ltcjmramos

Original battery, I believe. I'll need to check that. Mfg date 6/03. I'm the 3rd owner, and bought the car with 12K on it. Car now has 29K on it. I haven't replaced the battery, and doubt if it was replaced prior to my purchase.

No tests yet.

Frankly, with the battery as old as it is, I might just go ahead and buy a new one. Any recommendations for a replacement unit?

How old is your battery?

Have you had the specific gravity of each cell tested?

Have you had the battery removed from the car and load tested?

Hi Guys

Hoping someone can give me some ideas on what to check for an intermittent starting problem I've experienced twice over the past two months. Both times, I was out for a spirited drive, shut down the car for a short time (less than 5 minutes), and when I went to start it up, no go. The voltage would drop right off so much that the odometer would reset. After 3-4 tries at starting, it catches. It's a weak catch, but does start up. If it sits for something like a lunch break, no problem starting.

Voltage meter shows 12.6V at rest, 13.7V charging. The car sits about a week at a time with a Porsche cigarette lighter battery maintainer plugged in. No issue with first start after sitting.

Any help/advice appreciated.

Is there a multiple disc unit that would be a direct replacement for my installed CDR23 ('04 GT3), either changer or 6-disc unit?

Thanks

I think which car would be best for you is very subjective. IMO, as a DD, I would definitely go with the 997. As a track/performance car, and one that most P-car folks would appreciate more, the GT3. I went from a '99 C2 to a 993TT to my '04 GT3.

At the time, the GT3 was the perfect car for my track-oriented use. I was injured in a motorcycle accident a couple of years ago, and have lost function in my right foot; no more heel n toe (not that I was much good at it anyway). Combined with that, the fact that my advancing years makes it more of a chore to prep for track days, and my ins co stopped covering DEs, I no longer track. I have been jawing about moving to a 997S or an Aston Martin V8 Vantage for over a year now, but find it hard to part with the GT3, especially at the depressed prices out there (which is good for you).

At any rate, the GT3 will be much noisier, much rougher riding, and more twitchy than the 997. Depends on what comfort level you want.

While installing Cargraphic grills a couple of weeks ago, I noted that I had the panel pictured below only on the pax side. Couldn't see any indication that it was missing from the driver's side, e.g., empty attachment holes. Looks like I'm missing this shield on the driver side. I assume it was not replaced when I had the driver side fender replaced (that's another story). Can you give me the p/n of the driver side shield so I can check against the repair order? Thanks

Got it done with some help from my friends.

I need some help!!

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, which would not be surprising, but I'm having a terrible time reinstalling the bumper after installing Cargraphic grills I bought. The bumper removal went easily. The installation of the grills seemed to go OK, but I cannot get the bumper to go back on.

Do the grills go in the channel around the openings? Seem to fit quite nicely. But I can't get the center duct to fit over the installed grill, so the bumper will not reseat. Was that channel supposed to be removed?

Help!

MOST vs. wired.

You will nee to change much more than the radio.

Thanks

Loren

Over in the For Sale section is:

I have a fully integrated Sirius Starmate 5 with a faceplate allowing for direct replacement of the upper storage compartment. This is for the Becker CDR-220 head unit and requires that the factory cd changer be unplugged to allow for direct connection of the sat radio. This is not an fm modulator or broadcast system, this the the greatest sound quality achievable. You toggle through the Becker head unit menu to AUX to listen to the sat radio. Total package valued in excess of $175.

comes with all necessary install cables and tools including-

-Radio removal keys

-Becker BNA-1319.116 Aux-In Cable

-Hardwire cables to connect to existing 986/996 4-pin phone connector allowing unit to be switched on/off with vehicle ignition)

-RCA cables

-OEM Sirius Antenna

Any chance this could replace a CDR-23?

000.721.964.70 Tool - Hook spanner -- US MSRP $75.49

Thanks

Hi

Getting ready for tomorrow's Loma Prieta/Parts Heaven Swap Meet, and amongst the many odds and ends I have found a spanner, p/n 000.721.964.70. I believe this is used to adjust the perch height on the adjustable coilovers on my GT3. Can you confirm that use, and any idea what the price of it is?

Thanks

Hi

The cover on the "sash guide retaining bracket" has come off, and I can't figure out how to put it back on. Seems like it should just snap back on, but have not been able to do that. Anyone have some guidance, and or a pic of the interior of that piece so I can be sure it's not broken?

(A pic of what I'm talking about is on pages 4 and 5, 70-51, of the repair manual for the 996, Removing and Installing Trim of A, B, and C Pillars. It's the part id 7. Tried to past a pic here, but couldn't get it to work.)

180, and even on hot days at the track 200.

Are you giving the car time to get up to temp (180) before getting on it hard [in the morning (after the car has been garaged)]? Need to do that. Nonetheless, never experienced this condition.

Hi Guys!

What temp does your gauge normally read once your car is fully warmed up?

Also several times now, when I take my car out particularly in the morning (after the car has been garaged), after the first time I drive the car hard, the warning light in the temp gauge starts blinking. Each time this happens I turn of the engine quickly for a few seconds and start it up again....after which the blinking warning light is gone. And when I drive the car hard again it doesn't light up anymore for the rest of the day! It's quite weird but has any of you guys experienced this. Wonder what's going on....

For the past few months I have not been able to get a full tank of gas. The gauge reads 7/8 at best. From my recorded mpg and the gallons accepted, seems that the tank will not accept the last 1-2 gallons. Is there a vent or some such I could check?

Found this on another forum...

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/160...996-nb-pic.html

Still not clear to me if it fits or not though.

They fit with 6 mm spacers all around.

I would suggest, if you have an i-pod, Zune or other mp3 player, that you will be much happier installing the adapter cable for it and the mp3 player instead of the cd-changer. To date, I have about half my audio library on a Zune connected to the aux cable for the CDR-220. I just set it on shuffle and have around 2000 songs in almost any rotation i want. It is like having your own radio station. It give you many more options of cds or songs to listen to 6+1 CD vs 200 CDs or more. It is also less expensive ($25 US) than tracking down a previously used CD changer (maybe $200US.) Also, you don't have to go into the front trunk to change discs. The quality of sound is comparable to having a CD playing.

Would you tell me more about this adapter cable? I have Creative Zen Vision:M and iAudio X5 MP3 players.

I've posted a thread over on RL http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...ger-in-gt3.html looking for info on CD changer, XM radio (I understand the Cayenne unit will do this), and connectivity to an MP3 player. I also posted here over on the GT3 forum.

I was about to order the FM modulator recommended in that thread http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142FMMOD02/Sc...tor&tp=1287. Is what you're talking about the same sort of thing? If not, can you amplify, please?

BTW, I have the CDR23 in my car.

Still on the hunt for an audio upgrade for my GT3. I tracked my GT3 for a couple of years, but am off the track now due to injuries suffered in a motorcycle accident. The GT3 has been and will remain a street car. I've used it on a couple of longer trips, and would like to expand the audio options I have in it.

The car now has the CDR-23 AM/FM/CD player installed. I'd like to keep things as stock as possible. I'm thinking about:

1. CD changer - I need the CDC-4, MOST. Anyone know if the cable to hook up the changer is already there? Is an amp needed? If so, is there one in place?

2. XM radio - this will require a new radio, or an aftermarket unit that I could hide in the glovebox, I guess.

3. Connectivity to MP3 player - I do not have an iPod. I have a Creative Zen Vision:M. I tried the Belkin FM modulator connection, but it doesn't work very well. Anyone try the Scosche FM-MOD02? Is this a DIY install?

I'm not looking for a hi-fi solution. I'm an older guy, retired from the military where too much time in noisy aircraft and under artillery fire has left my hearing a little impaired. Besides, the GT3 is too noisy for a high-end solution, IMO.

Hello there,

Thanks for this great forum :)

I wonder which is the best brake ducts for GT3? I've seen on the PET that there are two models :

For example in Right for a 2004 :

996.341.118.91 GT3

996.341.118.92 GT3 RS

Which is de difference between these?

Is de model for the cup is longer/better? Is anyone has the number OEM?

Thanks guys.

Can't respond to the p/n question, but the RS or Motorsport duct is deeper to catch more air, therefore, better cooling. It also scrapes a bit on some irregularities such as curbing. For street driving, I'd assume not much different. For tracking, better cooling as I noted.

This has been discussed a few times over on Rennlist. Go to the GT2/GT3 forum there for more detail, but in essence, why would you tb the GT3 rather than just buy a GT2? The conversion expense would take you beyond the cost of a GT2.

Several years ago, I had a similar sounding problem driving my 993TT. Much to my embarrassment, it was loose lugnuts. I'd been doing track events for many years, and for some reason, this time, had failed to check the torque of the nuts after a session. Ended my day early since I couldn't find a problem, drove all the way home, no problem (luckily). Drove it to the dealer. Tech took it out with me, heard the noise, tightened the nuts.

I looked on the mufflers I took off my '04 GT3 (I replaced them with Cargraphic units), and could not find a p/n on the cans. I have p/n 996 111 054 o3 on the tips, but assume that's the tip p/n and not the mufflers.

From your description mine does the same, and I drive mine 2-3 times a week, 100-150 each time. Does it harm it in the long run? Have no idea.

It may be I'm getting old, but unless I'm on the track with mine, all I get out of it is frustration. It needs to use its 6-8K rpm band, and to do that on the street and/or backroads is near insane. Unfortunately, my track days are over, and I'm trying to use it as a weekender (which are 5 days long for me as I'm semi-retired). I'm ready to sell it, and move to a 997 4S, but my wife is adamant that we keep it through the Summer at least. Time will tell.

See http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=443483

In reversing it out of the garage after it sits, mine sounds like gravel being picked up and thrown against the bottom of the car. Never had it looked at, but figured something like this since it's consistent.

Hi,

I have just got a set of PFC Pads for my GT3 and the Front Pads have no Brake wear insert slot on the front, the rears have the cut out on the pad but it is the wrong shape (square shaped)

I have 05 GT3 996 that I'm converting from PCCB to Steel disks, if it make a difference..

Not sure if I should just disconnect the sensors, or whether I have the wrong spec pads? (otherwise they fit perfectly!)

Appreciate any advice..

thanks

Will

Can't address the compatibility of the pads since I use Pagids, but since I tracked my car, and changed out wheels and pads regularly, I just zip-tied the sensors out of the way. I was in there often enough to see if the street pads needed changing.