Mikelly

Well as it would happen, I think the compressor was “stuck”.  I jumped it to the power lug and it started working the clutch fan.  Now plugged back into the 30 Amp circuit and it’s working.

SOS... Digging up an old thread.  I replaced my compressor, as it was dying, now the new one is cracking the D6 fuse on my 1999 Carrera. 

Fixed.  Replaced the old clutch and shims and it works, strangely enough.  Little bit noisy.  I may end up trying the new clutch with the old shims.  But for now it works. 

Mike

1 hour ago, creekman said:

Mike or Kelly, or shared address, or none of my business...  Anyway the compressor clutch is extremely sensitive to the gap of the pulley to the plate.  I'd measure the gap, I 'think' it should measure in thousands of an inch.  Have you checked to be sure you have 12V.  I have sympathy for you since I have somewhat the same condition.  It has taken as long as 10 minutes before the clutch engages .  For reason that delay has come down to less than 5 minutes.

 

Mitch

It’s Mike Kelly.  I’ve been around since 2007 and wrote a BUNCH of tech articles when I was running the 996TT 30 track days per year.  So I checked the airgap and added an extra shim because it seemed to rub against the the hub and was dragging.  Now it’s not engaging at all.  I’ll measure the air gap.  Thanks.  

Gang, I had a noisy issue withthe engine bay where I though it was the belts/pulley's and swapped out the tensioner and guide pulleys, along with a new belt, then found the noise was actually in the HVAC compressor when the AC was turned on.  So, per searching this forum I found the suggestion of replacing the AC Compressor clutch and pulley/bearing assembly.  So I ordered a refurbished unit and "borrowed" these items and installed them.  I now am the proud owner of a 911 with NO functioning AC.  The system turns on but it doesn't seem like the clutch actuates.  The hub is magnetized when I turn the ignition on, but the clutch doesn't seem to actuate and the system is not blowing cold air.  I'm looking for suggestions. 

The F pipe DIY link is here:

http://www.renntrack.com/forums/showthread.php?1984-996TT-DV-Replacement-DIY

Mike

I've since completed this project and will post a "Laymans" DIY for those who are interested.

Mike

http://www.renntrack.com/forums/showthread.php?1968-997SSK-in-996TT-and-other-models

Mike

I have done so many of them on my lift, that I can do them in about 30-45 minutes normally... The key to making sure NOT to ruin the water lines is in my DIY elswhere here... Use a LARGE freezer baggie with the zip closure and make sure as you unscrew the unit that you keep the bag up over the whole of the unit and slave cylinder. I've done these for a number of members from sixspeeds and rennlist. Deckman, doing the accumilator is cake. Doing the slave cylincer is the painfull part of the job. Expect 4-5 hours at an indy. If you tackle this one yourself, the key is to lower the front trans mount a little (I loosened the front bolts until they only had about 1/4 inch left holting the trans in place) to give you access to the bolts that hold the slave in place. When you go to install the new unit, make sure the rod sits properly in the cup as you seat th unit and start the bolts into their threads on the case of the transmission.

And to the other member above recommending the GT2 upgrade... This is not an "Easy" upgrade and is far more costly than just replacing the accumilator... Upgrading the GT2 bits alone is gonna run $1000, not to include labor, and I don't think you're gonna do this one on jackstands. The time to consider the GT2 hydraulic upgrade is when doing a clutch replacement while you have access to everything at the time. I've got the GT2 clutch hydraulic upgrade done on mine, and love it, but it is not simple to do and not something I'd recommend over the accumilator unless you have an upgraded clutch kit, normally required for upgraded horsepower.

Mike

I bought mine thru Suncoast...

http://www.suncoastp...Code=996tttrans

Just so there's no confusion... Here's the same part number in the 997.1 GT3 section... That's the 997SSK I got from them and installed.

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/X99742498300.html?Category_Code=997gt3

Mike

So I went back this morning and checked the FSM and the Parts listing and confirmed the only part number differences were in the shift knobs. There is no difference that I can find in any of the standard vs. X50/ "S" models with regard to the shifter...

I've had three of the units and can honestly say the 997SSK is the best I've had my hands on...

Mike

If you look in the DIY section, I believe we have pics in my DIY of the differences in all the shifters being discussed. Don't believe there is any difference in the X50 or "S" shifter and the non-X50/S shifter from the stock 996TT. As to the comments someone made about the 997GT3 shifter, know that it is basically the STOCK 997 Shifter's throw with the addition of the metal in the actuator. The 997SSK is a different shifter in that the throw is almost as short as that of the B&M without the notchy feel.

Mike

How about info on the parts required?

I'm doing this with an OEM GT2 front bumper right now, and some info that readers should be aware of... The inner fender liners for the GT2 bumper aren't the same. Maybe Vivid's aftermarket unit doesn't require them, but the OEM unit does, and they are an integral part of the whole "aero" package... Also, the BELLOWS for the radiators don't line up with the openings in the corners. You'll need those as well. And that cool grill opening at the leading edge of the hood? If you want it to be functional, you'll have to get the proper radiator hoses, brackets, shims, and other bits in order to make it all work... Here is what I had to buy:

996-505-311-30-G2X Bumper Cover

996-505-563-30-01C Air Inlet

996-505-564-30-01C Air Inlet

996-505-561-30-01C Air Inlet

996-575-326-30 Bumper frame (front diffuser)

996-575-325-30 Bumper Air Duct

996-505-741-30-01C Bumper HID

996-505-742-30-01C Bumper HID

996-505-773-32 Spacer Panel

996-505-531-30 Retaining

996-575-321-30 Air Routing

996-575-322-30 Air Routing

996-504-195-30 Radiator Bracket (Upper)

996-504-679-31 Spacer Sleeve

996-504-413-30 Radiator Bracket (Lower)

996-575-141-30 Cooling Air Duct

996-504-123-90 Inner fender liner

996-504-124-90 inner Fender Liner

Plus 20 part numbers for related water lines if you choose to keep it completely OEM. We talk in areas of "form" and "function" but if you study the reasons for the differences in design of the GT2 front bumper, and its related ducting, you'll get a better sense of why it's important to have it matched to the rear wing, but also a better understanding of WHY it's important to make that front center grill opening functional. The amount of downforce, where it is in relation to the front axle of the car, and moreso the ability to move stagnant air up and over the car is why you want that grill opening to do more than "look" functional... think of it the same as those openings behind the doors that feed your intercoolers... They're there ONLY because they must be.

This is by no means to take away from what the boys at Vivid have posted. I'm just trying to bring to light the required parts list to make the bumper do as Porsche intended... otherwise you might was well be driving a Honda Civic with a big wing, fart-can, and cheap fiberglass bumper...NAWZ!!!

Mike

Do you have a tune that requires a 5 bar FPR? Did a tuner suggest you upgrade to the 5 Bar? I only installed mine when I upgraded software from Upsolute to UMW and the tune, along with the turbos I am running, required more fuel. Otherwise the stock FPR is fine for most who aren't boosting more power via larger turbos. If your tune isn't setup for the 5Bar FPR, you're shoving to much fuel into the combustion chambers and flooding the plugs...

Mike

Any update on this? I ended up going with the taller gearing of the 997TT mainshaft and 1/2 gears... Went with steel syncros in 3-5 gears and all the rollpins (which is probably what came out by the way) are safety wired so none will every get loose and eat bits and pieces again. I also went with a Guards LSD while it was out, did the GT2 Slave Cylinder upgrade and had the CM clutch disc re-surfaced with Fibertuff material.

Mike

Sorry to hear about the accident. I'd recommend talking to Marksky over on 6speedsonline. You'll probably get two of the same or BETTER quality for the price of one EVOMs brand...

Mike

Frank, I understand well that everyone has a difference economic situation and that we all can't spend cash the way we would like. However, ignoring an oil or "other" leak could well lead to more expensive issues long term...

This is "my world"...

I do as much as I can myself to offset some of those expensive costs...

Zero leaks is the only acceptable answer, period. Didn't come from the factory with "leaks" so in my book, zero leaks are the only answer...

Mike

Couple of things here...

First, no "leaks" are acceptable, ever. Get them addressed.

Second, there are some expansion plugs in the motor... They leak coolant. That coolant mixes with grime and dirt, and looks a lot, like oil... Don't assume it's oil unless it is wet enough to tell the difference.

Previous owner had my car into the shop a number of times over those plugs leaking, and coolant leaks... After I'd bought the car from the dealership I met the previous owner and he'd told me that they advised him to sell the car due to the leaks... Funny thing is, they fixed all of them, and I've not a had a single issue with ANY leaks in 3+ years of hard tracking and driving on the street.

Also, My car has never used any oil between changes... During track season I typically see an oil change every other track weekend, but from the fall until the spring I don't change the oil at all and still don't see any oil consumption. I put on several thousand miles per year on the car, too!

Mike

Your front diff and axles took a pretty bad beating, as did the transmission from all the shock- loading. I'd have the fluid changed in fron diff and rear transaxle. You "might" be ok as they don't run cars to redline during those tests. But it certainly took some life off the drivetrain. Sux man... Sorry to read this.

Mike

Well I bought my 2001 used with 9100 miles on it. Since owning it the only things I've had "go out" from use are a MAFS, which I suspect was due to an overly oiled K&N filter...

I bought my 996TT in Feb 2007 and have tracked it a LOT since then, and also used it as a daily driver when I want to commute into the Washington DC metro hell traffic that is the region I live just outside of. My 996TT has gone thru a clutch replacement that was brought about by power upgrades (UMW software to match the existing upgraded turbos) and the transmission has been upgraded to get rid of the damaged #1 & #2 syncros and #1 gear wear. I also got rid of the horrible Clutch hydraulics system that is LINKED to the powersteering system and uses a rather chostic fluid known as PENTOSIN CHF 11. This stuff is flamable at a very high flash point a few 996TTs have been destroyed due to leaks...

The only complaints I've had with this car are as follows:

Shift - The shifter sucks on these cars and the only real solution in my mind is the 997 SHORT SHIFT KIT upgrade, which can be had for about $430 thru Suncoast.

Clutch Hydraulics - Vague pedal pressure means you aren't always sure that the car is in gear and you can't modulate the clutch. A quick scan of the boards will tell you that the accumilator and slave replacements are common... Every year there seems to be a rush of these threads in the fall and the spring. If you ever pull the transmission for anything, replace the system with the GT2 upgrade.

Brakes - My Corvette had better brakes from "Stock" bits... The 996TT is a HEAVY car and without proper cooling and proper brake fluid (Don't mention ATE to me as it is NOT sufficient) will make an outting at a trackday more enjoyable... better pads (DON'T use PAGID ORANGES) will make the car perform even better.

Suspension Adjustment - This car is limited in its adjustment. For such a great supercar value, you can't adjust the caster at all from the factory, and you can't adjust the camber as much as true track junkies need. If the car is lowered, you can get up to about -1.5 in the front and about -2.0 in the rear. At stock ride height, which is to tall for such a sexy car, you're going to be much more limited... maybe -1.0 in the front and -175 in the rear... Unfortunatelty the solution is GT3 Split Control arms with ajdustable thrust bushings up front and adjustable dogbones in the rear. The Toe adjusters also are known to slip in track conditions, so plan on better rear toe links as well... $2K in parts NOT including coil overs or swaybars...

Mine has been a wonderful car that has provided much fun and excitement at the track, and much enjoyment on the street. The car gets attention everywhere, and on long road trips or stints on the highway Im' knocking down about 25-26mpg. I owe that to Kevin and his wonderful tuning at UMW.

At the end of the day, it's a Porsche, and there truly is no substitute.

Mike

NGK is concerned with selling plugs. They'll claim a lot. I'd not gamble with them, based solely on the time involved with swapping plugs on these cars...

Bosch FR6 for mine, no question.

Mike

Motor mounts could contribute to the "shock" feel, but if it is minimal, then I wouldn't worry about that.

You're going to have to go back to Cargraphic to get matching cats. I don't see you getting something that will work from another vendor. I've had 5 different systems on my car and none of them were the same in shape/size.

Mike