Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

gandrade1

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    398
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by gandrade1

  1. Anyone here have any personal experience with speedtech exhausts? Just saw their ad in Panorama and they make a good looking exhaust for the Boxster for only $545 with the PCA discount. Close to my house so I'm gonna go check them out. On the phone they seem like real Porschephiles. Price seems too good to be true. They claim great sound, lightweight, no resonance, quality build, all of the above... If you haven't heard of them here is their website...

    www.speedtechexhausts

    I do not have this one, but I have one built EXACTLY like it. It resonates between about 2600 and 3000 rpm and drones down low around town. Thats in a sweet spot for about 65mph on the highway too. With the top down it isn't objectionable, but with the top up it gets old. It does sound sweet as hell above 3000 rpms though. Enough so that I have lived with the resonance for a year. But now I'm looking for another solution with less resonance.

    Hi Andy,

    Just curious what solution you found....

    Am thinking about an exhaust upgrade for my 01 Boxster, but don't want to spend too much.

    I heard very good reviews of the Maxspeed exhaust, which also happens to have a good price - around $580

    All the best,

    Gus

  2. There is a small screw on the bottom of the bumper cover that holds the bumper cover to the wheel well liner - did you screw it back in? You may have to lift that part of the car and look under to see if the hole in the bumper is aligned with the liner. If it isn't, then you'll have to see if the bottom part of the liner is inserted properly. You may have to unscrew the liner again and play with it until it fits right. You may also have to push on the bumper (laterally, from the outside to the inside).

    I don't think there is any risk of damage, you can safely wait until Sunday.

    I had a similar problem with my car, except I noticed that the bumper cover hole where the bumper meets the liner was missing a side, so the screw wasn't actually holding the bumper, which produced a lateral gap between the liner and the bumper. I could push the bumper and get it close to the liner, but because the screw wasn't holding it, it would go back. Finally I screwed a piece of 2"x2" plastic to the bottom of the bumper cover and then drilled a small hole in that plastic piece to fit the screw and the bumper is where it's supposed to be.

    Good Luck!

    azzar0.

    Thank you so much, azzar0

    I will take a look tonight if it is as simple as getting the screw aligned I will fix it right there. Otherwise, If I need to remove the liner I will wait until Sunday.

    Thanks,

    Gus

  3. Hi guys,

    Last weekend I removed the front bumper for radiator cleaning+horn replacement.

    I put it back and everything looked fine, except for the right (passenger) side wheel liner, which took some effort to put back in. Basically I had to push it a little to get the rivets aligned with the roles. Then I noticed a small gap (right in front of the wheel) between the lower part of thE liner and the bumper. :(

    Could that mean that my front bumper is not properly aligned? If so, why would all the other screws and rivets fall into place without any force...By looking at the bumper and its distance to the front trunk lid and headlights everything looks even.

    How can I confirm that the bumper is aligned and that only the liner has to be dealt with?

    I intend to fix it on Sunday - right after a PCA Car Control Clinic event on Saturday. Is there any risk of damage if I wait until Sunday - that would mean skipping the event on Saturday :cursing: ?

    Thank you so much,

    Gus

  4. Thanks :)

    I test drove a 2005 model with PASM last week. It was a very nice spec car; I would have brought it if it didn't have terracotta leather (looks nice but I couldn't have lived with it every day). I thought the ride was impressively smooth for a sports car.

    Did this car have all the options you are looking for?

    If yes and the price is right...I would go for it! Plus, Terracota is not a very common color, which might differentiate the car a bit and I believe you would grow to love it... In the end if the car handles the way you like, the optionals and the exterior color are right you will get used to the color of the leather!

    That's my personal opinion!

    All the best,

    Gus

  5. How did the horns from Griot's tun out. I would love to hear them before going through the trouble of installing them and not liking them.

    ... besides I have to wrap my head around pulling off the front bumper cover! :huh:

    That was for me the toughest part! I reassembled it, but I guess I need to re-align the right wheel liner a little better, since I ended up with a small gap in the bottom part, which I don't remember being there! Other than that the bumper itself seems to be pretty aligned.

    BTW, I would definetly recommend jacking the car up and removing the front wheels (which I didnt do, but now recognize the mistake) - it will save you a lot of time when dealing with those IMAGINATIVE, CREATIVE, INVENTION OF THE CENTURY plastic rivets and will save your hands from scratches and the arms from bruises!

    All the best,

    Gus

  6. Hi Gus,

    If I left today I could get there by next Saturday. You could help me with my horn and I could help you with your short shifter.

    Karst

    Hi Karst, I love your enthusiasm, man :cheers:

    We are talking about 2,872 mi :o

    I would more than gladly help you with the horn replacement and would greatly appreciate your help with the short shift install...But those would be two expensive replacements, considered the current price of gas!!!

    If you are serious though, you should probably plan ahead of time and take some time to visit the area (New York City specially) - that combined with the experience of taking your car on a road trip across the country might be a worthwhile experience.

    Thank you so much.

    All the best,

    Gus

  7. I did this 5 years ago and did not take notes. I did not have buy anything as I have coffee cans for my nut, bolt, and washer collection. I think the air horn kit also came with hardware. Don't need to use metric stuff. Did not have to drill any holes. The bracket is about 2 feet, maybe 2 feet and a few inches. I think it is sold in 4 foot lengths, or even longer. My bumper cover was off before I started the project so I figured I had enough stuff laying around the garage.

    Whenever I used a bolt I used a locking washer behind it. I also used loctite. I did not want to have to remove the bumper cover if some fastner vibrated loose. I even considered using pop rivets for mounting the bracket.

    After you get the cover off cut the bracket. The bracket will be bolted to the mounting points for the 3rd radiator, which you and I don't have. Then you bolt the compressor and the 3 trumpets to the bracket. Then bolt the bracket to the car.

    Thank you so much, ToolPants...

    Thanks to you, Loren and others here I removed the bumper this weekend by myself, cleaned the radiators and replaced the stock horns with the 3 trumpets...

    The result is amazing! BTW, I broke only one rivet.

    All the best,

    Gus

    :renntech:

    Updates on the material used:

    (1) Same bracket as in ToolPants pics (from HomeDepot) - 2 feet long...They only sell 3 or 4 feet, but one of the guys there was VERY kind as to cut the bracket for me, after some convincing.

    (2) 2 M8 bolts, with regular nuts and locker washers.

    (3) Insulated crimping connectors (4 in my case, but usualy 2 for other styles)

    (4) Electrical tape

    (5) 16 AWG electrical wire

    (6) A lot of patience and care, while removing and re-installing the bumper.

  8. It is a 90 degree angle bracket, made out of sheet metal, with a bunch of holes. I used it for my garage door opener so I had a piece left over. Any home improvement store will have it.

    I forget the guage wire I used. It was 16 or the next larger size. The instruction may have it.

    I hope it is the last time I bother you with this mod :unsure:

    Quick questions:

    (1) What is the distance between the two brackets for the 3rd radiator - in other words - how long does the sheet metal bracket needs to be? I just thought you guys might have the info readily available, I am planning on going to the hardware store during lunch. Otherwise I will just go home in the end of the day and measure it.

    (2) What size of bolts and lock washers do I need, in order to attach the bracket? I read something like M8 - is this readily available at any hardware store?

    All the best,

    Gus

  9. Finally installed the horns yesterday (and cleaned my radiators while I was in there). Great mounting idea TP! For the mounting bracket I used a piece of a leftover steel shelving leg. Since I was taking out the stock horns, I spliced into those wires for power. All kinds of loud now. I don't like the slight delay, but I'll get used to it.

    Thanks again,

    John

    I am also removing the stock horns and replacing them with an air horn kit on my base 986 (MY01). Based on ToolPants postings I found a place to mount the horns and learned how to secure them.

    I have no clue on how to run the electrical connections, however. I would like to keep the electrical connections very simple since all I know is that I need to get a positive wire and a negative wire to somehow connect to the back of the compressor.

    Can anyone please clarify which wires to splice - I was hoping I could just use the positive and negative connections that run to the back of either the low/high OEM pitch horn and connect them to the back of the compressor. I am planning on simply covering with electrical tape the two terminals that go to the OEM horn I will not use.

    Simply, my questions are:

    1) Can I just splice the two OEM horns, isolate the terminals that go to the back of one of them and use the other 2 to connect to the compressor?

    2) From the pair of terminals I choose, how do I know which one is the negative and which one is the positive? Are they color coded?

    3) Since I am mounting the compressor in the center of the bumper (where the 3rd radiator would be) I need the terminals to reach there, so I am simply planning on buying regular 16 gauge wires and running from the original terminals to the center of the radiator - How do I secure my connections? Can I just use electrical tape and 'crimp' the connectors that go to the back of the compressor?

    PS: I dont have a soldering machine...

    Sorry for the many and most likely obvious questions...

    Best,

    Gus

  10. I removing my front bumper to clean the radiators. The 4 plastic riviets is the problem. How are they removed without ruining them? Or, are they to be replaced during reassembly?

    It looks like the whole rivet assembly needs to come out.

    Thanks

    Anyone has a pic of where these infamous rivets are located?

    Thanks,

    Gus

    Did you read the DIY instructions?

    They are on the wheel well liners.

    Just want to make sure I don't miss any of them...I did read the DIY - great by the way.

    Thanks,

    Gus

  11. I removing my front bumper to clean the radiators. The 4 plastic riviets is the problem. How are they removed without ruining them? Or, are they to be replaced during reassembly?

    It looks like the whole rivet assembly needs to come out.

    Thanks

    Anyone has a pic of where these infamous rivets are located?

    Thanks,

    Gus

  12. Hi guys,

    Just got a Hella 3 trumpets horn and I would like to install it in my 01 (base) 986.

    I have read that the front bumper removal is a much smoothier process if done by two people. I was wondering if anyone would like to help and take the opportunity to remove the bumber on his car as well to clean the radiators, which I also intend to take the opportunity and do on mine.

    I live in Jersey City (Newport/Pavonia area), I have 4 jack stands (we only need one pair per car), a low profile hydraulic jack and an assortment of tools. My space is limited but we could try the parking lot in front of my house if it is a nice day out.

    I am also open to other locations.

    Best,

    Gus

  13. Thanks Gus for the reply....,

    Now i was wondering if i ever decide to buy 17 inches wheels.....would they fit right on with 55 offset front and 50 offset rear or i would need to buy wheel spacers.....

    Thanks

    Robert

    Hi Robert,

    Simply put, if you buy 17's with the same offset and bolt pattern (5x130), they will fit right in. If you buy a larger offset, let us say 55mm instead of the 50mm in the rear, you will most likely need 5mm spacers, if you buy a lower ofset let us say 40mm, you will already be 10mm further out, so no spacers can save you!

    I found this nice website you can play with Offset Calculator

    Best,

    Gus

  14. Hello folks......,

    As a new member of Renntech and a new Porsche Boxter owner i would like to say hello to all of you.

    I just bought a 'new to me'' Porsche Boxter 1999 dark blue exterior and gray interior but with 16'' wheels...

    Of corse i would like to upgrade for a newer 17'' wheels.

    My question is....what is the offset of my 16 inches wheels front and rear and what should be the offset of the next 17 inches wheels if i want to keep the exact original look?

    I really don't want to hear nothing about 18 inches whells or bigger.

    Thanks in advance

    Robert

    :welcome:

    There you go:

    6J X 16 @ 50 mm (front)

    7J X 16 @ 40 mm (rear)

    7J X 17 @ 55 mm (front)

    8.5J X 17 @ 50 or 48 mm (rear)

    Best,

    Gus

  15. I put my B-M in by just disconnecting the cables at the shift tower and then just snapping them back on(Porsche Method) and not messing with adjusting the cables at all. It was a breeze, works perfectly. Thanks Tool Pants.

    BTW I've seen a lot of discussion re billet shift ends, worth it, needed?

    Does anyone have any pictures that show where to disconnect the cables on the Porsche Method?

    I don't want to mess with the alignment...

    Thanks,

    Gus

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.