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Posts posted by slant911

  1. If you start up the PST2 with the PC-card removed you can run the program in Simulation Mode. Then you can play to your heart's content without risk of messing anything up.

    Are the modules "active" in this mode? i.e. can you go to the modules and actually get things to happen?

    I have not turned it on with the card removed but after turning it on and not hooked up to a car you really can't go anywhere as none of the modules are "active".


  2. Example of what I'd like to know is what are the options for customizing the alarm, window operations, etc... Creature comfort things. Isn't there something like that which you can do with the PST2?

    EDIT - It's the "coding" menus which really scare me :o

    Side note - I did mess around with the "drive links" in a couple of the modules. It's pretty **** cool to turn fans on and off and the like :) (like a kid in a candy store)

  3. Too bad for you... the Porsche (NA) Tech training classes used to be in Las Vegas. I think they are only in Atlanta now - but then you would need to get hired by a dealership first. ;)

    Ask your questions here and some folks that are more familiar with the tools will try to answer them.


    There are a ton of helpful people here and at the time I don't have any specific questions. More or less just want to know what all the menus do. Certainly I could follow the shop manuals which have the PST2 keystrokes in them but didn't really want to go through 2000+ pages :o

  4. I saw the other thread which had the PDF file of the operation manual. While that's OK for just getting started there really isn't much good info in there. I am wondering if there is a mnaual or guids that shows what each menu item does. I am scared to go to half the menu items for fear of screwing things up and would like to know before I mess around anymore what each menu item does. Is there anything like that out there??

  5. So how do you get that giant "nut" loose? Some gorilla must have put mine on because it ain't budging. Way too big for any wrench that I am aware of. Of course I don't want to break it as it probably cost $500 for that hunk of plastic.

    Thanks again.

  6. Item 5 is the level sender


    remove the battery and battery tray to expose a black cover plate fixed on by M8 bolts i think? four of them. under that plate is the fuel tank sender unit. unscrew the collar and remove sender.

    mmmm...That part with it's giant screw on collar is located underneath the "service hatch" on my car. No battery removal required. I think?

  7. From the TT service manual:

    "It is impermissible to suck out the fuel through the filler neck, as this can damage the inner flap on the filler neck. Always suck out the fuel through the hole for the fuel level sensor."


    Is the fuel level sender underneath the "service hatch" square thing in the middle of the trunk area?


  8. Sounds crazy but what is the best way to drain the gas tank? I don't believe I can shove a siphon hose down in there because of the electronic flap in there would stop it.

    I need to do the recalibration procedure for the fuel guage which involves draining the tank then putting in a predetermined amount of fuel before the calibration procedure.


  9. There are two bands that have tightening hardware.....loosen the bands and slide them to the outside on each side. I fought with them for about 30 minutes before I realized that all I had to do was slide them to the side....no need to completely disconnect the clamps. Once they have been moved over to the side, the muffler should come loose so be ready to take the weight....make sure you disconnect the O2 sensors and put them up and out of the way so you don't rip the wires off when the muffler drops.

    I'm in the same situation. I'm just about to install my fabspeed. Have been looking at the bolts holding the exhaust onto the turbo's and they look very rusty. Have tried giving them a quick turn but they are solid.

    Have u got any tips re getting these off. Did you heat them up ?


    I sprayed some PB Blaster on those 8 bolts the night before I was rerady to tackle the project so they soaked overnight. Bolts came right off no problems at all.

  10. Anyone have any ideas about how to solve this problem?

    2 months ago I had a Porsche dealer look up the PCM and Navigation codes for my PCM unit (fitted in a 2001 996tt) based on the serial number on the back of the PCM unit. These codes were entered and the unit worked perfectly.

    I recently had the two diverter valves replaced and during this time the battery link in the engine bay was removed, with the result that the PCM unit is now prompting me to enter these two codes again. The problem is that the numbers that were originally entered to enable the unit 2 months ago are no longer working!

    The only thing that has happened since the original entry of these numbers is that I purchased a Porsche map CD-ROM that mentioned that it was upgrading the navigation software when I first used it. Could this be causing the probem?

    Any ideas on how to resolve this would be most appreciated (the dealer has never experienced this before...).

    Hate to ask something stupid, but could the numbers you are entering be backwards. In other words the number you thought should be the first number actually be the second number?

  11. Skymast,

    Dive on in and do the DV's. I was intimidated by the DIY also, but once I got in there it isn't bad. Hardest part is that it's a tiny space and my big hands were raw after the experience. I really took my time and i was done in about 2 - 2 1/2 hours. If you follow the instructions here http://www.turbo911.com/showthread.php?t=287 you will be fine. Get yourself some long needle nose with a 45 degree bend in them. Got mine at Sears (about $12).

    One other thing....They show a couple of washers underneath the battery post. That didn't work too well for me. The front valve still rubbed on the back of that post. I went to a local specialty hardware place and got some hard black palstic spacers that were 10MM deep and 2 new longer allen head bolts and in my opinion is a much better solution than the washers.

  12. Changing ECU's is not as easy as you might think. Yes the physical changing is easy, but you'll need your local dealer each time you do it as they are "programmed" to the car. A much better solution IMHO is to do Ultimate Motorwerks flash. No need to send anything (except money :) ). Kevin sends back a litttle programmer that plugs into the OBD port. The programmer has stock file, 1 bar boost file, and valet file. You can even get a race gas file and as you upgrade to different turbos or whatever he changes the program for you. It's so easy I'm not sure why anyone would still be taking their ECU's out to send someone to be soldered on. The thought just sacres the sh** out of me.

  13. I don't believe that DIY will work for you on a TT. There appears to be a bunch more items to get out of your way before you can get that reservoir tank out. I haven't done it, but clearly the pics are of a boxter or NA 996. In fact think I heard at one time a partial engine drop is required to get the massive tank out of there on the TT.

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