RFM

As opposed to 996, only MY 05 of 997 lacks this feature as well as opening and closing the canvas top with remote control in convertibles. From MY 06 this feature should be active again (ROW)

VIN June 05 is an end year build, production 06 begins late August. 

I think it fits on the bottom rear edge of the sunroof, easiley accessible with the sunroof in tilted position, refit with some glue.

A new cap is a priority, this one does not hold the predetermined pressure and is probably the cause of the coolant loss.

Try to relearn the window(s), with the doors closed, first. If this does not help, a PIWIS diagnostic device is recommanded, it may well be an error in the door handles microswitches.

You are reporting that the glass drops 10 cm, normally it should be aprox. 10 mm. Either you are mistaken regarding the mesurement or there is something more going on, the window mechanism is still working with the switches? no unusual noise?

986/987 do not have, what you call, heat shields on the valve covers. They are in fact a kind of mudguards and unnecessary by the 180° rotated engine configuration versus 996/997.

The sensors are controlled by the DME, since they are an integral part of the engine management.

The lower right engine area is exactly the spot where the waterpump is located, have you used an OEM part?

When the front or rear brakes spontaneous jam without there being worked on, is the hydraulic part of the ABS suspicious, calipers will get stuck mostly separately and noth both at the same time. This kind of problem can not be checked with a diagnostic device, this is best done manually. If there is already worked on the brake system, there are obviously a lot more possible causes.

Electrically operated systems tend to breaks the connection between the actuator and the lock/latch, the actuator and cable guide are made in one piece, replace as a whole. These are located in the front of the  trunk right side behind the latch trim/carpet. The luggage compartmend lid will have to be opened using the auxiliary cable inside and behind the right front fender trim close to the cooling water hose and radiator.

The oil pressure sensor has a dual function, sending a signal to: a)the gauge and B) oil pressure light. The sensor and connector/wiring are, actualy the Achilles' heel of the system, it has the appearancethat there is something wrong with the sensor, however a check with a professional oil pressure gauge gives you the full certainty.

If you have no vacuum filing system it becomes more difficult, what you can do is jacking the rear of the car up as high as possible, open the bleeder valve and slowly fill the system with coolant, let the engine run and top up, let the engine cool down and top up again. This process will be repeated a few times, then go drive around the block, let the engine cool down again and top up, you must keep a very close eye on the engine temp. during the entire time of the bleeding procedure. After a few rides (days?) you can close the bleeder valve. As you can see it is a time-consuming and not always trouble free operation, therefore is a vacuum fill system a must have, the device is not too expensive and you will use it undoubtedly.

There is not mentioned how many Miles/Km the car has but it could well be that the dual-mass flywheel is at its end, you can also not know what happened with it during the IMS replacement.

I've also never had to replace that part, but the central front engine mount is in contrast to what you think, easy to remove with the engine in the car. The engine has to support near the front with a jack (work carried out on the floor with jack stands)or with a hydraulic jacking (work carried out on a lift).

Least you can do is to measure whether there is power and ground on the radio connector, unless there is a interruption between the fuse box/grounding and the radio. If this is considered to be OK, only then the radio can be seen as a possible suspect.

Do with a PIWIS a "Car Handover" the control box is probably lost his memory, this occurs more and solved within a minute.

Interesting allenone20. Your mileage seems to fall in the usually reported range for a 997--i.e. 30,000-40,000 miles for a clutch. I have limited experience with a "three on the tree" but have accumulated about one million miles of manual transmission mileage and have never(!) replaced a clutch in any vehicle--street or track. My 8V GTI and Audi 80Q made it a combined 250,000 miles with their factory clutches. 

 

I need to better understand the 997 clutch design as mine seems to get a little warm and smelly from what I consider to be slight "abuse".

 

$1400 is less than a local indie shop quoted, was that a while ago? Your flywheel was either good to go or resurfaced I presume?

...j

Please note that all standard Carrera 997 have a dual mass flywheel which may not be resurfaced to prevent any imbalance between the two flywheel masses.

With studs it will be difficult to move the caliper from the hub i guess. There is very little lateral clearance around there, you can give it a try anyway.

All kinds of leakage influence the running characteristics of an engine, the rattle in the upper part of the intake manifold is probably caused by a loose butterfly valve or a connecting part on/ inside the transverse sections of the manifold, this always gives influence on gas milage/power.

If you smell coolant through the AC vents there is a high probability that the heater core is leaking which is centrally located under the dash. The heater core is not equipped with a control valve, but by an air flap, there flows continuously coolant under pressure through the core, hot or cold, AC on or off will remain the same. Traces of coolant should be present in the condensed water under the car after driving with AC on. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zf-OYXlhJis Here's a little explanation on the different measurement methods USA-EUROP. The anti-knock rating remains in fact the same, it leads only to a different number.

This seems normal behavior for a MY 2006 to my.

It seems that the engine is "sweating" this is not uncommon, it occurs after many years of use. I would suggest to clean the engine properly in first place, this not only makes it easier to detect the leak it is much cleaner to work on it also. Two advantages in one move.