chaudanova

your car did not come with the factory alarm and you are having it installed now, correct?

are you having it done at a Porsche dealer or independent?

is the alarm module new?

Well, my car had the keyless entry & alarm system, but I'm having a Clifford Authorized Installer, install a Clifford security system in my car now...

And yes, the alarm module is new... but the thing is, we have not even started to install the new alarm yet... all of these weird things have occurred during the "pre-install" as he was testing/verifying the proper wires to tap into.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Hey guys, so I'm stumped with this one. I was having my Alarm/Security System installed, and while the technician/installer was testing out the wiring for the door locks, door open/close wiring, windows, etc, some strange things happened:

Prior to this, everything worked normally. Now, these are the new symptoms:

1) Originally, the driver side door, when using the key to unlock/lock the car from the outside, this would control the central locking, and open/close both the passenger and driver side doors. (the passenger side would originally only operate the passenger side itself, and not control the driver's side). NOW, this is Switched, and the passenger side locks/unlocks BOTH sides, and the driver side door locks only control one side.

2) Prior, both sides windows, would lower slightly when opening the doors, and raise fully when the doors were closed. Now, the driver side window, doesn't do the slight lowering/raising anymore, so it hits the top frame/seals.

3) Now, the car's central lock button, stays with the red light/led on, and won't turn off.

4) The central locking button flashing light diagnostic code (blinks red twice every second, for 10 seconds), which per the Bentley manual, indicates that the "Door Safe Mode" is on (*door safe mode is the locked mode when the door lock or keyless entry transmitter is activated once, the optional alarm system and passenger compartment monitor are activated)

5) Reading the wiring, we realized that now the car thinks that the driver side door is always open. When the door is physically closed, the car's wiring still indicates and thinks that the door is open (or perhaps it was the other way around, and thinks its always closed... I forgot, but either way, it is not registering this properly). Which makes it tough also, since I have a 2002 model, and when the car door is closed and locked, the trunks won't open. Now it is stuck in this "mode".

The only things that were done during this testing, prior to the things getting funky, were the testing of 3 wires. For the door locks, windows, and I believe parking light (I could be wrong on this, but from memory, this was what was just tested for signals).

The car has the OEM keyless entry system module, and is a 2002 model. We have tested, and all fuses are okay.

*I've also tried the window memory resetting tricks, with lowering/raising, and pushing/holding down the buttons, but hasn't resolved the problem). I know that the switch/module is okay though, because when we send the signal to indicate that the doors are closed/opened, the problematic driver side still lowers/raises slightly, as it should, but only when sent the electrical signal manually.

We suspect that perhaps the door latch sensor may have gone out, the one that would send the proper signals that the door is either opened or closed.

Does anyone have any idea what is going on, and how to fix it?

Thanks in advance!

My mistake it is RoW - you are right PET does not ID the kit as RoW but if you look at the individual part numbers they are RoW.

It is for a Tip though.

so it will have a higher spring rate in the rear then? it should be good in a non tip car i would think

the rears are the only different part from the normal row kit

Good question, anyone know the answer to this?

Well its fitted - i have to agree with Caffinetrip completely!

Mine is very loud between 2-3k but both before and after it sounds awesome! That being said with the speed limits being around 60Mph here in Virginia you spend a fair amount of time in that rev range. Bit stressed out about my trip so i am saving final judgement until i get back. However, in case anyone is interested, my thoughts so far with the whole Stebro experience are:

Pro's

Looks very well made

Fantastic sound -2k and plus 3k rpm

Fits very well

Dan at Stebro has been very helpful and patient

Cons

VERY loud between 2-3rpm

The shipping mess up (not Stebro's fault)

Packaging could have been better (not boxed but well covered and wrapped in bubble wrap)

Currys Auto (very helpful), who fitted said that it appeared to have been fitted to another car (clamp marks on the pipes) - Since my original post i have contacted Stebro and they are hopefully going to exchange it once i get back to the US.

Will try and post sound clips on my return, if anyone is interested!

Martin

any updates on the stebro?

You will want to consider a new intake as the Boxster one is undersized for the 3.6, also I would either put a new dual mass flywheel in there or a lightweight one. You may want to replace the front engine mount depending on the mileage on your car. You will need to have the ecu programmed to match the immobilizer in your car.

Todd

Todd, when you say new intake, are you referring to the intake manifold, or the intake, as in intake hose/tube & filter?

chaudanova wrote:

> The muffler modifications, make the sound more agressive, and whether or not

> there is any hp advantage, from users that have done it, negligible if any, some

> report a slight increase, but I don't think anyone has dyno tested.

Below you'll find a dyno chart for a hacked muffler. I'm just curious what they exactly did to it, since it's quite an improvement, especially the torque.

-- peer

Oh wow, so someone did dyno test it... Sweet!

Hi,

Do these mods give you any hp advantage? Or just sound. Does it require removing the exhaust system? Also, is “Porsche Sport Exhaust” a product, company, option, etc? Comprmise Ca. emmisions?

Thanks. PK

Hey PK, the PSE "porsche sports exhaust" is the OEM Porsche Tequipment sport exhaust system, that uses a valve/switch, so you can set the flaps open to the full sport mode, or the quieter/more restrictive regular mode. I don't think this compromises ca emissions, as it is a factory option.

The muffler modifications, make the sound more agressive, and whether or not there is any hp advantage, from users that have done it, negligible if any, some report a slight increase, but I don't think anyone has dyno tested. Mostly done for sound.

Other aftermarket exhaust systems out there.... Most are louder, some louder than others. As far as power increase goes for these after market systems, some lose power, some don't really change it much, and a few out there do increase Hp.

Hope this helps...

- C

If anyone is interested, I have an unused set of these headers that I could offer out for sale. PM me if you're interested.

Panameras, haha... maybe you got the 4-1 idea from... were you by chance, a former honda/acura/import enthusiast? I used to be, and when we thought headers, or I guess in that scene, 'header'... first thoughts to come to mind would be the 4-2-1 header vs. the 4-1 header.

Oh ok, thanks for posting those pictures. Looks like the same exact ones I've got here in my closet. I was debating to put them on or to sell them. As I may be going towards a different route now, but glad to see they worked out so well for you.

Well the Stebro arrived today after a bit of faffing around, not on Stebro's part - they were very helpful. The shipping company had some "issues" yesterday (when they were supposed to deliver it) so i asked them to deliver to my office. Nothing. Got home tonight and there it was!!!!

First impressions? It looks really well made and much lighter/smaller than stock - quite similar to the Borla exhaust i think. I am going to attempt to swap it out myself either this weekend or the next, once i can persuade someone to give me a hand! If not its off to a garage! Ill try and take some pictures tomorrow to post.

Thanks

Martin

:renntech:

Martin, did you get the sport version or the race version?

Great results man! Can you post any pictures of the headers you have?

Caffeinetrip, that's awesome man... sounds like you're off to a great start, and with the quickness too. Haha, at the rate you're going, you'll be done with your future mods list, in like a week... haha

If all you get is the shift in the picture then there is a problem. You need bushings to install the shift in the housing. There are 2 style of bushings Porsche used. Find out and get a picture of the bushings.

TP, Yes, I believe that is everything included right htere in the picture. Seeing as that is the case, is there any way to get bushings onto this, or do you think I should not get this?

Hi Guys, I've searched what I could find of older threads regarding the Porsche Tequipment Short Shift Kit for the 996/986, and from what I've seen, they all come with the new shift-rod and the housing as well. My question is, does this housing differ in any way to the stock shift housing? Moreso, my question is: a guy is selling the Tequipment Short shifter, but all that he has is the metal shift-rod ala B&M style alone without the housing. So, if I use my stock housing, would this be any different than if it had came with the housing?

This is the picture I found from an archived post of the tequipment shifter with the housing:

This is what I will be getting: Shifter without housing.. (by the way, can anyone verify if this is indeed a Porsche Tequipment short shifter?)

Thanks in advance!

Luis,

Sounds great! I didn't know you did the Fabspeed bypass pipes; could you elaborate on that a bit or point me to the post where it was discussed? What did you do for the O2 sensors? I feel another project coming.

J Matta

The main reason why I went for the catbypass pipes was because since I had the car up on jacks, I might as well replace them!!!

The Boxsters (US Market) came with 4 catalic converters!!!! 2 are mounted on the header (which probably restricts the flow like hell!!!!!) and the secondary cats are on a separate pipe that connects the header to the muffler. By removing or replacing the secondary cats there are no emission effects or lights that will come on, these are an additional cat system, so you will be fine. I guess I feel a little more responsive throttle and maybe sound!!!

The only complaint I have about the Fabspeed by-pass pipes is that the driver side pipe does not align perfectly with the muffler once installed. Fabspeed include s an extension pipe in their kit so that you can play with tolerances and get it close but the driver side was OFF by 1/2" (that is a lot!), so during installation I had to bend one of those extension pipes in order to fit the muffler square! I will call them to have them address this issue. My next upgrade will be replacing the headers, but I will do that next year most likely.

LRR

If you've removed the 2ndary cats, what did you do with the O2 sensors that normally go into those? (or do the Fabspeed bypass pipes have an 02 sensor bung?) And also, if you replace the header in the future with an aftermarket header (most of the ones I've seen, other than fabspeed, I think don't have a cat/converter built into the header), then do you think it will have any adverse affects since you'll have no cats at all?

I was reading another post where this was a symptom of the IGNITION switch also.... can anyone chime in between the differences in this problem if it were linked to the ignition switch, versus the headlight switch?

oh wow, this sounds like my current problem. So looks like it was the switch? Does anyone know the price of a new switch?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I installed a new pair of Litronics a few weeks ago, and the first time I turned them on, the lights just flickered as if there wasn't enough power going to them or something. Then turned the switch to off, and the 2nd time, they worked perfectly.

I notice this happens almost every time I turn them on, maybe 9/10 times. And will work perfectly normal the 2nd switch-on attempt.

Today, I turned on the headlight switch, and it would flicker and not fully ignite, and then kept on doing that on subsequent attemps. After giving up for awhile, I came back and tried again and they fired right up perfectly.

(both sides always work in unison, whether it be both doing the flickering, or both operating normally, so I don't think it has to do with a connection/plug issue on a particular side).

Any ideas on what the culprit might be? Maybe headlight switch connector?

Thanks in Advance! :thumbup:

any updates on this? Still very very curious :thumbup:

Loren said:

What the dealer did was to deactivate the airbag on that side.

If you remove the bar you may get an airbag light since the airbag is not functioning on that side.

Just have your dealer or any shop with a PST2 or PIWIS tester change the setting. It is a 5 minute job.

Okay great, thank you Loren! 

Hi, I currently have a Childseat Airbag deactivation bar installed, and would like to have this removed. It was programmed by the dealer when it was installed so that the computer knew it was there, so to speak. Does anyone know for sure, if I remove the deactivation bar, if I have to have the dealer reprogram the ECU again to show that it is no longer there? And if I simply remove the bar physically, will there be some sort of CEL or Airbag light?

Thanks in advance! :thumbup:

Hey people, someone apart of another 986 forum is in the new industry and did this for us during a news segment

http://www.myfoxhouston.com/myfox/pages/Co...ntentId=2728538

lol sweet haha :thumbup:

my 2000 boxster's exhaust is having sounds come from it that sound like small pieces of metal rattling around inside, it is loud enough sounding when at idle I can even hear it when at a redlight with windows or top down with radio off, thought about taking exhaust off this weekend and turning it on its side to see if anything falls out, has anybody heard of this before, could a baffle broke inside? Any links or instructions for removing the exhaust would help. Also after the car is turned off sounds come from the exhaust area like cracking and pinging noises of it cooling down that last about 5 min. or so is this common for a boxster? :unsure:

Old post revived, but did you ever find the answer to this problem?