gandrade1

That sounds a little more encouraging, so can I get away with these?

Porsche 19 inches wheels and tires. Front = 235/35 ZR19 8x19" (57 mm offset), Rear = 305/30 ZR 19 11x19" (51 mm offset). 19" Carrera wheels...?

Hi Westcoaster,

I ran some numbers and it looks like the rear wheels will move slightly towards the suspension by 22 milimeters (2 centimeters), while the outside movement is almost negligible. Note that you could add some spacers to balance out the movement towards the inner side of the car. I don't think you would have a problem.

That being said, I would call a store that is used to Pcars and ask them just to make sure. Or hopefully someone with a 987 has done the same thing and will give their advice.

All the best,

Gus

Do I need to worry about going from stock sized 17" wheels and tires to larger stock spec wheels and tires?

Will there be codes or errors, is this set into the OBC when the car is made?

I have a 2006 Boxster and was looking at 18" and 19" sets to replace my 17" wheels and tires

Hi Westcoaster,

As long as you go for 18's or 19's that meet the specs that are recommended for your car (look for a TSB on Summer Tires and Wheels) you should have no problems at all. I am not 100% sure, but I believe that even if the 18/19s don't meet the Porsche specs exactly you will not have any code errors, probably some minor discrepancies on your speed readings but no codes...

Best,

Gus

Check this out...

Center Console Removal, etc

Best,

Gus

PS:Added the link, please let me know if it works...

I assume its the shifter base which has created the change in feel of the shifter for the 997 and 987 shifter.

Based on what?

wow, tough crowd here......

uh, based on the fact that ive read that the shifting mechanism has changed. Its not just a lever or geometry change but that part of the overall console design was changed. What EXACTLY that entails, well im not so sure.

I said i assume, i was asking a question, hardly stating fact. I don't have both in hand to compare, but I am curious so i figured i would ask.

Cheers

Hi Ryan,

I asked because it looks like you are on to something...

I recently installed the B&M, and it does feel stiff despite the perfect throws. If what you are saying is correct then you might just have found the perfect solution!

And I will be lining up for the 987 assembly too :cheers:

Best,

Gus

I assume its the shifter base which has created the change in feel of the shifter for the 997 and 987 shifter.

Based on what?

Coupe or Cab? (they are different)

sorry coupe

thanks Lorren!

Also interested - assuming I can use the same on my '01 Boxster.....

I cannot figure out why a complete 997 assembly is cheaper than a B&M shifter only? Seems like too good to be true.

This is a great question that got me wondering as well.....

Is the 987 assembly much superior to the B&M? If so in what aspects?

I installed a B&M two months ago and it does feel a bit stiff, but I love the short throws it gives. Had I known of the 987 assembly I would have sold my B&M online and bought the OEM piece - that would have allowed me to keep my original part (986) intact and simplified the installation since there is no need to brake the shifter from the base.

What is the difference between the two and why is the OEM cheaper?

All the best,

Gus

Hi,

I'm 6.5 and I found that removing the lower centre console and replacing with the console delete

kit ( as per gt3) helped a lot as it gives more room to splay your leg out.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...f=2&t=11942

Did the same on my 986 (Boxster) and it helps a lot...

I also added Kirkey seats, bolted to the floor. I would recommend a set of Recaros or Sparcos (brackets are easier to find and they look nicer than the Kirkeys). I personally found the GT3 style not very comfortable. I would also add sliders, which I didnt do in the driver's side because they increase the height by one inch and, since I need to clear the 'broomstick test', every inch counted.

I put these on my 02 S last month. no spacers or mods - just took off the stock 17's and added the 19's.... Amazing differnece.

Man...These look amazing!!!!!!!!! Wish I didn't have to deal with the Jersey roads!

Where did you get them?

Looks pretty

All the best,

Gus

Quick update:

One of the local Indy Shops wants $270 just in labor!!!!! :cursing:

What planet do these guys live in? :censored:

Another question:

Do I need to replace the nuts, bolts and clamps? If so, which ones?

If so can I buy 'generic parts' or should I order them from a P dealer?

Thanks,

Gus

It is quite easy to remove the rear bumper cover, as it gains you quite a bit of access to the upper mount. Rear spoiler comes off with a few simple plastic rivets which can be re-used.

Hi Guys,

I will get a pair of Rhino Ramps and try to do the job...

One question - if I decide to buy the plastic rivets for the spoiler in the event I need to replace them, does anyone know the part number?

BTW, my car is a 2.7L (2001), is my muffler also attached to the transmission area? I check underneath the car but couldn't see anything - but I guess that is the point!!!

All the best,

Gus

I installed my Porsche Sport Exhaust without removing the rear bumper cover. However, removing the cover isn't very hard and it will give you better access and visibility.

Most of the process is pretty straightforward. The clamps on the "U" pipes can be a bear to get apart so be prepared with a rubber mallet and some WD-40 to loosen them up. You will probably need to move the upper mounting bracket over from your stock muffler. As Savowood mentioned, attaching the bracket to the top of the transmission is a b!tch because you need to do it blind. You'll be reaching up from the front side of the car, trying to get the nuts on the mounting bolts without being able to see them. It's tough to get a wrench in there to tighten the bolts. I played around with a few different ones until I found a setup that worked.

Thank you very much guys...

I will give this thing a try on the weekend... My concern with removing the bumper is the part where I need to remove the rear spoiler...

I will probably put the rear on stands to do the work - is that what you guys did?

Thanks,

Gus

Anyone can point me in the right direction?

Hi guys,

I bought a Stebro Racing Exhaust (only the muffler) and am planning on doing the install myself on my 01 2.7L Boxster...

Has anyone here done such install? Do I really need to remove the rear bumper? How hard/time consuming should it be?

Please, let me know if you come across instructions on how to do the job.

Thanks,

Gus

Gus

Thanks for the quick reply. I have 26 mm+ from the top of tire to the bottom of the wheel well (the top of the wheel well arch). How much do I need for wheel up/down suspension travel?

Thanks

Walter

Hi Walter,

The distance between the tire and the top of the wheel well should not be a problem at all.

You should be concerned with the distance between the outer edge of the tire and the fender.

Take a look at this website...it might help you

Wheel Offset Calculator

I purchased a 2006 C2 997 cab. I am able to purchase some new takeoff 2008 C4S wheels and tires. The C4S front wheels and tires are the same size and same offsets as those now on my car. HOWEVER, my current rears are 11x19" (67 mm) 295/30 ZR 19 and the ones I am thinking of installing are 11x19" (51 mm) with 305/30 ZR 19. THUS, the rears would have a 16 mm smaller offset. MY QUESTION: What are the issues with reducing the rear offset by 16 mm? Thanks in advance for your comments.

If you are reducing the offset by 16 mm, that means that the new wheels will be moving outward by 16 mm, so the tires might rub your car. That will be amplified by the fact that the tires you are thinking of using are wider than the ones you currently have by 10 mm (305 - 295). So we are in theory talking about 16mm (from offset change) + 5mm (1/2 of the extra tire width) in extra space you need between the tires and the fenders in your current setup to be able to accomodate the new wheels and tires. Measure it, if you have much more than 21mm between the tires and the fenders currently the wheels will fit. If you are close to the 21mm mark it is too risky - after all this is not precise math!

BTW, spacers will not solve your problem - assuming one exists - since all they do is to move the wheels out even further.

Best of luck,

Gus

And I am very happy with the Bridgestone RE-01R's. Superb track tire that is very usable on the street.

Tirerack is a good reference point to beat your local shop over the head with and get a good price.

Joost

Sorry for taking this a little off the original topic, but you are the second guy I see running RE-01Rs in a Boxster - I am the other one :rolleyes:

What pressure are you running on yours on track days?

Thanks,

Gus

The wheels are 18 inch but tires are odd sizes - 225/40 up front and 265/35 on rear;

Congrats!!!

The tire sizes you mentioned are exactly the ones recommended for the 986s

For your car the recommended tire sizes (18''wheels) are: 235/40 ZR 18 (front) and 265/40 ZR 18 (rear). The recommended sizes would fill the wheel wells a little more and make the car a little higher. The ride will be less sporty.

Good news is you might be able to sell the tires easily, since there are a lot of 986s owners out there (I am one of them - but just got new shoes!)

All the best,

Gus

BTW - I got the recommended tire sizes from the TSB area here, which you have access after you become a contributor. My 2 cents, it is well worth it. :renntech:

225 in front? I'm fairly certain it should be 235. Though this may not be related to your issue.

Have recently fitted 18" rims and Bridgestone Potenza 225/40ZR18 front and 265/35 rear.

Car is a 2002 Boxster S.

For the first 10 minutes or so of driving there is a noticeable vibration in the cars steering at about 45 to 55 mph.

This disappears completely after a while.

I can guess that the problem lies with the new tires - but I would like to ask the forum:

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does it disappear after the tires become more worn?

Is it specifically a Bridgestone problem, or is it more a function of low profile tires in general?

any comments/tips would be much appreciated

Chris

Hi Sputter,

The suggest width of the front tires on 18's for the 986 are in fact 225!

Chris is running all the 'approved' dimensions.

All the best,

Gus

I met Darin last month at the Parts Heaven swap meet in Hayward. He had some 993 and 996 modified mufflers.

This is the typical way for a Boxster. The Germans started doing this years ago. It is a takeoff on the first version sport exhaust sold by Porsche.

ToolPants,

Is this available for sale? :rolleyes:

I have been looking for a cheaper solution for my 01 Boxster...

Got it at Amazon - great price!!!

Great investment, despite the price

Gus

Hi Gus,

Jiggle and pull and it will come right out. Also when taking the center console out their are two small electrical connections, one for the light in the ashtray and one for your alarm to the back console. To get the last one just lift up the center console from the passenger seat to see the connection with a flash light and then reach up and squeeze the connection clip. Don't forget to put it back the same way. Once you get it out you can examine the end and notice it can only go back one way. Some try to pull the center console out to quickly and rip the console alarm wire.

Regards and good luck!

Hi guys, thanks to your help and encouragement I finished the install...

One thing I can tell you - the older the car the hardest it is to take the electrical connectors apart. Especially hard for me was the center console alarm - the whole thing came out and the connector did not unplug - good news is I was able to put the sensor back together...

Difficulties apart the install is done...

I am not 100% sure about how I feel about it <_< - While I love the shorter travel, it is now much stiffer to engage the gears - is this normal? I used the 'Porsche Method' which means NO disconneting and re-aligning cables, just flipped the tower and disconnected the 'sockets' while keeping the cables engaged. How can I tell if the stiffeness is OK...

Thanks all,

All the best,

Gus

BTW :renntech: and all the friends I have make here...Thanks to you guys I have done so far: GT3 Console delete, HID retrofit, Horn replacement and radiator cleaning, throttle body cleaning, IPOD install, Radar Detector hard-wiring, Short Shift Install, speakers replacement, rear speaker kit fabrication and install, oil and filter change, brake bleeding, polen filter replacement...

Mine were on there kinda tough too. I think i ended up getting a small screwdriver between the "casing" and the switch and levering it gently off. I also had a ton of trouble getting my gear knob off. Finally did it by putting it into reverse, bracing against the passenger footwell and pulling, hard!

Hi gristy...

The knob was tough indeed, but since I knew it was just a matter of forcing it - I pulled it off very hard by putting the car in neutral and bracing against the fotwell - just as you described. Came off in 10 minutes, but it was a workout!

I am a little reticent on simply forcing the connectors because they seem rather delicate, but if you are saying that there is no trick I will just pry it out with a screwdriver and hope for the best!

Thanks for all your help!

All the best.

Gus

LOL, took me me just over 2 hours!! I agree with Michael, it was a lot easier than i thought.

p.s hey Michael, would you PM me with where you had the 3.4 done?

Man...I guess my skills are below average... :(

Well, I am giving it a try anyway but got stuck in a step no one has ever questioned :clapping:

How do I open/unclip the wiring harness that is connected to the Window switch (picture below)? My Bentley manual just says 'gently pry (it) out'. I have tried, but managed to get the entire switch out.

Thanks,

Gus