Cloudsurfer

My local machine shop already did the cut. I'll get the specs from them when I pick up the heads later today or tomorrow.

I had 5 valve guides that were toast. They are pressing new ones in. I was getting ticking in #2 and it turns out is actually the valve guides so far out... not the lifters.

When I went to the shop yesterday we put a valve in and the amount of play in the guide was astonishing.

I couldn't believe what a professional job they are doing, they turn a lot of heads around. I'll post some pics.

Interesting. None of mine showed any wear at all.

Try John Edwards at Costa Mesa R&D (www.engine-machining.com). He fixed the crack in my cylinder head and did a valve job at the same time. Don't know that he did a three angle, but he does lots of mods on these engines so he would probably know the specs.

I'll second this. He did the work on my 3.6 to 3.8 build.

So i have engine out and cam covers removed. where do the other side of those ports come out, near the exhaust valves?

They come out in the exhaust ports, so if you pull the headers off, you'll see the outlets. If you just run some solvent through those passages, it'll clean them up.

I'm sure they're all gummed up. The ports in the heads are fairly simple, and could be cleaned without too much fuss. You don't need to pull the heads (which is a pretty good size job on these motors), but I imagine it'd be incredibly difficult to do with the motor in the car. With it out of the car, it'd be VERY easy to clean all of this.

That's an interesting one. I would have said clutch switch too, but being a Tip (which I know virtually nothing about), I'm not sure where to go. I'd find it highly unlikely that the new ignition switch you installed is bad.

You need to find out what metal the flakes are, as that will tell you where they came from. I would pull the pan and see what you find down there as well.

Either way,metal that size in an engine is never good. I absolutely would not drive the car until you figure out what this is.

how about a used OEM exhaust from ebay? I'm sure it's in great shape as the new owner wanted ugpraded exhaust, will go for cheaper then a new cat and you can sell what you don't need!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...sspagenameZWDVW

Anyone know for sure if an '04 Boxster S exhaust would fit a '00 non-S?

Yes, all 00-04 cars use the same.

Unless Oscholz buys them, I have a set of headers from an 03 S with 40K sitting around.

Good used set is fine. I am pretty sure I have a set laying around from an 03 S.

Gbox is about $2500 for a G50 based 6-speed rebuild, and while you're there, get an LSD installed (biggest improvement you can make to the car). Now, to pull the tranny, do the RMS seal and IMS upgrade, new clutch, and put it all back together, figure another $3k. So, realistically, if you JUST pulled the gearbod and had the syncro fixed, you might get out the door for as low as $2k. If you do it right, and replace/ upgrade everything in there, figure $5k.

The bodywork bit is no big deal, as it's just paint.

Now, the lack of records is not the best situation.

Unless the car is truly priced attractively, I'd keep looking. Were it me, I wouldn't want anything but an 03/04 S.

http://stuttgartperformance.rpmware.com/rss/rss_tarmac_series_lower_control_arms/357/i-398277.aspx

Has anyone used these. They look superior to the factory GT3/ Motorsport control arms, as they are billet and, more importantly, monoball (which are serviceable at that), and for barely anymore $ than the factory part. Set of 4 winds up being almost $2k though :(

I wouldn't even dream of trying this with the motor in the car. You can pull the motor so easily on these cars, just get it out, get it in the stand, and get to work. I would pull both heads, have them both pressure checked, at operating temperature, and have the heads rebuilt. You will new new head gaskets and new head bolts, among a bunch of odd seals. YOu will also need the timing tools to re-time the engine.

I've seen a few Boxsters and 996's with blown head gaskets, but it's VERY rare.

They are completely compatible. No issues at all.

The reservoir has an O ring on its neck, and it can leak past the O ring if it is damaged. Also the neck of the reservoir is just a plastic piece, so be sure the flanges are still there. More likely, it is just not on right.

The way the reservoir goes on and locks is not intuitive, and not attaching the reservoir correctly was a source of leaks for me. If I remember correctly, you had to push it down and then turn it something like a 1/4 turn. It has been a while. Don't remember precisely.

If you have the reservoir removed, study the connection and you will see how it goes on. It was not easy to get on right. But once you get it right, you get a vague feeling that it is locked into place.

Further, I found power steering fluid was pushing out the top of the cap through the little overflow hose under lots of revs on the track. I mistook that for a leak. I added a length of hose to the overflow hose and ran it to a plastic water bottle I wire tied to the inside of the engine bay.

Those connections are an absurd design, and more than likely are leaking because they aren't on correctly, or the seals are damaged or missing. I'd start there.

I just realized that I made a mistake when I made the comment about Wheel Enhancement. The company (who is also highly regarded by many), was Wheel Dynamics.

Here is the original thread on 6speed:

http://www.6speedonl...ust-see-20.html

Has anyone played with the adjustable trailing arms? I think I'm going to be stuck using the GT3 lower control arms and adjustable track arms (thinking Tarret).

WIth my right rear camber adjustment maxed out, I am only getting -.9 to -1, and by then the toe is WAY off. I know that I'll need adjustable toe arms, but it'd be nice to avoid having to buy GT3 control arms....

Had the Boxster on the rack today, trying to get some baseline numbers before I lower it on PSS9's, and noticed that my right rear, even adjusted as far negative as it will go, I am only getting -.7 degrees of camber. The left adjuster lets me go from -.9 to -2. I am suspecting either a damaged/ bent lower control arm or rear track arm.

Porsche has the motorsport adjustable control arms (unfortunately BIG money) and Tarret (and I'm sure a few others) make adjustable trailing arms and rear track arms, but how much of this is really going to be needed to get this right?

Input from those in the know would be greatly appreciated.

Who else, besides Tarret Engineering, is making adjustable rear track arms (the lower, diagonal link that is visible from the rear of the car)?

Time for an ignition switch. It's not that bad of a job, but you do need a little tool to get the lock cylinder out of the assembly to put it into the new one.

Email sent- no reply...

Guess we'll give this a try....

I could use a pair of shafts/ pins for a "new style" 996 Carrera cluster.....

No one?

They also come in 18"

Not under a Porsche part # they don't. Personally, I refuse to buy no-name, factory wheel knock-offs. If you want aftermarket, that's fine, there are plenty of reputable brands, but if you want factory wheels, get real factory wheels. That said, real 997 Turbo wheels are a 19x11 in the rear, which you will never fit on a Boxster.

A good portion of what Wheel Enhancement sells are knock-offs, and I recently heard a very disturbing story about a set of wheels that was purchased there.

do you want to sell your "new" type ones ?

Sure, if I manage to get "old" type ones in!