RFM

Factory drain plugs are made of light metal and use a standard 8mm Allan key.

Have you ever tried to clean the throttle body and side mounted idle speed adjuster ? If it is done without improvement check the throttle-valve switch for proper possition and connection. There are several possibilities, but this is to carry out the most simpliest.

The mechanical parkbrake shoes should be set back to remove the brake disc because the inside of the disc, where the brake shoes do not touch the disc, are rusty and constitute an obstacle to remove the disc easily. It is therefore that the electric version of the system require the same treatment, resetting the parkbrake shoes to the minimum via diagnostic tool and bring back the shoes to the values at the end of the work by the diagnostic tool. This makes sense to me, sportplus997, would be right.

Requesting error codes would be best to start with, it may well be that into the lock built-in micro switch is defective.

Start with first balancing the rim, without the tire,in order to determine the most massive point of the rim. Rebalance the rim with the tire mounted, the result is the most massive point of the tire. Match the most massive point of the tire directly opposite of the most massive point of the rim, this is the point where a minimum of weight must be added. Install the tires always with a minimum mounting kit to prevent slippage of the tire on the rim under acceleration. Mark a line corresponding the side wall of the tire and the inside of the rim so you can see later on if the tire is not moved against the rim.

Transmission manufacturer: Zachnradfabrik Friedrichshafen AG

I would shut this section off to be sure.

If there is a coil which melt by an internal short-circuit, the fuses of the INJECTION system may blown as a protection of the catalyst. That works that way on most of the Bosch products, you should defenitely inspect that before costs are incurred.

The switch may also be a three-way switch, try the positions, for example: L=both, Midd.=only left, R=only right.

This was the case on the first series PDCC, each time there was being worked on the hydraulic part of the PDCC system, the reservoir had to be replaced, periodically as well. This was a precoutionary measure to protect the (cranky)pressurepump against contamination, incidentally air bubbles in the system are also fatal. It might have changed in the meantime.

What you describe as weird has always been a standard setting, first adjust the driver's side and than the passenger side. The idea was if another driver, with a different riding position, thakes the car he coult bring in one movement both mirrors simultanious in the right position. This was of course only for cars without memory seats. Maybe something went wrong here by software.

Briefly, the PDCC reservoir has a built-in filter, the Powersteering reservoir not. This should be the reason.

Not optional headlamps have a manual controller under the light switch to adjust the height depending on the load. There is something wrong with it, unfortunately i have no diagram available in order to make it easier, it is probably the adjustingknob itself, but i'm not 100% sure.

It seems that the knock is coming from the valve train, perhaps a hydraulic tappet that fails by low oil pressure (idle)and filled at higher pressure (+ 1K RPM)

This phenomenon is as old as the 911 series itself, especially at cold outside temperatures. Its up to the specific geometry of the car and a normal occurrence, it can be reduced to a minimum by having the car aligned up to the perfection.

This is true for 997 LHD, 996 LHD is on the opposite side, this can confuse.

This is a known issue, the new design should provide a solution.

@ bilabonic, the OBD port is located under the glove box on RHD cars.

There is an auxiliary circulation pump inside the left front wing, firewall side, which pumps the residual heat from the engine cooling system through the cabin heather core over a given time, only with key inserted in the ignition switch. The aim is to enjoy the passenger(s) with a few minutes of heat while the driver is outside the car, and the engine is disabled. That thing can cause quite a lot of noise, I would check that one day.

It might be farfetched but is the windshield not replaced in the past? If the adhesive sealant is not fully closed at the bottom side of the windscreen you get an annoying whistling sound. I would suggest to tape off the windshield on top, underside and left and right side and give it a try, it does not take long, does not cost much and could be the solution.

Thanks to report the cause and solution.

Can you reset the service reminder with this devise? If it does not it seems quite useless for a DIY, this is what i think about it.

At Sunset Porsche (board sponsor) or dealership, nut and bolt together costs almost nothing.

PIWIS can read the specific live of the sensor/battery, anyway the sensors can give erroneous information already, concerning the tire pressure, to one half of the specified service life. I would advise to replace the sensors when some abnormalities arise between the reported, on the dash, and the actual measured pressure, with a tire pressure gauge, on one or more wheels.

It looks like an already occurred shortcoming on some MY 964 alternator/engine wiring, these are then replaced with a factory recal. Despite the many fuses, it remains a fire hazard to me. Those with this problem could be related, to an OPC or their respective importer, the car checked and make a complaint, such thing have nothing to do with any warranty period given their action on the much older 964 a few years ago, at least this is my view on this matter. "If you do not shoot, you always miss the target" people say over here.