9nine6

BTW; Don't be surprised if you see one of these become available in the FOR SALE forum in a month or so. ;)

You don't need a RMS tool. ;if you're careful. just tap around the edges of the seal with a small rubber tipped hammer.....and make sure you don't push the seal too far in, another way is to get a PVC pipe the same size as the outer diameter of the seal and tap equally around the pipe with a small rubber tipped hammer while holding against the seal......again don't push the seal too far in.. replace the intermediate shaft bolts one at a time and epoxy the heads ;)

Hello guys- I have a 99 C2 and on the drivers side vale cover, where it says Vario Cam, there is a sensor. My seal around that sensor weeps oil a bit. I am looking at replacing the cover piece around that sensor, part # 996-105-223-52. As you can see the cover only has two bolts, but before I start unscrewing them, I would like some advice. MY FIRST QUESTION IS WILL OIL POUR OUT WHEN I UNSCREW THE BOLTS, AND DO I HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE WIRE FROM ITS CONNECTOR? (FOLLOWING THE WIRE, THE CONNECTION POINT IS FAR UP IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND VERY DIFFICULT IF NOT IMPOSSIBLE TO REACH.) ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS

Sensor on valve cover

Seal that needs to be replaced

Oil will not pour out and the connector will have to be disconnected. It is possible to disconnect from under the car. just follow the wire up to the connector past a fastener to the chassis. if I remember right its a narrow connector that releases from the top of the connector....Be patient <_<

should be a 10 min job once the car is on jacks

Hello I am very green to this... so here go's

I purchased a used 01' Boxster S with 42,000 on it. I took it to the local dealership who suggested I do the 2 year service oil, brakes, and once over. When I recived "The call" later that day the service manager explained to me the cost to repair the car ala carte would be $8,000, ouch! I need some serious advice, so here is a list of the damage. I need to know if i can buy aftermarket parts and where, what to look for in a non-porsche mech., and last but not least do I atempt any of this my self?

1)Front Brakes

2)Front Strut Bearings

3)Oil seperator & Oil fill tube small leaks

4)Cam cover seal small leak

5)Head Gaskets on Bank #1 slight leak

6)water pump has crossion (no leak yet) with tension roller & idlers.

Their is no spots on my gradge floor yet & no burning smells coming from the car. When i asked what is the most imporant thing to fix first the dealer said the brakes, but my brakes light is not on yet(?). I undestand he has a family to feed... but $8,000 bucks?

HELP This is my everyday driver!

Parts:

Front brakes (Pads)? less than 100.00

Front bearings 40.00 ea

Oil seperater 140.00

Small leaks... suggest run the hell out of it... should clear up

Water pump.. clean it

DIY or take it to an Independent!!!

Do yourself a favor and replace all the coil paks, as Loren said they get brittle with age and heat, sunset has them for around 40 bucks apiece

CEL, Durametric says misfire cyl 2 replaced #2 coil pack.. problem clears.. 200 miles and 1 track day later,

CEL .....Durametric now says misfire cyl 1 and 5. Whats the general rule with 50 K mi. and many track days. when 1 coil goes bad should I expect more going bad??

is it a good idea to replace the rest??

Definitely replace all of them. It's not a big job, but a fiddly one, and coil packs aren't too expensive.

Thanks thats what I decided to do.. They're only $40 bucks apiece..

CEL, Durametric says misfire cyl 2 replaced #2 coil pack.. problem clears.. 200 miles and 1 track day later,

CEL .....Durametric now says misfire cyl 1 and 5. Whats the general rule with 50 K mi. and many track days. when 1 coil goes bad should I expect more going bad??

is it a good idea to replace the rest??

Might also give a try at cleaning it with some electronics cleaner.

Thank you, gents. I have sourced the part from the states, as it's less than half price from a UK OPC. Should be with me between 4-10 working days (I'll just have to put up with the reduced performance for a few more days!).

Many thanks for the info and suggestions.

Dave :renntech:

X2 on the electronics parts cleaner

Anyone know or can direct me to What it takes to deploy the Cab pop up bars. Someone hit me standing still, :cursing: and the bars popped. can any info be derived from that???

I replaced my rotors about two months ago, and this weekend was the first time I was on the track with them After just two runs, I was experiencing terrible brake fade. I came home, threw my old rotors on, and the brakes were back to rock hard.

I ordered the rotors from a Porsche shop, and I assumed they were were genuine Porsche rotors, but looking at the receipt, it appears that they are not OEM rotors. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? I assume that as these rotors heat up, they're warping and causing the fade.

I guess my real question, since it appears that the rotors were the issue is, where is the cheapest place to get OEM rotors?

Just a thught, did you put the front right rotor on the right side and the left on left, non OEM rotors are sometimes not marked.. "Sunset Porsche/Audi" Oregon. for OEM rotors

Have a performance question. During a track event last weekend, met some Porsche tuners (working on the race class Porsches). During a conversation, I asked about handling performance. One of the techs metioned that to change the front sway bar from stock to upgraded would make a great difference in my 1999 996 cabrio, and that it was an easy thing to do.

I searched and found Eibach makes a decent looking kit, 24 mm front and 19 rear. Has anyone done this themselves, and is it worth doing? I do track the car every chance I get. Thank you

Izzy

I did a DIY install on GT3 front and rear sways on my 01 Cab, straight forward, no special tools, took about 1.5 hr. When I did the sways I had PSS9 springs/shocks. You can so the springs and shocks without the sways , but I'm not sure you want to do the sways w/o the springs. I'd do some further research.. The whole package is fantastic...

Roy S.

I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my 99 996. I have the shop manual, and I understand how to press them out, but what is unclear in the manual are the steps necessary to remove the wheel carrier. Can you shed some light on this, or point me to a good reference?

FWIW I just went through the same thing for the left front, It was a PIA for the first time. I asked the same questions, and got little help.

YOU do not have to remove wheel carrier, therefore no alignment is necessary

The SIR porsche I'm told will work if you get the porsche one WITH the attachments.

Check out the OTC Hubtamer kit, which I used, heat the wheel nut, freeze the bearing, Hub and Axel on the install. I did not heat the wheel carrier, not necessary and I felt there was too much mass to heat.

BTW try an get someone the help you that has replaced wheel bearings before, don't have to be experienced on the 996.

Key to the whole thing is to remove the top bolt on the front droplink, and push down on the wheel carrier so the axel will clear the back. It will make sense when you get into it.

\Good luck

Roy S

Anyone know of a bearing press kit where I don't have to remove the strut assembly on the car

OK I now have the OTC master bearing kit, any DIY info around for the front bearings??? :(

Quick question... I want to change the OEM pads for Pagid Yellows just for the track day and then back to OEM, can I use the Pagids without backing plate?

Define backing plate B)

Just a follow up on the EVO intake, No problems, after 6 DE days. Improved throttle response, and coupled with the PSE, great aural feedback for engine/throttle RPM/response..

I am new to the 996 world (and the Porsche world, for that matter) and would love a more aggressive sound out of my 1999 996.  I have been researching cold air intakes as a cheep alternative to installing a new exhaust (but w/o the power gains).

For those of you out there that have a cold air intake, or modified yours, does it really change the sound that much?  I am not too worried about spending the $225 (fabspeed) - I just would like a more aggressive sound if I do.  Also, anyone seen a difference using the BMC air filter along with it?

Thanks for all the help.

Adam

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have EVO Systems intake, coupled w/PSE the sound is awesome

Thanks, Loren I'll keep the BMC in mind, I'll just have to wait and see with my CEL

New to this forum, and was doing a search on the EVO system. turns out, there appears to have been problems with the 986 CEL after installation. Anyone have this mod installed, and have any EVO issues, or fixes ???. A previous thread on the 996 was not conclusive. As you might know, I find out AFTER I purchased and installed the kit :( only have about 50 mi.. so far no problem.. Thanks..