p0rsch3

How do you obtain access to the rear shock top nuts from inside the cab? I see there is a cover panel behnd rear seats, and once the panel is removed access to the top nuts are probably right under it- but I am not sure how to take off the interior cover panel without damaging something.

Any tips / pointers would be appreciated!

Very nice! Love the OZ wheels. Sweet wing from Misha.

IMO you need a "911" logo out back painted in silver, would look hot! www.bumperplugs.com

Just pulled the trigger on this 06 997 cab last week. 1-owner, all records, 14k miles, pampered car, all options except Sport Chrono and multi-function wheel. Serviced by Circle Porsche in Long Beach and just had the first service performed right before I bought it, 2-year brake fluid change and with a new set of PS2 rubber out back!

Driving impression has been very good- it really does not "feel" like a cab in regards to cornering and lack of rigidity of the chassis. 997 cabs are definitely an improvement over 996 cabs in this respect.

So anyway, mods commencing- so far have changed the rear badge to "911" custom painted in platinum silver, added HR spacers (15mm R / 7mm F), S tips, NavTV ipod interface, 35% 3M ceramic tint, K/N intake, Porsche factory clear side markers.

Coming next: SSK, Bilsteins and drop, silver hood crest, ECU flash, SmartTop, paint center console and of course the AfterHours Sport Mufflers!

-And I finally got away from the tip and into a 6speed- So much better!!!

Here's some (large) pics- enjoy-

I am digging on this Midnight Metallic color- it is stunning blue in the sunlight, midnight blue in the shade and looks black at night, the color shift is sensational!

I came across a set of brand new in-package OEM gauge faces for 997. I can get them in either sand beige to match my interior, or white.

Is it difficult to open the gauge cluster and swap the faces? Special tool needed for removing needles?

Trying to determine the "effort to reward" ratio of doing this. Wondering if anyone has done this or has info on dissassembly of the gauge cluster-

TIA!

C2S gets a different master cylinder (997.355.910.10) - that is the only other part I see when looking at the parts list.

Thanks Loren- guess that confirms it's not worthwhile.

Your front brakes do at least 70% of the stopping anyway. I haven't done it, but I don't think you'll have any problems with it. Hot rodders up their front brake size all the time.

Sure- On a hotrod no prob, you're pretty much going straight very fast and stopping hard (think 1/4 mile). Actually I did this on my 67 ragtop mustang and it worked out stellar.

On a pcar I'd be concerned about inconsistent brake fade (front S brakes ok and rears getting soft) while on the track or in the twisties for a length of time. I'd rather deal with consistency on all fours. This does not seem to be something that has been done by anyone- must be a reason.

From the Technik Book for 997 S brakes:

"Due to its increased performance, the 911 Carrera S uses a brake system with extra power boosting. The system is based on the brake system of the 911 Turbo (996).

The system includes reinforced 4-piston monobloc fixed calipers on the front and rear axle. The calipers are painted red to distinguish them from the calipers on the 911 Carrera model. The internally ventilated and cross drilled brake discs have also been enlarged, to 330 mm x 34 mm (diameter x width) on the front axle and 330 mm x 28 mm on the rear axle. The use of larger brake pads in comparison with the 911 Carrera model increases the effective total brake pad surface by approx. 24% on the front axle and 30% on the rear axle, which extends the service life of the brake pads.

Combined with improved brake cooling, the brake system of the 911 Carrera S provides excellent stability and consistent short stopping distances time after time without any noticeable brake fade."

Ah- sounds like the master cylinder or brake booster may be different as well. Either way, over-braked in front and leaving standard rears might not work so hot.

Yes, it looks like just the wheel carrier and the brakes.

The rear rotors and caliper are different between a C2 and C2S.

Thanks Loren- do you feel it would be beneficial to upgrade the fronts and leave the standard rears? I hate to see a good set of S brakes go to waste, but I don't want to do any mods which could negatively affect braking performance of the car.

I was offered a relatively new set of 06 997S front brakes and rotors. Is it feasible to change out the standard front 06 997 brakes for these?

Anything else involved besides changing the carriers? Are the rear S brakes the same as standard 997 rears or larger / thicker disks as well?

I've poked around on the usual pcar forums and didn't find much on the topic- Found a few threads started with the same question, but no answers.

TIA-

Odd question- What is needed to retrofit PASM on an 05/06 997 that did not come with it?

Just the control module and 4 shock assemblies, plus the dash button? Wondering if all 997 cars came pre-wired.

TIA-

I can't imagine it would be practical to convert a car. There are all sort of tubes and wiring running around the car to support PASM. I would think if it was that important to you, buy a car with it factory installed.

Actually, it was a question posed by a friend of mine while discussing 997's. The PASM shocks just have a single plug wire coming out of the top of each, and there is a central control module that plugs into a spot on the car. Obviously the dash button is needed as well.

Most cars come pre-wired for things like CD changer, phone, NAV, etc- so wondering about this as well. Looking at a parts manual, there are no wires or tubes listed- Just the control module (1), button (1) and shock / spring assemblies (4). Tehnical question is all.

Odd question- What is needed to retrofit PASM on an 05/06 997 that did not come with it?

Just the control module and 4 shock assemblies, plus the dash button? Wondering if all 997 cars came pre-wired.

TIA-

Porsche Book Time for a fuel pump replacement on a MY02 C2 coupe is: 140 TU (1 hour 40 minutes)

That inlcudes:

Remove and reinstall the battery

Fuel level sender unit remove and reinstall

Fuel tank emptying and refilling

Fuel level sensor calibration

Thanks Loren, interesting indeed- I wonder why the consistent high prices for overall parts / labor? That seems very skewed. Is it tough to replace the relay? That's the only other thing I can think of that might boost the cost...

thanks for the suggestions- dealer has a tizzy-fit if you try to provide your own parts... the big cost here seems to be labor, going by book rate obviously. I sure do miss having a house / full garage / full set of tools & lift available. soon!!

well, got quotes from a couple of indy's and other dealers. prices ranged from $850 to $1340. So I guess it is what it is... :(

US MSRP on the fuel pump is $308.86 - I am sure Sunset Imports can do much better than that.

Labor sounds pretty high to me. I would get a quote from an independent Porsche shop. Make sure they have a PST2 or PIWIS as they will need to calibrate the fuel gauge after replacement.

Thanks Loren- I will do that Monday morning. They know my car is kinda "stuck" there so I definitely don't want to be overcharged.

I had no idea that calibration was neccessary, very interesting- if it's not too involved would you mind explaining it just for my knowledge?

Just my luck, friday afternoon my car won't start and I'm stuck several miles from home. From the symptoms it definitely seemed like it was not getting any fuel, which could mean bad pump, relay or heaven forbid DME. 35k miles on the car.

The only place able to get my car in on short notice was the dealer, after inspecting they determined it was the fuel pump. Estimate they gave me is $945 to replace it.

Isn't that kind of rediculous? The pump is around $300 right? I can't see it taking $650 in labor to replace it. <_<

Can anyone on the shop side of the business give me input on what reasonable parts / labor should be for this?

TIA

You are probably having an issue with input leveling. The 5V pre-out your deck has is probably too much for the stock Haes amp. IMHO, you probably only have two options:

1) Use a line-leveler for your speaker outputs into the amp...or...probably a better option

2) Replace the useless factory amp.

Granted, you'll need cross-overs for the factory speakers or buy a six-channel amp with cross-overs built in. Beyond that, things get a little more complicated and therefore, expensive.

I was able to replace all four front speaker assemblies with MB Quart and Focal speakers, build a custom subwoofer enclosure that houses a JL Audio 10W3, install a decent Alpine HU and a nice used 5-channel JL Audio amp to drive the fronts/sub while my HU drives the rears within my wife's budjet of $1500.

If you want to try and "piece" the system together, most people here recommend replacing the speakers first, amp second and finally the HU. It appears as though your buddy might be trying the very opposite.

Hope this helps!

Rotor

Thanks for the info- very much appreciated!

I have a friend with a 99 C2, non bose. Installed a pioneer head unit and hooked up to factory amp / speakers. sound is horrible!

Should it be wired RCA-level or speaker-level from the pioneer to the factory amp? both ways sound bad, static, etc.

The pioneer head unit is a new one with 5v pre-out on the rca lines. Best we can get is with the RCA output hooked up to the factory amp, but haveto turn volume all the way up to get reasonable output and even then it is staticy.

amp does tun on, all wiring seems right.

Thoughts?

How is it wired when you use the RCA pre-outs? What are you doing with the "negative" side of the RCA lines?

hooking pos / neg of the RCA outputs to pos / neg input wires to the factory amp.

Hi! I've been lurking around the forums for a few months, thought it's about time for a proper intro.

After a few (too many) years I'm back in a Porsche! Just bought a 2000 996 C2 Coupe. 55,000 miles, great condition. Get to pick it up this weekend (April 5). The last Porsche was a 1987 924S, so this is a slight step-up for me :D

Welcome!! Saw you over on 6speed. This is a GREAT site. Have a fun weekend with your new ride :)

I have a friend with a 99 C2, non bose. Installed a pioneer head unit and hooked up to factory amp / speakers. sound is horrible!

Should it be wired RCA-level or speaker-level from the pioneer to the factory amp? both ways sound bad, static, etc.

The pioneer head unit is a new one with 5v pre-out on the rca lines. Best we can get is with the RCA output hooked up to the factory amp, but haveto turn volume all the way up to get reasonable output and even then it is staticy.

amp does tun on, all wiring seems right.

Thoughts?

Look for a Brown/Blue wire from the original radio connector and remove the pin and tape it (or cut and tape the wire).

Loren- I think that was it. Pulled the radio and I had left the blue/brown wire attached to the radio chassis bracket connector. There is a factory spade connector on the radio mount bracket that the wire plugs in to, and a piece of metal makes conact with the body of the aftermarket radio. The wire comes out of the bundle of wires for the intermittent wipers.

I unplugged the wire and taped it up, I will know in a couple of days if this resolved the issue.

The litronics on a 2002 are self leveling, and work great on my car, but low beam seems a little too low. Can you adjust up the Litroncs same as the regular headlights?

Yes - please read the posts in this thread from March 1st, and go buy yourself a very long 5mm allen wrench (at least 6 inches long). - it's very easy to do.

Thank you- You are a true walking encyclopedia of pcar knowledge :)

Use the wire colors from the MY02 diagram below

Thanks Loren, always appreciate your expertise- how do I determine which one is pin 2 and which one is pin 5?

Yes, it is the same harness for a MY02 (and newer) coupe - so the jumpering the pins should be the same too.

Loren- I am installing a GT3 MKII wing on my '02 C2 Coupe, do I need the -51 harness or can I just jump pin 2 to pin 5 in the exisiting harness and be done with it? Are the pins marked or if now which is the count direction?

Loren- I am installing a GT3 MKII wing on my '02 C2 Coupe, do I need the -51 harness or can I just jump pin 2 to pin 5 in the exisiting harness and be done with it? Are the pins marked or if now which is the count direction?

When a fixed factory (Porsche) spoiler is added there is a change to the wiring harness to disable that warning. You need to purchase and install (5 min max) the following new harness: 996 612 070 51 Wiring Harness.

Technical Details:

Check whether there is a jumper connecting pin 2 (which is already jumped from pin 1) to pin 5 on plug X23 of the new wiring harness (connection to the vehicle). If this is the case, the spoiler extended signal will be constantly present at the control module and the warning light of the retractable rear spoiler will not light. (at speeds above 74mph).

Connect the plug connection of the new wiring harness to the vehicle. Route the wiring harness along the hood shock to the fan housing and attach it on the rear lid with two (2) fastening clips. Connect the fan and interior lamp plugs. Done.