ArneeA

Do you have some sort of extended warranty?

I agree with Loren, it's a major thing not to ignore.

Loren, the transmission for a 996TT is simliar to a 996 N/A? I ask because I wonder if a clutch bleed valve is in the same position as my 996 N/A.

Thanks.

Yes, it is similar. It still sits high on the transmission near the bell housing.

Remember PentoSin for the clutch circuit on TT/GT2.

Ah thanks. I'm sorry but Pento-who? The 996TT DIY section is empty... I can't find any info. It's for a friend's car and I'll be helping him with the fluids.

Look in your Owners Manual the clutch and power steering use only Pentosin CHF 202 (Pentosin CHF 202 supersedes CHF 11S and they can be mixed).

Gotcha. Thanks.

Loren, the transmission for a 996TT is simliar to a 996 N/A? I ask because I wonder if a clutch bleed valve is in the same position as my 996 N/A.

Thanks.

Yes, it is similar. It still sits high on the transmission near the bell housing.

Remember PentoSin for the clutch circuit on TT/GT2.

Ah thanks. I'm sorry but Pento-who? The 996TT DIY section is empty... I can't find any info. It's for a friend's car and I'll be helping him with the fluids.

Loren, the transmission for a 996TT is simliar to a 996 N/A? I ask because I wonder if a clutch bleed valve is in the same position as my 996 N/A.

Thanks.

Hmm thanks for the info! To be on the safe side, I will purchase the newer style tool. :D

Loren, any reason why not to use the pickle fork? I used a pickle fork for my 944 without any issues. Thanks.

Have you guys tried cleaning the MAS and/or the Throttle body also?

What kind of car do you have? For the C4S, an 11" wide rear rim from factory comes with 295 wide tires but in 18" diameter.

Since you have 19x11, maybe 315/30/19's would fit better with sufficient sidewall to handle the load the protect the rim.

Thanks...

Are there any downfalls in removing the clutch pedal's booster spring (aside from a stiffer, more direct clutch pedal feel)?

I've done a few searches and couldn't find any info/DIY/photos on how to remove the spring. Any help would be appreciated also. Thanks.

:D Thanks.

Hi Loren. What's a good piston reset tool would you recommend that works well with the C4S/Turbo brakes?

I found this tool below, is this sufficient? Thanks in advance.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?acti...P=1&LowCt=0

Nice car! Time to do Palomar Mtn!

Stories like this infuriate me as I'm sure it does to most, if not all, of you guys. :cursing: :cursing:

How many miles do you have on the car?

H&R springs are progressive springs, right? I'm curious to see if they work well with the C4S's shocks/struts in the handling department.

The original concept of a dry sump is that oil is scavenged out of the traditional sump and pumped into a separate tank where it could be stored, and also be less subject to oil surge when cornering at high speeds. This insures oil supply to the engine when all the pumps are working correctly.

If one is an optimist:

Porsche integrated the oil tank as part of the traditional sump concept for the 996 engines. The other engines you mentioned have a specific remote oil tank. The 996 block/case was designed for space and weight savings. The inclusion of the oil tank in the engine casings removed the need for external lines and enables a more compact design. There are baffle plates in this sump that prevent the oil from spilling into the areas where moving parts can be affected by this surge. So it is part of the engine as we would normally regard a sump, but with functional modifications that afford it a dry sump classification. People will say that some oil starvation problems are evident when these engines are tracked, and Porsche offers a modified baffle system to cater for this.

If one is a pessimist:

A dry sump means a dry sump - since the traditional sump is located under the crankshaft - so anything other than that means pseudo dry sump/wet sump with baffles.

The V bottom design of the Turbo/GT2/GT3 engine cases does not allow enough room/capacity for oil to be stored there - hence the need for a oil tank mounted between the engine and the rear bulkhead - plus these engines were derived from racing designs, and they are also much more expensive to manufacture.

Geza,

You mention Porsche has a modified baffle system to cater to potential oil starvation problems. Is there a specific part you are referring to? I have seen Brey-Krause (sp?) offers a revised 'oil pan' but was unfamiliar with the Porsche part.

TIA

He might be referring to this:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...y_Code=996sport

I don't think you are going to know if it is the IMS or RMS (or both) without removing the transmission and flywheel.

I agree. Knowing that it could be the ISS also, then it's going to a shop for a checkup. At 12k miles, it's too early for a new clutch but I may just get a new one anyway. I think I'll tell my indy to try the GT3 motorsports seal.

:renntech:

You should be aware that I have done a lot of research on the RMS problem. One thing is absolutely certain now, a faulty RMS cannot cause engine failure or have anything to do with it. A faulty IMS on the ither hand might indicate intermediate shaft problems which will probably leade to engine failure. However, even if the RMS in the 996 or Boxster actually fell out of the crank (extremely rare) it will not cause engine failure. All that will happen is that oil will leak into the bell housing (but not pour out, only slowly). However the leak will be worse than say a leaking RMS. It may be enough to cause clutch contamination. It is more likely that oil will drip onto your exhaust and cause smoking. This will cause alarm but it is not bad news.

It looks like this is the answer to my question! I posted the Q too soon! thank you!

No problems. You can let it leak forever without damage.

Even in the most extreme rare case (and I don;t know if this has ever happened) that the seal fell out, it won;t blow your engine up.

The seal is not like a plug. It doesn't hold the oil in per se, it just stops it weeping out the end of the block thru the main bearing. If it gell out its possible to get a lot of oil on your clutch and it would probably drip on your exhaust and cause a lot of smoke. But no catastrophic engine failure.

I drove around for thousands of miles between RMS fixes. In fact I had my 1st RMS done at 27k and my car has now done 52k and only just stopped leaking......I have been driving around leaking for years.

So hang in there until the clutch is done.

Could be the intermediate shaft seal too...

If the ISS is leaking, is it acceptable to leave it leaking like the RMS until a clutch change is due?

I just saw a drop of oil in the garage floor. :cursing: But it's VERY little and I'm not too worried about it until my clutch is due IF it's the RMS. BUT if it's the ISS, is it a must-fix?

Thanks guys. I'm loving it. ALTHOUGH I found some dime-sized oil drops on my garage floor as of late! It's not alot though.

Oh Oh...possibly RMS... :unsure:

Any warranty left on the car?

I bought extended warranty so I'm not too worried about it. It's just finding the time to having it looked at. It's not alot of oil. I'd say just a drop or two over two day's. :) I think I'll drive it instead.

I'm running Schnell headers and mufflers in my 99 996. They were very easy to install and I have been very pleased with them. The mufflers are not very loud, but they have gotten a bit louder over time. Schnell was the only manufacturer who offered me a money back guarantee if I wasn't satisfied. The mufflers have absolutely no resonation, and the price was cheaper than most of the other manufacturers. Overall, I have been very satisfied.

Who is a good retailer of Schnell products?

Thanks.

I just did a Google search for Schnell and was directed to a number of companies who carried the line....but then I ended up going through SharkWerks in the SF Bay Area and he ordered them, had them on hand when I came in, and Alex and James did the installs along with the GIAC flash and EVOM intake. I've been pleased with the Schnells....mostly because they're not obnoxiously loud, but they are loud enough to get some feedback when you go thru a tunnel or enclosed area. I might add that the fitment of the Schnells was outstanding...and James at SharkWerks said they were very easy to install.....if I had it to do over, I probably would do my own install.

Chuck

Thanks Chuck. That's good to hear about the fitment. That's one other thing I don't want to deal with -- misaligned exhaust tips!

Arnee

Have any of you guys tried this:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996IN

It doesn't require drilling. It seems like a viable option? I'd lke a set of alum pedals myself.

Yes, I tried them....they stay on, but the rubber things fall off. I replaced mine with ultimate pedals:

http://ultimatepedals.com/

Thanks for the info. I'll check those out and the ones from carnewal

I'm running Schnell headers and mufflers in my 99 996. They were very easy to install and I have been very pleased with them. The mufflers are not very loud, but they have gotten a bit louder over time. Schnell was the only manufacturer who offered me a money back guarantee if I wasn't satisfied. The mufflers have absolutely no resonation, and the price was cheaper than most of the other manufacturers. Overall, I have been very satisfied.

Who is a good retailer of Schnell products?

Thanks.

Thanks guys. I'm loving it. ALTHOUGH I found some dime-sized oil drops on my garage floor as of late! It's not alot though.

Have any of you guys tried this:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996IN

It doesn't require drilling. It seems like a viable option? I'd lke a set of alum pedals myself.