LowFlyR

Alignment done. Not the greatest result:

What should I do next. Tech said that rear camber is at limiters.

Thanks,

Jake

I just finished changing the rear springs, I have not done alignment YET. Rear dropped a WAY more than front: front 3/4", rear 1.5". Is that normal with Eibach Pro Kit? I try to get alignment done tomorrow or Tuesday.

I have 01 S Tip and last weekend I changed front springs to Eibach Pro's. No problem there. This weekend is time to do same to the rear. I have a close situation at the rear. Clearance to the strut is about 2-3mm (~0.1") after using 7mm spacers. With a 1" lower spring this should not get worse?? Or am I wrong? I need the car on Monday for work, so all complications including rubbing will be "lethal" :oops:

Help, please,

Jake

the M030 bars for 986 are all interchangable. the trick setup is the 'S' M030 front with the base M030 rear.

Insite: I have 01 S Tip and I heard that Tip cars already have M030 sways in the back? I'm currently in the middle installing Eibach Pro springs and I might have a possibility to get M030 S front sway, would that work? Do you think that I should change rear sway to non-S M030?

Thanks,

Jake

Finally found this delightful write-up: most impressive. I have been wanting to do this for a long time on our '99 Tip- ever since I bought a great looking unit w/silver dials.

This is now so long ago that I can't recall what I was told by the fleabay seller....

So, after having read this over a few times, time to look at the back of the unit and "OUCH" wrong numbers !

996 641 980 27 70C - problem is I can't find anything even close in my 2004 PET. I end up with the 996TT having 996 641 985 xx yy as the closest so wonder if anyone might have a clue as to the likely donor ? It is the "old-fashioned" version so think 2004 PET should cover the applicable models and yes it's labelled USA. One more point - it has a 7200rpm redline.

Anyone willing to venture a guess or better ?

Many thanks in advance,

Nils

If you read the whole long thing, you found out (it was somewhere in the beginning) that turbo one does not work. I don't recall the reason, but the gurus here probably will. Sorry, I cannot be more help.

Jake

P.S. Later I found this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...49&hl=turbo

Update: I finally did re-code my cluster today and it looks like it worked! Of course I can not be sure before I put some miles on it, but I think gas gauge works better now. Also my e-brake light started working after re-code.

Thanks Bill & Loren for all your help! :renntech: :renntech:

It worked. My fuel gauge is OK. E-brake is OK. Only thing is that I lost my cruise, I must forgot to code it somewhere. Back to the shop, some day... It is not that important to me.

See my blog for my mods:

http://www.myspace.com/porsche986s

I've done a Forum search and really couldn't find an answer so I'll pose it here and hope it's not an old subject. The pads on my 03 Boxster S are likely originals and hard as a rock. I'm not overly impressed with their stopping power even in moderate street driving, so it's time to replace them. There are so many different aftermarket brands out there that I don't have a clue as to what works best. I'm looking for a good solid street pad that generates a minimum of dust if you can have both worlds. Any input is appreciated.

Lyn

I use Mintex pads and I'm quite happy with price/dust.

This is what I did:

Then I wired the opener next to drivers side sun shade. It took less than an hour an switch was around $25 from Sunset. :D

UPDATE: It was one water hose which had rubbed in to something solid. Shop said that they have never seen that water hose so close. So I must thank local stealership which repaired an oil leak just before I purchased the car 21mo and 12kmls ago.

And of course my warranty don't cover the hose.

Glad it was relatively benign.....

Happy Boxstering....

Mike

For me it would rather be the tank or pump, because warranty woud have paid for those and it would have cost me less.... :D

UPDATE: It was one water hose which had rubbed in to something solid. Shop said that they have never seen that water hose so close. So I must thank local stealership which repaired an oil leak just before I purchased the car 21mo and 12kmls ago.

And of course my warranty don't cover the hose.

You might try looking for these pads at places like Autohausaz...I've never used these specific pads personally, but I see them being sold as an alternative to OEM pads. You can do better than this eBay listing...seller listing of 98.6% is not stellar and I could not find a corresponding match for the replacement part number listed for a 986. :huh:

Bill B)

Yeah, Autohauz. I ordered my rear brake rotors from them, because they were the cheapest. They cancelled the order for not in stock, but they already charged my carrd. It took forever to get them reverse the charge, they were firsrt saying that it will drop off after 3-5 business days. Nice, but I do not have extra $350 to play around with. It took me several calls to get this finally resolved so I was able to order them from Sunset.

Bad taste, do NOT recommend Autohauz,

Jake

I had my low coolant warning come on and because temps were OK I kept driving because I was only few mile from home. When I stopped to a red light I saw some white steam on my mirror. I parked the car and steam continued. Temps never went past 0 on 180 on the gauge. I was only 2 miles from home, but I called my wife to pick me up. We returned 2 hrs later with water. Car had cooled down, so I added almost 1 gallon to get it to full mark and drove home. @ home I looked again and it was not visible @ the tank. So I filled up 1 gallon more and fired it up for a short period of time again. I checked the level, it was OK.

My guess is either waterpump or hose? Any better ideas? Car runs fine.

Update: I finally did re-code my cluster today and it looks like it worked! Of course I can not be sure before I put some miles on it, but I think gas gauge works better now. Also my e-brake light started working after re-code.

Thanks Bill & Loren for all your help! :renntech: :renntech:

I need new rotors for my 2001 Boxster S the most cost effective ones I have found are from Pelican Parts. Here is the link to the two sets available http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...BRKpad_pg3.htm# Does anyone know the difference between the Zimmerman rotors and the Genuine Porsche? Is it worth paying the extra $40 (not a significant sum of money but one that I would prefer to not needlessly waste) for the OEM replacement or are the Zimmerman parts of comparable or even better quality?

I bought these 2.5 months ago and I have been very happy. (no affiliation)

Rotors & pads

Here is a link to my blog when I changed them (look for May 10, 2008):

My Blog

And one pic:

I did my rear brakes on 4th of July. I still need to paint the calibers. G2 paint kit need less than 70F and I'm in Las Vegas.... :D

When I did this on mine, I did not take steering wheel off. I just disconnected the 4th stalk off the new unit, unscrewed steering column screws, separated column covers, screwed 4th stalk to its place, did the wiring (of course instrument cluster needed to be removed) and put it back together. Worked fine. :clapping:

I did not need to replace my other stalk switches, they all work fine.

Hope this helps. :renntech:

The OBC stalk is held on to the side of the main stalk unit with 2 screws - it's a detatchable unit, but not available as a separate part (AFAIK). I guess you must be able to take off the steering column covers without removing the steering wheel from what LowFlyR is saying.

I have 3-spoke steering wheel. I don't know if this works with 4-spoke.

Turn steering 90deg to right to access 2 right screws behind it, then same to the left.

Unscrew 1 screw both sides located in the middle of the column.

Then you can separete column halves. I left bottom one there and just took off the top one.

After that it is pretty easy to see where 4th stalk attaches.

I purchased the whole assembly, but when I saw that I don't have to take the wheel of this way....

Hope this helps. I gotta go pick up an Aerokit II Decklid with spoiler, but I'll be back later.

Bravo Bill, Bravo! Great writeup.

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

See, this is important knowledge you don't get when you never go faster than 135mph. :D

Mine stayed on fine @ 140mph... :drive: :oops:

I just gotta wait until I can get the 4-stalk.

I finally was able to finish my OBC install. I found full 4-stalk switch assembly from a dismantler in Seatle for only $55 shipped! Now I can fully control the OBC. I only added the 4th stalk and I did not even take my steering wheel off. Here is 4th stalk installed:

And here is a screen of the OBC:

This one is done, now I must tackle my fuel gauge issue... :thankyou:

I have a Maxspeed one that was on there before but I got a good deal on this PSE so I went with it - much better on the resonance. However, I was never able to experience it with the top down. I was in the middle of selling the Maxspeed but now I may put it back and get diffusers instead which I really like the looks of.

The other thought I had was to get hi temp paint and put that on the pipes.

Well, you know my opinion (from the other forum). I like it. It was in the car when I bought her, but I keep getting compliments on it. So, for me, it is a keeper. :thumbup:

But, as a black exhaust... that really would be different.

Lowflyer,

Obviously your techs don't know what they are doing.

Todd

Oh, I know they don't. (Not MY techs bye the way :clapping: ) I just drove my friend over there to look some shirts and while I was waiting him, I talked with a salesman, who I know, and showed him the cluster and mentioned gauge problem. He called service coordinator, who offered to give it a look. I was just hoping they don't mess it more...

If you could give the exact prcedure. That would help. There are 2 excellent indepents here and one of them promised to work with it when I have time to bring it in.

Yes, your cluster is coded for a C4, different fuel tank thus error in the gauge. You will need to recode the cluster and probably recalibrate the gauge.

Todd

I went to a local dealer and they SAID they tried and it did not work??? They actually had the car in the shop for about half an hour, but...

I will talk to local independent, hopefully that will work better

Anne,

Yes, that is really the only way to code a 996 cluster in a Boxster. You can just remap your DME as a 996, change the order type to C2 cab in the DME vehicle data section, read out all control units, change any additional coding in the cluster that you want, then remap the dme back to 986. As you state the only other way is to swap the cluster into another car. Remapping the DME is a much easier process if you find someone with a PST who is willing to do it for you.

Todd

Would this correct fuel gauge issue? My cluster is from C4S cab and fuel gauge is VERY optimistic.

Here are some pics taken in a local Casino's parking garage.

They seem to be bright enough for me?