gandrade1

... but arent laser jammers illegal in just about all states? Not that something like that would stop me, but...

Speeding is illegal, so why would anyone that speeds worry about the legality of a jammer?

To be caught speeding you must be speeding through an area where they have a radar or worse yet be speeding when the laser is pointed at you...To be caught with the jammer all it takes is is go through that same area and keep the jammer on! The interference caused by these devices is easily recognizable.

I also bet the fine for carrying a jammer (where it is illegal) and the PIA is much higher than the average speed ticket and the average PIA you get for that.

Just some good old speculation!

All the best

Gus

I have a 2.5 and have replaced the awful brakes with Boxtser S brakes.

I quite fancy getting some Cheap 16" wheels, put some R888's on them and keeping them as trackday wheels.

Does anyone know if they will fit over S calipers?

M

16''s won't fit over S brakes...The smaller you can go is 17''.

Plus, 16''s are a little too small for the track. The consensus on cost/benefit for track tires and wheels seems to be 17s. I had the same question a while ago and it was answered in this forum!

All the best,

Gus

Anyone???

Sounds like an interesting topic....Sorry not to be able to contribute other than as a spectator.

All the best,

Gus

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5477

Thank you very much...

I will give it a try tonight.

Hi guys...

Two months ago I removed the center rollbar padding to install the BK camera mount and bingo - broke one of the studs that hold the thing in place...

Now I am about to install the BK rollbar extension and need to remove the padding from the rollbar hoops. How do I do that without braking anything? The padding feels like it is glued in place!

I have a door trim remover tool, but don't know where the rivets/studs are in the padding.

ToolPants I remember you had a picture of someone removing the paddings...would you have some suggestions on how to do the job.

All the best,

Gus

:renntech:

Porsche offers a smaller steering wheel on the 987 as an option, they call it the sport steering wheel. It even comes with a thicker rim. I wonder if the 987 and 986 wheels are compatible?

That would be great - assuming they don't cost 2 grant!!!

All the best,

Gus

Yes, directly to the battery, I used a relay as shown in the instructions, I have a separate switch mounted under the dash, this trggers the relay which sends power directly from the battery to each of the ballasts. This bypasses everything in the car and is gauranteed to work asuming that the kit components are all good.

If your HID kit worked before then one side just stopped working then I would guess that one of the parts on that side failed or a connection came loose.

I would strongly suggest that you check all connections and wires carefully, make sure no wires are pinched or damaged if that is all good then I would swap a piece from the working side to the non-working side, one at a time to determine which component is bad. They are still under warrantly so it would be nice to sort it out soon...

It appears that the light bulb itself is not working, the rest is fine. I swapped light bulbs with the working side and the light did the same thing. Then I took the 'good' bulb and hooked it up to the wire harness on the other side and the light worked.

I sent a note to CQLights to see what needs to be done to exchange the bad bulb.

Question: I thought these lights were supposed to last a lot longer than halogen lights. If mine went out after only 6 months, what could be the cause? Bad bulb? Something else in the electrical system that somehow caused the light to burn?

Thanks,

azzar0.

Hey Azzar0

I will do the same test...Hopefuly the bulb is the problem in my case as well......

Best,

Gus

Early Boxster S ergonomics suck, IMHO. I'm a six-footer, 180 pounds, a little on the long-legged side. I can live with the crappy switches, the nil side support of the seats, but the standard steering wheel is downright dangerous. I can't brake, left- or right-footed while steering into a corner without my hands fouling on the steering wheel, no matter what permutation of seat and steering wheel position I try.

Is there any alternative?

I drove a friend's BMW M3 yesterday, the E46 model, and wish I'd gone for that. I am quite disillusioned with the 'Porsche experience'.

Sorry for the rant, and TIA for any suggestions.

6'4'' here - no problems with the steering wheel...Installed GT3 console delete for more leg room, Kirkey Intermediate seats 17'', bolted to the floor for the driver and 16'' for the passenger - they are comfortable. If you are thinking of racing, get the same seats I did with 5 to 6 point harnesses and non-airbag Momos, you should be fine! Would not go for non-airbag steering wheels without the harnesses.

M3 is more of a family car, albeit wonderfully sportive...Two different concepts - the Boxster is a roadster, where space is at a premium. BTW, I have noticed that is the case for most Porsches...

Hope this helps.

Best,

Gus

The CQ kit and pretty much any HID kit needs a stable (steady) supply of 12 volts to work properly, the ballasts will have problems and could be damaged by an unstable supply. The 987 has an interesting pulse in the lighting circuit that I found will not work with the CQ I installed, the only way I could get stable power was to run it directly from the battery.

You mention flicker on the LED side lights, that would indicate a voltage fluctuation of some type and could be causing your problem azzar0. You didn't mention if you had a 986 or a 987?

It's a 986 (98 base model).

Is there a voltage regulator or something I could install before the lights? And the flickering on the side LEDs doesn't happen all the time, but it is more frequent now. The battery is new, I just changed it a couple of months ago...

Thanks

Hi guys,

Checked my connectors and nothing is loose.

Azzar0, my battery is also new...And I have been experiencing exactly the same symptoms, with the exception of the flickering...

I am seriously considering taking the kit off completely...Since I got all the lights in the dashboard going off at once last week. It happened only once but scared me!

Lets keep each other posted.

Best,

Gus

I second...my Boxster has 165K and still has the original pads on the rear. My light has been on /off for about 2 years now. In my opinion if you replace the pads when the warning light comes on, it is a waste of money as I still had 40-50% of the pad left when the light first came on.

Well, at 165k miles (or km) and with the lights on replacing your pads is hardly a waste of money in my opinion!

Drive safe,

Gus

Hi guys,

I have had my ICQ kit installed for over a year now (2001 Boxster) and around a month ago, I started noticing that the passenger side sometimes doesn't light up.

I then have to switch the lights off and on again and it will work. Any idea of what might've happened?

All the best,

Gus

It could be a few different things, did you check for loose connections, but first I would get back to ICQ and ask them what they think...

Thanks Al,

I will check for loose connectors and if that doesnt work I will contact ICQ.

Best,

Gus

Hi guys,

I have had my ICQ kit installed for over a year now (2001 Boxster) and around a month ago, I started noticing that the passenger side sometimes doesn't light up.

I then have to switch the lights off and on again and it will work. Any idea of what might've happened?

All the best,

Gus

Which winter tires would you guys recommend for the 2007 Boxster S. I have the Stock Mich Ps2's that came with the car now. Thanks

I would get a set of 17 inch wheels (OEM take offs) and wrap them with ContiExtremeContact. These are all-season tires, but do the job pretty well in the winter (unless you are expecting to face a lot of snow). They do very well on dry terrain, good speed rating and the noise levels are very acceptable.

That said, if you want maximum winter performance, go for dedicated snow/winter tires like others said but expect to sacrifice dry/speed performance. There is always a trade-off when it comes to tires !

I live in the Northeast and ran 16's with the ContiExtremeContacts on my 986 (base) last winter and loved it.

All the best,

Gus

I did the opposite, but the instructions here might help you - +console +delete

Best,

Gus

The OBC retrofits works on all 986/996 models. except for a 2001 Boxster 2.7....

Are you serious? :huh:

That is exactly what I drive and since my signal turn lever is broken I was considering the OBC hack!

Best,

Gus

I think it would be more informative to find out what oil is used in the engines that experience problems like this. The full history of oil use and not just the current brand and weight. IMO, anyone who is worried about failures like bearings and continues to use Mobil's 0W40 or equally inferior oil, is justified in their concerns.

Why some people insist on running the weakest of the oils on the approved list makes no sense to me.

What is a good oil then? Brand/viscosity ?

Thanks,

Gus

So many people try to get heel-and-toe down on the track. The track isn't a good place to learn it. You're already putting the car to the limits. You're already putting yourself to the limits. Don't extend both of those limits by trying something like this which will drive you and the car both over the limit.

I tell my students who want to learn, they need to do it on the drive home. I'll teach them how to do it in an unpopulated part of the paddock so they get the basics. Then, I encourage them to do it all the time, every day. At first it will suck. A lot! Then, once they start getting good at it, they're coming to the next track event and they're smoooooooooooth with it. They have a much better experience.

Getting heel-and-toe down at 20 m.p.h. and .2G on a public road is a lot easier than trying to do it at 40 m.p.h. and .9G on a race track with people breathing down your neck.

-Michael

Hi Michael,

Had a great time at the track last weekend and my instructor suggested that I work on heel and toe for my next day at the track.

I drive a Boxster and I am now in a more advanced (as compared to the Green) run group and I am driving with faster cars and drivers, so I need to start using my gears more wisely.

How do you suggest I work on the technique? Are there any videos online that show how to do it? Should I look for someone in my local PCA that would be willing to show it to me?

Thanks,

Gus

Sorry, if the leak is near the left rear wheel is very likely the coolant tank.

There have been 5 or 6 coolant tank revisions - so Porsche knows they are a problem.

I doubt the clutch replacement had anything to do with it.

Boxster Coolant Tank = near right rear wheel.

Regards, Maurice.

Thats where I have the problem!!!!!!!!!!

Guys...you are the best!

Hi guys, bad news.

I had the clutch on my '01 2.7L Boxster replaced by a reputable Indy mechanic last week. Today I took my car to an PCA inspection for a track event and it failed. The reason - leak of a blueshish / greenish fluid. Looked at my garage floor and nothing.

Accordingly to the guys doing the inspection it is antifreeze and that is what they wrote as the reason for the failure.

I dropped my car immediately at the same mechanic.

My questions are:

(1) Is it possible that the clutch replacement and the leak are unrelated?

(2) What during the clutch replacement process could have cause the leak of antifreeze?

(3) Is my engine going bad...

I will talk to my mechanic tomorrow, but would like to have an idea of what might have happened.

BTW, the car did not have any problem before the replacement and the mechanic comes highly recommended.

I checked the trunk and the reservoir doesn't seem cracked - at least the trunk is not wet.

Thanks for the help,

Gus

See if you can find someone to spot weld/braze the stud back onto the sheet metal backing plate.

If you want a used replacement instead, then check on the Boxster spec racing message boards. They have no need need for the roll bar padding as the roll bar is removed and a cage put in.

Many years ago a local owner removed the black padding and put in grey. I have not seen him in years, or I would give you his contact info.

Thanks ToolPants,

Just posted a message in the Boxster Racing board. Please, let me know if you come across someone that has the part.

In the meantime I will try to find a place to weld the stud back into the sheet metal. One thing though, I am not even sure what type of business to look for that would do that.

All the best,

Gus

There are 2 studs with what looks like threads. Those studs go into plastic bushings on the roll bar.

Let's see your pictures.

Thanks, guys...

ToolPants,

In your pic (I edited), the stud in red broke and remained stuck (with the plastic brushing) in the rollbar!

Man...do I need a replacement part? Any idea of the cost?

I have a black interior - that could make thinks easier.

If anyone has any idea please let me know.

Thank you so much,

Gus

Yeah, not too bad, I got mine from England for $100 :huh:

Just kidding, I think the pair of clips cost $20...

I paid $1.69 each from Sunset Imports. Not that I ever did something dumb like breaking a clip.

Guys,

I need some help!!!

I did something really stupid :(

To install the camera mount I had to remove the roll bar padding in the middle. Guess what...I broke one of the two pins that attaches the part and the broken part as well as the rivet it attaches to are still stuck in the roll bar.

Do I need a new part all together. Is there any way I can fix the mess?

I will try to post some pics later!

Thanks,

Gus

Just came across these comments...K&N Claims

I will call them and ask if they replace my MAF if I get a CEL immediately after I install the filter...

:rolleyes:

Gus:

Ditto for me. The chance of fouling the MAF is not worth the sweeter sound of the intake with a K&N. The Boxster throws enough CEL's without adding another possible source.

Also, those new MAF's aren't cheap.

I understand that the later model MAF's are not as susceptible to fouling because they are a different design.

Regards, Maurice.

So....no go for the K&N (or BMC) ?

How do I know if my MAF is one of these 'improved' ones? I have a 2001 2.7L Boxster.

Thanks, guys.

All the best,

Gus

Hi guys,

It is time for me to replace the air filter on my '01 Boxster and I am considering adding a non-paper filter.

The guy I source some of my parts from no longer carries the BMC element since he said the K&N is as good as for a fraction of the price. $34 for the K&N, $90 for the BMC.

Are both filters equivalent?

On another note, any reason I should stick with the paper (OEM) filter - I like the induction noise and will let the oiled filter rest for a while wrapped in newspaper if I decide to go that route? Anything else that could go wrong with these?

Thanks,

Gus