johnj.moran

Yes, it would be a straight swap.

No programming required.

Would a CDC-3 work in place of a CDC-4 or is it incompatible?

I have a CDC-3 that is in good working order.

Here is what I recommend:

1. Wash car with dish soap (I use dawn)

2. Clay bar with lots of lubricant (soap or QD spray)

3. Poorboys SSR2.5 Poorboys with Porter cable (set speed to 1.5 to spread, then 5.5 to remove swirls...always in an up/down/side-to-side motion)

4. Apply whatever wax/polymer you want....I would stongly recommend Zaino AIO, then Zaino Z-5 Pro....but don't want to get into a detailing argument

I was going to give similar suggestions. I have used Meguiars Smooth Surface Clay kit with the Meguiars Quick Detailer Spray as the lubricant. I also have the Porter Calble 6" Orbital Polisher and have found that with the correct pads, you will not damage your paint (assuming you use light pressure and keep the pad evenly on the surface).

Meguiars.com is a good resource with a knowledge base that gives suggestions for just about any situation.

According to Meguiars reps (you can call them to get personalized suggestions), it is important to use the clay bar with detailer spray/lubricant, then swirl remover, then apply Polish, and finally wax. The Polish supposedly provides important mosturizers/"nutrients" (for lack of a better term), to the paint. The wax then seals and protects against environmental contaminants.

The only question I have is if the dish soap mentioned in Step 1 is used to remove old layers of wax, etc. I would think that after detailing a car with clay bar, polish and wax, you'd want to use a milder car wash soap that is especially designed to not cut the wax off.

As far as the frequency of the clay bar, polish and wax routine goes, you can tell after washing and drying your car if there is a need to re-detail the car by lightly dragging the tips of your fingers across the just cleaned paint surface. If it feels ultra smooth and silky, then no need to re-detail. If it feels a bit rough and/or dry and tacky, then it's time.

Hi, my first post in this forum. I have just purchased my first P-car, it's 1999 911 Cab with Tiptronic, can I get some opinions on what are the best aluminum pedals for this model, Thanks Jim

Congrats and welcome! I have a 1999 C4 Cab with Tiptronic (purchased 13 months ago) which has been perfect since I bought it. Renntech.org is a fantastic resource.

I don't have any info for you on aluminum pedals however.

John

Thanks John - will give it a try.

In case you haven't made the repair yet, here's all I can remember: The instructions were not extensive and basically instructed the installer to cut the circular part (about 90-120 degrees) so the part can fit around the pin. I suppose this is to avoid having to completely dismantle the hook that latches the convertible to the windshield. So, I used an exacto knife and cut the circular part where I thought it would easiest go around the pin. I had to push the top close button until the hook started to come out and then leave the top in a partially closed/open state. I hurried to get Goop into the new plastic part and place it over the metal hook, because I have read that it's not too good to leave the top semi-open/closed. Once the part was in place I closed the top completely and let it dry for six hours or so. I then checked the operation of the convertible top, which worked perfectly. That about all I can remember. Hope it helps.

996.561.787.00.01C Black Cap -- US List $17.63

I am sure the folks at Sunset imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) can get you a better price.

Loren - thanks for the quick response. Are there any hidden traps/secrets replacing it?

I used Goop Household Adhesive and Sealant to glue the part to the metal hook. The instructions that came with the part instructed the use of adhesive instead of glue. I believe that adhesive is more rubbery, and glue would be too brittle in this applicaiton.

It was an easy repair that took a total of 15 minutes max. I used an exacto knife to cut the new part so it would go around the pin.

I also have not contributed because I don't use Paypal. I would like to contribute by check if at all possible.

I agree that getting in and driving easy until both the water temp and oil pressure gauge get to a warmed up status is best. I find that the oil is near full operating temperature when the gauge reads about half way between 1 and 2 at idle. The closer to 1 the more fully warmed up the engine oil is.

I have a 2000 C2 coupe tiptronic. I have had the car since mid-June so it is fairly new to me and it is my daily driver. My question is related to the Tip shifting. I usually drive in automatic mode and don't accelerate very hard away from stops. I have noticed that in the shift between 4 and 5 there is an engine rev, almost like a downshift, just before it goes into 5th gear. I am not sure that there is an actual downshift but the RPMs do increase about 500 or so and then drops sometime right around the shift to 5th. Could this be a normal shift program? Perhaps this is part of the electronic throttle reving the engine just prior to the shift. Anyone out there have an idea? I have no CELs. I just rolled past 80k miles.

Thanks

I recall reading about this issue on this web-site. Keep searching the postings. Someone that sounded quite knowlegable said this is normal for the tip... something about the nature of the automatic transmission in these cars (viscous this or that, I'm not technical)

Another tiptronic driver suggested not being so easy on the throttle, and you won't get that sudden increase in revs (just a bit more gas than you are currently giving it).

And finally, I recall that another tiptronic driver said that he uses the manual mode instead, and the issue obviously doesn't take place in manual mode.

Chuck,

I already ordered the Porsche fire extinguisher holder from the dealer, $17 or so. will be installing it this weekend with a new extinguisher. Lesson learned from you.

Would you post the part number for the extinguisher holder and also a web link to the proper size Halon extinguisher that you plan on ordering? That would make it that much easier to go ahead and get this done. Sounds like something everyone should have. Thanks.

I have a 1999 C4 Cab Tip (which has Egas and memory seats) and the passenger side mirror tilts down when I place the car in reverse. I would like to turn off the tilt down feature. When I set my preferred seat setting I had the car in Park.

Does anyone know how to turn off the tilt down feature for this car?

Thanks,

Coming from a 2000 C4 with a 6spd to a 2004 C4S tip, I was a little skeptical. The car I bought recently was in excellent condition and I wanted my wife to be able to drive the car, so I bought it with a tiptronic. It has absolutely surprised me as to how fun and quick this is to drive. I have driven a manual for 3 years and I can tell you, the tip is fantastic to drive. What it might give up at launch, it makes up for as you get going because downshifting an upshifting is so fast and effortless. Any other tip drivers out there? What has your experience been?

My 2002 C2 tip is not that impressive. While I think the potential is there with some software tweaking, my experience is it's very slow to change gears. I hit the button and there is a 1/4 to 1/2 second delay, and the engage is a slow-fade-in instead of a firm gear change. Feel like this trans was made for a old-folks 'sport' luxury sedan.

as a matter of fact, I can watch the gear shift indicator go to the next gear... and then after a delay the gear changes. Overall, I am quite bummed with the operation of it.

Some of you say it's great - maybe mine is just not working right?

I think the smoothness of the transmission has you fooled into thinking it's got an old-folks luxury sedan feel. It doesn't have the jerky feel that a manual has. As for the lag of 1/4 to 1/2 second, I think you're correct and that's normal. I'm not so sure a person could change from 1st to 2nd gear using a manual in less than a 1/2 second (from the time you first make contact with the clutch pedal to the time you finish the gear change).

Henry does it again. 6794 Graystone Lane, San Jose.

We start at 9:30 am, and end 3 hours later. No messy projects. A PST2 clone will be there. Loren and MMD will be there in spirit.

As in the past, this will not be limited to Boxstirs.

Need a list of projects so we can fit them into the 3 hour time slot. Jeff

Thanks for the address. I e-mailed you a month or so ago regarding an amberectomy for the litronics on my '99 C4 Cab. I haven't gotten the Philips bulbs, but I suppose that shouldn't stop me. Looking forward to meeting everyone.

John

I'm not an car insurance or body shop expert by any means, but it seems that a $30,000+ vehicle has a higher threshold of damage and repair costs before it can be called totalled, as compared to a $2000 Honda Civic. Can't this vehicle be repaired by a good body shop?

What has your insurance company said regarding the newly installed engine? Will they give you extra above Kelley Blue Book?

What happened to you could happen to any one of us. It's a real shame.

Update: I got the part from Sunset Imports for a total of $19 including shipping. I cut the part as shown in the TSB and used adhesive, a more flexible type of glue, as specified in the TSB. The total time to remove the broken part and install the new part was 15 minutes.

Thanks everyone for your help

I also paid ~$28 for mine. Retarded- for a $ .12 piece. There is just nothing special about it, it doesn't even say Porsche ;)

Installation is straight forward. I just used cheap superglue and have not had any problems to date.

Thanks for the information on the ease of installation. I'm happy that it's an easy fix that won't require help from the stealership.

I just ordered the part from Sunset Imports for $12 plus shipping of $3. No CA tax. Also, I asked them to print out the TSB that discusses the fix, and they were very helpful and printed out an additional TSB that was more up to date. Great company to deal with.

Replacement of the hook cover is really easy. If you look at the picture above of the hook, the two arrows point to where you want to put glue. The area at the top where it shows a 90 degree arc is where you cut the new piece so you can install it on your latch.

I dont know however if this will replace your original problem.

Thanks for the info. What kind of glue would you suggest?

I called Stevens Creek Porsche (San Jose, CA) for the cost of the latch cover..... $28 plus tax. I am going to call Sunset Imports out of Oregon to get a lower price. I have found their prices to be about 33% to 50% lower, and no Ca sales tax. It's not a big amount but I like to give the business to those that are providing the best prices. I've ordered quite a bit from Sunset Imports and they are very professional, and deliver within 2-3 days.

Thanks again.

Mine were fine and didn't need replacing. You could probably buy them separate or have them do it for you.

I live in San Jose, CA. Can you provide me the name and phone number of the company that replaced your top? I am noticing a wear point and I'd like them to take a look to see if an adjustment can be made before it wears through.

I really appreciate it.

John

996.561.787.00.01C Cover cap

I haven't tried to replace one - perhaps someone else here has and can help.

I'll order the part and see if it's self-explanatory.

Thanks so much. I'm going to go to Pay Pal and set up an account finally, so I can contribute to the site. It's a great resource.

If you car has the new latch covers and the unmodified hooks then I doubt it will close right. Or you may need the new latch covers...

Here is the mod to the latch - there is more detail in the TSB.

Hi Loren,

The latch cover on my 1999 C4 Cab flew off when I was closing the top. Not sure if the microswitch is loose and repeated movement of the latch broke the cover, or if the cover just broke and now the microswith is not being fully engaged. Rear windows won't go up unless I slide a small piece of plastic to push the microswitch.

Do you have a part number for the latch cover for the Cabriolet top? Does it just snap on?

Any help is really appreciated.

John

I spoke to Henry today and he said he would amberectomy your headlights. Henry had done at least 2 sets that I know of.

Hi,

I really like the look of the car without the amber lights. I have Litronics (99 C4 Cab). Where does Henry live? San Jose?

I need an Amberectomy!

John

How much does it cost for the H & R springs? (parts) US dollars

How much for installation?

Thanks

I wouldn't worry about making changes due to potential problems that MAY arise. It would cost just as much for you to change from 18s to 17s as it would to replace a wheel if one were to get damaged. And the aero kit may get damaged but I think getting rid of it just because potential damage could occur is a costly move. If it gets damaged, them maybe you can modify the aero kit to prevent future damage.

I too have gone to the buyer's bank and witnessed the cashier's check being issued from the buyer's bank. It's a good idea to get a copy of the buyer's driver's license. When I sold a less expensive car, I was completely comfortable with this. I turned over the car, title and keys right away at the bank.

When I sold my 2003 BMW, the buyer was obtaining financing from a local credit union. I had to sign the title over to the local credit union and received a check directly from the local credit union. I wasn't concerned at all, even though it was a $30,000 transaction. I would imagine that quite a few buyers of a 1992 Carrera 4 would be financing, hopefully locally.

When I sold my Nissan 300ZX Turbo, the buyer was financing with a military credit union. He had a check that he would make payable to me and fill in the amount. This made me very nervous but I trusted the buyer. So, I wrote up an agreement describing the transaction in great detail. The agreement described the car, the sale price, and that I would not turn over the car, title or keys until the check cleared and funds could be completey verified in my account by my bank. I believe I also was able to confirm that the check cleared the credit union that was financing the car. The buyer required that I agree to park the car, noting the mileage, and that the car would not be driven under any circumstances. I also wrote into the agreement that the car was being sold as is and there was no warranty whatsoever, etc. The buyer was a bit impatient as it took about 7 days for the funds to clear, but he held up ok. The deal worked out just fine.

I have never felt nervous about going out on a test drive with the people that came to see my cars for sale. I guess I have been lucky. Perhaps a good idea might be to ask the potential buyer to bring a copy of their driver's license with them to the test drive. Have a friend meet up with you and the potential buyer at a large parking lot. Have the buyer view the car, and then if a test drive is in order, have the potential buyer hand the copy of the driver's license to your friend who will stay behind and wait for you to return. Your friend could even follow you in his car. I would think this would discourage a person from doing anything untoward. Bottom line, if you don't have a good feeling, don't go out on the drive.

Before I wash my Cab, I test the drains by pouring a small amount of water from a plastic bottle into the drain holes. I then look under the car to see if water is coming out of the end points of the drain lines. Test both sides. Cheap insurance to avoid a serious and costly problem.

I drive the car 6 miles to work and back for a total of about 12 miles. Start-up uses quite a bit of fuel. If all I do is drive the car to work and back, I get about 15 mpg, with two full throttle bursts per day (why else have the car?). Those that quote higher numbers for mixed driving are driving the car further distances and for longer stretches between stops. I live in the city and come to a complete standstill at least three to four times on the way to work which reduces fuel economy. I have a 5000 lb. Dodge Durango SUV with 335 horsepower that get the same mileage. Remember, in 1999, when my Porsche was built, oil was $11 per barrel, now it's $65. Porsche didn't really care about fuel economy. I'm sure that is changing.

2003 C2 - 18k miles

Only problems was a bad amp. & both idler pulleys replaced under warranty.

I replaced the battery, but other than that no problems.

New rear tires at 17k.

I just started to drive it daily to work so the miles will increase dramatically.

No leaks, no scuffs, immaculate car.

1999 C4 Cab Tip 40k miles. The original owner used to drive it every two to four weeks, not good for a car in my opinion. It ran quite well when I bought it, but even better when I drove it 3 to 4 times per week. I really think it's good to drive a car like this at least every other day, if possible. Coolant Tank cracked, rear plastic window became hazy and was replaced, and that's it for problems since new. No RMS leaks, or leaks of any kind, great car. Still learning how to master the Tiptronic. Driving stick is way easier believe it or not (with TIP when you turn the steering wheel 180 degrees in a sharp turn, the "plus" and "neg" shift buttons are opposite to normal, and taking eyes of road with 200 yard drops off side of road is not a good idea). I'll figure it out eventually, but anyone that says Tip is easy to drive, hasn't driven one. Stick is easier (I drove stick on every sports car prior to this one).