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Reborn996

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Posts posted by Reborn996

  1. Thanks Loren, I am waiting to see if the codes come back at this point since it seems to drive nice. I do know about the coil packs and will probably just replace them all for piece of mind (not much money and worth doing with the spark plugs anyways).

    Not sure on the CAN issue, what would be a symptom of an issue based on that code?

    Thankfully, I did get an extended warranty on this when I bought it just in case. :)

    David

    P0021 Inlet Camshaft Position in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 - Above/Below Limit

    Possible cause of fault

    - Timing set incorrectly

    - Chain extended

    - Camshaft adjuster loose

    - Rotor of inlet camshaft sensor in incorrect position

    - Inlet camshaft sensor not installed correctly

    P0351 Bar ignition module on cylinder 1

    Possible cause of fault

    The wiring might contain the following faults:

    - Open circuit in signal wire

    - Short circuit to B+ in signal wire

    - Short circuit to ground in signal wire

    - Short circuit to B+ in ground lead

    - Open circuit in ground lead

    - Open circuit in power supply line

    - Short circuit to ground in power supply line

    - Incorrect assignment of ground lead and positive lead

    Check the ignition coils on each cylinder - these changed (because of problems) on a TSB. If your car has no warranty then you will have to pay for them.

    The correct new part number is: 948.602.104.05 -- US MSRP $18.21 each

    Fault code 0470 CAN comfort in single-wire operation

    Possible cause of fault

    - Open circuit in CAN comfort (high)

    - Open circuit in CAN comfort (low)

    - Electrical fault on CAN comfort

  2. Okay, just picked up a 2004 Cayenne TT and used my durametric software to check it out...came up with P0021 and P0351 for the DME and 470 for the Instrument Cluster. I cleared them and they did not come back right away. Just wanted to see what these were and what could be wrong. Also, I sometimes get a Air Suspension warning when I start the car but it seems to be okay and I did not see any other fault codes listed for any other modules other than the above. Is that a big deal?

    David

  3. I thought about brake pads as well... but applying the brakes makes no change in sound. It is more the throttle actuation that seems to make it come and go which is weird. I was thinking some suspension bushing might be it but not sure. Even thought about the exhaust system couplings since the engine movement under load might cause it to go away under throttle like that.

    What about wheel bearings? Would they behave this way if they were going bad?

    David

    Sounds like brake pads or glazing on the rear rotors. I would recommend some emery paper (sand paper for metal) fine grid, and do some light hand sanding of the rear rotors, sand radially (from hub to edge). Do it softly first, spin the wheel to check, do it again. If it is glazing, a few repeat steps will remove or significantly reduce the noise. Check your pads too, make sure they are good.

    Another potential is the heat shield over the rotor, which tend to bend and come in contact with the rotor. But that typically happens after a hot track day with heavy braking. If that is the case, I solve that with a long flat screwdriver, push on the shield to it is not in contact with the rotor.

  4. Okay, I have had a weird pulsing squeek sound coming from the rear of my car for a few weeks now... unfortunately I cannot find it without the car moving, so I wanted to run the symptoms by you fine folks to see if you can help.

    The sound is wheel speed dependent and coming from the rear (not sure which side but sounds like drivers), is not effected by braking or steering, goes with wheel rotation and not engine rpm (present in all gears), and goes away when under throttle. It is most noticeable when coasting or under deceleration... the minute I hit the gas it goes away. It is not always present but is about 75% of the time. I have PSS9 coilovers but have had them for many months with no issues. Any ideas on what to look for?

    My troubleshooting idea on this was to lift the rear of the car and put the rear suspension on jackstands to keep it under load... then start the car (carefully of course) and see if I can hear anything with it in gear.

    Anyways, the sound is driving my nuts so any help is appreciated!

    David

  5. Thanks Loren, looks like I will need to use the newer supports too... hmm, makes me think I should just get the NR Auto polyurethane bumper and skip the bumperettes altogether. :lol:

    David

    Those are not TT style bummperettes.

    Those alook like MY02 and newer Carrera bumperettes. Your bumper would need the slots and the support bracket (that holds them in place) to use these bumperettes.

    post-1-1185841124.png

  6. Okay, been trying to work with my local Porsche dealer on getting the correct bumperettes for my turbo look rear bumper. The stock ones form my 99 bumper do not fit it well. We ordered a set of twin turbo 2001 bumperettes but they were the same as my 99. All of the bumperettes in the dealer showroom all looked the same as my 99!

    Then at the work on car day we had here in San Jose I saw another NB C2 with a turbo look bumper and the correct bumperettes... but he bought the car that way and had no idea that type they were. I have included pics, can anyone tell me the part number for this style? Thanks, David

    :renntech:

    post-16068-1185839339_thumb.jpg

    post-16068-1185839358_thumb.jpg

  7. Okay, at this weekends Santana Row meet I saw a 2000 911 C2 Cab with the factory aero kit. In place of the normal third brake light there was a plastic panel with the words "Porsche" on it. When talking to the owner he said the car came that way. The wing he had was the non-adjustable Taco style with a built in third brake light.

    Since I am also using a fixed mount GT2 style wing I am not using the factory third brake light... I would like to replace it with this replacement panel. Does anyone have a part number for this part? My local Porsche dealer did not even know how to look up the wiring harness for fixed mount spoilers! :rolleyes:

    Thanks, David

  8. I recently had this type of symptom with my 1999 (it has traction control rather than PSM). It turned out during my recent steering rack install that I had broken a wire for one of the speed sensors for the ABS system. If you can run a diagnostic on the ABS system it should tell you which wheel it might be...

    David

    I have a 2001 C4 CAB w/Tip that has the PSM and ABS lights that stay ON. The PSM switch light comes on before starting engine but doesn't do anything once engine is running.

    Problem started after a weak battery was charged. Everything else seems to work fine and car appears to run OK.

    Other posts point to MAF but this seems like a strange coincedance that it started after I charged the battery. Could it be as simple as a blown fuse ? Some posts indicate brake light switch could be it but brake lights work fine.

    Let me know if you know of other things to try.

  9. I am definately up for this.... I have already had many a work on car day rebuilding my current Porsche and previously when I was building up my Audi A4. I can also host as well as I have most tools, two jacks, four jack stands, a compressor with air tools, service manual on CD for my 1999 911, etc... Let me know if anything like this comes up.

    P.S. I am in Tracy if that matters.

    David

    I've been talking to some of the guys in the 928/951 meetups and they expressed an interest in organizing some Work On Your Car Days (WOYCD) in the Rosevile, Rocklin, Sacramento, El Dorado Hills, Elk Grove areas. I've also talked to a couple of the 996 guys and they'd be interested too. I had lunch with Loren today and we talked about what it might take to put something like this together. Loren has done this sort of thing before, so he'd be the one to talk about what would be required...but some of my thoughts are this:

    It would require a "volunteer garage" as a central point for folks to assemble at. There would have to be the appropriate tools on hand. All projects would have to employ the best safety procedures...jack stands, hydraulic jacks, etc.The WOYCD projects would have to be those that could be done within a reasonable amount of time and could include such tasks as:

    Install a Short Shift Kit

    Clean out the front radiators by removing the front bumper

    R and R a coolant tank

    Clean up the MAF and sensors or throttle body

    Loren can run his laptop software against the DME to see what codes have been thrown/reset codes etc.

    Brake job

    Install a new set of mufflers

    Install other mods...

    Tasks such as oil changes or radiator flushes would have to have appropriate containers brought by the individual for the person to take the oil or coolant away from the location and dispose of himself. Participants would have to help clean up after the session.

    Some folks may just want to show up to shoot the breeze...or watch and see how various tasks are done. I know that one of my main problems is a lack of confidence in my ability to do what amounts to some relatively simple jobs. I also watched Loren take out my wheel well lining when we replaced the fuel door actuator (Loren will be putting out a DIY on this with picrtures)....and to me it was like watching a brain surgeon operate with a sledge hammer. It's painful to watch....but most of the guys who might want to work on their cars are WAY TOO FASTIDIOUS about tearing into them. I have a tendency to ***** foot around a project that needs a strong hand and a fast approach. Some of this is not for the faint of heart :)

    At any rate....let's throw this subject out there and see who responds and what sort of interst there is. So that we can get a better idea of interest levels....be sure to include what sort of car you've got, what city you live in, and what sort of task you'd like to take on. Due to time constraints, the WOYCD's are usually held on a weekend.

    I hope this starts helps to start us on some fun days where we can meet fellow P-car owners who have a passion for these cars and like to work on them, or just get together to talk about mods. It will also help to form an ad-hoc group of guys who can call each other when looking for local help on a project or special tool they might need.

    Regards, Chuck

  10. Shoot, so it may still be under the battery... guess I will just have to start tearing the car apart and looking for this thing. ;)

    David

    Picture of the top of the gas tank next to the sending unit on my 1997 Boxster. Battery tray removed for the picture.

    No sensor there - but I have a 1997 and I don't think 1997 had this sensor.

    But if the part you need to replace is #5 in the diagram I do not think it would not be under the battery tray.

  11. Okay, but it appears the sensor is more towards the gas tank than the evap canister or fuel filler... that is why I think it may be near the battery tray area. Hmm... you would figure Porsche would know how to install their own sensor! ;)

    Is there anything in the service manual about this sensor?

    David

    Pull off the wheelwell liner on the front right and you'll see the evap cannister beneath the gas filler tube.
  12. Well, I have done a full stereo replacement including door and dash speakers. I used the Focal speakers that Rod at Car Audio Innovations recommended. It takes a little work to get them to fit into the odd mountings Porsche uses but they sound great! I am also using a custom built sub box with two JL Audio 8" subs that go behind the rear seats. Very clean install and except for the in-dash Nav unit it looks mostly stock. Rod can source the Focal speakers for you if you want them.

    David

    I am looking to upgrade the factory speakers in my 996 and would like opinions on speakers members have installed. Anything to look out for? Did you use a local installer?

    Thanks in advance...

    Do you have door speakers or not?

  13. Okay, don't shoot me... but this is the same drawing I got from Porsche when I picked up the part... but it does not really show me where the sensor is in relation to the car itself. They thought it might be in the area of the battery but their techs have not done a replacement of this part before so they could not verify. Is there any better picture or service procedure that shows the replacement process better? Sorry to be such a nitpicker on this... ;) :renntech:

    David

    name='Loren' date='Jun 18 2007, 12:40 PM' post='71882']

    MY99 Fuel Tank Ventilation System

    post-1-1182195549_thumb.png

    1 - EVAP canister purge valve

    2 - EVAP canister

    3 - Purge air

    4 - Tank

    5 - Tank pressure sensor

    6 - Shutoff valve

    7 - Operating purge valve

    8 - To intake manifold

    9 - Vacuum control valve

  14. Aha! There is a trick to it.... Thanks for the tip, I knew about the advanced search but not about the + - part.

    David

    Go to advanced search and click on the link "Advanced Usage Help". (i.e. +apple -juice --find posts with 'apple' but not 'juice'; "Some Words" --Find posts with the phrase 'some words of wisdom', 'some words' but not 'some noise words')

    This + and - as well as the quotes procedure is used by Google and most all the major search engines.

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