RFM

6 hours ago, florida miles said:

So... Just had my water pump fail and installed a new one. Bled the cooling system as instructed on the various treads on this forum. No luck. As soon as it runs for a few minutes it overheates. Can the waterpump be bad?!  Did not replace the thermostat but will if I'm back under there. Any suggestions are welcome thanks. 

 

Have you filled the circuit with a vacuum device? Without a tool it is very difficult to get all air pockets out of the circuit. New water pump faillures are rare but not impossible, the rotor sometimes does sit loose on the shaft, but i'm guessing on air pockets.

14 hours ago, teve62 said:

I decided it was time to change the serpentine on my 987.1 this morning and so had to remove the seats (well not a necessity but doing a bit of cleaning as well was in the plan). This thread gave the little oommphh required to do it as removing seats on the 987 seemed to be still a vague thing. So removing the four Torx wasn't a big deal but the wiring was more subtle as the connectors are bigger than on my Echo (no seat air bags to start). took a bit of studying the big yellow connector to realise there is a black slider on its side, pull it all the way out (1-2cm) and the connector splits, bingo on the driver side. On the pax side there is an extra gray connector that has a red slider, same method applies and you're done.

Hopefully you have disconnected the battery, fumble on yellow connectors can end badly with power on. This is just a warning to prevent your health.

Check whether the alternator freewheel pulley is not jammed, this causes excessive vibration in the poly V belt which can break off mounting bolts.

The plastic tubes have to be replaced if damaged, they are vacuum tubes which, inter alia, controlled the resonance flap in the plenum and other vacuum operated parts. Leave it as it is not an option.

Do a test drive with the OEM exhaust in order to know the difference in value, 200 cell cats can occasionally show strange problems when they are no longer optimally.

Without the use of a vacuum filling system it shall be a time-consuming and hazardous task, any trapped air bubbles are indeed very difficult to remove without vacuum tool.

When only leaking pistons are replaced calibration is not necessary, but when the entire system has not completely or partialy reached the points of reference (microswitches) a calibration is needed. 

The connecting rod between the lock cylinder and the door lock mechanism is not connected properly or defective. You will have to start over, the connecting rod looks like a mini oar, the flat end of the rod falls into a groove of the door lock. Since the remote controle turns itself off after about six days, this is a problem whitch must be solved as soon as possible.

Ok- face redder than a red thing who was looking at a red sun all day - the gauge I was looking at was the oil temp gauge - Dohhh.

 

So then the question becomes - how long before the oil comes to normal temp with "normal driving"

 

Thanks

 

Simon

Which is about 10 Km.

Is true of all sensors, spark plugs and coils, OEM parts turn out the cheapest in money and time. Happy for you that it is resolved.

Multiple components are shared under the VAG group vehicles, so it would be more than likely.

The engine temp. sensor to the control box seems to falter in the vicinity of 40F in this case, the values should be compared with a new one under the same circumstances.

Concerning your last video "Surging idle", the parking brake must be engaged for a proper measurement when the wheels are off the ground, otherwise the transmission and the wheels are a little dragged by the engine, causing a slight difference in RPM at idle due to no torque. 

Bank 1 is on the driver's side on 996 LHD cars, also the waterpump side.

Are the waterhoses, on the back of the engine (in the middle of the V) well connected in the right order? There are 3 or 4 of them and are not connected in the logical way. 

It is the vehicle which is programmed to the key fob, not the key fob to the vehicle.

Before going to be done useless work or made costs, check with a diagnostic/programming device the status of the control boxes, probably they sould be returned in "Vehicle Handover" modus. Sometimes they jump back into factory mode.

Remove the wheel and the inner wheel well liner, the pump element is accessible against the A-pillar.

As cited above, make it easy on yourself and use a diagnostic tool for this exercise.

Both claxons, disposed in the forecastle of the vehicle, are connected to the steering wheel (ROW), 1 Low pitch and 1 High pitch. 

Good morning to Belgium. I did not try. Is it possible to do it for a short time?

Yes, you can do it for a short time, just watch the engine temp. Then you already know for sure that it was not/is associated with the peripheral devices of the engine. Reminder, the V-belt can make such a noise also.

Is the noise the same with the V-belt removed?

Technically it is possible to siphon out the expansion tank without draining the entire cooling system, but think about the age of your car, after 10 years of age i would replace the entire amount of coolant. 

There is specific locking tool used to adjust the timing? Are the vacuum operated butterfly valves inside the intake manifold, and intake ports not damaged, blocked or clogged? Are the valves cleaned and grinding  properly in their seats, valve spring(s) not weak or broken? Compression test done? No air leak at cyl. 5? DTC P0305 should be there for sure, anny other error codes? A diagnostic tool could help a lot as well as an emission test (HC-CO-CO²-O²) at idle and at 3.000 RPM. There are many possibilities, into the engine block itself at a VR6.

The pressure of the wiper arm (spring) is not sufficient, lubricate the spring and the pivots of the arm, while you pull the arm away from the glass and moves back. When the arm moves smoothly again, the pressure on the middle part of the wiper blade will increase again.