frafoss

I have owned a C2 and C2S. I have tested both with driftbox and the figures for these to cars is acutally the same. I didn't believe it my self. The C2S actually was with FVD flashtuning, 200 cells cats, sportexhaust. The C2 was stock with PSE only. The C2 was actually faster in straight line than a C4S with powerkit...

For driving in Sweden the C2 is more than enough. How do I know? Because I'm from Norway.

Frank,

I got the filters at FVD Brombacher. (954) 571 2050. Ask for Rhonda.

The part No. is 470 468 20 BMC Sport Air Filter 977 X51.

I have never had a problem with them. Just don't over oil them. (They come pre oiled and are just right from the factory.)

I would recommend them over the stock X51 filters for both quality and performance.

Wayne

Wayne,

Thanks for you help. I will order on monday.

Hi;

I have considered all options for performance. (I don't like turbo, and superchargers/ chips void your warranty.)

I really prefer both the sound and response of naturally aspirated engines.

I have a 2008 997S and have been very successful with HP/ performance gains by adding the following: 1)Fabspeed headers/ mufflers, 2)X-51 Carbon Fiber Airbox with new X-51 throttle body, 3)BMC air filters.

You can do all of this for about $5K if you do the install yourself.

I have not dyno'ed the changes but can guarantee you will be satisfied with the "seat of the pants" test. I have road tested by comparing to the new 997-2 (385HP) and smoked the new 997 in both 1/4 mile and track time.

0-60 times are 3.9 sec., 1/4 mile 12.2@116mph. (This is pretty darn close to GT3 specs.)

This would be my recommendation for HP/ Performance enhancements.

Wayne

Wayne, I see that you have BMC air filters for you X51 carbon airbox. Where did you get this and do you have a part #? Some people report troube with their MAF after installing KN + BMC airfilters. Have you noticed any problem?

Thanks.

Frank

I bought a US launch car and imported it to Europe last year. From the dealer and Carfax report I was told that the car was bought back by Porsche because of a oil leak. The car got a new engine and they sold it again. For me this wasnt any problem since I got a engine with less miles.

So to my question. Who can I contact to get this information confirmed? I have tried contacting the seller but this dealer is not very helpfull.

http://www.paintscratch.com/

Great website, you even find the colour code to your car if you are not sure.

I know this sounds a little lame, but I cannot find a store where I can buy the 19" Nokian WR tires that are approved for a Carrera S (as set out in the TSB). I am looking for anywhere in the Pacific Northwest (Seattleish area). From the Nokian website, it looks like Tirefactory is the exclusive distributor in this area. But I have called 4 of their stores and not one has known what I'm talking about (which makes me think the tires are not in their computers). They can find the fronts in the "WR G2" model, but not the rears (because they don't come in 295 for the "WR all weather plus").

Anyone know something I don't? Where can I buy these from?

PS: They don't appear to be sold online either.

The Nokian tyres are actually very good winter tyres. Very good grip and quite stable even at high speed on dry tarmac. Much better than the recommended Michelin Alpin.

You should ask for these specs:

WR 295/30 R19 100V XL N0

WR 235/35 R19 87V N0

They are very easy to get in Europe.

Hi guys. I live in the Pacific Northwest and use the 997S to get to and from work (~ 50% highway, 50% city driving), and for some moderately-spirited weekend fun when dry (no tracking). I don't plan on driving it in the snow, which does not happen much where I live. Instead, we get a lot of rain. So I'm trying to decide whether to get a non-approved all-season tire (RE960AS) or an approved summer tire (PS2) and just drive much more carefully in the rain. I currently have PS2s that I will have to replace soon, but just got the car and haven't had a chance to test them through our "wet season" (which is pretty much all-year long except for a brief period in the summer).

The trouble I'm having is that I've searched the threads here and elsewhere (and read websites like tirerack.com, etc.), but I can't seem to find a direct comparison of "Ultra High Performance All-Season" vs. a "Max Performance Summer" tires. I'm trying to understand, for example, how a 9.0 "wet performance" rating in one category would compare to another. I'm assuming the ratings differ across categories of tires on a relative basis? I'd love to see cross-category comparisons so I can see how much I'm sacrificing in each category.

Bottom line is that I'd sacrifice some dry-weather performance for improved wet-weather performance. Will the RE960AS be significantly better than the PS2s in wet weather/resistance to hydroplaning? If so, will they then be significantly worse than the PS2s in dry weather handling? I'm not pushing the car to it's limits by any stretch of the imagination, but I don't want to end up with a car that doesn't handle like a "Porsche", because of the all-season tires, for the occasional times on dry pavement that I want it to.

Any thoughts?

I don't know the performance of the RE960AS, but I guess this is a Bridgestone tyre. Anyway, unless the the PS2 are worn down the wet performance of the PS2 is excellent. The traction and grip is far better than most people ever will know. In Norway we got a lot of rain and too and I have alse tested the PS2 at Nurburgring when raining with speeds above 200 km/h without problems with hydroplaning.

For your use and condition you should be very satiisfied with the Michelins.

I didn't see a thread about this so I am going to start it. I am a car electronics junkie and the 2009 997's have everything that I was going to go to get done so I have decided to trash my after market job and replace my 2006 997 C4S that already has Navi with the new improved 2009 system that has ipod adapter, XM, Navi with traffic and Bluetooth. I will keep you guys updated on my progress as it happens with pics and let you know all the parts that you will have to buy as well as the cost to have it done at the dealer.

If anyone else is interested in this mod update, please post here so we can have a unified informational outlet for this big update.

Thanks!

Perfect. Keep us updated and good luck :D

I hav got fault code DME 140.

What does this mean?

What kind of swaybars did you install?

I am looking for some feedback on upgrading the suspension on MY06 Carrera coupe. My car has PASM and I am looking at Bilstein PSS9 (for PASM), H&R (Eibach) lowering springs, or Factory ROW (?) suspension. I don't want to make the ride significantly stiffer but I do want to lower slightly more without losing the ride flexibility that the PASM offers. I'm considering probably no more than 1 or 2 DE's. Total cost is also a consideration (both labor and materials). Thanks in advance for your input.

Bilstein PSS

If the difference isn't big you shouldn't worry to much. I'm on my second 997 now, both without accident, and both have a difference at the rears left and right. On both cars it seems that the rear right wheel is about 3-4 mm wider. My curret car has been aligned and corner weighted.

If you use a turbo rear bumper on standard carrera dont you have any clearance issues

with the mufflers? Or are you going to use a custom exhaust system? I'd love to see some pictures

of the turbo bumper on your carrera :D

that after it ritche to me on October 2008 from now i plane for many things.

Thanks for that knowledge kubota.

?????? :huh:

Recently when installing the x-51 Air box I found it necessary to remove the plenum to allow me to install the oil filler tube.

I noticed a coating of oil inside the the plenum that seems excessive.

Anybody have an Idea as to what could be defective to cause this? I would have expected to find some but not as much as I found.

I'm also doing the X-51 airbox install in short time. Earlier information says that you need to remove the alternator to install the oil filler tube. Can I do the install of the oil filler tube by removing the plenum? Is it a easy install?

Besides the Cutting the hole in the lid which is apain the Oil tube install is as much or a bigger pain. You really do need to take out the alternator and I found taking out the plenum helped me get to the back screw on the filler tube and the nut on the main wire to the alternator. The problem with the alternator is where the Main approx. 4" bolt holds it on the mount. The tolerances between the mount and the Alternator around this bolt are very tight. This requires some careful wedging etc to pry the alt out then some careful hammering with a Rubber mallet to put it back in. I found my 1/4" ratchet and extensions valuable in this installation. You will also need a set of female Torx sockets to do this job. The screws on MAF are special and either require a special tool or in my case I used a small pare of vise grips to get them out. You may want to find some replacements for these before you get started. Instructions on removing and reinstalling the plenum can be found here. http://roadsportsupply.com/PDFs/IPD/Plenum...97300_97301.pdf

Good luck. No regrets on my part. Hopefully you have checked out my other posts on the install too.

Thanks a lot for your information. I will check you post about the install.

Merry christmas :)

Recently when installing the x-51 Air box I found it necessary to remove the plenum to allow me to install the oil filler tube.

I noticed a coating of oil inside the the plenum that seems excessive.

Anybody have an Idea as to what could be defective to cause this? I would have expected to find some but not as much as I found.

I'm also doing the X-51 airbox install in short time. Earlier information says that you need to remove the alternator to install the oil filler tube. Can I do the install of the oil filler tube by removing the plenum? Is it a easy install?

...well heard back from my local Porsche Center in Cardiff, UK and the comlpete X51 'Air Cleaner' costs £638 GBP and that doesn't include 'Air Box' (inlet pipe) or extra gasket for lid and X51 oil filler pipe. Cutting the lid seems no biggy with provided template but that oil filler pipe looks a right bugga to remove and change and I know someone on here mentioned about removing the alternator but that looks pretty complex for a D.I.Y.'er?

They did mention some discout on the parts but not sure what type of gains are to be had just for fitting this alone without the engine mods. Had PSE installed after I took the car so enjouying the benefits of that already.

Watch this space I guess...

D

well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker.

next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now.

Did you need to replace the MAF stock wiring harness to X51 when installing? Some people report that the standard wiring is to short.

...well heard back from my local Porsche Center in Cardiff, UK and the comlpete X51 'Air Cleaner' costs £638 GBP and that doesn't include 'Air Box' (inlet pipe) or extra gasket for lid and X51 oil filler pipe. Cutting the lid seems no biggy with provided template but that oil filler pipe looks a right bugga to remove and change and I know someone on here mentioned about removing the alternator but that looks pretty complex for a D.I.Y.'er?

They did mention some discout on the parts but not sure what type of gains are to be had just for fitting this alone without the engine mods. Had PSE installed after I took the car so enjouying the benefits of that already.

Watch this space I guess...

D

well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker.

next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now.

How do I remove the alternator? Do I need any special tools?

All tips are welcome :)

Alternator wasn't taken out by my mechanic, he just took off the belt, it moved down a bit and he was able to get his hands in there to do the job.

Thanks :)

...well heard back from my local Porsche Center in Cardiff, UK and the comlpete X51 'Air Cleaner' costs £638 GBP and that doesn't include 'Air Box' (inlet pipe) or extra gasket for lid and X51 oil filler pipe. Cutting the lid seems no biggy with provided template but that oil filler pipe looks a right bugga to remove and change and I know someone on here mentioned about removing the alternator but that looks pretty complex for a D.I.Y.'er?

They did mention some discout on the parts but not sure what type of gains are to be had just for fitting this alone without the engine mods. Had PSE installed after I took the car so enjouying the benefits of that already.

Watch this space I guess...

D

well i finished my install , of the x51 intake and the headers. the alternator removal was a pain, it just would not come out, but once again the forum helped me out, the bushing on the alternator gets rusted, so it wont budge, but few bang with the hammer on the bolt it loosened up the bushing an the alternator came righ out. oil filler pipe swap was a breeze. just be patient. impresse witht the results, car now has a better throttle respones, and slightly quicker.

next is the 20 mm euro sports supsension. I have assembled all the suspension outside the car, just have to swap it now.

How do I remove the alternator? Do I need any special tools?

All tips are welcome :)

I did not extend the wire. It is tight, but fine. If I wanted to make it longer I could separate it a little from the wires it is taped to.

Thanks!!

Can you post a picture of your your wire. Would like to see how tight the wire is, before deciding to get a new or not.

The airbox is around $700, the deck seal $10, the inlet hose around $50. I'm also going to add the air mass sensor wire extention as soon as it arrives from Germany. The stock airmass sensor is a direct fit but the stock wiring harness could be a little longer. The only item I have not addressed yet is the oil filler tube. I purchased the X-51 oil filler tube because it's shorter than the stock tube which does not fit up perfectly to the new airbox. The only problem is I can't figure out how to unbolt the stock oil filler tube without dropping the engine. If your hands are smaller maybe it could be accomplished but I can barely fit my hands deep enough to feel the oil filler bolts let alone actually get a socket on them. I'll take some pictures when I get a chance.

Is the air mass sensor wire exetention necessary? To you who has done the installation, can you post a picture of the wire?

are you positive the rattle is inside? rattles very often come from the door latch. a piece of duct tape on the U shaped piece towards the outside will help you eliminate that possibility.

I'm pretty sure that that the rattle is from the inside. When I push (hard) the door trim around the area of the door handle handle the rattle disappear.

Can sombody help me with a DIY or tips/picture, how I remove and install the door trim panel? I need to fix a rattle on the inside which drive me nuts.

Has someone tried fitting the wide body C4 wheels (offset 51mm) to a C2 narrow body car?

Does it fit? Pictures please?

Try Autosol. Your pipes will look as new.

I have the 997 C2 and would like top upgrade to some bigger brakes like the 997C2S/997 TT or similiar. How can I do this? I have heard that the fasten points to wheel carriers are different.

I see that the PCCB are available as kit for both C2 and C2S. Are these different?