FrayAdjacent986

I used the oven method to remove the clear cover on the headlights of my previous car. Very commonly done to remove the amber turn signal lense (luckily on THAT car, it was not part of the clear lense.

About 120 degrees for 10-15 minutes should get it open. Much hotter might start melting the plastic.

Friday when I was going to the doc's office to get my shots (immunotherapy), when I accelerated out of a light, the dreaded Check Engine light came on! CRAP.

Went to a couple auto shops to see if I could get the code read... one shop didn't have their unit and another shop's unit wouldn't read the code. So I ended up going to a buddy's house who has a scanner and got the code. P1129. I believe he had gotten the same code along with a P1128 from his 996 when he had it a couple years ago, and it turned out to be a failing MAF.

I cleared the code and drove the car plenty over the weekend, even got on it pretty hard... and the code has not returned.

I figure I'll go ahead and remove the MAF and clean it. I went ahead and dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank in case there was some sort of lean situation caused by dirty injectors or something. Given the car was pretty dirty when I got it, it wouldn't surprise me if the fuel system isn't the cleanest.

Anyone have any similar behavior? A P1129 or similar that when cleared doesn't seem to come back?

You can either replace the top or have the plastic window replaced. I have seen quotes from $300-650 for replacing the plastic window.

A new top could run you $1000-2000 installed. More if you opt to go with a glass window top. If you decide to replace the top, I would recommend going with a glass window top, then you won't have any problems with the plastic cracking or hazing or any of the other common plastic window woes.

I'm in the same situation you are in, my plastic rear window has cracked in both bottom corners. I put some clear tape on the inside to keep water out, but I'll need to do something about it. I'm going to try to have the top replaced with a glass window top, but might have to wait a few months to get the funds in line.

BTW, all of the buttons on my climate control unit are pretty sticky. I think the PO trusted the cup holders a little too much and spilled something like coke. I can't recall, but isn't there some sort of liquid pressurized electronic switch cleaner stuff that might could be sprayed in there to clean it up, but that will evaporate and not cause a problem?

I figure when I move the unit, I might as well see if I can get the buttons working better. TIA!

I am also on the same boat with my '03. The warranty expires in August and I am debating shelling out the $2100. But will I have a repair that will cost more than $2100 in the next couple of years? Did you read Warranty Direct's exclusions? It appears that if the clutch goes out you are SOL. I think that if I had a japanese car it would be a no brainer and would not pay the $2100............Still thinking about it.

Well, the clutch is considered a wear item. Doesn't surprise me that they won't cover it.

Having a warranty is a good thing... sure, you might feel bad having shelled out the $$, but if you ever need it, you're going to thank your lucky stars you got that warranty!

I have an 04 S in which the AC controls are up top, and I would prefer them to be down below in front of the shifter where I have two cubbies. The PO installed a DVD nav system with a screen that pops out and blocks all the climate controls. Is it possible to do this, and if so what parts do I need? Thanks.

If you want, when I move my AC unit, I'll give you the brackets and bezel for it for the very bottom position, if you'd like 'em.

Or another thing you might could do is switch positions of the climate control unit and the stereo/nav unit... but then that might block your AC vents!

Thanks Jmatta... I think I found the bins at Suncoast Porsche Parts... something like $29 for either the pair or each... can't remember. I'll probably do the climate control release sometime in the next couple months, so I jotted down the part numbers. I kinda want to find a somewhat decent cup holder, as I occasionally go pick up lunch when I'm at work. I think ultimatecupholders.com has a decent one that should work well. Thanks again! I cross posted part of the information over on the 986forum, since someone recently asked about doing the same thing.

Here is the write-up from PCA Tech...

Question:

I would like to move the a/c unit to the top and place it where the cup holders are.

Is this a problem and where could I find instructions?

Thanks,

Steve

Answer:

Yes, you can move the AC unit back up to the top, where it is normally

located on a vehicle without cupholders. First remove the side cover on

the lower console by pulling the rear of the covers towards the outside of

the car. Pull off the cover of the AC control unit and put to the side.

Unscrew the 4 screws holding the AC unit in and pull towards you. Unplug

the connectors on the rear, they only go into one of the spaces so you

don't have to memorize the locations. Next pull off the switch covers on

either side of the cupholder by using a screwdriver on the bottom of the

holder and pulling to the rear. They should pop off. Now remove the

cupholder cover by popping off the cover from the side and remove the

cupholder assembly by removing the screws holding it in. Now you will

have to fish down to get the harness for the AC head up to the top

location. To install the AC head you will have to buy 2 brackets and a

face plate. The frame is 9965576770001c and the 2 brackets to line up the

AC head are 99657350100. Just install those parts and the AC head should

just slide in the slot, install the screws and the face plate and now have

your AC up top.

Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 6/3/2002

THANKS Jmatta!! I emailed that to myself.... now to find the parts, then get them ordered... and get the cubby things for the lower positions.

Thanks, I've been on PPBB for a couple years, and check out their Boxster forums often. I don't see a current thread in the Boxster forum regarding top replacement. Of course, I'm dyslexic and crosseyed... but it usually works itself out!

Thanks!

I'd like to accomplish the same thing... but there must be a bracket or at least a bezel for it. The climate control way down on the bottom in front of the shifter is just a stupid place for it. Maybe up one slot where that stupid CD storage bin is.

Will either of those powered woofer enclosures fit in the Boxste? Say, under the passenger seat?

I've been over on the 986 forum for a while, but hope this forum will get a little more activity.

Bought a 2001 Boxster in December that had low miles (40K), but wasn't kept very clean by the PO. This includes the plastic rear window. The top has a few scuffed areas, and the rear window was pretty hazy and had swirl marks. Then... the bottom corners cracked on me.

I called a shop that replaced the top on my mother's LeBaron a few years ago (and did a great job on it), and got an estimate on replacing the plastic window ($450), or replacing the top with a GAHH plastic window top ($1250) or a glass window top ($1880). Asked how much they'd charge if I obtained a top myself. $650. (And I can get the glass window top for $1045)

So I've been looking around, and found a few Robbins tops with glass windows on Ebay for a bit less. Also found a local installer from Robbins' site, but haven't contacted them yet. (gotta let the financial situation mature a little bit before I bite the bullet)

Has anyone replaced their top with a Robbins top? Anyone compared the Robbins to a GAHH? Are quality levels similar?