RFM

For ROW cars: ignition on, engine not running. So it should go. 

I think that button is not available separately, in that case a scrap yard can offer a solution.

Are you sure the plugs are wet with gasoline? The system works as follows: after a number of misfires the system will shut down the injectors concerned, it is therefore not evident that they are wet with gasoline. There are still more options as motor oil, coolant, gasoline contaminated with gas oil or other fuel. Be sure, first of all, that this pure gasoline. 

The microswitch is built into the luggage compartment lock, you can try to lubricate the switch mecanism preferably with a dry lubricant as teflon spray or the like.

If still Original, should be Torx.

Do not forget to check the catalist of the respective cylinder bank for clogging or breakage.

Sitting above the fuel tank/steering rack, there will be no water penetration inside the car but it will be a mess (oxidation) up and around the tank/rack. Without the drain tubes the water is after all no longer channeled.

Given the fuel system management using calculated values, it is recommended to refuel the car with the ignition off in first place.

For this is a pressure gauge with the appropriate connections required and a measuring glass and timer for the flow. Unfortunately i have no specific values available at this time, it will be available trough the piwis system where pages of the workshop manual will be made available, be subject to payment. Hopefully someone has the values here in the forum yet. 

For Tiptronic: brake lights ok? - brake light switch ok?

                      fuses ok?

For manual: clutch pedal switch ok?

                    fuses ok?

Start with a low pressure check, when the pressure and/or flow rate of the regular pump inside the tank is not right, the high pressure pump will not reach the required values and cause an error code as well.   

Was the flap, on this type of car, not an integral part of the wheel well liner?

This rubber washer is not genuine, two original parts are required which fit in to the rear crossbar (air filter rest) the two pins, at the bottom of the filter housing, fit exactly in the with rubber provided holes without causing noises as rattle and squeak.

The ignition switch on a 997/987 is universal, keys of another 997/987 will fit also but will not become effective by the built-in transponder which is specificially linked to the vehicle. The key blade,however, is specific to the door lock. 

The clamping straps have probably lost their tension, remove the water hose and clean up all residues, replace the clamping straps by new ones, preferably by specimens with a tension capability for screw driver or key.

The tube that you indicates go to the brake booster in the front trunk, the valve is a one way valve. Check where the leak is properly located in first place, the tube or the valve.

The big relay, under the dash left side, wanted to cause problems in the circumstances as you mentioned.

The use of a diagnostic device is always the best route to go, the problem may have multiple causes such as defective fuses, broken or damaged wiring, corroded plugs into the connectors, incorrect or broken microswitches to a faulty window/door ecu, which is a unit with the motor.

The rear trunk emergency cable is located behind, and on the rear side, of the left inner wheel well.

It could be connected to the engine hood lock, for the indication on the display " Engine Hood Open" This is my best guess honestly. Give it a try.

You may never let the engine running while refueling, fuel system operates under a specific pressure by environement regulations, controled by the DME. This fact alone is already a reason for a MIL.

I would first repair the coil problem and the fuse, probably an internal short in the coil itself, the starter could be related to the work you have done on the alternator, loading ok? connections ok? 

The control of the fans is realized by a PWM signal via the fan control box, however the operation  is more complex, DME 7.8-CAN (high speed and comfort)-GATEWAY-AC-ENGINE/COOLANT/ENGINE ROOM/OUTSIDE temp. sensors and the board network control box are involved.

I think you better restart the operation, there is probably an internal leak, loose or wrongly connected tubing/pump, electrical connection or even bad pump.

Remember that, just like the brakes, the shock absorbers also warming up by the friction on the in and out movements. The fact that the wheel sensors are replaced remind me of weak shock absorbers, the sensors go thereto defect.