dcporsche99

Had a similar problem about a month or two ago and the folks on the forum helped me out. After I had replaced all the plugs and coil packs I had a different misfire / CEL light. As a few of the folks noted earlier----- just double & triple check the coil on the spark plug for cylinder #2. If you tug on it lightly you may find that the coil actually didn't click onto the spark plug.

Anyway, good luck with that. Let us know what happens.

Cheers,

Dana

Good point Chris. As for the MAF and TB, I have to take the hardtop off to get to it. I don't have time to get to that until next week.

Just finished changing out all the plugs, coils, and cleaning 'er up. I figured I might as well do them all since they were due for a change (re: over 60K on the clock). Actually, while I was checking cylinder #2, I did find that I had not connected the wire correctly to the coil (re: Thanks for the heads up on the "snap")....hence, my repeated misfire on cylinder #2. So, for good measure I made sure to hear and see the coil snap into place.

Having done this, should I now clear the codes via OBD II AND take off the negative cable from the battery to reset the DME?? Or will just taking the negative cable off from the battery do both?? I'd like to take it for a test drive in the morning. I still have to buy the Techron. Is there only one type?? Can I purchase this at Autozone or Walmart??

TIA!

Edit: BTW, that cylinder #1 plug was a PIA! Thank goodness for the swiveling ratchet head.

Dana:

Disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for one full minute will do the trick.

You can pick up Techron at Autozone, as well as Pep Boys or Advance Auto Parts on Long Island. It comes in two sizes. The smaller size is sufficient for the size of a Boxster gas tank. As Chris said, it's a good idea to run the Techron just before an oil change.

Regards, Maurice.

Great! Thanks for the info Maurice! Will do.

As an update:

Car is running well since I did the change out of the plugs and coils. But, I still have to get some Techron and change the oil. BTW, I was hoping to go with a thicker oil. I noticed that when I changed the oil & filter last season with 0W40 that my little drops were more frequent after a spirited drive. Any suggestions would be appreciated. edit: Looked up Toolpants' thread that entertained the idea of the non-Porsche approved Mobil 1 15W50 w/c I will try out this season.

Also, I had my bro help me take off the hardtop last weekend. But, it was only just yesterday that I was able to open up the engine compartment to take a good look. I was happily suprised to find that the compartment was clean (TB..etc.) and that the previous owner had already changed out the AOS to the updated version. So, I'll hold on to the AOS replacement & parts for the future since I've read that it holds up on the average of 50K? Is that right?? Thanks for the offer Maurice! Hope the offer still stands in the future ; ) edit: looks like I may have spoke to soon---just double-checking---w/c configuration is the updated version?? From Mike Focke's website I understood it to be the vertical (circular part) as the updated and the horizontal config as the outdated version. I found some conflicting info so, please do let me know.

Anyway, the only thing that I replaced yesterday was my air filter (w/c I had ordered over a year ago and almost forgot I had). Anyone have a "True Flow" filter?? I noticed that it had been oiled / conditioned and so, I wiped off the excess before I installed it. Hopefully, it doesn't screw up my MAF. edit:It was suggested that I go back to the stock air filter. After reading a few threads, I concur with his suggestions. Thanks Maurice!

Thanks in advance.

Good point Chris. As for the MAF and TB, I have to take the hardtop off to get to it. I don't have time to get to that until next week.

Just finished changing out all the plugs, coils, and cleaning 'er up. I figured I might as well do them all since they were due for a change (re: over 60K on the clock). Actually, while I was checking cylinder #2, I did find that I had not connected the wire correctly to the coil (re: Thanks for the heads up on the "snap")....hence, my repeated misfire on cylinder #2. So, for good measure I made sure to hear and see the coil snap into place.

Having done this, should I now clear the codes via OBD II AND take off the negative cable from the battery to reset the DME?? Or will just taking the negative cable off from the battery do both?? I'd like to take it for a test drive in the morning. I still have to buy the Techron. Is there only one type?? Can I purchase this at Autozone or Walmart??

TIA!

Edit: BTW, that cylinder #1 plug was a PIA! Thank goodness for the swiveling ratchet head.

Dana:

Disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for one full minute will do the trick.

You can pick up Techron at Autozone, as well as Pep Boys or Advance Auto Parts on Long Island. It comes in two sizes. The smaller size is sufficient for the size of a Boxster gas tank. As Chris said, it's a good idea to run the Techron just before an oil change.

Regards, Maurice.

Great! Thanks for the info Maurice! Will do.

I'm still looking for a good independent mechanic in Richmond.

Chris

Chris,

I think I saw your car in the dealer (Euroclassics) back in October/November. Did you buy from them or the private owner? They were working on the tranny then.

If you find a good independent here in Richmond, please share with me. There's a Porsche club here (they call themselves that) called the "First Settlers Club". I can't get ANY response from them to allow me to post on their forum and ask for an independent.

I bought a 97 with 42K on it from a retired American Airlines Mechanic in Chesterfield (the Highlands).

Hey Twoburgers,

Congrats on your ride! Drive it in good health!! :D

Hey tah,

Here's a link that might be useful: http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9615

(You might have to sign up and register first to view it)

If you scroll down the thread you'll see a link for 928 shops that TimAustin contributed to our forum's listing of Porsche mechanics. I believe there are two that might be in your area. However, the listing that I made, w/c incorporates input from all the members---unfortunately, I don't recall any in your area. Please double-check.

Hope it helps!

Cheers, :)

Dana

Cool beans! I think I might take you up on that offer..... I'll let you know how this goes. I appreciate it!

Thanks Maurice!

-Dana

what is the car doing now? have you unplugged the MAF yet/reset the DME yet?

i understand that the previous owner installed a new MAF, but that doesn't mean it's not bad. ;)

Good point Chris. As for the MAF and TB, I have to take the hardtop off to get to it. I don't have time to get to that until next week.

Just finished changing out all the plugs, coils, and cleaning 'er up. I figured I might as well do them all since they were due for a change (re: over 60K on the clock). Actually, while I was checking cylinder #2, I did find that I had not connected the wire correctly to the coil (re: Thanks for the heads up on the "snap")....hence, my repeated misfire on cylinder #2. So, for good measure I made sure to hear and see the coil snap into place.

Having done this, should I now clear the codes via OBD II AND take off the negative cable from the battery to reset the DME?? Or will just taking the negative cable off from the battery do both?? I'd like to take it for a test drive in the morning. I still have to buy the Techron. Is there only one type?? Can I purchase this at Autozone or Walmart??

TIA!

Edit: BTW, that cylinder #1 plug was a PIA! Thank goodness for the swiveling ratchet head.

Thanks Maurice! I'll keep you posted.

Derek

Sorry to hear the news.

Good luck with that Derek!

Let us know what happens.

-Dana

Hey Maurice,

Thanks for the reminder for the AOS DIY. Before I tackle that I'll make sure to go over the DIY online to make certain I have everything. Actually, I'm hoping that my CEL can be taken care of without doing that (re: either of those--AOS and coolant tank) just yet. I'd like to drive the car some before then.

I'm close to Stony Brook University. Maybe when I get to the AOS I'll send you a PM that'll say, "HEEEELLLLLLLLPPPPPPP" :P

Dana:

If you feel intimidated by the AOS and would rather do it by my house, let me know and I'll help you out, anytime.

Drop me a PM and I'll give you my phone number.

I'm in Freeport, a few blocks from the Meadowbrook and Sunrise Highway.

Regards, Maurice.

Cool beans! I think I might take you up on that offer..... I'll let you know how this goes. I appreciate it!

Thanks Maurice!

-Dana

...

Actually, I have the parts already for an AOS install for months now in the anticipation that I would eventually have to do this.

....

-Dana

Dana:

Before you tackle the AOS, make sure that you have a decent pair of hose clamp pliers to deal with the hose clamp at the lower end of the bellows.

I just replaced my AOS, using the aforesaid hose clamp pliers and plastic zip ties and it was pretty straightforward. If you position the car (and yourself) properly, it's not too difficult to access the bellows once the right rear wheel is off.

Where in NY are you located?

Regards, Maurice.

Hey Maurice,

Thanks for the reminder for the AOS DIY. Before I tackle that I'll make sure to go over the DIY online to make certain I have everything. Actually, I'm hoping that my CEL can be taken care of without doing that (re: either of those--AOS and coolant tank) just yet. I'd like to drive the car some before then.

I'm close to Stony Brook University. Maybe when I get to the AOS I'll send you a PM that'll say, "HEEEELLLLLLLLPPPPPPP" :P

Thanks for your thorough advice Chris. Totally appreciate it!

Actually, I have the parts already for an AOS install for months now in the anticipation that I would eventually have to do this. I also have the parts to change out a leaky coolant tank. This CEL was not on my list to do. I was just waiting on some good weather to tackle the DIY of the other stuff.

Awhile back, I had CELs for 02 sensors (re: after I completed my DIY install of my aftermarket headers) and thought it might be the MAF. But I did notice that the MAF had already been changed out by the previous owner. So, I changed out the sensors and the CEL didn't pop up again until now (re: it's been approx. a year to date). Is there a possibility that the aftermarket headers that I installed is related?? Or is this just within the norm of Porsche ownership?? Don't get me wrong,...totally LOVE my car, but I haven't done so much DIY with any other cars....funny, even my SUV (Explorer w/ over 135K) hasn't given me so much unexpected $$ out of pocket...at least, it puts me back into perspective when I think of more mods that I want to do and realize that I should just keep my cash for times like this...... well, enough of this rant....I feel a little bit better now. :P

Thanks again.

-Dana

Congrats! Really nice!!

Enjoy your new ride! :)

-Dana

I've had P0300 P0301 intermittently for about 8 months now. Took it in to local Porsche dealer a couple of times but they couldn't find any problems. Now I just use my Durametric to reset to codes whenever they pop up. But I think they are getting more frequent

Derek

Hey Derek,

Thanks for the input....Sorry to hear that they can't find a problem, though I'm sure they were happy to charge you each time. Hope you can find out what the trouble is.

Found this online for you:

P0300 Misfire Damaging to Catalytic Converter

P0301 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Damaging to Catalytic Converter

Well, IMHO, I don't have too much trust in the dealership...unless of course I don't have a choice.

Anyway, why don't you try to change out the plug and/or the coil yourself and see if that fixes it??

Good luck with that. :)

Thanks Loren. Appreciate the quick response. :)

I will try to check the resistance on those items....although I have never done that before.

It's just weird that the other bank would pop up with codes when I didn't have that before I changed the plug and the coil pack. Throwing codes after having fixed one....what a PIA??

Hi,

Could use some help with a few codes please. :(

My car is a 1999 2.5 Boxster (Tip) with over 60K.

A quick history---my car had been sitting for a few weeks. I had it on a trickle charger for a couple hours prior. When I started 'er up I heard a ticking sound on the passenger's side rear. It sounded like a sticky lifter. Anyway, I warmed it up to operating temp and took the car out for a quick spin around the block. I got a flashing CEL w/c then turned solid (2X). The car also began to stutter and run poorly at low RPMs. I also got a whiff of a faint "burnt" smell when driving back home. My OBD II reader showed P302 and P1314 (re: misfire cylinder 2). From my research on the forum.....long story short, bought new Beru plugs and a few coilpacks for good measure.

Today, after 2 wks I finally had the time to change out the coil and plug (cylinder #2). The cylinder was dry and the plug looked like it did need to be changed. But the coil looked intact---although I will take a closer look. So, afterwards I reset the codes and started it up. Again, I heard a ticking, but this time on the driver's side. I warmed it up and I took it out for a test drive and these are my new codes below. Again, the car was running poorly and stuttering on idle.

Here are the current codes:

P300

P302

P304

P319

P314

P316

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!

-Dana

I replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors this winter and got the same codes P1117 and P1121 with P1115 and P1119 pending. They were Bosch's 13806 as well with original fitment. The CEL comes and goes. I'm thinking of putting my old ones back to see if the codes will go away and stay away.

wow; what pieces of crap. you figure when you use the more expensive german part, it should work better than the generic cheap part. apparently not. i guess i'll just have to figure out what resistor i need to run in parallel with the sensor to clear the code. once i figure this out, i'll post back here.

Hey Insite,

Try removing them and reconnecting them 180 degrees. It might just be that the pin connections are backwards.

Hope it works!

is that even possible?

Hey Insite,

From my experience it is possible to install them backwards. I did a write up on 986forum showing the subtle differences between the Walker and Bosch brand for my 2.5 Boxster (at least in my case----used Walker brand---BTW, been very happy with them) regarding the wiring and the different contact points.....

...anyway, it wouldn't hurt to try it on one of them and reset your CEL and see if the code pops up again. If it doesn't work....then, maybe mine were just an anomaly.

I replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors this winter and got the same codes P1117 and P1121 with P1115 and P1119 pending. They were Bosch's 13806 as well with original fitment. The CEL comes and goes. I'm thinking of putting my old ones back to see if the codes will go away and stay away.

wow; what pieces of crap. you figure when you use the more expensive german part, it should work better than the generic cheap part. apparently not. i guess i'll just have to figure out what resistor i need to run in parallel with the sensor to clear the code. once i figure this out, i'll post back here.

Hey Insite,

Try removing them and reconnecting them 180 degrees. It might just be that the pin connections are backwards.

Hope it works!

Sorry to hear....ouch!! :o Is that the crud (around the mesh) that collected??

Good luck with that!

Thanks for sharing!!

Welcome to the forum! :)

Enjoy your ride! Looks like you've already been bitten by the bug!

Best Regards,

Dana

BTW, sent you a message!

If you want to be sure (and you should be!) have a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) done by a respectable specialized Porsche shop. I cannot emphasize enough how important that is. FYI, if you buy the car and the engine (cracks?) blow up in notime you're looking at 10-15K costs to repair!

What should be one of the best experiences (to own a Porsche) will become a nightmare. Take it from someone who learned the hard way.. ;-) (just very persistant.. haha).

Don't mess around with Durametric software (with this tool you can dig intro the computer and such), but have the DME and all electrical stuff onboard read out by whomever is performing the PPI. There is a lot that can be wrong with the car without you even noticing it and could potentionally be very expensive to repair!

Just make sure you do your PPI, then you'll be fine..

+1 on the PPI. There's A LOT of cars out there for sale....so, take the time to check it out thoroughly! Good luck! :)

the tire sizes are ... 245/35-19 front and 275/30-19 rears.... Thanks for the advise....

Based on the advise I was given, I would think your pressures should be more like 35 psi front 40 psi rear. You may need to tweak from there, but that should be a good starting point.

Well done! :)

Thanks for the discussion, folks. It sounds like we're all dealing with the same sort of issues. And it's very helpful to hear how others have solved them.

I have been procrastinating on finishing the header replacement on my car for several reasons.

On both sides I got the nuts off with considerable effort (torch, dremel, etc.) and on both sides the cat refused to separate from the header. The driver's side eventually separated after a bunch of driving with no nuts holding them together. After it separated I put on a single nut to hold it on until I'm ready to complete the job. However, I found that after less than a month the nut (which came with the aftermarket headers I got from eBay) is completely corroded.

So I will get better quality nuts and bolts to hold the headers before I will complete this job. There is no point in using cheap quality fasteners given the amount of time and money we have spent on the rest of the job.

I am also debating the merits of heat wrapping the headers before installing them. I am also considering having them ceramic coated.

I have been driving with no nuts holding the passenger side header to the cat and even after a couple of weeks it hasn't separated. It looks like I will have to use more brute force to get it off.

Thanks for the thoughtful DIY, Dana.

Hey Stefan,

You are welcome! Thanks for the props!!

Glad to hear you're almost done...+1 on high quality fasteners!

Not sure about heat wrapping the headers completely or ceramic coating them. From what I hear, they increase the amount of heat going to the cats that may cause premature cat failure(s). Unfortunately, I don't have any literature to substantiate this so, .....but I'm sure you'll do your homework on those options.... as you know I just wrapped selected areas on my passenger's side header as a matter of necessity.

Anyway, as for the "header to cat" issue...I'm impressed that it held up from the drive! :D As I mentioned in my PM to you, IMHO, I would give them a heavy dose of PB blaster...maybe it will help loosen some of the rust where they meet.

Keep us posted!! :)

-Dana

Good luck there Jinster!

Please let us know about your progress! Hope it worked out well for you!

Would love to see pics of your DIY. :)

-Dana

I forsee a new engine in your near future. Could be a couple of things, such as the porous block problem, a slipped sleeve, or a bad oil cooler. I would have it towed to your nearest dealership.

There are quite a few articles on the site about that problem. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15003

Good luck with that JamesD! Keep us posted!

Nice write up Dana! Sorry for slow response. Here's a pic of the top bolt on the passenger side that I was talking about. Note the three washers on the cat side. Also note (not related to the pic), make sure you tighten the nut on the bung of the header. The after-market header that I bought was made for either the Boxster or Boxster-S, so it had a bung for installing O2 sensor (for Boxster-S). I figured it was tight from factory so I didn't bother; well it rattled OFF during my morning commute. I didn't have an extra plug so I was in a bind. No local source had it and overnight delivery from Pelican was going to be $50. Since it was made for an O2 sensor, I simply installed an old O2 sensor I had from previous R&R. It sealed fine and I am driving her around until the plug comes.

The R&R was definitely worth it. The car sounds soooo much better. The exhaust no longer sounds like an indistinguishable loud vacuum cleaner but has more tone to it. The car also accelerates better. The slight hesitation in 2nd gear is now completely gone. This will keep me happy for at least 2 weeks :D

Hey Hung,

No prob. Thanks!! Nice pic!

Definitely a bit of difference in sound.... and the ride has a bit more zip to it, huh?? :P

Glad it all worked out for you. Enjoy!

Finally got the driver side finished. Now I know what all the fuss was about. The pressed in bolts were a pain to remove but thanks to Dana's and Stefan's suggestions of heating with propane and using a B.A.H. it only took about 1 hour to remove. At least I don't have to go do weights at the gym today; after swinging that B.A.H. at the bolts. It has gotten cold and dark so I haven't put the underbody panel back on yet. Needless to say I haven't driven her around although I did fire her up. The sound is different but I can't quite pinpoint what the difference is. Perhaps tomorrow when I'm driving her around, celebrating MLK Day.

One thing of note: the bolt holes on the cat side fits the bolt just right while on the after-market header side it is oblong, allowing for minor location adjustments. Because of this I think it is better to feed the bolt through the cat-side flange towards the headers. This way the neck of the bolt (unthreaded) fits almost perfectly inside the holes on the cat-side flange. Besides, this is the only way I could do it for the top bolt because of interference from the VarioCam housing. I also noticed that the top bolt sticks out too far through the header flange and comes awfully close to that VarioCam housing. I imagine that vibration from engine and road may cause the assembly to move enough so that the bolt could rub against the VariaCam housing. To "shorten" the bolt, I simply added washers on the cat-side; at the head of the bolt. This way more of the bolt is on the cat-side and less sticks out on the header side. You have to play with the number of washers to get enough of the bolt away from the VarioCam housing and still have enough threads for the nut. I'll take some pics and post tomorrow.

Hung

Nice job Hung! How's your ride now?? Hope you're enjoying your mod! :P

Interesting way of solving that issue.,,,,but, why not just shorten the bolt with a dremel? BTW, now that I think about it, how did you manage to fit a long bolt (for the top of the passenger's side flange) from the cat side to the header without the housing getting in the way?? From my recollection, there's not much room to fit much of anything. If you added washers on the cat side, surely there wouldn't be room to get washers and a bolt in there at such a tight angle.... :o WOW, I'm amazed! Do you have a picture?? I'm just curious as to what it looks like. I've added a crappy picture of the area I'm talking about ---it's encircled in yellow....maybe we're talking about different things entirely... :)

Hi,

...BTW, I was getting quite a few number of folks asking me for this DIY header install PDF. I didn't know where else to post it, so Loren feel free to move it around as you see fit.

I also posted this on 986forum.

Hope this helps others! :thumbup:

diy_for_header_install.pdf

Finally got the driver side finished. Now I know what all the fuss was about. The pressed in bolts were a pain to remove but thanks to Dana's and Stefan's suggestions of heating with propane and using a B.A.H. it only took about 1 hour to remove. At least I don't have to go do weights at the gym today; after swinging that B.A.H. at the bolts. It has gotten cold and dark so I haven't put the underbody panel back on yet. Needless to say I haven't driven her around although I did fire her up. The sound is different but I can't quite pinpoint what the difference is. Perhaps tomorrow when I'm driving her around, celebrating MLK Day.

One thing of note: the bolt holes on the cat side fits the bolt just right while on the after-market header side it is oblong, allowing for minor location adjustments. Because of this I think it is better to feed the bolt through the cat-side flange towards the headers. This way the neck of the bolt (unthreaded) fits almost perfectly inside the holes on the cat-side flange. Besides, this is the only way I could do it for the top bolt because of interference from the VarioCam housing. I also noticed that the top bolt sticks out too far through the header flange and comes awfully close to that VarioCam housing. I imagine that vibration from engine and road may cause the assembly to move enough so that the bolt could rub against the VariaCam housing. To "shorten" the bolt, I simply added washers on the cat-side; at the head of the bolt. This way more of the bolt is on the cat-side and less sticks out on the header side. You have to play with the number of washers to get enough of the bolt away from the VarioCam housing and still have enough threads for the nut. I'll take some pics and post tomorrow.

Hung

Nice job Hung! How's your ride now?? Hope you're enjoying your mod! :P

Interesting way of solving that issue.,,,,but, why not just shorten the bolt with a dremel? BTW, now that I think about it, how did you manage to fit a long bolt (for the top of the passenger's side flange) from the cat side to the header without the housing getting in the way?? From my recollection, there's not much room to fit much of anything. If you added washers on the cat side, surely there wouldn't be room to get washers and a bolt in there at such a tight angle.... :o WOW, I'm amazed! Do you have a picture?? I'm just curious as to what it looks like. I've added a crappy picture of the area I'm talking about ---it's encircled in yellow....maybe we're talking about different things entirely... :)