steve_wilwerding

Optima red top. I have one in my Boxster and it works great. No battery acid sloshing around if you happen to track the car.

Try http://www.gahh.com. Many folks over on PPBB have bought their German canvas tops ($562) and they say it looks exactly the same as a factory soft top.

I'm confused - do 2.5s have both Bosch and Beru plugs? I'll be doing my spark plugs at 30K, and I'm wondering what brand I should use.

I just wanted to let everyone know that Paragon Products is offering the metal rod end for 20% off. No affiliation, but I've heard it's a worthwhile upgrade - $50 now or $2000 later when the plastic breaks and you don't stop the top operation quick enough.

The TC switch works like all the other dash switches. You push the "fat" end to turn TC off and the switch goes back to neutral. You push the "skinny" end and the TC switches back on. You can push the fat or the skinny end mulitple times and it won't do anything (in other words, the fat end is not an ON/OFF switch - you push one side to turn it OFF and the other side to turn it ON).

There are no longer "sided" cables - the new style cable works on both sides.

The new part number is 986 561 717 03

I just ordered the top cables from my dealer, and it turns out that there are no longer "sided" cables - the new cable works for both sides.

The new part number is 986 561 717 03

This is a pretty common issue. My Boxster makes a bad noise for about one second after I start it. It seems to happen more often when the car has been sitting a few days.

I have been assured that it's nothing to worry about and is perfectly normal.

Thanks Mark.

Yeah, my top works just fine. I just have this "preventative maintenance" streak, so I'd like to change out the cables before I do have problems. I know that the previous owner of the car had problems with the top, so I'd like to fix it before anything gets ruined.

Thanks again. You answered all of the concerns that I had.

Anybody?

Can you at least answer whether I need to retime the two cables with each other?

Thanks.

My updated cables are on the way, and I plan on installing them this weekend. I've read the other post, but there are a few things I need help with.

Here are the steps I've got so far:

1. Put the top in the service position

2. Unhook the cables from the back motor

3. Remove the front arms, the black plastic piece, and transmissions

4. Pull the cable out from underneath the foam

This is where I get stuck. Once the transmissions are out of the car, is it difficult to remove the old cables from the transmissions? Or is it just a clip?

Also, when everything is reinstalled, is there any adjustment needed between the two sides? If so, how do you adjust the cables?

Are there any other hidden surprises?

Thanks.

Thanks Tool Pants (if that's your real name ;) )

I love this Board!

Also, is there anything special I have to do to get to the drain and fill plugs? Or do I just jack up the car and they're right there?

Thanks.

I've heard that the B&M tends to accentuate the "notchiness" of the transmission, and some of that notchiness can be fixed by changing the tranny fluid to Redline. Even if I don't do it for the B&M, I'll have to change the tranny fluid eventually, so I'd like to know how it's done.

Tool Pants, that socket on the right that you call a triple square - is that just a Torx security socket? If not, where would I go about getting one of those? Does Craftsman make one?

I'm planning to install a B&M shifter in a few weeks, and most people recommend changing the transmission fluid with the Redline cocktail. How difficult is it to change the tranny fluid? Any special tools that I will need?

Thanks.

I just installed my hardtop, and the post that goes into the receptacle right above the driver's head is squeaking terribly. What can be done about this? The hardtop itself also makes some noises, especially on bumpy roads, but I assume this is just how the hardtops are. I have to cure the squeak, however - it's driving me nuts!

Thanks for the help.