silver_6r

as above... the drivor side mirror will go LEFT--RIGHT but NOT UP--DOWN. it is NOT the switch as the passenger mirror is ok.

i have recently REMOVED and RE-INSTALLED my seats?!

also, my remote wont open or close the doors?!

My 02 C2 has developed a strange gearbox issue. While driving down the road I will loose 1st, 3rd and 5th gears. When I move the shifter around it feels like nothing is there. I can still shift into 2nd, 4th and 6th. If I shutdown the motor and move the shifter around for about five seconds the three gears will return???? The car will then drive normally. This has happened four times now in the last week. It has always happened with the engine not quite at operating temp and I think each time I was slowing down to stop or turn. I do not think I was down shifting each time.

The car has about 55K on it. Could my clutch be going? Does the gearbox protect itself if you grind a gear? When this has happened I have never felt or heard the gears grind and I think I had the cluth fully depressed.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,

Remus

Call GBOX in Colorado...talk to the owner or the lead mechanic there. they will help you diagnose your issues.... free.....

5757 Arapahoe Ave.

Unit C1 East

Boulder, Colorado 80303

Phone: 303.440.8899

i have been pushing them alot.. but they saved my walled a lot of $$$ and talk 2 days to turn around!! and they will actually spend time to talk to you

rod

i basically sucked out all the fluid from the reservoir with a hand pump and hose..... filled the reservoir with new fluid..... turned the car on.. and turned the steering lock to lock several times....

repeat...

there are other ways... but this is the easiest

ill call them but the cost i am looking at with vertex is 2500 + core and shipping, do they do anything special at gbox? what engagement issues are you referring to?

do a search for "2nd gear pop out", gears not engaging or anything like that on this forum or 6speed. or you can call them and they will explain it to you. basically it has something to do with how much room there is for the gear to engage in 1st and 2nd gears... so i cant really remember the specifics, but GBOX will explain it to you even if you dont buy from them.

i talked to the master mechanic for over 30min.... and i hadnt even told them i wanted to get my box fixed

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-tur...click-here.html

i just flushed an entire bottle of PENTOSIN through the system... and the fluid is still coming out black, but getting cleaner..... so yea some definite degradation somewhere....

Check your Power steering fluid level and make sure you have enough in the reservoir. I had the same thing a few years back, only made the noise when cold and during right turns. My fix was to add some fluid. Make sure you use only mineral based PS fluid.

yup thats the first thing i did...

i know there technically isnt a "bleeding" method other than turning the steering lock to lock several times, but i wonder about the fluid. i mean all oils are hygrophilic (absodb water) so a full flush would bo good every 100K km's or so?!

well, let us know what you find out. It's cold and rainy where i'm at for the extended forecast so i won't be able to take a look for a while. Plus I've got so much work to do on getting my 83 westy road ready. Def. don't want to take it into the shop without knowing what were looking at. Keep us posted!

bmohr

well, i havent looked yet.. but i did talk to SUNSET in oregen... REMAN PORSCHE RACK, plus all tie rods and parts (boots and ties) ~$830..which is a steal compared to canadian pricing!

but, i dont think this should be something i need to do for some time.. i havent lost any fluid and dont have any bubbles or anything else in the pup reservoir....

Hello - I have been looking into companies that rebuild transmissions and have narrowed it down to a couple. I was trying to get some feed back on Vertex auto, see if anyone had experience with their rebuilt transmission or as a service company in general

see my post on 6speed...

GBOX kicks ***! honest and quick service.... i got my box replaced, they swapped my LSD form my trashed box to there new one and replaced the won LSD plates... ~$3500

they also modify the internals to eliminate future engagement issues...

talk to Josh....

5757 Arapahoe Ave.

Unit C1 East

Boulder, Colorado 80303

Phone: 303.440.8899

Fax: 303.440.0994

Check with the folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for a better pricing (I quote list here because that is all I have).

i got my box rebuilt and upgraded by GBOX in colorado.... 3 day turnaround.... $3550 us inlcuding new diff plates. modified first and second gear landing for improved shift engagement as well.

talk to Josh

GBOX

5757 Arapahoe Ave.

Unit C1 East

Boulder, Colorado 80303

Phone: 303.440.8899

encountered a simliar issue this morning. It's gotten colder over the past few days. Here a strange noise turning right. But only for a small portion of the turn radius..just the beginning of the turn.

yea thats it!

Normal amount? Unless the power steering is leaking you should never really need to add any.

You might want to pull the front underbody cover off and have a look at the steering rack. Look for signs of small leakage or damage.

yea was going to do that this weekend

thanks

this item is listed on Ebay and i was wondering if any have had experence with them. do they really add 12HP?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...d=p4506.c0.m245

my understanding is that an engine needs some backpressure. bypass removes just about all of it so you'll experience some loss of torque at low RPMs. as to whether or not they'll add 12 HP, the only way to know for sure is to dyno your car with them. try getting on a dyno check the HP and then get on the dyno again without mufflers. this will show you what changes, if any, you'd experience with bypass pipes.

its has been proven that NOTHING ADDS ANY SIGNIFICANT power increase to NA engines other than a SC. i have had muffler by-pass pipes.. and other than sounding wonderful... do not add HP... and for street use are not good as they shift the torque curve way up... noticably.

make your own with 90' stainless elbows, weld straight sections to them... get a shop to flare out one side so that they slide over the exhaust.... add tips... or not.... WAY CHEAPER...same result

nobody got any ideas? LOREN?!

Hey guy's, I've got a 2000 996 C2 Tip with 103k miles. Just replaced the alternator 2 weeks ago due to bearing going out. I never paid much attention to the voltmeter but before it would typically sit between 12 and 14V when driving. Well, I have been paying more attention and notice that when starting the car the volt gauge drops all the way down to about 10 then as the car starts up runs up to 14V. Car starts right up no issues there. I just wasn't sure about the voltage dropping that low. After initial 14V run car settles in right about the middle of 14 and 12. Last week I had to sit at a light for 30 minutes. Voltage went from about 13 (usual running) down to right above the 12. Is my battery going?

So can someone watch their volt gauge when they start and see if it drops down to 10.

Thanks

seems normal, what else was on while you where at the light? radio, AC, heater, heated seats etc. these will all make your voltage momentarily go up and down.

and i would check your battery to see if it is holding a charge using a voltmeter. but it is usual to see the voltage drop at startup, especially as it gets colder.... as long as it comes up right after the car has finished cranking and is running

Rod

HELLO ALL... AGAIN!

so... i have the following issue...

when i turn to the RIGHT...and ONLY THE RIGHT... i get some whining from the front of the car... i can only hear it from inside the car... i stood outside of the car and couldnt hear anything. the whining is present while stationary and rolling. it does seem to go away if i turn the wheel slowly...

i checked the PS fluid... looked clean. i added about maybe less then 10ml to the reservoir, which i think is a normal amount. i have no leaks, no increased steering effort. it has gotten colder around here...but thats about it.

1999 996 C2

6 speed

~102000 km

canada

thanks all in advance...

The 997 3.6 headers are the same as the 996 3.6 headers. You don't actually want the 997S headers. Neither of the 997 units is the old x51 for the 3.4 or 3.6. The new 3.8 x51 headers are the ones to get. imho

as above... will this work.. is there any advantage?

are the 997 headers the old X51 headers for 996?

i am looking into getting these..thanks in advance

my car:

1999 996 3.4 C2

100k km (as of yesterday!!)

Rod

so would it make any difference at all? better flow due to bigger diameter tubing and new design? i am getting them for free.. thats why i ask

thanks

Rod

as above... will this work.. is there any advantage?

are the 997 headers the old X51 headers for 996?

i am looking into getting these..thanks in advance

my car:

1999 996 3.4 C2

100k km (as of yesterday!!)

Rod

HI all... well, i just removed my mufflers... and i have one question...

what is the MAX diameter that i could use for the bypass? and would having a curved pipe have any advantage? possibly WRT flow?

thanks in advance for your help... i have bypass pipes on for now... hmm what a sound!!

I've never driven a 911 with a short shifter, but I often read it doesn't help smooth shifting. Now, as you say that things worsened progressively, I wouldn't put the blame on it. First thing I would try after an oil change is checking the shift cables position. You need the special tool 9619 to do that properly. You can find it here:

http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm (search 9619).

They no longer display the price, but it costs $10-15.

If you suspect some excessive wear of the gearbox, one of the things you can try before a teardown is an oil sample analysis. You can order a kit on www.youroil.net for $20. If results don't look good, next step is to take the transmission out and have it inspected. Considering your mileage, it can be a good occasion to change clutch + RMS. Don't know how much a gearbox repair would cost you, but don't expect it to be cheap.

Regarding the LSD, check the S/N. If it says G26002XXXXXX, you should have it, if it says G26001XXXXXX, you shouldn't.

Laurent

thanks for the info... well, i think that i will definetly put my car away for a bit, save some cash, and get a rebuilt box... and yes i verified it has an LSD box number... so go figure... it does have 98000km on it... so who knows whats up...

thanks all for the help,

Rod

LSD: lift the rear of car - gearbox in neutral - turn one rear wheel in the driving direction - the opposite wheel will turn in the same direction.

NON LSD: the opposite wheel will turn in the other direction.

Hence the reason I suggested to look at the stamping on the transaxle. The option list could be a misprint, or if you are not the original owner, the prior owners may have had the transaxles replaced and did not get the LSD. Bad clutch pacs should still allow the opposite wheel to rotate in the same direction, reason being, there is no drag and are spinning freely so worn clutch pacs may not show up spinning the wheel but act up under driving conditions.

update... i havent looked under the car yet.... BUT i did want to add that as long as the car gets into 1st gear, it will not pop out... it is just having issues engaging 1st sometimes...

as far as the lsd... i was also told by a reputable shop that it did have and LSD when they serviced the clutch and the gearbox oil...and when the car is in nuetral... and i turn one wheel.. the other doesnt turn at all

May I be so bold as how you actually know you have and LSD? Did you check the stamping on the case, the 6th digit should tell you if you have an open diff, or LSD.

its on my options list.... MY99 with traction control and option code 220 which is the lsd

ok...

first... the specifics...

1999 996 C2 with LSD

98000km

B&M Short shift kitg

GMG Sport Clutch Kit (GMG Lightwwight flywheel, Sachs Race Engineering Full Faced Disc, Sachs Race Engineering Pressure Plate)

ok.. here is my problem...

i know that these kits are loud... clutch out... lots of chatter... clutch in, quiet as a bug... when in gear and driving.... its sounds like i have a cut gear box...normal right?

now.... here is the question... recently i have been having a little more trouble shifting from 1--2, no grind, just a little harder DOES NOT POP OUT. also i have been having to blip the gas to get into 1st from neutral... or else it wont go in all the time and actually pop out. and i feel like i really have to press the clutch pedal in to get it in 1 gear... the car is still drivable

i just changed the gear oil.... some metalics and very dark... the oil was previosly changed ~10000km ago...the box got a little quieter, and ~10% smoother....

second question... when the car is in the air.. i can spin the rear tires freely...when in gear... i can spin one tire and the other goes opposite....is this normal for an LSD or are the plates worn?

i know that a lot... but i thank you in advance...as my baby might have to go to sleep for awhile if i need to get a tranny.....

Rod

Assuming it was not sitting completely level, ie. front higher then rear and about half a quart extra had been added, given the internals of the tranny, would you expect any negative effects?

Joost

I would jack it up remove the plug - lower the jack so the car is level and let any excess drain out.

Then raise it up and put the plug back in.

so would using one quart of heavy shock proof and two of super light weight be the right way to go?

i have a '99 996 with lightweight flywheel and a B&M... loud gears.... and very notchy.... the important thing here is that 1-->2 is a little harder to get in than the rest... no grinding, no popping out... just harder to get into... so i want to put in different oil to aleviat the situation

i do autoX and some track days... i DONT grind gears.. and i am very carefull when shifting...

also, what fluid do you recommmend for the clutch system

thanks,

Rod

excellent!!!

awesome.....thanks for the quick response!!

Rod

:renntech:

hi all,

i was checking my car over with the durametric software... and observed something odd...

first my car feels fine..no issues, no cel, BUT

the durametric software says that i am only reaching 75-80 throttle open...when the plate is actually at 100%

here is a graph....

does this sound normal?

car is 1999 996 C2, ~97000km