p0rsch3

hey porsche3...how long have you used your K&N Air Filter? I've heard so much crp about them, but i've been fine since i've installed it over 6000 miles. But I always get nervous with rain storms, because of the warning on the KN box (not to be used during inclement weather, if so, return to stock during these conditions). Being my 1999 996 is a daily driver that isnt' possible. LMK what you think. Thanks

bmohr

I've used it now for 1yr+ and about 8k miles. No issues at all, love it as much now as the day I installed it.

I can see the point of not using in inclement weather since the filter is open directly below the engine lid vents, so there is potential for water to enter... but it would probably have to be a lot of water since the oiled filter should displace things like drips.

what would be ideal is to design a top shield for the filter, maybe out of CF. i'm going to talk to my buddy who makes custom-fabricated race car parts (does a lot of CF work, hand-made my 996 console lid out of CF and it looks SICK!) - Let you know if that turns out. I think with a small cover it would resolve any potential inclement weather issues.

Sure, the "sock" will repell light water. But wouldn't a CF cover look nicer and be more effective? :)

Doesn't K&N supply a water repelling cover that goes over the filter now? I don't know what they call it, I always called it the water boot, I have one on my RX8. I've seen them on 996s before.

Porsche3

Sounds like a good trade lol!

Are you in the So Cal area? I'm in Pasadena. Let me know.

Thanks again for all the informatiion.

Phillipj

Yeah I'm in Beverly Hills just south of you. My friend who does the CF work is down in Long Beach / Pedro area.

Were also going to be working on designing a flow-through race exhaust for the N/A 996 that offers a happy medium between muffler bypass pipes and regular mufflers.

If you're interested let me know, we may need a few test cars for dyno runs.

Porsche3

Thanks for all the info. How much did you pay to piant your console at the body shop?

Thanks again,

Phillipj

I paid $0 - My friend who owns the shop owed me a favor (I fixed his porn-ridden virus-infected shop computer.. lol).

Eric at bumperplugs has one of the lowest rates I've seen. It is not easy laying down quality paint over the OEM rubberized finish, and he guarantees his work.

Porsche3,

I just read the bottom of your post. I will contact him.

Thank you!

No problem- Brian is a really cool guy.

I had the console painted black by a local body shop, yep mine used to be "ugly gray" too .. lol.

you can get the best work on a black painted console from Eric at www.bumperplugs.com - Eric has very good prices on painting, and is a forum sponsor over at www.6speedonline.com

Porsche3

Can you post a picture of the CF Console lid that your friend made fo you? I would live to see it!

Thanks

Phillipj

Here you go:

btw if you want one made, go to http://www.afterhourscompositeworks.com, call number on bottom of page and ask for Brian Kono (owner). Tell him Kurt sent you.

If you send him your lid and back piece he can do the same type of work, probably around $500. Guy is a true artist, I can't believe he does this by hand.

hey porsche3...how long have you used your K&N Air Filter? I've heard so much crp about them, but i've been fine since i've installed it over 6000 miles. But I always get nervous with rain storms, because of the warning on the KN box (not to be used during inclement weather, if so, return to stock during these conditions). Being my 1999 996 is a daily driver that isnt' possible. LMK what you think. Thanks

bmohr

I've used it now for 1yr+ and about 8k miles. No issues at all, love it as much now as the day I installed it.

I can see the point of not using in inclement weather since the filter is open directly below the engine lid vents, so there is potential for water to enter... but it would probably have to be a lot of water since the oiled filter should displace things like drips.

what would be ideal is to design a top shield for the filter, maybe out of CF. i'm going to talk to my buddy who makes custom-fabricated race car parts (does a lot of CF work, hand-made my 996 console lid out of CF and it looks SICK!) - Let you know if that turns out. I think with a small cover it would resolve any potential inclement weather issues.

update- I noticed that the noise only occurs when the car is warmed up. If I floor it while not completely up to temp, there is no noise. Any thoughts?

The radio/nav wire is in the connector plug (unless you cut it off).

do you happen to know the wire color? I did not cut off my plugs, I simply tapped into the wires with scotch-locks. Seemed more sane to do it that way. :)

Durametric usually fixes errors pretty quick when folks tell them about the error.

NAV/Radio wire (when using after market) -- Taped up and tucked away.

Thanks again Loren. It could be the wire is somehow touching something and setting off the alarm, will have a look at it and post my findings.

The engineer at Durametric (his name is "Duram" if you can believe it.. heh) is a really nice guy, i'm going to let him know about the incorrect code.

Fault code 54 Radio receiver defective

Do you have an after market radio?

Fault code 33 Passenger compartment: monitoring sensor faulty

Bad passenger compartment sensor?

Fault code 42 Wrong key or wrong transponder pill

Sometime a bad transmitter battery will give this code - especially if you reset it by reversing the battery.

Fault code 60 Central locking limit position 'Locked' not reached

Most often caused by not having the door shut all the way and hitting the lock button.

Personally I would erase these codes and see if they come back.

Thanks Loren-

I cannot erase alarm faults with duramteric, but they do show count increments.

I replaced the compartment sensor

42 and 60 have been there for a long time so i'm confident that is not it.

so 54 is the radio and not tilt sensor eh? so much for Durametric accuracy.

I do have an aftermarket NAV / DVD unit (Kenwood) - Odd that I have had it installed for some time before the false alarms started.

Should the wire for the radio alarm be grounded to body, attached to the kenwood chassis or simply taped up and tucked away? I will pull out the radio and have a look.

I just remembered Tool Pants posted a photo: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=79568

Looks like I got it the wrong way round - the tilt sensor (in the whitish box) is underneath the siren.

Yes it is odd. I had the usual tilt sensor full of water, which was causing a wierd problem (the siren was chirping when I locked or unlocked the car) but it didn't show up with any fault at all with the PST2.

hmm- I wonder why I would be logging a tilt sensor error if I don't have one?

US spec cars don't normally have the tilt sensor and alarm siren fitted. Only UK and Belgium get them as standard. That's not to say that one couldn't be fitted afterwards.

The sensor and siren are located to the right hand side of the battery (as you look at it). The tilt sensor was originally mounted on top of the siren. They often fill up with water, and the replacement for the original is rewired and fitted under the left hand seat near the alarm control module.

I looked by the battery and there is only the alarm siren. no other wires present, empty plugs, sensors, etc. odd???

So my alarm has been randomly going off when locked and sitting idle. Happens mostly when the tempurature changes throughout the day.

I bought a Durametric scanner to try and track down the offending sensor, and initally thought it was the interior sensor. I replaced it, and it is still falsing.

Now when I look at the durametric I saw that error code 54 for the tilt sensor had incremented by one count, and noted with "not in idle position"

Does my '02 US car have a tilt sensor and where is it located?

where is the tilt sensor located on an 02 996 coupe? I think mine is causing same problem.

Here ya go the manuals are available for downloading

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Awesome- you da man! Thanks

The engine mounts are hydraulic dampened so look for any leakage. The rubber can develop cracks,sags or tear away from the outer metal casting. Porsche often gives a minimum height for mounts, I'll look through the manual and post them if I find the info.

awesome- thank you for your input. how is the height measured for the mount?

I'm in process of tracking down an odd thump when shifting from 1st to 2nd under hard accell. Feels like an engine mount or something along those lines, so putting it up on my buddy's lift this next weekend.

(this issue is different than the buzzing vibration noise in my other thread- trying to find that too!)

I am not familiar with the mounts on a 996 engine and tiptronic trans- how does one check to see if the mounts are bad? Is changing them pretty straight-forward? I've done this on other cars, just not a pcar.

Any insight is appreciated. I searched the site but did not find any decent info.

i have an almost identical problem. I thought it was mufflers so changed them but it's still there. it does indeed only make the vibrating rattle when nder hard accell taking off in 1st.

if I punch it in any other gear or lightly rev in neutral, no noise.

did you find out if it was the cats? how do you check if your cats are bad?

ditto - mine as well. it's annoying but I've learned to come to a complete stop before manually dropping to 1st.

A bad mount puts the whole power train out of whack and could be the cause of the vibration but from your description it sounds exhaust related. I was thinking along the lines of the exhaust system being too close to a suspension component or heat shield because of a poor mount.

Yep, that was my first suspicion as well- but after having changed the mufflers and disassembling the bumper / heat shields for a thorough inspection it did not cure the problem.

The thing that makes it so darn perplexing is it only does this under full throttle in 1st. So maybe.. if the mounts are not solid the drivetrain is flexing from torque and causing something to touch / vibrate?

Is it tough to replace engine and tranny mounts on a (tiptronic) pcar? Have done this on other cars but not on a Porsche.

Have you checked the engine/transaxle mounts?

Not yet, but I think I may need to replace one of them- I have a definite 'thump' when hitting the 1-2 shift hard, which feels / sounds mount-related.

could the vibrating sound be related?

Could be belt or a pulley. Quickest way to test is to remove the belt and try it. If there is no noise, then change the belt. If noise comes back with new belt, it may be the tensioner pulley. Costs about $60.

Obviously, do not take a long leisurely drive without the belt on as you will have no water pump or power steering function. Test it on a cold engine.

worth considering, but sounds kind of dangerous to test like this- is there a DIY here on removing belt and location of tensioner pulley?

Have you checked the muffler heat shields?

Yep, I had the entire back bumper and shields off yesterday when we did the muffler swap. Nothing loose, broken or (from what I could see) rubbing. I also did some slight shield tweaking just to be sure, because this was my initial thought as well.

The odd thing is, if it were simply a resonant vibration it should also do it when revving in neutral or hard accell in other gears correct? It only makes the sound when accellerating hard from a stop or slow roll with wide open throttle in 1st. If I do the same in 2nd gear from stop or slow roll, no noise.

You need a long 5mm Allen key to adjust, a 5mm hexagon key to remove the headlight ( to replace a burn out bulb )

Thank you, off to the hardware store....

That is the metric airflow discombobulator. If you remove or clean it you will lose 5whp.

I fixed mine by removing entire intake and replacing with a KN intake. One of my favorite mods.