craig(nj)

Vacuum: remove vacuum line at fuel pressure regulator:

-start engine: 0.4-0.6 bar

Fuel pressure:

-stationary engine: 3.8 +or- 0.2 bar

-engine idling: 3.3 +or- 0.2 bar

The early PO software did not take well to variances to intake volume beyond that which it was designed for. Good luck with it, hope this helps.

P1123-O2 sensing adaptation range 1(cyl 1-3) lean limit

P1125- same as above but (cyl 4-6)

Fault areas- fuel presure too high, fuel injector leaking

Check:

-fuel pressure, fuel regulator, vacuum, fuel injector leaks.

I would probably put the factory filtering system back in. Aftermarkets are known to cause problems. The rapid loss of power is probably one of the above mentioned. You may want to check and see if any old codes are stored in the ECU.

Can you post the full code P-4 digits. I'll take a look in my OBD II manual. I was wondering if you might have a bad ignition switch or dirty crank or knock sensor.

The oem filter wrench makes the job much easier. Tool #9204, order #000 721 920 40. I think I paid $14 for it. I believe its driven by a 27mm socket , so have one handy.

Congrats on the purchase, I wish you good luck with it. Here's a couple of suggestions.

1. If you can , post the actual "P code", I"ll look it up in the Boxster OBD II manual. It would not be surprising if the MAF has failed(it may just need cleaning though), its a common issue wiht these cars. They are easy to replace. You may want to check the last time the plugs and fuel filter was replaced, helps to smooth the idle.

2. You may want to try running thicker Mobil1 synthetic oil , say 15w-50. Our 01 smokes more on the thinner stuff we use in the winter, but with the 15w-50 it barely smokes at all(at initial start-up).

Hope this helps, and again good luck with it.

Boxster OBD II Manual part # WKD 483 620

I have a 60 gal. , 6hp sears compressor. Its a pretty good deal for the money but if I had to do it over again. The Ingersoll-Rand units with oil fed motors and 2 stage would be the way to go. You'll find that 1/4 drive ratchets and sand blasters will use alot of CFM. Once you've used airtools, its hard to use anything else. Take a look at www.northerntool.com This may give you some ideas.

I checked the factory Boxster OBD II manuals and for P1123, theysay to check the fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pressure.

I think the Beru's are great plugs but I have changed them twice in our MY 01 2.7 Boxster , in 30k. Seriously doubt they would last 60k. The difference after the new ones are installed is amazing, much smoother.

Hi Robyn, love that yellow. That is just one elegant looking coupe.

Has your car had the updated clutch release put in it. Porsche never put bearings for the release lever in the early short G-50 gearboxes. The fix is somewhat of a painful one(ie not cheap). If the clunk is under load , could be mounts(engine , trans). The rear sway bar mounting brackets also break at the weld(common problem). Tough one to diagnose , without a more detailed description of noise and how/when it occurs. At least this may give you a few points to work from. Hope it helps.

I would try a new socket with valve grinding compound on the end , along with an impact driver and mid - weight hammer. You don't need to hit an impact driver very hard. They are extremely effective at removing stuck bolts.

Here is the order # for the PST-2 Tester: 000 721 958 80, Tool #9588

The replacement battery # PNA 721 045 :beer: