ltcjmramos

Anyone know what parts are needed to cant the 3rd radiator so that it works with the top vent in the cover, ala GT3RS or GT2?

If you don't get an answer here, check over on the Rennlist 996 GT3 forum. Search on viperbob as he posted the part numbers some time back. If I find the link, I'll let you know.

Hmmm.... The only place I've seen fuses like that is incorporated into plugs....like the ones in the plugs on holiday light strings....and like the ones sometimes seen in 12V adaptor/cigarette lighter plugs. Maybe a spare from a radar detector 12V plug or something?

Could be the holiday lights, but think even too small for those. I was very doubtful it would have anything to do with the car, but thought that perhaps there was something in line to/from the radiator as I found it under its position on the car.

Hi

Was under the GT3 yesterday more firmly attaching the RS lip spoiler, and found a very small glass fuse on the ground. It's labeled (UL)3A, and is about 1/4" long. Any chance it came off the GT3? I know I never bought a fuse like that, so have no idea from where it might have come.

Thanks, lots of good info!

Hi Guys

My front spoiler is loose, and pops off easily. Did a 140 mph run a couple of weekends ago, and it came very loose. I need to secure it much better.

A couple of places different type of rivets are recommended for attaching the front spoiler. On Rennlist, Viperbob recommended the OE part 999 507 427 40, and someone cited a NAPA p/n 665-2388. Do you prefer one over the other?

I have a bag of 999 507 497 40. Are these the standard rivets?

Also, because a reinforcing bar tore out, and made some of my holes bigger, I need to drill a few holes to accommodate new locations for rivets. The holes look to me to be between 5/16" and 3/8". I assume these would be "metric" holes, so 8 mm. Can you confirm, please?

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The job is a straightforward DIY, but I would recommend getting the plastic centering tool to help you realign the cables with the install. ...

I assume the tool can be had from a dealer. Any idea what it costs? Or does anyone have one I can borrow?

Jeff (Tool Pants) has one.

Thanks. How do I contact him? PM through here?

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The job is a straightforward DIY, but I would recommend getting the plastic centering tool to help you realign the cables with the install. ...

I assume the tool can be had from a dealer. Any idea what it costs? Or does anyone have one I can borrow?

The 2 parts in your pic are technically all you will need to go back to stock. However, your OEM plastic bushings were discarded with the B&M install. Just mount the OEM shift stalk within the B&M aluminum bushings.

The EVO link is simply replaced by the OEM spring loaded connector in your pic.

The job is a straightforward DIY, but I would recommend getting the plastic centering tool to help you realign the cables with the install. Also, get some grease to help the spring loaded connector back onto the ball end of the shifter stalk.

Thanks. I'll assume I can continue to use the Evo linkage. Also, thinking to get a set of the stock bushings, so I can sell the B&M kit.

Hi

A couple of years ago, I had a B&M short shift kit and Evo linkage installed in my '04 GT3. I now want to revert to the stock shifter. Above is a pic of the stock parts that were returned to me at the time of the B&M transplant. Two questions:

1. What other parts do I need to go back to stock;

2. Is this a fairly simple DIY?

Thanks

I have 4 deg shims!! I gotta learn to read. I thought both p/n were the same with one designated "L" and the other "R." P/n's are different. I have .821. and .822. The .821 has the "L" appended to the p/n, .822 has an "R."

So how different in handling terms are the shims?

Doubt if my uneducated butt could tell, but never ran the GT3 on the track without them. I was advised at the outset that they would add downforce, so just started out with them.

996 512 821 90 Adjusting Mechanism 4 Grad

996 512 823 90 Adjusting Mechanism 8 Grad

The parts list does not say 1 pair or 2 each but I would assume they are sold in pairs. These are MotorSport part numbers.

And mine reads 996.512.822.90. Might there be a 6 deg shim?

Sorry, cancelled. Am in LA caring for my dad, and uncertain when I'll be returning. I'm trying to post via my BB, and have had problems accessing. Someone pls confirm the posting via email to me, pls. Jmramos@gmail.com.

Like anyone going down the "mod" road, I suggest you set your goals first. That would be in either the amount of additional power you want to make, and/or the amount of money you want to spend. In most cases, the answer to how fast do you want to go is how much money do you want to spend.

Got the retrofit done at the dealer where I had bought the car a couple of years ago. From the repair order.

Parts:

1 996-613-219-10-EWC, Column switch assy

1 PNA-721-043-00-040, Repair set K - #9600

2 PNA-721-043-00-063, Repair set 03 - #960

10 999-513-007-40, Tie-wraps ($2.45 ea!!!, what a crock!!)

1 PNA-721-043-00-122, Electrical housing #960122

$343 in parts, $225 in labor

NOTES: Installed column switch, and fabricated wiring harness. Coded and verified operations

will it be okay to go, just to watch and learn and probably ask some few pointers? and also to meet local Boxster owners :)

Of course.

Hi All

Had the pleasure of meeting Loren yesterday. Gave me an excuse to run the GT3 down to his home then back up Hwy 9 to Hwy 35 to Hwy 84 to Hwy 1 to home in Half Moon Bay. :jump: Lots of nice roadway!

Back to a "Work on Cars" day, I'll be hosting one in January. Loren and I were talking about it, and thought trying to do one between now and the first of the year might be tough given folks' Holiday schedules. I'm thinking the 20th or the 27th of January. It'll be at my home in Half Moon Bay. (BTW, by that time the scissor lift will be gone.)

Chime in on a preferred date, please. Also, what work would you like to get done.

I'd like to do an oil change, and change the motor mounts.

It's now set for Saturday, January 27th. Please see http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11825, and post there your intention to participate and what work you will want to get done so we can consolidate info at the one place. Thanks

Hi

It's been decided that the next Work on Cars day will begin at 9 AM, Saturday, January 27. It will be held at my home/garage in Half Moon Bay.

Directions:

From 880/101/280, take Hwy 92 West to Half Moon Bay

Hwy 92 ends at Hwy 1

Left (South) on Hwy 1 to first stop light

Right on Kelly (Tres Amigos Tacqueria on the corner)

Left on Potter at third stop sign

Right on Miramontes at first stop sign

I'm on the right toward the end of the block

205 Miramontes

From the other thread on this:

Tips from past Work On Cars Days...

1. Make sure you have all of your parts - and that they are the right parts.

2. If you are changing fluids (oil, brake fluid, etc.) - plan to bring something to carry them away in.

3. Plan to clean up any spills or mess you make.

4. Help us plan ahead - tell us what you want to do.

Depending on the number of people/cars we try not to take on anything that will take more than a couple of hours each.

BTW, it appears I will still have my scissor lift.

I see this write-up for retrofitting cruise control to a 986 (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=661). Would this be applicable to an '04 996 GT3?

I'm buying a GT3 Mk2 from a Porsche dealer and when I looked underneath the car at my inspection, the right hand side (from the front) brake air flow duct looked at a different angle to the left hand side one. Can these come loose or should they be different? Any help would be great as if there is a problem I'll get it sorted before pick-up!

I have the Motorsport ducts, which are larger than the stock ones, but they are positioned the same on each side, which I would think should be the case for the stock units.

Steve

Have you posted over at Rennlist and/or 6speedonline? I think you'll get more action there.

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Guys,

Great photos and job on the wing. I have a red GT3 and am thinking of something similar. How did this impact the control on the track (i.e. at DEs).

Thanks

My uneducated butt couldn't tell you if it really made a difference. I've done about 20 days of DEs with the car. The first 3-4 were with the stock wing, and I was taking it fairly easy learning how to drive a Porsche with its unique dynamics. Once I was comfortable with the car and wringing it out, the cf wing was already on.

I've been told it increases downforce, and, of course, since I spent $$$, it must. BTW, I also put a set of the shims under it to further increase the downforce.

I have a set of shims to adjust the cant of the GT3 wing. It's p/n 996.512.822.90R (and -L). Is this the 4 deg or 8 deg shim?

(sorry for the lousy shots - it's been dark and overcast all afternoon)

Philip

"dark and overcast" in England? How can that be?

But same here. I live on the Coast just South of San Francisco. We get more than our share of marine layer.

I saw the pics over on Rennlist of the SY with its winglets painted. I really like that look, and may go that route, but, for now, I like the cf to complement my wheels.

Woohoo - thanks I guessed it would be easy enough - just wanted to be sure there wasn't a catch :) Looks like I'll be in the garage tomorrow morning :D

Love to see a photo of yours - I can't decide whether to leave it in CF of paint it guards to match the car :unsure:

Thanks again

Philip

Left mine cf since I have Forgeline SX3 wheels, black centers/polished rims. They complement each other. Also, have the RS vented hood, so a bit of black in the grill coverings there. too.