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adsach

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Everything posted by adsach

  1. I threaded aquarium hose used for bleeding brakes through slots in the screen and sucked out the brake fluid leaving the screen in place.
  2. Stock sway bars are not adjustable. The bar might have a loose bolt at the ends. You may have replaced or missing bushings that clamp the sway bar to the frame(in the middle). These are visible with the belly pan plastic covers on. I had a bushing housing bolt come off once - it clunked. You might check your wheels. Handling might be off due to wheels rotated front to back (this happened to me once at the dealer). A wheel could have been dropped and now have a bent rim or a missing wheel weight - but this would probably show up as shimmy/shake rather than a handling issue. The sway bar doesn't have to come off for the clutch. I don't know if it needs to come off for the axle shafts If the sway bar and wheels looks ok. you could try Hunter Road force balancing - other than that I think I'd return the car to the mechanic for an explanation. YMMV - I'm barely a shade tree mechanic. Others may have better advice.
  3. Nope - I was the one who posted like an idiot. :oops: I really should avoid posting on this forum during the daytime when I'm fully awake <_<
  4. Yes - the cables can be replaced. There is entire sub-forum for Boxter Top Issues and Solutions http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showforum=46
  5. You might get some more data if you have someone read the OBD-II codes.
  6. Normally I'd go for #1, but on a silvery car with grey interior, silvery-gray sidelights, silvery-gray BBS style wheels, gray calipers and clear headlights, I think the Monotone color scheme could be extended to the wheels centers. Trade in the orange headlight reflector patches for silvervision bulbs and find a monotone hood ornament and you would be making a statement - subtle perhaps, but a statement. - but then what to I know, I've got a blue car with the old style orange taillights :D
  7. I just put sticky backed velcro on a flat surface behind the switches (center panel next to radio) - matching sticky backed velcro on the remote - and wires from the remote to the new switch. I haven't had the velcro come loose once in 3 years. It is about a 15 minute job to change the 9-volt battery - I did it once.
  8. I saw these bolts when I replaced the clutch recently - I just didn't have anything in my toolbox that fit them, and I didn't want to wait until after a visit to the auto supply house to reassemble things. This was basically a question for 'next time' With the car on jackstands and transmission and muffler removed, there is plenty of room to sit upright with with your legs crossed where the transmission used to be. There is room to get a breaker bar and an 8" extension on the end of the "triple square" flywheel bolts and swing your elbows if you need to.
  9. Never having done this, what part of the job required going under the car? Did you take the seats out, or was there enough room to do the job comfortably with them in?
  10. Boxster (986) Carrera II wheels (rear) ...Carrera front 5 spoke wheels. Call them what you want - they are beautiful wheels, and exactly what I would have purchased if they had been available in late fall 2001 when I ordered my car. When I went in the dealership to pick up my car a few months later, and saw a set of those elegant 5-spoke wheels my jaw dropped. It would be real nice to have the 'stiletto heel' look for the legs of my baby. :thumbup:
  11. Do you happen to know the proper wrench for removing the flywheel bolts? (02 Boxster S)
  12. The tendency to be quiet when cold seems to rule out expensive internal bearing surfaces. Quiet while cold seems to point to things that 'warm up'. I can't think of anything with the catalytic converters so that seems to leave the water/heater hoses and some parts of the air intake system. I would check the rear trunk for noises and mist around the coolant cap and overflow tank. I really don't understand enough about Boxster Exhaust gas recirculation and intake to know where to look but it seems like a cracked throttle body, crossover pipe, etc could be a problem. Have you checked your ODB-II codes?
  13. I agree with highlander - it's only a month. Park it as normal. If you lock it, you will need to use the key manually in the door slot to unlock since the key sensor 'goes to sleep' after a couple of days of inactivity. Flat spots in tires are NOT a problem, they will go away after your tires warm up. Tires take about as long as an engine to warm up. Even a fully flat tire would not be a big deal if only for a month (unless that month is in full desert sun.) Ad Sach
  14. Actually the reviews section looks a lot better on my screen today. It appears to be rationally formatted. Previously I had broken columns for the posts that were not enclosed in a box so pretty much flowed from one topic to the other. Donations - good info. When I get a new job, I'll send some money. Yes I know I can click on the subform "For Sale" links from the main menu - what i can't tell from the main menu is if one or both are updated because the intense blue box doesn't tell me which subforum is updated. As for "subscribing" to the site - I actually like the direct web page browsing experience. This was a minor quibble anyway - i wouldn't have mentioned if It if I hadn't posted about the reviews section.
  15. First off, Thank you. I like this forum. I enjoy the expansion to aircooled, etc. If I didn't dislike PayPal, I'd already be a contributing member - but someday. One section I just don't find useful is the Reviews section- The format is confusing and I believe contributes to the lack of content. Something closer to the navigation, display, and update feel of the rest of the website would be easier for me, and possibly others to use. P.S. A minor quibble - why place "Cars for Sale" and "Parts for Sale" in sub menus. With all the choices on the main menu, placing both "Cars" and "Parts" on the main menu would save a click and make it easier to monitor for updates in each section.
  16. Nicely put Brian. You managed to explain why N rating may be of value to both Porsche and the consumer without recommending slavish addiction to N tires. Thanks for the balanced contribution.
  17. Any chance you have a couple of months left on your 4 year warrantee (meaning a free replacement?)
  18. The writers of Porsche manuals like understeer. This is probably a result of legal advice. Most Porsche drivers, especially Boxster drivers, like neutral steering and/or power on oversteer. IMO you do NOT want understeer and should not choose a tire on the hopes of increasing understeer. In my 02S w/US030 suspension, increasing the front tire pressures from factory recommended 29 PSI to 33 PSI takes out most of the (undesirable) understeer. The behavior of the 987 is similar, but different.
  19. If it is like this then a BFH. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=1006&hl=stud <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks. Which seems like the riskier plan... leave it in the car and swing a 3lb sledge at it and possibly break studs holding header to the clyinders at the other end. or remove the header to swing at it in a bench vise and possible snap the studs holding header to the clyinders while trying to remove the header. BTW - what is the torque to reinstall the header (2002 S)
  20. There's a spare muffler for sale over on the Boxster Racing Board http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/index.cgi?read=25792
  21. I have seen that Harbor Freight jack in person and it looks good but is skimpy on lift height. You will probably be much happier with the 17.5in lift of http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=47246 This one looks VERY good in person :D I'd recommend you get a jack that has 3-4 inches more lift than the jack stands you intend to use on the car. I find my 10.5in - 15.5in jack stands to be adequate but could use a few more inches than the 14.5in maximum lift of my floor jack. P.S. after about 20 uses, my hockey puck is badly split - almost bad enough to make me walk over to the cabinet and get out my spare hockey puck :)
  22. Now that I reread your post, I can see that I was picturing the exhaust pipe end of the headers, not the block end. I'll amend my suggestion and defer to having the studs loosened and repaired as needed by a reliable shop. Any one have any suggestions about what to do with snapped bolts at the triangular flanges for the exhaust? (I have 2 broken off)
  23. How about drilling or burning out the sheared studs with a torch and putting in bolt/nut combos? <this is a question-not a suggestion> It has been my experience on american cars that ALL header bolts and studs break as the heat advances rust and destroys the threaded rod. Extremely rusty exhaust bolts (unlike say headbolts), not only snap but tend to 'weld' themselves into place so that easy out techniques don't seem to work. The boxster seems to be no different. There is ample space and access for bolt/nut sets. Replacing a stud with a stud, especially after helicoil, pretty much guarantees you will break it again next time you need to take apart the system. This has to be one of the most common problems seen by a muffler shop, what do they usually do? Cut off the flange?
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