gandrade1

Thanks!

Sorry for the ignorance, but how do you tell the mileage anyway?

Hi folks, Let me first say thank goodness for this website...I was about to pay 620.00 for a set of rear control arms (986.331.043.07) due to the worn out bushing that's making a helluva racket on turns and bumps, but found 3 alternatives to buyuing OEM.

1. Member "Boxsterfahrer" has DIY for repair of the control arm...(didn't try it but the posts indicated it works).

2. Member CJBoxster found an aftermaket adjustable control ams on Ebay...(go to ebay and do search for boxster control arms $250.00 for the pair), didn't see too much info regarding the longevity of this part..but he said it looked and felt pretty heavyduty, only draw back it's that they're adjustable so you have to adjust then install them.

3. I found a Porsche shop in miami that rebuilts the arms for 149.00 each Vertexauto.com (looks reasonable and they come with a 3 year warranty).

Here's the link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/128301%...rack%20Arm.aspx

Regards,

Kamran

Hi Kamran...

I cannot access your link.

Do you think you can paste it again using the 'insert link' option above?

Best,

Gus

Hi guys,

How hard is it to install front and rear sway bars in my 01 Boxster?

I am considering buying a couple of used H&R sway bars at a decent price, but the shop wants 3 hours (@$120/hour) to install them?

Is it a DIY job? What skill level and tools would I need?

All the best,

Gus

I own a 2007 997 C2S. I love the GT3 look and have been thinking hard. Have a few questions:

- The aerocup kit front bumper seems to be different than the GT3 front bumper where the GT3 one has a top grill opening. Can i order that separately? will it fit?

- The bottom lip on the GT3 is not painted, which is what i like. Does that come standard if i order that part?

- The rear bumper of the GT3 is obviously different and the aerocup kit doesn't include a change. Is there a way to replace that?

- Is the height between ground and the bottom of the rear bumper different between a GT3 and a C2S?

The aerocup kit front bumper seems to be different than the GT3 front bumper where the GT3 one has a top grill opening. Can i order that separately? will it fit?

A: I ordered the GT3 RS front bumper from my porsche dealer, other parts you need for this are:

1) the difuser for the bottom (plastic peace that attaches to the bottom of the bumper and is flexible plastic which you can paint the same color as the bumper or leave black) this piece is about $300

2) the from bumper air vent which is what you are talking about and its $36 retail and $32 dealer cost if you want your paint/body/mechanic shop order it for you

the above package are 3 separate parts.

As far as the rear bumper you cannot fit it on your C2S since you have the exaust separated on each side where as for the GT3 it sits in the middle, so you'd have to look at an aftermarket one that has the vents like the GT3 but hollows for tips on each end. Ground clearance is different just because the GT3 sits lower, so depending on the bumper you order may or may not sit a bit lower than what your OEM bumper has.

I have an 05 C2S cab with the front completely changed to a GT3 RS, I will send you before and after pics, looks unbelievable! definitely worth every penny spent.

Sam

Sam - Thanks for the color. Pls do send across some pics :D

Come on...

Pictures, please!

Based on your answer, maybe I shouldn't shut the PDK idea down too quickly...

...was too heavy for me to enjoy, esp as I plan to make this my DD...

I own a 986 and drove a 987 - much improved clutch. However, based on your needs I would try the new technology - PDK!

I have heard wonders about it...

When I get that old (1 year from now) :-) I will also consider PDK...

Have fun, welcome to the board

Gus

Does anyone have experience with H&R RSS Club Sport coilovers on their 986? If so, how is the balance?

I have a set of street performance H&R coilovers on my track dedicated '04 986S. I've liked them, but have outgrown them of late. Time for an upgrade.

The spring rates for the club sports are slightly more 2x the street performance set, and are in the range of what I think I need....bu I'm concerned about loosing the balance I have right now front to back that I have now.

Interested in selling your H&R street performance coilovers if you haven't already done so?

PM me if interested...

Best,

Gus

I have a '99 with 92K on it and I was wondering if anyone out there has any idea how long the shocks/struts last on these cars? I'm thinking of going the 030 route when the time comes to replace them. At the moment I'm starting to feel a little sponginess when transitioning lanes on a cambered freeway. Could this mean that the suspension bushings are giving up the ghost as the car still corners and takes bumps as good as ever. Thanx in advance for any advice. :help:

Hi Kevin,

Have you ever got a response?

Have the same question here....

All the best,

Gus

I own Porsche because I enjoy them and never care about what others think. I also don't understand post asking what others think about a certain style of wheel or spoiler... it's your car, do as you wish with it. Just enjoy the vehicle and play safe out there, keep the racing for the track.

Interesting question would be...

what do you enjoy about the Porsche...maybe...just maybe...the performance?

Otherwise, I agree with Geo Metro comment.

i probably should have read the fine print, but the Porsche CPO program seems like a joke and a rip-off. i bout my car last may and have replaced the battery, did the console cover repair kit, need to repair my antenna lead and have "excessive rust" on my brakes (even though i drive the car daily, 12k in 11 months). Now the dealer wants 1300.00 to replace my door seals as they roll down with the windows. Porsche doesn't want to pay either.

Last week, my car started misfiring and the check engine light was flashing so I had the car towed back to the dealer. They think the problem is a coil, bit they wouldn't replce it as the car stopped misfiring one they got it - - they just switched it to another cylinder and told me to tow the car back when it happens again. Great plan.

any insight would be helpful, thanks.

Could you try a different dealer, perhaps?

AFAIK The CPO is not dealer specific and it looks like these guys you are taking your car to are not really consumer focused or ethical...

Best of luck,

Gus

Keep in mind that the newer the car the more likely it is to have more warranty.

Point taken...Its all about how much you are willing to give up to get that one extra year of warranty. Priorities, priorities...

And in 2007 they upgraded the parts associated with the IMS.

Only worthwhile upgrade seems to be the removal of that thing!

Nothing I have read substantiates that the post 07 are any more reliable than the 06 and so forth!

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I appreciate the feedback.

Jay H, if I were you, I'd buy a 2006 Boxster S over an 07 or 08 base.

White, I'd be interested to hear your reasoning behind your statement.

Agreed!!!

S have better brakes, more HP, different gear ratios, etc...For me the brakes alone would justify the choice. Would stay away from MY05s just because they were the first year model.

In 07 there was a small increase in HP in both models (if I am not mistaking), but apart from that nothing really changed that would make a 07 or 08 base more attractive than a 06S..

I own a 01 986 and drove a 987 (base MY08) two weekends ago...Man :-) the 987 is a much improved car. I nearly traded my in, if only the sales man had not offered USD 10,000 for my MY01 with 47k miles!!!

Best of luck,

Gus

If you are only replacing the rear tires, I would recommend that you match up to the front, in other words if you are still running Conti Sport II up front you should out back too (IMHO).

+1 - You should always match front and rear...

On a separate note, I have Conti IIs in my 18'' set and don't like them at all. I did buy a set of 17''s for the track and got some nice Bridgestones RE01Rs, I love them. BStones are just much better tires IMO anyway. The RE01s are pbbly not the best choice for a daily driver, since they tend to wear quickly, but other Bstones should do the trick. Hankook are cheaper tires, noisy and with not much technology IMMO...if you are budget-conscious and don't care much about the noise, try Falkens Avenis RT-615s or Kuhmos Ecsta MX or XS for high performance and great value.

Regarding the rough roads, for comfort you should chose quieter tires (take a look at Tirerack surveys), however the biggest change would come from downsizing the wheels. I live in NJ (USA) and the roads are terrible here too, my car is very comfortable when on the 17''s and rough on the 18''s. I am, however, aware of the fact that the 987 use higher profile 18''s and a quiet tire could do the trick for you.

All the best,

Gus

G Force products are SFI rated and maufactured in Asia for a low cost alternative to higher priced equipment. There is nothing wrong with their products as compared to Sparco, Simpson, Schroth, etc.

Even our local supplier (Northstar Motorsports) offers the products as a budget item for racers and DE participants.

Thank you so much, guys...

Will follow this route..Not feeling like spending $700 on a pair of harnesses!

Gus

Hi guys,

Considering getting 6-point harnesses installed and came across some with decent price.

Has anyone had any experience with these G Force Harnesses?

Is there any significant difference between these and let us say Schroth?

All the best,

Gus

Hi Gus,

Replacing the passenger side bulb made the headlight work again with the HID kit, yes, but it did not solve the flickering of the side markers, which are LEDs. The headlights never flickered to begin with, it's just the sides that do.

Is your headlight flickering?

No flickering here either...

Just sometimes the passenger wont turn on!

I have to switch it on and off to then get it to work...

I am glad it worked for you. I should probably consider buying one new bulb from ICQ.

I have had the kit way past 1 year, so no way they will replace the bulb.

I had H7 blue lights in my fogs but took them out because they were not bright enough (worse than stock).

I was just wondering whether replacing the passenger side bulb on the ICQ kit solved your problem with the flickering headlight...

I haven't replaced the bulb, but the problem sometimes comes back...

All the best,

Gus

So I bought the Switch at Radio Shack just now...

It is numbered and I reproduced the numbers on my attachment below...

Would you guys be able to confirm that my diagram below is correct?

All the best,

Gus

Is this how a double DPDT switch would work in my case? (attachment)

Yes. As long as both horns have neg. leads to ground a Single Pole Double Throw switch will be fine. Connectors are your choice. Hot lead to switch, one lead to each horn. Done deal.

Thanks guys,

All I have today is a set of +/- connectors leading to the air compressor and a pair of +/- unused, which used to power the second OEM horn.

Can I:

(1) remove the + terminal that goes to the air compressor route it through to the SPDT switch

(2) Take the - terminal currently unused and hook it up to an OEM horn

(3) Cut two pieces of hire to route from the switch to the positive terminals of the air compressor and the OEM horn?

If I use a DPDT how would my numbers above be different?

Thank you so much,

Gus

Why not just install a DPDT switch to control your horns. Switch down for DOT approved OEM horn, switch up for Mariachi party. :D

Radio shack is your friend.

Thank you...

If I follow this method. I assume I would simply remove the OEM connectors from the Air Horn, route them to the switch and from the switch I would have two sets of connectors - one to the air horns and one to the OEM.

Is there an specific 'name' or type for these connectors, other than simply DPDT or would the Radio Shack guys now what I am talking about right away?

Thank you so much.

All the best,

Gus

Why not buy a tank instead?

If only they handled like a Boxster!

Anyway..thank you very much for your constructive advice. It helps me a lot!

Hi guys,

I need help here.

I took my car for the New Jersey State inspection yesterday and I failed for one reason – AIRHORNS!!!!!!!! They could not find anything else to fail me for, so they went for the horn… Well…it could be worse

Now I need some help here – I need to be able to switch between a non-air, OEM style, horn – (to be installed) and the air horns I currently have.

I currently have three trumpet Hella air horns in the place where the 3rd radiator would sit (posted in a different topic here). I wired it in such a way that I use the connectors that fed ONE of the two OEM horns and insulated the terminals that fed the other one. Now I need to be able to install an OEM horn and temporarily turn the air horns off so that I can pass the inspection only.

So I am thinking… Could I use the connectors which are now insulated (which used to power the second OEM horn) to hook up an OEM style horn? I would then remove the fuse that powers the 3-thrumpt for the inspection only (assuming the two fuses that power the 2 original OEM horns are separate).

Does anyone have another idea? Can I have an on/off switch in the trunk which alternates between OEM/Air horns? If yes, how should I wire this mess and what do I need to buy…

Thank you very much.

All the best,

Gus

Gus - I have a 5-point harness in my 04 986S with Sparco Evo seats.

I used Brey-Krause hardware to attach the lap belts, and a Brey-Krause bar for the anit-sub belt, as well as Brey Krause side mounts for he seats. They make good very good stuff. I did not need a harness bar for the shoulder belts - they pass cleanly through the holes on the seat and loop around the horizontal bar on the roll hoops.

If you are installing a harness for track use, be extra careful about the angles of the shoulder straps - most harness makers will tell you in their literature what the angles should be. If the angle is too acute, the harness cannot work properly - one way it compresses you; the other, it does not hold you down if you are inverted.

Thank you very much, Eric...

Looks like it is not a very hard DIY!

Would you have the part numbers for the Bray-Krause stuff?

Did you order them online?

All the best,

Gus

Hi guys,

First of all my delayed, but sincere, wishes of a happy New Year to all. May 2009 bring you a lot of peace, health and accomplishments…

Now, to my first project of the year – I am thinking of installing 5 or 6-point harnesses on my Boxster. I was quoted $900 only in labor! Considered I paid $700 last year to have my clutch replaced – to hell with the quote! I am gonna do it with the help of a friend.

My question, however, is what do I need to buy besides the belts. My friend mentioned that for his Cayman he had to add a harness bar. Do I need the same for my Boxster? If so what and where do I get it?

I think it’s worth mentioning that I currently have Kirkey seats and I seat very high, but enough to clear the holes in the backrest of the seats.

Has anyone come across a DIY for the install?

All the best,

Gus

If you go to: http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z231/tr...nt=100_0309.flv you will see the decal I added to my spoiler. We spent Christmas day driving up and down the highway so others in a "chase" vehicle could see the fun :P

I have that too, mine is silver to match the exterior color ;)

I have the silver sticker on my black Boxster! Luv it !

Got a lot of compliments on the track...