jl1252

Well, I bought the pair of lights. According to the owner, they came off a 2001 Carrera when he bought it new and they were replaced with Litronics before it left the dealership. He has since sold the car and had no need for the lights, which I got for $415. We'll see if they're as advirtised as they should be here on monday. Wooo-hooo. De-amber complete!

Jeff

I got 996 clears for my Boxster a few years ago. Porsche has played around with the part numbers over the years.

The yellow sticker has DOT on it so it is for the US.

About 2 weeks ago there were 3 pairs of 996 clears on Craigslist. All of them in the Bay Area. They were all in the $500 range for the pair.

DOH! Thanks for pointing out the obvious, I was so worried about other things I overlooked the DOT sticker. Thank you to you and Loren.

Jeff

I am trying to tell you that the number printed or stamped on a part is not necessarily the Porsche part number to order that part. In some cases it is the molded pieces part number.

Ask for pics of the front and back of the headlights. On the back look for broken attachment tabs or a broken electrical socket. On the front make sure they are the "clears" you are looking for and that they are not scratched or discolored.

Loren,

Thanks for you quick replies. I have pictures of the front of the lights and they are definitely "clear" takes-offs from a carrera. I was just worried that the different part number indicated a foreign (ROW) part number or something that would be incompatible with a US car.

Jeff

996.631.064.20 is likely the subassembly part number for the unassembled case.

It does not come up as a valid (orderable) part in the system.

So, what exactly does that mean? The lights are supposedly wholly intact and in working condition from a seller in th US. What else could the disparity in part #'s be? Do the Bosch part numbers from the above picture cross reference correctly?

Thanks again.

I have a light question too. I'm looking into buying a pair pf Carrera lights for my 02 Boxster and the seller is listing the part number as 996.631.064.20. The lights are clear halogens and the part number is visible in the attached picture taken from the listing. Pelican lists the clear halogen part number as 996.631.164.20. So what's the difference between the two (996.631.064.20 vs 996.631.164.20).

Thank for your time

Jeff

Please accept apologies if this has been up before but searches didn't find it (I make no claim to being an excellent searcher).

So my iginition switch is bad (to the point I had to disconnect the battery as I could not turn off the accessory after more tries than I like to think about). Went from sticky on key removal to full on failure when not driven for 2 weeks.

Great DIY and I'm almost ready to attempt it.

However, what's the failure rate for the Audi/VW part (current piece) vs the full Porsche assembly? I'm under extended warranty (w/$200 deduct) and not sure which would be the best option at this point.

Help? Thoughts? $30 part that goes bad in 4years(?) or $400 at the dealer and it never goes bad again?

'01 996 C4 Aero w/52k (original owner)

Thanks!

I just replaced the ignition switch in my 02 Boxster and I'm pretty certain the switch is the same. When I pulled the old one out it was an Audi part with Audi logo. The one I put in I purchased from a VW dealership and it was also an Audi part. For reference, the Audi/VW part number is 4A0908549B. If you go the dealership route, I think they no longer replace just the switch, you get a new steering lock with a newly designed switch for a lot more money. And the newly designed switch isn't comapitble with the old steering lock.

Jeff

Don't know about your tires, but I too, have the infamous vibration that occurrs between 3-3500 RPMs. My money is on the motor mount. I'll probably have mine replaced under my extended warranty.

No tool is needed to remove your spark plug tubes. I simply inserted my thumb and pressed it against the inner wall and pulled. Every one came right out wihtout the need of any special tool. There are two 'O' rings per tube and both had flat spots along their entire circumference which I suspected was the cause of my oil leaks. The manual also calls for a special tool for inserting new tubes, but again, none is really necessary. I was able to exert more than enough force to pop them back into place.

Good luck,

Jeff