boxstermuscle

Thank you Silver_ _TT and JFP for your valuable information.I guess I'm going with the Porsche Stuff.I was going to try Mobil 1 Delvac if I couldn't get the Porsche Stuff.Thank You Guys

Hi Tom,

Your vehicle calls for a GL-5 75W-90 oil for the manual transmission,  We don't know for sure if the LS additives can be used.

A safer choice would be our Mobil Delvac 1 Gear Oil 75W-90

I Just received this reply from Mobil

Hi Ike,

        If you go to Mobil website you will find that they are non-committal when it comes to transmission oil. Yes,they  do have a function on website for engine oil and nothing else.I reach out to them a couple of days ago and I am waiting for a reply.As a man that totally brought a Boxster back to life after a rollover I am pretty good.I was responsible for all recalls,because Porsche wrote me off.Right now I am going to Redline which has a lot of information regarding my car.

Hi Ike,

        If you go to Mobil website you will find that they are non-committal when it comes to transmission oil. Yes,they  do have a function on website for engine oil and nothing else.I reach out to them a couple of days ago and I am waiting for a reply.As a man that totally brought a Boxster back to life after a rollover I am pretty good.I was responsible for all recalls,because Porsche wrote me off.Right now I am going to Redline which has a lot of information regarding my car.

I put this oil in about 2k ago. I could swear the car is not shifting as smooth as before.Also the transaxle is louder .

Hey JFP !    You never told me what you think of the Boxster Nose with smiley face that I sent a pix of.

Hi JFP,   I took your advice obtaining the necessary adapters for my Stant TC255.I got them at Amazon.I bought the 12016 and the 12017 adapters.The 12017 allows me to check the coolant cap.I did get the best price from Amazon.  Thanks Again.   Tom

Thanks for the info

I didn't buy anything just yet. The Maddox does not include the 48mm adapter that you so kindly sent me a picture of .I am no rush.Oh yea,,the Maddox I was thinking of uses shop air which makes it cheaper and also made in Texas.

Thank JFP.  I just got off the phone with Pedro from Pedro"s Garage.He just told me to get the Maddox brand with many fittments from Harborfreight which has it for 79.99 and with 20% off and a $10 giftcard ,it's costing 54.The picture I'm sending is the new nose I did during pandemic and recovering from cancer.Hope you like it

I am buying a cooling system pressure checking tool to keep in the shop.The one I saw is made by Stant. I saw technician using it on cable television "Tech Garage". show  .It looks straight forward  to operate. The issue is what adapter to buy that would fit the coolant tank.There are many to choose from. The tool also checks coolant reservoir cap. Thanks for your help.

CODE 47

I HAVE  BEEN CHASING A ALARM FAULT USING THE DURAMETRIC TOOL FOR AWHILE.I HAVE A 97 BOXSTER  I PUT TOGETHER IN 1998 AFTER BUYING IT AS A WRECK.IT WAS A METRO BLUE WHICH I CHANGED TO POLAR SILVER WHICH WAS THE BEST DECISION I EVER MADE.THE CAR WAS A ROLLOVER WITH 19 MILES COMING FROM THE DEALER.I LEARNED TREMENDOUSLY FROM THIS PROJECT.THE ONLY THING ISTHIS FAULT ASSOCIATED WITH THE DASH ALARM.I AM LOOKING TO CHANGE THIS SENSOR , IF ONLY I CAN OBTAIN A GOOD PART NUMBER.THIS SENSOR IS LOCATED ON THE MIDDLE DASH AT THE BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD 

i received the latest TSb  from Porsche dated  2004 with 12 pages.This picture I am showing below resembles what mine look like except that mine is soldered.I have a 97 Boxster that's never been to the dealer.I also have two pins that have the retrofit of gold contacts soldered and shrink-wrap.what I did different this time was all brown wires (ground) each individually go to GP6 and GP7.I am using the latest buckles ending in 09 & 10.Wish me luck

Hi JFP,  I just heard from my friend at Porsche that he advises not to buy a used one of these.Reason is that "it is locked" and unusable.A brand new one is 1k.

After 2 to 3 recurrences of airbag light coming on.after performing TSB6924 wiring  changes.after changing both belt buckles with latest and greatest ending in 09 and 10 part numbers.The TSB is stating I should change my airbag control unit to the latest 996.618.219.02 .What I need to know is this a plug and play control unit install.I do have the Durametric version 6 which I know is not going to help.Is this module in a need to be programmed?

I have been reading the vacuum canister has a bad track record.It has cracks that show up when pressurized under water .I am considering purchasing a smoke machine when the price is right.Any thoughts?

I am having the same problem chasing a similiar problem but with a P1124 and a P1126.I too changed my AOS to the new type with a new "j" tube.I sprayed starting fluid on all joints while running hoping that the engine would sputter and it didn't.I will get a fresh can of starter fluid tomorrow and will try spraying gas and oil cap while running and also the oil dipstick that someone suggested to you.I thought this problem was fixed until a mile from my home after a 25 mile trip.

The starter fluid works on vacuum hoses and connections before the fuel intake manifold (pre-spark plug.) It is not advisable to spray fuel or oil caps or dipstick tube as nothing should happen.

I am having the same problem chasing a similiar problem but with a P1124 and a P1126.I too changed my AOS to the new type with a new "j" tube.I sprayed starting fluid on all joints while running hoping that the engine would sputter and it didn't.I will get a fresh can of starter fluid tomorrow and will try spraying gas and oil cap while running and also the oil dipstick that someone suggested to you.I thought this problem was fixed until a mile from my home after a 25 mile trip.

OK here we go I have a 2000 boxster and I keep getting codes p1130 and p1128 I have replaced the oil filler tube had a crack in it put in a new MAF replaced the air oil separator new gas filter checked every were for a vacuum leaks car runs just fine I clear the code

drive it for about 100 miles and the codes come back so were do look next ?

and how do I check the fuel pressure . PLEASE HELP THANKS

It sounds like the only thing you haven't done is check the oil dipstick tube and replace the gas and oil cap. The oil dip stick tube sometimes can develop a crack and be tough to pinpoint.

Some folks cut off the little feet on the bottom of the accelerator to help this - you'll notice that the butterfly can open a little more than with your foot on the floor. I cut off the feet/tabs, and now the throttle body is open all the way.

I am going to check tonight the position of the butterfly at the throttle body with air intake pipe off so I can see down the bore.I obtained 80% in diagnostics with me turning the throttle until it stops at the cable.

I can move the little flap in the valve and it seems to be moving like it should.

Is there any way to test if the solenoid is broken? Will it show if i plugg in the PIWIS?

Thanks for the quick reply! :thankyou:

You might be able to activate it with a PST2 or PIWIS but I doubt it will tell you it moved - I don't know how it would know. You will likely need to observe it when activated.

If it does not move you know you have your problem.

I HAD MINE OFF LAST WEEK AS I WAS CLEANING THROTTLE BODY ON THE WORKBENCH. SIMPLY CONNECTING A 9VOLT BATTERY TO THIS DEVICE WHILE IT WAS OFF THE THROTTLE BODY ,I WAS ABLE TO SEE THE "GATE" OPENING AND CLOSING

'

I have been working on 97 Boxster, hoping winter will go faster in New York.I just installed the TechnoTorque intake and installing the latest AOS with new J tube.After finishing these two projects I decided to connect my LapTop loaded with 6.0 durametric to monitor readings from the motor.I selected Throttle Position percentage and I read 80% with my foot to the floor.I then went directly to the throttle body and actuated the butterfly linkage and received same reading.Did anyone out there get the same reading as my non-E gas boxster.I did this test with engine not running .AlsoI performed same test using Innova 3130 diagnostic and received same results. Any body with a non-E gas out there willing to give this a try?

I need some information regarding the preparation of the flywheel surface that would be mating with the new clutch.I have heard everything from leaving it alone to having it cut on a rotor cutting machine.Has anybody had any experience in this area? I intend to do soup to nuts with new bolts and release bearing.

Any body can help with part# for two torx (security) that secure maf sensor on a 1997 boxster (USA)......THANKS