change all your filters (engine & Pollen) change your serp belt and flush your brake fluid. If you are even the slightest bit mechanically inclined you can do all of these yourself (except possibly the fluid flush.)

Ther are DIYs on this site. You can do the belt when you change the engine air filter. If you have never done it before it wil take you maybe an hour to an hour and half. The pollen filter takes 5 to 10 minutes. You can buy all the parts you need on line for cheap..

Just keep your reciepts and make a log of the service you did for your records.

If you have the brake fluid changed by your mechanic have him do a once over of the underside of the car, hoses, brakes etc.. All the things to check are on the site under "maitenance schedules"..

You can change your spark plugs too but it may not be necessary.

Hope this helps..

Okay, the car is back in the shop b/c they did not do the major the service 1st time and I'm trying to fix a fuel fill problem(different post) and driver's seat issue. They are replacing my seat. Items they said that needed to be done for the srvc are: replace spark plugs, air bag service, top maintenance, rep. tire sealant, new belt and pulley.... Just had recent brake flush and oil chng. No mention of any pollen filter, air filter, etc... Upon questioning the belt & pulley chng, they told me that the belt looked fine, they were just "suggesting" I replace both. I told them to skip that part.

Um... I think Vizcarra is thinking of the 9x6 series cars. I do not recall a TSB or Workshop Campaign for 9x7 series cars

Not to say it could not happen but there were issues (covered in TSBs) in the early 9x6 series cars that could cause this problem.

Maybe someone else can confirm which car??? I'll check it out too. TKS!!

I deal with this in the shop regularly.

Porsche has found that there is the possibility that some of the above-mentioned vehicles may have a

fuel filler neck installed that is incorrect. These incorrect fuel filler necks prevent the vehicle from

being filled up by prematurely triggering the automatic safety fuel cut-off feature built into the service

station fuel filler nozzles

But even if the neck is installed properly sometimes its the anti-spit valve in the filler neck.

The campaign number is A604, and although some cars are not on the list, most of the time its the filler neck. In any case the dealer nows that its a common problem.

Update - the car has been in the shop now since a week ago Wed and i was told the campaign doesn't apply to my car and unless I can duplicate the problem, they don't know what to fix. They have found no issues. The PCA tech Q&A also replied that there are no outstanding campaigns for my car....

Um... I think Vizcarra is thinking of the 9x6 series cars. I do not recall a TSB or Workshop Campaign for 9x7 series cars

Not to say it could not happen but there were issues (covered in TSBs) in the early 9x6 series cars that could cause this problem.

Maybe someone else can confirm which car??? I'll check it out too. TKS!!

Will update next time I fill up. Tks!!

There was a campaign on the filler neck for this issue in the past. It can be either the filler neck or the fuel limit vapor valve on the tank or the evap canister overloaded at one time in past with fuel from overfilling. If your car is still under warranty, just take it to the dealer and let them know that this is a hazard to you every time you refill.

S.Vizcarra

Porsche MeisterTech

http://meistertech.blogspot.com/

Will do. Tks for the tip. Have talked to multiple dealers and no one had any idea what could be causing the problem. Will report after my check up....

Will update next time I fill up. Tks!!

You may want to slow the speed down. Pump in eight

gallons and then set the spped lower.

Good luck.

I would try another station.

Paul

good idea about slowing down the speed. will let you know. Tks