DiscobayJoe

Tips hat to Loren:     Running 245/35/19's in the front, slight rub on outside edge both front and rear:

Swapping for 235/35/19's tomorrow.

I also noticed over a really large whoop going too fast in a parking lot that the rear 305's rub too (can't see any rub marks tho, it was real minor).      Based on my experience I would say the maximum size for 19's on a 996  Narrow Body is 235/35/19 and 295/30/19 on 8.5's front 11's rear. 

Where would it be rubbing?   Inner Fender Wall to the rear edge of the tire or outer fender on the front edge?

What Do you feel is the biggest tire I can wedge in the front of an otherwise stock C2?     I don't rub at all with 225/35/19's.    I think they are 8.5's. 

I run 19's.   Just went to 305/30/19's RE11's in the Rear and it understeers like mad with 225's in the front.    Switching To 245/35/19 in the front this weekend! 

Here's my old setup with 225/35/19 & 285/35/19

Good News!   I was able to buy a cigarette lighter jump pack and it barely provided enough juice to light up the dash and let me open the hood without any dis-assembly

I left a trickle charger on it for 2 days.   After the alarm runs for 2 cycles of 3 minutes the alarm stops.      It still doesn't have enough juice to let me open the hood. 

Can you get to the hood manual release without destroying anything?

problem is my batterymindr won't charge as it doesn't detect any voltage (it actually says polarity reversal) and when I hook up a battery to jump it the alarm just goes off never ending.   

Hey, I'm back!      My gremlin went away for awhile, but now it's back with a vengeance.      The car has been parked since the new year, so I decided to fire it up and stir the oil, etc.        The car was completely dead.   Completely.      So I took and hooked a battery up to the fuse panel jumper and door post and the alarm goes off.   Problem is that neither key in the door or ignition will stop the alarm.    The hood openers don't pop and I get nothing on the dash, just an alarm!

Suggestions?

I've got a 2002 996 cab that has been pretty low maintenance.    I'm 2nd owner and it has about 75K miles, about half of which were logged by me. 

With only about 6K miles per year average, It didn't suprise me 2 weeks ago when I had a weak battery (too weak to start).    I swapped it out for a new one from AutoZone, drove it twice, and now 2 weeks later the car is DOA, no power whatsoever.  

The only problem I'm aware of is about 10K miles ago the keyless entry quit working, so i've had to lock/unlock manually.    The power locks work from inside, just not from the remote. 

It was stored for the last 2 weeks in the garage with the doors locked and top down. 

Any idea where to begin finding the drain?    Except for the wheels and tires, it's 100% stock.

<SHAME> I have a 2002 Carrera 2 Cab that I don't drive nearly as much as I should </SHAME>

When taking it out for a spin (first time out of the garage all year), I noticed that the oil pressure seemed quite high. It normally starts off high and comes down into the 2-3 range, but I found that unless I was coasting it was pegging the needle at 5. After turning off the engine and poking around, I notice the gauge will register just over 1 with the key on but without the motor running, that makes me feel a bit better, as i'm guessing it's the gauge, wiring, or sender and not something more difficult

I found what i'm pretty sure is the oil pressure sender (top right of motor, two wires facing up, kind of hard to reach behind A/C lines) and they both seem secure.

Is there a process that can confirm a bad sender?

Is this Niello Porsche?

Yes, Niello. They referenced verbally that it was a dual-mass flywheel as part of the logic for being replaced. The write up says "Note: found the clutch worn (Recommend replacing $3125.08).

They also said I needed to replace the rotors because my front brakes were at 2MM and quoted just shy of $800 for a front-end brakejob.

I'm not a big fan of trying to "fix" things (like turning rotors if/when they are noticably warped) as i've been more satisfied swapping instead; however, I also don't see a reason to change pricey parts "just because".

Sounds like they are being a bit liberal with their reccomendations.

I just did this today for $1150 at the Sacramento Dealer. This was the 60K service, Plus Brake Fluid change. It included stuff like Plugs, Filters, and Belt along with a thorough inspection. Altho their service was excellent, I don't plan on doing this again at a dealer. I had 3 more days on a 3rd party warranty and figured they'd give my new baby the best once-over.

Comments on this anyone?

I didn't have my car PPI'd when I bought it used; However I was given a 3 month drivetrain warranty (which expires at the end of this week). I decided to have my 60K service done at the local dealer (Sacramento, CA.... not where I bought the car). The good news is that they didn't find anything but wear items....... the bad is that my clutch near the end of it's life.

I was quoted ~$3200 for the clutch replacement. I was told it was pricey because they swap the clutch & flywheel each time.

Is this typical? If so, is this price reasonable? As a reference can get the entire transmission replaced in my honda for less (don't ask me how I know)!

As a side note, is there an aftermarket clutch that's the hot ticket? 2002 C2 Cab, ~60K miles.

Halfway on my commute home it came off wait to code and 4374 worked! Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

And 4375. Then you'll probably be locked out for a while.

Any idea how long it locks things out for after the second set of bad attempts?

When the first code didnt' work this morning, I tried just puntching buttons. It locked for about a minute at WAIT and then came back. I kept pressing and got into a WAIT which its been on now for about 14 hours. I go back outside and check it every couple of hours but still WAIT... I tried disconnecting the battery for a bit, no change. I'm getting impatient as I want to try the suggestions above. :)

Try 4376

It Didnt Work :(

From another post I went into the TP menu and confirmed the Serial number; However the 4-digit number was different than the external sticker:

4462

25013170

24/99

00

Does this change anything?

Hey Guys,

Me Too! :)

Here's another one to test out your theory:

Cdr 220

Be6625

25013170

From my previous threads, I yanked the radio in my 996 to put in a Mac Mini Carputer and don't have the code to go back. I'm caught in a spot where i've been too busy to move forward. I've had no music for about a month!

Thanks,

-Joe

I'm using the same power supply on my 996 MacMini install project. I'm going to put it under the front hood where the original CD Changer was. I'm going to grab switched power from the original stereo harness. I'm going to grab power straight off the battery as it's a pretty beefy supply. I'm not using a pulsed input.

Where do you plan on putting your Mac Mini? I wanted to use the glovebox but the wiring harness proved too be too bulky. It's going under the hood too.

My project has been stalled for a few weeks due to work & travel, but I'll be picking it up again soon.

Here's my worklog:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=92248

I haven't yanked the factory sub to look at it yet. I have some Damplifier on the way (Dynamat-like material) and plan on performing a little surgury.

Hopefully those of you who have opened yours up can help me with a few questions:

What size is the actual driver (subwoofer)?

The factory amp appears to use two sets of cables for the sub. Is it a dual voice-coil driver?

Is there anything inside the sub cabinet other than the port and the speaker (passive crossover,etc)?

Any pictures?

Thanks,

-Joe

I picked up my 996 in December and yanked the factory stereo before paying much attention to the way it behaved.

I found that the factory amp would not work with the head unit I plan on installing (actually, its a computer) beause the orignal amp takes high-level inputs (vs Line Level).

I spent some time today isolating the wiring from under the Hood to the Factory speakers. The thick cables going into the primary amp feed the front dash & door speakers independently (4 sets of wires). A thinner set of blue/brown cables seems to feed both rear speakers in parallel. In a 2002 w/Bose, did the rear speakers really have no balance? I'm too far in to try and put it back to stock for a test.

I think i'm going to end up pulling new cabling to everything but the door speakers.

Today I yanked the factory CDC-3 in my 2002 (pre MOST) 996 C2 Cab

Check out this picture:

The Outer two connectors are on a circuit board removed from an Alpine/sirius Unit (I converted it to USB). The Cable in between is from the back of the Porsche/Becker Changer.

While i would doubt they actually talk the same protocol (I believe AI-Net can carry the audio without needing the seperate RCA's that the changer uses), it appears you could hack in an alpine head unit and put alpine accessories under the Hood/Trunk (whatever you guys call it!) and use the factory wiring. You'd need to spend some quaility time building a custom cable with an AI-Net & Metra 70-1787 kit (which fits the factory harness), but i'd bet you could prevent having to puncture the firewall!.

I haven't tried this as I'm building a custom car computer, but I figured there might be someone out there wanting to go Alpine......

-Joe

DiscobayJoe - *PLEASE* take a lot of pics and do a d.i.y. Very interesting project!

When it's all done, I'll recap here with the Porsche specific details.

Here's a link to my worklog with all the Geeky computer info as well:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=92248

I just ordered the replacement part shown above but have everything but the plate still installed.

What is the correct way to Remove the old assembly?

I pulled on it a bit but it doesn't seem like it just pulls out. I don't want to break the assembly.

2002 C2 Cab w/BiXeon

What are you trying to do? Are you trying to get ipod connected to your HU? If so, Becker sells a cheap kit that uses the CDC input. You'll lose your CDC usage but get IPOD input instead.

I am going to install a Mac Mini running Windows XP as a InfoTainment system. Touchscreen Nav / Sirius / DVD / .MP3 / Divx and BlueTooth HandsFree support.

I was hoping to NOT touch the factory wiring, amp, or speakers, but it looks like its all going to go.

Right now i'm fabricating the 8" touchscreen into the dash. I'll post pictures when i'm done.

Ok, So I just picked up the Metra 70-1787 VW/AUDI Kit that appears to be a perfect match for Becker Systems w/Bose....

However, when looking at the wiring in my car (2002 C2 Cab CDR-220 / CDC-3 w/Bose) the "3rd" input connector has I/O for my changer but NOTHING to the pins that wire to line-level input. The Pins on the Metra connector go to nothing on the factory harness (and vice versa!)

Does the factory bose system really use Speaker-Level inputs to the amp?

Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for a 2002 w/Bose?

I was planning on NOT changing out the factory amp, but at this rate I'll be swapping it out as well.