demonz

Nice write up. How was your original bearing? I did a car with 68k mi and bearing was tight and no issues.

Let's look at that: The LN engineering unit sells for about $595 (retail) and is projected to last 40-50K miles (about the typical clutch life in manual M96 cars). So you would go through three LN units in about 120-15K miles, at a cost of $1785. Most of the cars I see in my shop do less than 10K miles a year, and many do less than 2K. Using 6.5K as a very generous "average mileage" for the cars I see, and 40K for the expected time to replacement for the LN unit (at clutch replacement time), you would be replacing the LN unit (on average) every 6 years or so, or three times over around 18 years; well beyond the life expectancy of these cars. This Spanish unit costs nearly the same amount as three LN units for this one unit, and has a "warrantee" for three years............and you view this as "fair"?

I would be the first to say the design is "interesting", but the warranty, and the fact it is from a small foreign manufacturer does not impress me, nor does the rather extreme pricing……….

If you account for labor of doing the LN 3 times, then the Isario is cheaper. Unless that is, you work for free :P The Isario is expensive, but comes with a warranty. And the LN aint cheap neither. IMO they're both overpriced. Com'on it's a bearing.

FWIW, I have no affiliation with either kit.

I would like to transfer PSM functionality from a 02 986S into 00 986S. What all do I need to do swap? Brakes? DME? ABS pump? Does the PSM unit near the center console need to be coded for the DME or is the DME specifically tied to PSM unit? TIA

The 04 986S is rated at 264 hp if I'm not mistaken. How did you get up to 292 hp? Did the 987 style intake help?

Personally I'd go with Jake. Adding power does nothing to correct design problem in the M96. Great piece on the M96 in Excellence by the late great Jim Pasha a coupla three issues ago.

The 996tt does not use the m96, rather it uses a Gt1 derived motor which is also in the Gt2 and Gt3 and 997tt.

IMHO one pays now or one pays later. If money is a concern, and that is the case here, the only fiscally responsible choice is 996tt. You'll never get anywhere close to your "investment" dollars back from a replaced motor. 996tt is a proven winner.

I was wondering what would happen if at high speed the engine failed for whatever reason (like a cracked sleeve, thrown rod, IMS failure, etc...) which locked up the rear end for a second or two and caused some instability/sliding.... would the PSM and ABS still function to help the driver bring the car under control until it gets stopped?

I just realized the ignitions are probably cumulative. That would make sense then, for my case anyways...

I did the math on this and I got some strange results. Is this because the rev ranges for my 986S are not the same as those listed, or are there multiple ignitions (like an MSD box) during a single power stroke? Can someone verify please...

Foremost assumption: Given a Porsche motor that is 4 stroke and 6 cylinders, I get 3 ignitions per rev.

Now I am religious about shifting BEFORE 7200 rpm (usually 6800 rpm), yet my DME tells me that I recently had 5672 ignitions in Range 1! Crunching the numbers equates to roughly 15 sec. of over revving!!! That's impossible from my experience. If anything I might have bumped it maybe for a second or two. Also, I am the sole driver of the car. What gives? Either my math is wrong, my tach is funky, there's MSD type ignitons, the DME is fudging, or the ranges are lower for my 986S.

I've ran into the limiter before, and I could feel the power get pulled out. Though I've never tried, I would imagine this would safeguard against "normal" over-revs into ranges 2-6, assuming no mis-shifts and just plain old acceleration from the accelerator pedal.

Something doesn't add up. I do hope you get a favorable judgement saraf... at least you are enjoying the car again. :D

How can we prevent this IMS failure? How about tapping the suspect bolt and installing a larger one with some loctite? Or maybe have a toolmaker fab up some higher grade bolts like ARP?

I would love to have some peace of mind, so please chime in and tell me what's actually breaking? What's the diagnosis?

The key is preventing detonation. I read some where (Corky's Maximum Boost?) most any commercially viable automobile engine was designed with a minimum of 2X safe power rating. That is, rods, crank, case. et. al are all capable of enduring a 100% power increase, in theory. Detonation (from shoddy gas) in a NA motor will produce pressures well beyond those encountered in a +100% HP optimally tuned turbo motor, therefore motors are designed with these safety margins. Problem is, the boxster motors, and all M96 derivatives, may not be all that viable in the first place. Cracked liners, slipped sleeves, failed IMS, and cracked heads are known weak points and well documented (http://www.autofarm.co.uk/engines/water_cooled). These casting flaws will determine how far you can push your motor. Depending on who you ask these flaws may be called design flaws or production flaws. Not muddying the waters, flaws are flaws. Hopefully you have a flawless motor.

Keep us posted.

well i now they got these for the vr6(VW) motor. im trying to fab together a turbo kit for my boxter. Now iver heard that they have high comp. and have attendency to blow under boost. so i figured if my buddy can machine a head spacer for me i might be able to work somethine out besides getting a rebuild or a turbo motor swap. Let me now if any of you have heard of this being done. do you think timing would be a big issue. Ive had this thing for about 4 years now and i havent found much information on any turbo kit besides ones that are $20k. Im not woried about fitment or anything else because ill be making all my own parts. I am worried about tunning but ive heard of a few places that i might be able to get that done. if you guyes now anything on this let me know.

thanks :huh: :huh: :)

Here's a kit $6-8k depending on your set up, http://turbowerx.com/

A spacer works on many other cars, I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work for the Boxster. Considering the motor will have to be cracked anyway, the extra expense of forged pistons may be worth it. The pluses would be, timing won't be affected and they'll be a lot more tolerant of detonation and tuning mistakes. For $700, it's cheap insurance and you get the exact CR to boot.

Busting tires is a tough job and the good guys tend to move up to better jobs (like management) as soon as they can. I found a guy in Seattle whose core business is wheel repair and he manages his own business.

Care to tell who so I can throw him some business? Thanks.

Some people have all the fun! I'm already scraping some driveways and bump stops as it is 02 S, so I'm outta luck :(

-- Check control wire for A/C relay, pin 2 (terminal 85), for short circuit to ground.

1. Remove A/C relay.

2. Remove DME control module connector.

3. Connect ohmmeter to ground and pin 2

(terminal 85).

Display: infinite ohms

If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring for chafing and

pinching damage.

I'm having difficulty with step 2, locating " DME control module connector" . It a rat's nest of wires, anyone know which connector block it's in? Or do I just trace back from terminal 85 and look for chaffing?

Thanks.

Weird the fault code went away..., but now I got a new one. I'll start a new thread.

Thanks guys.

Thanks a bunch!! It does work. Feels sooo good!

I did a search, but I cannot find what this means. I have the Durametric, however I am clueless on how to go about rectifying this. I appreciate your help.