ubergeek

Got it. I had to take a look at it again and that cable I was referring to is the emergency release cable. The other cable is still there but somehow the latch does not catch the hook. Something to do with misalignment or something.

Thank you Loren.

I just realized the engine compartment release cable is broken when I couldnt shut the lid closed.

Upon inspection, I found the cable coming from the driver side hung loose meaning it is broken somewhere between the latch and the locking mechanism.

Is this a common problem?

Has anyone tried to repair this?

It is a 1999 996 with a manual latch.

Thank you.

Thanks. Mine is 99, C2 with 25K miles.

Is this DYI or should I take it to a dealer? Any idea what to expect them to charge in terms of hours?

Thx.

I saw a tiny spot of oil under the passenger side of the car.

Visually I see where the oil drips. What's this and can someone guess what's causing the leak?

I will take it to the shop soon.

My best guess is that you're oozing from this gasket, and it's running down and pooling on the bottom there. I'm embarrassed to admit, I don't know what that piece is. I bought a Car Expert 996 manual on CD-Rom from www.autorepairinfo.org because I can't seem to find any printed 996 manuals, but the stupid thing doesn't even have a motor diagram.

Lots of older vehicles ooze like that from their head cover gaskets. Keep an eye on your oil level. You're probably ok if it's not making a pool on the driveway.

I found the following post that seems to be somewhat related. However, there is no clear explanation of its cause of how to fix.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=OIL+LEAK

I saw a tiny spot of oil under the passenger side of the car.

Visually I see where the oil drips. What's this and can someone guess what's causing the leak?

I will take it to the shop soon.

I just went ahead and took the emissino test. It passed.

CAT = Not ready.

According to WA law, as long as you no more than 2 "NOT READY" and no CEL, you can pass.

As for why CAT is not ready, who knows? I will keep driving and see what happens.

Yup.

There is fault code stored at all. I used to get CEL w/1123 but after replacing the bellow tube and cleaning MAF sensor, I am not getting CEL anymore.

Also, no more P1123/1125 either. I am just waiting for CAT test to run.....

Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

Have you checked for fault codes?

If it still is not in a "Ready" state then something is still wrong.

Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

IIRC, CAT test runs per trip but somehow even after 120 miles and 10 trips, OBD shows CAT test has not run.

Is this normal? What do I have to do to run CAT test?

I've cleared the CEL after cleaning MAF and replacing the bellow tube so that I can get the emission test done.

Since CAT is shown "not run", I can't get the emission test completed yet.

Thx.

Keep resurrecting the old thread . (recycling is a good thing)

I replaced the bellow tube and did not see any crack in the old one. I still got that replaced anyways.

I don't know if I will get 1123/1125 again or not but I was just wondering what the life of MAF is.

Mine is 99 and has 25K miles on it.

Thx.

Vent tube for the power steering reservoir.

:D Thanks.. Last night after reading so many postings on vac tube problems, I just had to make sure everything was still there. I should've known beter. Thanks much.

Hi,

I just found there is a tube that is open ened and wanted to make sure that's how it is supposed to be. If not, can someone please tell me where this is supposed to be conneced to?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks Loren. I am getting P1123 sporadically and going thru all possible causes. (MAF, O2 and etc)

This is related to my earlier posting. (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12676&st=0&p=62348entry62348)

Here are all the tests you can perform on the purge valve (since you did not say what your fault code was):

Check purge air line for blockage.

1. Remove front right-hand wheel housing liner.

2. Detach purge air line (connection face up) from EVAP canister.

3. Blow through purge air line with compressed air.

Check voltage supply for EVAP canister purge valve.

1. Remove connector of EYAP canister purge valve.

2. Connect voltmeter (positive) to EYAP canister purge valve connector, pin 1, and ground.

3. Switch on the ignition.

Display: battery voltage

Check EVAP canister Purge valve.

1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve.

2. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve pins 1 and 2.

Display: 26 ± 4 ohms at 20°C.

Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve.

1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve.

2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

3. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve, pin 2, and special tool 9616, pin 61.

Display: 0 - 5 ohms

Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve for short circuit to B+.

1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve.

2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector),

3. Connect voltmeter (positive) to EVAP canister purge valve connector, pin 2, and ground.

4. Switch on the ignition.

Display: 0 V

If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

Check triggering wire for EVAP canister purge valve for short circuit to ground.

1. Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve.

2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

3. Connect ohmmeter to EVAP canister purge valve connector, pin 2, and ground.

Display: infinite ohms

If 0 to 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage

I see EVAP canister purge valve is one of a few things to check but I am not sure exactly I should look for.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but i've tried to search for tips but no luck.

Thanks in advance.

What does your MAF read at warm idle?

Unfortunately, my OBD reader (Innova 3110) does not give me that information..

Anyone in Redmond,WA to help me out ? :-)

The problem came back and now I see the pattern. I hope this information can help someone further troubleshoot the issue.

Based on FF, I can tell you 1123 gets trigged when the engine is in idle. Temp of Cool = 195.

Does it help at all? Should I just go ahead and replace the MAF? Yes I did clean it.

3/20

DTC For Which Freeze Frame Was Stored P1123

Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop

Fuel System 2 Status Closed Loop

Calculated LOAD Value 1.96 %

Engine Coolant Temp 194.0 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 -3.13 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 8.59 %

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 -0.78 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 6.25 %

Engine RPM 703.50 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.0 mph

4/1

DTC For Which Freeze Frame Was Stored P1123

Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop

Fuel System 2 Status Closed Loop

Calculated LOAD Value 1.96 %

Engine Coolant Temp 197.6 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 0.78 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 3.91 %

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 -0.78 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 2.34 %

Engine RPM 689.50 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.0 mph

4/5

DTC For Which Freeze Frame Was Stored P1123

Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop

Fuel System 2 Status Closed Loop

Calculated LOAD Value 1.57 %

Engine Coolant Temp 194.0 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 -2.34 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 5.47 %

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 -2.34 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 3.91 %

Engine RPM 708.00 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.0 mph

Funny you should ask. Based on the recent P1123, I decided to clean the MAF last night. All the posting says not to touch it , and just spray & airblow.

Well, I did touch the sensor using the modified Q tip. Before I did this, I read enough about how the sensor worked and could not think why using QTip will damage it.

We clean various sensors this way including super sensitive CMOS, CCD sensors used in DSLR.

Well, I could be wrong but I will find out today when I drive. No, I haven't driven the car yet :)

I know MAF problems were covered thousands times, but my question is about cleaning it. When cleaning sensor, we are not supposed to touch anything. Just spray fluid on it and dry it. Pretty simple.

Hmmm!!!!!

DID ANYBODY TOUCH ANYTHING ON THE SENSOR?

Can we clean it gently for example with q-tip?

Are we going to damage sensor permanently?

Thank you for respone.

Now that I have this info, how do I troubleshoot further?

Thanks.

Year: 1999

Make: Porsche

Model: 996

Engine: 3.4

VIN:

License:

Mileage:

Stored:

P1123 O2S Sensing Range 1 Cyl. 1-3

Pending:

P1125 Oxygen Sensor Adaptation, Upper Load Range, Bank 1, Above Limit

MIL ON

Misfire Monitoring Complete

Fuel System Monitoring Complete

Comprehensive Component Monitoring Complete

Catalyst Monitoring Not Complete

Heated Catalyst Monitoring Not Supported

Evaporative System Monitoring Complete

Secondary Air System Monitoring Complete

A/C System Refrigerant Monitoring Not Supported

Oxygen Sensor Monitoring Complete

Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring Complete

EGR System Monitor Not Supported

DTC For Which Freeze Frame Was Stored P1123

Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop

Fuel System 2 Status Closed Loop

Calculated LOAD Value 1.96 %

Engine Coolant Temp 197.6 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 0.78 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 1 3.91 %

Short Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 -0.78 %

Long Term Fuel Trim-Bank 2 2.34 %

Engine RPM 689.50 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.0 mph

Automatic Transmission Problems:

Check Engine Light:

Light Always On

Driving Conditions When Problem Occurs:

2-10 Miles

Driving Habits:

Mostly City Driving

Engine Quits Or Stalls:

No Symptoms

Engine Temperature When Problem Noticed:

Warm

Problem First Noticed:

Started Last Week

Gasoline Used:

91 Octane

More Than 91 Octane

Idling Conditions:

No Symptoms

Peculiar Smells:

Problem Occurs:

Morning

Problems Starting Vehicle:

No Symptoms

Running Conditions:

No Symptoms

Strange Noises:

Weather Conditions When Problem Occurs:

32-55 F (0-13 C)

Transmission Type:

Describe The Problem:

thanks

I see there is a socket (plug) in the air pump but it is apparently not connected to anything. What is the purpose of this? does anyone know? just curious .

See the attached pic for the detail.

Do you have a local PCA chapter that you belong to?  I know here in Vegas we have alot of guys that would swing by in a situation like yours.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I got that taken care of. I just had to take a few min break to calm down. My wife tells me I am no different than my daughter. :beer:

I was able to take out the tank but somehow i cant put back the new one in.

I feel totally stupid because I did take it out. It makes no sense that i can't put it back in.

What am I doing wrong? Any tips?

Thx.

Frustrated..

Hi, can someone tell me how hard it is to replace the coolant tank, on a 1-5 scale (5 being hardest), and about how long it will probably take for someone who is a plodder (slow and careful), rather than a quick wrench.

Are any parts needed, other than the new coolant tank?

I read where someone was told by the dealer that the motor had to be removed.  But from looking at Ninerguru's site, that doesn't seem necessary.

Lastly, does everyone buy their OEM parts from their local dealer, or is there a cheaper source for OEM parts.  I checked out many online parts sites (which all appear to use World Pac as a source), and the tank is not available.  The local dealer said $234.86 for the tank.  Not that bad (unless you consider it is solid plastic).

Thanks.   :thumbup:

Dean

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Its not that difficult, though I would say it would take a slow plodder up a to a few hours. Luckily you have an older car with a smaller tank that is about 10 times easier to remove.

I would get a new tank and a new cap to be safe, though its not necessary.

You DEFINATELY do not need to remove the engine to replace the coolant tank. Warranty doesnt pay for that so neither should you.

Good luck, make sure to tighten those fuel lines when you go back together.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ive followed the excellent instruction but i am having a major difficulty in putting back the new tank in. no matter what i try, it wont go back in with the sensor installed.

if i put the tank in w/o sensor, there is no way i can put in the sensor.

i am very frustrated. is there anyone in redmond, wa who is willing to come rescue me before i go insane?

:censored:

thx.

AR38070 - when I connected the external power source, none of lights would work. The external power source is the 12V portable battery that that I have been using for years. Also, I tried to use a battery in another car. Neither worked. We've tried total 3 different power sources with and without the battery in my porsche. Nothing worked.

Now as to what caused this i have no clue. Like I said, the car was parked for about 1 hour and after I came back from lunch, I was able to remote open the door and got in. When I put the key in and turned, I saw no sign of electricity (no hazard, courtesy lights)

1999porsche911,

I will ask the quesiton to the dealer. They will call me on Monday as they dont work on weekends. The initial conversation I had the tech got me worried quite a bit. This is a first electric related problem I had with a car out of warranty and I wonder how they determine the labor.

I really appreciate everyone's helps here. Thanks.