porschinator

Bit the bullet and send it to a reputable body shop.

The engine compartment purge fan rarely comes on. Mine has only come on twice -- and I live in 90 plus degree California! Here are the conditions the fan comes on at.

From the service manual...

"Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F.

After-running of engine compartment fan

If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."

Is there anyway to have the fan switch on at lower temp? Change thermostat? Prolly a ECU job.

I just had a full glass out respray. Cost was £5000. it looks great now!

There are a lot of things that can factor into the cost of a good paint job. One of the first things is where you live. In California I know that a "show quality" paintjob can cost between 6 and 10 thousand dollars. That same quality paint job here in Florida costs between 4 and 6 thousand.

The other main factor is if you are changing the color or keeping your factory color. If you are keeping the factory color they don't "have" to paint your door, trunk and engine bay jams. They can sometimes just fade the paint into there and you will never know the difference. That depends on how good your jams are.

The main thing is to make sure they do all the prep work correctly. Make them take off all the doors, engine lid, hood and mirrors etc. If you want it done "perfect" have them take off all of your window seals and glass etc. Then put all new seals in. This isn’t as important if you are keeping your original color.

Keeping your original color a good job should cost about 3,000. If you are changing colors and want it perfect expect to pay at least 6,000. Make sure you see customer cars that the shop has done. Don't let them show you their personal shop cars, those always look better.

Paint is one of those things that you really do get what you pay for with.

+1 on this. It serisouly is all about the prep. Good paint will look like S**t if not applied to a properly prepped ride.

Intake from Factory Porsche Motorsports and I cannot find it anywhere. Any ideas? I know this one is for GT3 but is there one for 996 C4?

Not that I am aware of.

The GT3 is Porsche's "designated" production race car.

I like the design and was just curious. It fits directly into intake and the design scoops the air into it. As for the MAF I would just cut it off since it would just get in the way....JUST KIDDING!

Intake from Factory Porsche Motorsports and I cannot find it anywhere. Any ideas? I know this one is for GT3 but is there one for 996 C4?

I have seen the silver rings from different sources and they are ALL the same. Guy on eBay has them for $60 with shipping. Don't get me wrong..bumper Plugs has great stuff. I have ordered through them before.

Yeah and expensive!!! ****..if I get all the add-ons I want I could buy 2 996s or a 997 Turbo!!! lol

Thanks Tool Pants..I knew one of yall had an idea :) I am assuming side and rear panels come off and the center stays attached when putting the top up so you donr have to remove the entire thing. Really nice...over $3K painted!

Would be a cool Cabriolet add-on! I know, I know, prolly easy to find but I have yet to find it on web for sale. Pic attached. *Looking for the Open hard Top

it always depends on what you want. Do you want a nice cruiser..997S or do you want to go tracking and keep up with those Z06es? Decisions, decisions. it appears that this will be your daily driver, if so I would go with the 997S.

I wish I could get my ride warrantied...total pain in CA.

I could see what the guy at the dealer is trying to say. You can lose traction in the front wheels if there is enough lift but when hitting turns you will have to hit the brakes so the momentum will hit the front wheels. Personally I would get new coil overs or springs to lower the ride height. The front should be .5" lower. There are front spoilers out there but I do not think it is as necessary as the suspension change.

Just to see what the cost would be, how many people would be in for a class action suit against Porsche for 996 engine failures? Please post your car year, miles and brief description of the problem. I will try and put a list together and forward it to a law firm and see what their response is. I found this firms link seaching around. If anyone has a better firm or any input, I'm all ears.

http://www.schneiderwallace.com/PracticeAr...C&ovtac=PPC

Hi,

I've got a thread relating to engine problems see http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...t=0&start=0

The thread shows a complete history of the situation.

As a brief summary of my actions, I took a series of photos of my problem engine the main complaint about which is a defective crank cradle identified when the engine was disassembled by the independent I use. Because I use the car for business I had to buy an exchange engine as I had to limit the amount of time the car was off the road. It was still off the road from November 11th 2006 to the middle of February this year anyway.

I have complained to Porsche GB Customer Assistance under the terms of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 within English Law and after a series of e-mails and letters they advised me to get an independent report done on the defects. This was done by The RAC (Royal Automobile Club) a motoring organisation in the UK. I subsequently got a specialist metallurgy company to report on the evidence as well as recommended by The RAC and submitted this to Porsche GB. Both reports said the component in question had manufacture-related defects, was sub-standard and should not have been fitted in the engine in the first place as it was not fit for purpose.

The latest letter I received last Friday from Porsche GB still refused my claim so I have obtained the direct e-mail address of Dr. Wendelin Wiedeking, President and CEO of Porsche AG and have e-mailed him today with the details of the defects and have requested his assistance in resolving the situation.

I'll keep my thread updated with the next events.

Rgds

John

This is very disturbing!!! Porsche prides itself as a Top Notch Quality Behemoth. So far (knocking on wood) I have been lucky with mechanical issues (minus minor issues non-engine related). But when buying a Porsche you should not wonder if you are going to be lucky or not. Would be nice if a major Auto Organization did a report on the quality of Porsche. 20/20 or 60 minutes anyone???...lol.

It appears that you drove the hell out of that C4S. I am sure you did the recommended services.

I would comment, that you have applied Rejex the proper way: Apply, let dry, wipe off excess, let cure overnight, go over car again to remove any residual rejex.

I don't recommend leaving the material on overnight before removing. If the thick coat cures, it is very difficult to remove.

Ok, OE I trust your skills, I'll wipe it off tonight too. It's almost done!

I would not let it sit over night, especially if left outside. Risk a chance of something landing on the car and when wiping off can cause swirling..ouch! An hour or two should be more than enough time. I just a new bottle recently and will apply soon.

What is the best way to apply and remove wax? I know the circular motion is very bad, especially when removing. I typically rub in straight lines or long ovals and do the same when removing.

why do you say that?

Porsche boxer engines should not be modified without serious care. By adding nitro you are increasing engine pressure and temperature. Would I do it? No? Should I want more power/torque I would look at PAG's X51 or a RUF or Gemballa mod. At least those have some serious testing behind them.

thank you.... i personally dont really know a thing about porsche's but i can tell you everything you need to know about a corvette or camaro..... the owner basically just came to me and said he wanted a nitrous kit.... so i sold him one..... he should have done some research before wanting one.... but were gonna start with a 50 shot i think that should be fine in my opnion.....i told him to not go over 100.....

oh and i got the rear speaker off.....

Not to be an A$$ but I personally would not let anyone that does not know a thing about Porsche's work on an engine that can cost up to $20K to replace. The owner of that C4S got balls...lol. I like Camaros and Mustangs and they have much larger displacement. I def would tell the owner to start small and work his way up. Perhaps throw it on a Dyno attached to a diag comp and test away.

it honestly doesnt matter if its a porsche or a tractor.... every engine is an air pump..... any engine can take nitrous..... as long as it has enough fuel.... were gonna start out with a 50 shot which will be perfectly fine on the size of the engine in his car.... and i told him at the very most go to 100....

All good. Not to question your expertise. Do us a favor and tell us how it goes if possible. I am sure more then one of us is curious :)

why do you say that?

Porsche boxer engines should not be modified without serious care. By adding nitro you are increasing engine pressure and temperature. Would I do it? No? Should I want more power/torque I would look at PAG's X51 or a RUF or Gemballa mod. At least those have some serious testing behind them.

thank you.... i personally dont really know a thing about porsche's but i can tell you everything you need to know about a corvette or camaro..... the owner basically just came to me and said he wanted a nitrous kit.... so i sold him one..... he should have done some research before wanting one.... but were gonna start with a 50 shot i think that should be fine in my opnion.....i told him to not go over 100.....

oh and i got the rear speaker off.....

Not to be an A$$ but I personally would not let anyone that does not know a thing about Porsche's work on an engine that can cost up to $20K to replace. The owner of that C4S got balls...lol. I like Camaros and Mustangs and they have much larger displacement. I def would tell the owner to start small and work his way up. Perhaps throw it on a Dyno attached to a diag comp and test away.

Thanks Bro...

I like the look of LEDs. Not sure if LED tail lights exist for the 996.

Consider the RoW Sport Suspension (M030).

That kit will lower 20 mm in the front and 10 mm in the rear.

Kits can be had for around $1000 but you will need to install it and get an alignment also.

Are the M030 the same shocks n springs in the 996 Turbo? I was also thinking of going that route and was not sure they are compatible with standard Carreras, especially C4. I like the stock ride and wanted to just lower my ride on 19s. May have to go with springs only.

I wouldn't use the word BANG when referring to working on a Porsche engine. Tapping is a much better word :) Anyways I would bite the bullet and have a Dealer replace it. They see that all the time and have the tools to work around it.

Too many times I have seen guys cut slots only to see the bolt split or the head break off. Then the huge hassle of using a tap to get it out. I am surprised how tight people tighten the oil plug and don't realize the washer is there for a reason. No more then 30 ft/lb is needed.

Well Porsche states that 65-70% of ALL Porsches ever built are still on the roads. So Porsche obviously wants the Sports Car public to believe its vehicles are reliable and they are paying a premium for it. I still believe they are one of the most reliable Sports Cars autos around. The people that make the most noise are always the ones that have/had the misfortune of having a bad experience. People that have no problems never rant on forums. So in essense it seems like Porsche has big reliability issues if you read forums with individuals having issues and posting them.

I think the BIG picture would say something else. Porsche cars are no longer 'mostly' made by hand. Porsche is also the most profitable automaker. Amazing...

If you want to get Porsche's attention you have to finda way to send a big message to them. Like creating a site dedicated to Porsche defects with the infamous RMS issue, etc. Then send the link to them and see if they react. Definitely wait until the HIT numbers are high. Maybe even notify auto mags about it. Porsche seeing it in euro auto mags would get attn! lol

LOL..acting like my 15 yo daughter. I would have hung up the phone at that time and speak face to face. I truly cringe when I hear TEST DRIVE. There are too many individuals that truly do not give a cr@p about other peoples property and test drive the car like they are in a Too fast Too furious driving scene.

If they jerk you around seek legal council and know your rights. Hopefully they will be willing to put what the car WAS worth and put it towards another ride. Good luck!

Warranty Direct does not even cover 911s. It is more difficult in California to get extanded warranty...BS! Will look into Continental and original dealer. Even dealers are very wary! :cursing:

Nice toy. Wanna trade?

I'm down the street from you in Houston and it sounds like you are in the same boat that I was a few months back.

Forget about the dealer as the only 2 in town will try and sell you on the EZ Care warranty.

Look up and read about WarrantyDirect and ContinentalWarranty.

I have Continental and from what I read about both of these companies, they are nearly the same in every manner from cost-coverage of parts-coverage of labor-complaints. Complaints on both of these companies are very very small. Both have solid underwriters and Continental's is on the stock exchange with old money (Great American Ins Co).

The kicker with both is this: you must go at least 30 days and a specific amount of miles without using their claim service.

Again like you, I waited until I was about 2-3 weeks out from the OEM going flat before making the call. They just don't want you to sign up and buy a warranty and then suddenly turn over a pre-existing issue.

Mine was something like 500-ish down and 120-something per month for the next 18 months. It covers 100% of labor and will replace parts on the car with OEM parts. I think the term was 'direct replacement' or something like that.

They cover other things like rentals and so on. Call on them and ask for them to give you details. Ask for Jonah if he is still there. Nice kid and not fast talking like a saleman to get you to buy TODAY but think about this...the longer you go in time the harder it will be to get some coverage.

Is there any specific reason given by WD as to why they wouldn't touch the S?

Just went to their site input the type of Porsche I have and a pop up stated vehicle not covered by WD. I tried it with different years and States with same results for 911s. Porsche must have some kind of rep for repairs...hehehe...

Warranty Direct does not even cover 911s. It is more difficult in California to get extanded warranty...BS! Will look into Continental and original dealer. Even dealers are very wary! :cursing:

Nice toy. Wanna trade?

I'm down the street from you in Houston and it sounds like you are in the same boat that I was a few months back.

Forget about the dealer as the only 2 in town will try and sell you on the EZ Care warranty.

Look up and read about WarrantyDirect and ContinentalWarranty.

I have Continental and from what I read about both of these companies, they are nearly the same in every manner from cost-coverage of parts-coverage of labor-complaints. Complaints on both of these companies are very very small. Both have solid underwriters and Continental's is on the stock exchange with old money (Great American Ins Co).

The kicker with both is this: you must go at least 30 days and a specific amount of miles without using their claim service.

Again like you, I waited until I was about 2-3 weeks out from the OEM going flat before making the call. They just don't want you to sign up and buy a warranty and then suddenly turn over a pre-existing issue.

Mine was something like 500-ish down and 120-something per month for the next 18 months. It covers 100% of labor and will replace parts on the car with OEM parts. I think the term was 'direct replacement' or something like that.

They cover other things like rentals and so on. Call on them and ask for them to give you details. Ask for Jonah if he is still there. Nice kid and not fast talking like a saleman to get you to buy TODAY but think about this...the longer you go in time the harder it will be to get some coverage.

OK..I hear all of you. I give you this...What is the proper Porsche wave? Is it the beauty queen screw the light bulp in wave? <-- Not recommended unless female. Flat handed left and right wave? A slight gesture from the steering wheel? Or big smile and waving frantically? Hmmmm...

hah...Well I recently took off the front bumper bracket. Now I see the light...Thanks All!

Tweet I was thinking the same thing. I had one plug but could not find the other with the car. It seemed made for it since the insert was square like the hole inself and I could not find anything similar at local hardware shops.

Common guys...don't rain on dphils parade...lol. Any info is good info...